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Wheel Horse Paint Recommendations

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Interesting the reports we are getting on Majic. Most have found it less than desirable. What did you use, a sprayer or rattle cans?

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If you look at the very first post in this thread, you will see a list of paints and colors that people use for your model year 312. As I said to you in one of your prior posts, there is no one color that is Wheel Horse Red. Your tractor will look fine in whatever color red you decide to choose.

Edited by rmaynard
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Sunrise Red by Rustoleum is a very very close match for my 310-8,circa 86 or so...

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Vansickle tractor paint works very well i don't know if im spelling it right but i bought at a farm store

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Sunrise Red by Rustoleum is a very very close match for my 310-8,circa 86 or so...

I've been using Rustoleum Regal Red, lots, looks great. Of course, most reds work.

I am however painting all parts of the Horse.

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I used New Holland red its a bit brighter but it looks good

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I am having paint problems I am trying to paint some of the shields on the side of my motor to regal red. I ground down all the paint to bare metal. cleaned off the metal and did two lights coats via rattle can. I come back about 10 minutes later and all the spray paint wrinkled up on the metal, what causes this? Now I will have to re grind it to the bare metal and start over. I am frustrated! :banghead: :banghead:
 

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what causes this?

 

Usually not letting the first coat 'cure' before applying the second.

 

If you can get the two coats on fast enough that the first coat doesn't 'skim over' before applying the second, you will be OK.

 

Best practice with rattle cans is to do 1 coat, let dry THOROUGHLY before applying the second.

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I am having paint problems I am trying to paint some of the shields on the side of my motor to regal red. I ground down all the paint to bare metal. cleaned off the metal and did two lights coats via rattle can. I come back about 10 minutes later and all the spray paint wrinkled up on the metal, what causes this? Now I will have to re grind it to the bare metal and start over. I am frustrated! :banghead: :banghead:

 

I had that happen with a set of wheels a couple of weeks ago, not sure what caused it. My dad is a professional painter and he was not sure what would of done it either, the wheels had a good coat of primer and looked fabulous after the first coat, second coat made a weird finish. I let them dry overnight before the second coat, maybe waited too long. Luckily it was just a worker so I left them the way they were. Hopefully someone here can give us the trick. LOL

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Ten minutes should have been a good time laps between coats for any rattle cans I have used. Usually multiple coats within the first hour is recommended but then not sooner than 48 hours after the first hour or a reaction due to curing action will cause wrinkles or lifting. But could also have been a number of other reactions. Let us know if you figure it out.

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I found also, when using rattle cans after I'm done sanding and it's ready for paint,  I take a clean towel with some brake cleaner over the part, this seems to get all/any  oily residue that causes fish eyes .

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i am hopefully going to have my 520-8 restored soon. does anybody know the match for ppg paint . i am a lousy painter but my brother is going to do the spraying with his gun. a lot of opinions for the old wheel horse red but didn't see any for the newer toro red. thanks

 

 

eric j 

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Check the very first post in this thread, or look at this one.

 

After many years, I'm sure your 520 has faded, and even if there was a code for direct match when it was new, it would not look like a match today. Pick a color that you like and go for it. 

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Just sprayed mine yesterday, I had some pieces under the fenders that didn't get sun with original paint, took one  to the paint shop,  went a tad darker on the paint strips at the shop ...sprayed straight acrylic enamel with an epoxy anti corrosion primer ....I'm not a paint guy either, when I was hashing this out talking to folks, was told the acrylic enamel was old school....... figured old school paint  on an old school tractor was fitting  .

 

Sprayed nice looks good .  if your thinking of rattle cans,  the Rustoleum sunrise red ( Lowe's carries it ) was as close as coconuts to the original and the PPG , I used some rattle cans on the underneath but using the good stuff ( my PPG bill was 130 bucks ) on the sheet metal and the exposed stuff is a lot more durable ....it will take every drop of a quart for a C-series size tractor . ( I did 3 coats ) .

 

If you like this color/paint  PM me I have the PPG code .

 

 

 

349ba4z.jpg

 

 

2lnwzux.jpg

Edited by Golds-Red
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found a spot underneath the tractor that was free of dirt and oil, that the paint was original. took that into the local hardware to get it matched. VIOLA, their computer came up with this combo:

Valspar antirust int/ext armor

   clear #21829

   f  15 shots 1 halfshot

  kx  4 shots  1 halfshot

  m  1 oz 22 shots 1 halfshot

  s   1 oz 5 shots

 

this came the closest for a match used on my wheel horse 8/4 speed. i put a decal that was under the hood area that was not faded next to it, and it was almost perfect. it is just a smidgen off. but that was under a 300 watt work light. 

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I should use high temp paint for my engine on my 753 correct? If so where can I get that? I'll be using a gun, not rattle cans.

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I use the same paint on the engine as I use on the tractor. The only area that turns dark is around the exhaust.

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OK great. Thanks. question: can I paint the head too or do i leave it bare for cooling purposes?

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I paint mine with cast-aluminum colored Dupi-color engine paint, simply because I like the color and I have a couple of cans on the shelf. Leaving it unpainted will make it subject to corrosion if it gets wet.

 

When the engine came from the factory, the head was painted the same color and with the same paint as the rest of the engine.

Edited by rmaynard

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Oh OK. I bet that silver looks really nice. I'll have to think on what I want. Thanks , Bob.

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The space for silver wheels in the OP is conspicuously blank. Maybe no one is restoring the newer tractors yet. I picked up some wheels for tri ribs for my 314-H and they needed some work. I was more concerned with dealing with rust than getting a perfect match but since the color I chose came pretty darn close I thought I'd share. I chose Rustoleum metallic Matte Nickel.

 

DSC_8205-PP.JPG

 

Here is a side by side comparison with an OE wheel from my '97 314-H. I have no idea if there is much fading, but these are usually covered by hub caps. The new paint seems to be a slightly lighter shade, but not by much. The lustre is a little less shiny than the factory paint. I see that Rustoleum has this color in a satin finish and the next time I want to do some wheels, I'll probably go with that.

 

DSC_8202-PP.JPG

 

Edit: Forgot to identify the left wheel as the OE color and the right is the Rustoleum.

Edited by HankB

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So for the work horse its just pewter grey nothing special or are there different contrasts of color you can use? There's a paint shop where I live where they take a picture of the pant and can match it exactly as it is on the tractor.

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