landrover55 0 #1 Posted December 11, 2009 Is there an alternate part for the charging system on a K341S engine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,042 #2 Posted December 11, 2009 Get a 15 amp any one will work you may have to modify the plug but all have three terminals 2 AC from the motor (stator) and one DC that goes to the ignition switch. (makes no difference which way you hook up the 2 AC) They are on Ebay all the time for 10-20 bucks. Look for Kohler regulator and don't limit your self to Wheel Horse, JD and others work just fine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 70 #3 Posted December 12, 2009 Paul is right they are high,ebay is a good source,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #4 Posted December 12, 2009 John, first and before you spend ANY money, make sure all the connections to the rectifier assy are clean and tight and make certain your connection from the case of the rectifier to the chassis ground is clean. Sometimes a 50 cent wire connection between the rectifier mounting screw and a good chassis ground is all that is lacking. Just make sure all your charging path connections are cleaned up before you clean your wallet out. :notworthy: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Suburban 550 28 #5 Posted December 12, 2009 :notworthy: John. As Chuck just said, make sure all of the wiring is clean and tight before spending alot of money on a rectifier. I just had an issue with my C-121 discharging and it turned out to be a dirty connection at the plug that plugs into the rectifier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,444 #6 Posted December 13, 2009 John. There is a Stens dealer here in Ontario that gives me overnight service on parts. http://www.bantasaw.com/ Type in the Kohler part number and see what comes up. Then click on the line for the cost. Ideal Suppy is also the Napa distributor if you have one of those but so far they don't seem to keep a lot but can get. A quick check of the output wiring is with the key on and the engine not running, the Bat+ terminal on the regulator must have battery voltage. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #7 Posted December 13, 2009 hey john,i am near orangeville so i have a c160 that was not charging and i got alot of help here at red square,as chuck said and he helped me a great deal on my problem,as well as others,thankyou all,anyway my problem was a bad ground at the rectifier,i ran a direct ground wire from the rec to a proper ground,cleaned all the conectors and other grounds,replaced any bad wires and she is better than new,try this out,might work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
418a 0 #8 Posted December 24, 2009 Hey guys I,ve got a Question on the stator if you unplug it from the motor start it up should I get a ac current out of that piece or does it have to be plugged in?? To the recifier,My 125c is not charging and I need to find out what is wrong Thanks Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,042 #9 Posted December 24, 2009 Pull the plug from your regulator. Two of the wires come from the engine stator. Use you multimeter on AC and check for voltage with engine running...should get well over 28 volts.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
418a 0 #10 Posted December 24, 2009 Thanks Paul.There is no current at all do I have to go in the motor. Is there anything else to check here? Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,042 #11 Posted December 24, 2009 If you got no voltage on between the two AC wires with the motor running then check for resistance between the two with the motor off. Should be .1 or .2 ohms...no continuity stator is bad. Also check for continuity between each leg and ground, should be nothing if you have continuity stator is bad. Stators are on ebay all the time...don't limit yourself to wheel horse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
418a 0 #12 Posted December 24, 2009 Thanks paul, i'll work on this some more Saturday and have a Merry Christmas.Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #13 Posted December 25, 2009 418a, just a reality check here you keep saying CURRENT from the stator. Paul keeps mentioning VOLTAGE. You should have your multimeter set to measure AC VOLTAGE If you were trying to measure AC CURRENT, the low resistance of the multimeter may have draw over 15 amps from the stator and blown a fuse (hopefully in your meter, its much easier to replace than a stator.) If you meter fuse is blown on AC AMPS - you will always get a 0.00 indication on the meter readout - no current flowing thru a blown fuse in the meter. Might be worth a quick check. :notworthy: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
418a 0 #14 Posted December 25, 2009 Chuck,Thanks for the heads up !!My multimeter says ac dc volts together,it will switch over and flash AC when I test it on a AC connection.I'll check everthing out Saturday, I'll let you know.Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #15 Posted December 26, 2009 Brian, thanks for the reply. Now you have me interested. I have been using multimeters 35+ years and never saw one that switched automatically from AC to DC or vice cersa. I know some meters will auto range but I have never seen any that anticipate what you want to measure. Makes me curious on how you would test for small AC ripple on a DC supply , or how you would test for DC leakage current in an AC circuit ??? If you can post a picture of the meter or know the manufacturer / model - post that. Like my signature says, I like to learn something new every day. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 133 #16 Posted December 26, 2009 Chuck I have a meter that switches automatically, it is a Flute but at work so I dont have a model number. It works great for the maintenance work I do. P,J. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
418a 0 #17 Posted December 26, 2009 Chuck,i thought I was wrong but here you go .Its a weston 6204 .On the first switch it has the letters DC followed by a flat line with a dotted line under it forward slash AC and a sideways s . I have on the next dial low volts 20VAC and a sideways s it has a continuity ,resistance and a diode test switch.5 switches all together.Hope I'm using this right? Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
418a 0 #18 Posted December 26, 2009 Reading on the multmeter has a volts autofunction the unit automatically selects volts AC or DC If the AC input is less than 20 VAC the instrument measures DC volts if the AC input is greater than 20VAC the instrument measures AC volts,On the back panel.Brian :notworthy: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #19 Posted December 26, 2009 Bitten, Brian thanks for the reply. I have to say I never knew such a a thing existed. I cannot find any reference to a Weston Voltmeter 6204 on the internet. What I have a hard time with is how the meter manufacturer decides where to switch the function. As you stated - its around 20 VAC. This meter must be intended for a more specific function (telephone line repair, industrial work, etc) where certain conditions always exist and are predictable. My question is if you wanted to check your AC ripple on your car alternator, you would need to measure something like 200 - 400 mv AC on a 12 volts DC source, how would you set your meter to do that ?? Not to doubt you or the meter, but I might invest in a sub $10 meter to check if you have any AC out of the stator before ripping it apart. A few quick Ohms checks would work out too. Stator wire to stator wire should be around .2 to .6 ohms. Check each stator wire to ground to make sure the stator is not grounded to the chassis. I'll keep looking for the Weston 6204 info - thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
418a 0 #20 Posted December 26, 2009 Ok I do have continuity from the stator and I don't from the ground side of the battery both wires.I checked the voltage again an it said .02 .05 ac so what could it be? Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,042 #21 Posted December 26, 2009 If all you are getting is .02 volts the stator is bad (or you have the scale wrong on your meter) If I understand you you have continuity between the two stator leads (What is the ohm reading??) Have you checked each lead independently from the lead to the engine block for continuity?? (Should read open) Have to ask... how often have you used this multimeter??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
418a 0 #22 Posted December 27, 2009 ohm reading on the meter is .01 .00.Ive checked other stators and the meter will read 24. 27.AC Volt running .Could the ground be fouled under the flywheel,not getting a good ground??I,ve used the meter when I need too,not often enough.This motor was rebuilt 3years ago and wondering maybe something came a loose?? Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,042 #23 Posted December 27, 2009 If you are not getting 28 + volts then the stator is bad. Unlikely it is an issue of something coming loose. Under the flywheel, loose would be accompanied by a whole lot of strange noises( there are no moving parts under there). Stators are frequently on ebay and fairly cheap. Pull the flywheel and look at the stator if the leads are not broken time to swap it out.... I am still wondering did you get any ohm readings between each lead and the engine block??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
418a 0 #24 Posted December 27, 2009 No reading between the block and the wires meaning theres no grounds in the stator,correct??? So I have to tear into this peace!! anything to worry about? And will a 10hp kolher stator fit a 12hp kohler?? Thanks for the help!!!! Paul I'm just trying to learn without making alot of mistakes .Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #25 Posted December 27, 2009 The armature of the stator is grounded to the bearing plate through the four mounting screws. As previously stated...... With engine stopped: There should NOT be continuity between either stator lead and the engine block. If there is, it means that the stator windings are shorted to the armature (ground) or the leads have shorted to the engine. There should be .1 to .2 ohms of resistance between the two stator leads. If there is "infinity" resistance, the stator windings are open and the stator needs replaced. Personally, I would have had the flywheel off of this by now. There's a good possibility that the magnets are no longer glued to the flywheel and are stuck to the stator instead. As far as the interchangeability goes - the P/N 237878-S 15 amp stator was used on a bunch of Kohler engines from 6 to 25+hp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites