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illinilefttackle

C-125 REAR LIFT PARTS

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illinilefttackle

1056-Thanks! Great drawings-I understand now-only one question I need to ask-upfront under the hood stand-which arm do I hook to? the same one that my Deck hooks to? It looks like the cable has to travel UP quite a bit to reach it-is that OK?-Thanks again-AL

Kinda hard to see everything with the Hydro Valve in the way.

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TT

The very bottom hole on part # 19 in this drawing (marked "Rear Hitch / Tiller Lift Cable"):

cb9bc073.jpg

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illinilefttackle

Thanks again 1056!-I'll have to get underneath the tractor to see that one-the Hydro Valve hides it. Come to think of it-my 11 yr old grandson was under there when I pushed the cable thru and he said " that's neat-it's coming right out by a thing with a hole in it!" Now I know what he saw. :thumbs:

Can I grease the cable before I put it in the tube for the final time? Or will it all melt out? How did you find that drawing with all the writing on it? When I go to the MSV it only shows the drawing. Thanks again. I waited to go to TSC until tomorrow-so I could see what I had to have today! It's up with the chickens tomorrow morn-TSC is about 30 mi round trp. Thanks again-guys like you are why I like this site-and I can get answers quick-AL :thumbs:

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TT

That's actually the "Lift Linkage" plate for a 1983 GT-1848 (D1-184801 ) at the Toro MPV.

It's all the same parts as your tractor. :thumbs:

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Kelly

I personaly would not grease the cable, as it will collect dirt, you might try a dry lube, graphite most hardware stores will have it maybe TSC.

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glenn27

I made my last 2 cables from TSC with stainless cable, clamps, the tear droped shaped things to put on the cable at the bends, and a mini clevis 1/4" all for less than $20 each.

Tear dropped thingie called a "Cable Thimble"--in crane lingo. I just happened to remember from years in the towing/recovery business....... :thumbs:

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glenn27

You can cut the ends off the cross shaft, Al. I don't know how you can put new snap ring grooves in it, but you could always double hose clamp it on the inside of the bushings so it wouldn't slide sideways. :D

You could also cross drill it and install some 3/16" roll pins through it.

I drew a picture of the clevis to cable hook-up because I don't have any real ones:

clevisthimble.jpg

Terry--That drwing of yours is good and correct--on the cable--the way you positioned the cable clamps is correct!! On a small aplication such as this--it won't really matter--but on larger/heavy lifting rigging it definately would.

Old saying was "Never saddle a dead horse"--meaning the little saddle part w/ the nuts goes on the live end of the cable--not the stub!

Thanks for making me think again early on a Saturday morning! :thumbs::thumbs:

{Didn't mean to horn in on this thread w/ trevia--but it's kinda neat stuff--even if mostly useless}............

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TT

It's all in the previous posts, Glenn. (I didn't mention the "never saddle a dead horse" reference, but I know it well. :thumbs:)

I have a cumulative 10 years or more in the cable slinging/lifting/pulling atmosphere and a little experience with bridge cranes and mobile cranes. I also know that leather palm gloves are a MUST when working with any wire rope. :D :thumbs:

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illinilefttackle

:thumbs: I have serious clearance problems back at the gas tank and the lift arms. I saw the cut outs in the tank for clearance so when I cut the large rod I cut it so it mounted all the way to the left to fit into these slots. But when I hang the hitch on the short rod it bumps the gas tank quite a bit. The clevis hits it too. It looks like I may need a different way to attach the chain to the arm-something flatter or on the inside between the arms.

Also I don't think there will be enough room for the long arm to be pulled back far enough to lift plow off the ground-because of the length of the combined "thimble" and clevis. What kind of ends do the regular WH cables have?

I need to re-think this-The saddle type gas tank is a real clearance problem!-AL :thumbs:

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TT

Here's the IPL for the 85515 Clevis Hitch:

(the one that's made for your tractor)

61R10001.gif

Here's the part numbers:

8 108144

CABLE

9 104524

TRUNNION-CLUTCH ROD

22 108143

CLEVIS-LONG

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illinilefttackle

Looks like it pulls the hitch from the same arm as the cable does. Should I cut off the short bar for clearance and modify the long one to accept the chain from the hitch? Thanks -AL

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TT

Anything you can do to make it work, Al. :thumbs:

No one will see what lurks under the fender when you're done. :thumbs:

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illinilefttackle

Well it says its 38 degrees out but feet my differ. I been working on a cold concrete floor for hours-BUT- I did get something done.

I cut the second -short-arm off the "thingy" (sorry Stigian) I got from Evilbay-I then drilled a hole in it about 1/3 way up the longer rod for a place to attach the chain from the hitch. I brazed in a 3/8 bolt and added a large washer and a self locking nut.

I then decided I wasn't going to pay $12 bucks for a trunion to attach the cable to the long arm-SO- I made one out of the head of a bolt and a piece of bushing from a Ford alternator-brazed it together, I left enough sticking out the other side to drill and key it. I then put the cable thru it and put a cable clamp on it. I hope this will hold? It all works great,clears everything-the Gas tank even fits on!

Now all I have to do is figure out the front end under the Hoodstand. But I'm too cold and too old, and my knees left their best days on the Gridiron-so I'm in the house typing trying to get warm. I'm trying too get my camera working but no luck yet- this stuff would make good pictures!

I'll shout back when I get the rest done-and get enough guts to try it out-see if my brazing is as good as it used to be!-Thanks-AL :thumbs:

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illinilefttackle

Update-I finished the attachment up front under the hood stand-Your right-there is not much travel in this bellcrank arm! I'm just having a little problem getting the cable tight, holding it, and tightening the clamps at the same time. Not enough hands (only Two)- It's still too cold for a old guy to be laying on the concrete cussing at his Wheel Horse for too long. Try again tomorrow-maybe a little warmer.

Tickster-you said you got cable Ferrules at TSC-what did they look like?

Thanks-AL :thumbs:

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Rollerman

Hmm Al....looks like I'll be needing to make a house call again?

May be out that way next week....I can see if I can steer you in the right direction & drop off that engine if you want it?

The cable ferrules are just a little aluminium peice you slide opn the cable & crimp it

Some have two holes so you cane make a loop with the cable...others are just crimbed on a single cable & used to prevent a clamp or clevis from comeing off.

Just like the factory setup. :thumbs:

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illinilefttackle

Stephan- A-OK on the engine- I'm going to try to enlist the help of my Oldest grandson ,that works at Home Depot, tomorrow-to see if we can get it tight.

At the back,where the cable passes thru my home made trunion on the arm, I just used two cable clamps to keep the cable from pulling thru, it works ok,but I don't like the way it looks-to cumbersome-It would look better with a cable Ferrule on the end with a washer between the ferrule and the trunion.

Email me if and when you plan to come-I work a little job in the afternoon to pay for helping the grandkids!-Thanks -AL :thumbs:

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illinilefttackle

Well even though the floor was cold-I finished the lift today-The Easter Bunny helped me on his pass thru- it was hard to get him to sit still (kept saying something like "I'm late, I'm late")- but we got the cable tight-and tried it out-it lifts the plow up off the floor with about 5 inches to spare-and when it comes down ,the cable has a little slack so I think it will allow the plow to dig in. Man! does it feel good when you get a project done and it works!

I had to promise my helper some of the Fresh Lettuce & Carrotts I'm going to grow in the garden-good price for good help.

Thanks-AL :thumbs:

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T-Mo

Congratulations, Al. Good job. Now :thumbs:

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