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Wheel Horse Paint Recommendations

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I use RAL 4013 (Oyster white).

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The space for silver wheels in the OP is conspicuously blank. Maybe no one is restoring the newer tractors yet. I picked up some wheels for tri ribs for my 314-H and they needed some work. I was more concerned with dealing with rust than getting a perfect match but since the color I chose came pretty darn close I thought I'd share. I chose Rustoleum metallic Matte Nickel.

 

DSC_8205-PP.JPG

 

Here is a side by side comparison with an OE wheel from my '97 314-H. I have no idea if there is much fading, but these are usually covered by hub caps. The new paint seems to be a slightly lighter shade, but not by much. The lustre is a little less shiny than the factory paint. I see that Rustoleum has this color in a satin finish and the next time I want to do some wheels, I'll probably go with that.

 

DSC_8202-PP.JPG

 

Edit: Forgot to identify the left wheel as the OE color and the right is the Rustoleum.

 

 

Found this paint at my local Menards ..  and as Hank B stated  looks just exactly as picture shows. I've only done the front two as I changed out the rims from 6 - 8's but they match the backs real good at the minute , I'll do the rears as I can get the temps up a bit   16 degrees is just too cold.

 

I will also do the remaining 12 wheels, it really dressed up  that  '86 310!!!  so thanks again HankB

 

Rick

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Since I am the recent owner of a 1996 416-H which requires some welding on the hood stand components, I will need to repaint those areas. It's difficult to tell what the gloss factor was on the original black paint. I know mine is weathered, but was it gloss, semi-gloss, or satin black when it left the dealer?

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I believe for the work horse model they used semi-gloss at least thats what im using im sure others will chime in.

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Not sure of the 416-H Bob but If I remember correctly my old Workhorse 1848 used a semi gloss on the frame andTrans/axle and satin on the blacked out portion of the hood, hood stand and 18hp briggs.

Sent from my tractor seat.

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Having not gotten the response that I was hoping for with my question about the gloss factor of the black paint on a 416-H, I took a couple of the internal support plates from inside the hood stand, along with the neutral position guide plate, cleaned them up and did a paint test. Of course most will say that black is black, but like red, there are many variations. However, I am not looking for the correct black, just the correct gloss factor. I did a test spray and my eye tells me that the paint was originally semi-gloss.

 

Since this is not a complete restoration, but just a refresh and repair, I have a full can of Dupli-Color Ford semi-gloss black engine enamel. It's a good match, and that will be my choice to touch the hood stand where I had to have it welded.

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Is there any kind of clear that can be put on over enamels?

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Is there any kind of clear that can be put on over enamels?

 

​If you are doing a fresh paint job you should be able to find a compatible clear from the same family of finish. If you are thinking of clearing over an older paint job to freshen up the finish you would want to start out with a inconspicuous part. Clean it up with Xylene paint thinner and  try some good quality automotive  clear like Duplcolor touch up. If you don't have a bad reaction with the old paint then go hog wild!

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I might be painting a 48" deck - it will go under a 97 520-H.  Would one can of spray bomb Toro Red cover the job? Or would I need two?

Should I use a coat of a primer?

Thanks!

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2 if you're only doing the topside.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would relate an interesting story.

Back in 2009/2010, when I was restoring/building my B-100. I was a true novice with painting, so I experimented with a lot of combinations. I had several test panels that I sprayed with different colors and types of paint. One test panel in particular was painted with a modified alkyd (oil) paint, Valspar Restoration Series to be specific. It had dried in the sun for about a week. Then I put it away when the decision was made to scrap alkyds and go with acrylic urethane. Later, probably within a month, I pulled it out, scuffed the paint and shot a couple coats of epoxy primer on it. That panel was put up on a shelf and left until this past weekend. I happened to pull it down to see if I had marked it with what brand of epoxy I had used. I also wanted to see how well the epoxy would sand after 5 years. When I went to sand it, I found to my surprise that the Valspar paint under the primer was still not cured, and after cutting through the epoxy, I could scrape the sticky red paint off with a putty knife.

test-panel.thumb.jpg.68734f439374fe599a5

Background:
Panel was originally sand blasted.
Primed with Valspar Restoration Series gray primer.
Painted with two coats of Valspar Restoration Series IH Red (aerosol spray).
Allowed to dry for about 30 days.
Scuffed and sprayed with Custom Shop DTM epoxy primer (gray).

Interestingly, the epoxy cured in less than 5 hours and sanded well at that time, and after 5 years it still sanded without effort. However, the
result here is that the epoxy dried so fast, and is so solvent-proof, that the Valspar which wasn't fully cured to start with, remained uncured until this day.

CONCLUSION -- Don't spray epoxy primer over any oil based paint that is not FULLY cured.

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Wheel horse dealer sell two variants of red spray can paint at their dealerships on the shelf.
 

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Bob makes a very good point, unless you use a hardener the low VOC paints you get today need to breath for a couple of months. I sprayed a couple of chairs and a week or so later put some materials in a plastic bag in one of them, three days later the bag was stuck to the chair so well I could pick up the chair lifting the bag.  :twocents-02cents:

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The Toro wheel horse candy apple red is not the same shade as on a 416-8. The other red available should be a better match.

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I was at tractor supply today and saw the majik brand paint for farm implements. They had a color for every tractor brand I ever heard of. At the recommendation of you guys on red square I bought some IH red which looks to match my WH 416 very well. I bead blasted my running boards at work and painted them today. They look brand new again. I am thinking of masking around the flat foot area and using rustoleum auto truck bed black anti slip coating. The Majik paint is available in spray cans, quarts and gallons. They also offer reducer and hardener for spray gun application.

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I hate to say this, but Majik paint is the worst stuff I ever bought. Just do a search here and see what others say about it as well.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

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I painted my running boards with the Tractor supply brand Majik brand farm implement paint IH red color and it is very poor quality paint. When it was being applied it was red but when it dried and I looked at the next day it had very bad color die back. I looked like paint that had been in the desert for 20 years and pink in color.
I returned the partial can and the other unused paint can.
The people at Tractor supply were nice about the return but I will not recommend that paint to anyone.
Also the smell of the curing paint gave me a head ache the next day when I handled it.  The paint was still not cured and smudged to the touch.I am glad I wore a paint respirator when I sprayed it.
I plan on stripping off the paint and starting over with rustoleum.


  

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I done a complete restore on my 857 6 year ago and had my buddy a professional body man painted it got it all done and took it to my local wheel horse dealer and he was very amazed how it turned out. he said it looked better than it would have right out of the factory. he told me the rim color was off . I painted them centari  winter white they match the new decals but he said it needed to be something like an almond white. any info on the correct color paint for rims?

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I done a complete restore on my 857 6 year ago and had my buddy a professional body man painted it got it all done and took it to my local wheel horse dealer and he was very amazed how it turned out. he said it looked better than it would have right out of the factory. he told me the rim color was off . I painted them centari  winter white they match the new decals but he said it needed to be something like an almond white. any info on the correct color paint for rims?

Rustoleum Almond

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I have used Rustoleum "Antique White" and it matches up well too. ( probably Almond by another name )    :ychain:            :text-lol:

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ok thanks here is what I got like I said done this restore 6 year ago or so been mowing with it ever since just took mower off and will not mow with it again. paint just s tad wore in spotsmine_063.thumb.JPG.f8bbfb28e26a93614d974mine_064.thumb.JPG.9e5def982c266b148d2da 

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Rustoleum worked okay but it took forever to dry. Next time I will use a HVLP paint gun to spray urethane paint with hardener and clear coat for the hood.

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my 2 cents... im restoring a GT 14. took it apart completely and had sandblasted when taking apart i found under the motor on frame original paint.. took to bodyshop and had it matched.. Chrysler PR4 is a dead nuts match for the older horses. Toro red is a little redder then the old ones.. had my done with siken single stage. (if i selled right) awesome shine. just my 2 cents

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