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Multimeters

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Save Old Iron

Just curious ..............

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Sarge

I have 3 different meters, one is an older analog . Use them all the time for a wide variety of troubleshooting work . One of the best skills you could ever learn is how to properly use a meter!

Sarge

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Kelly

I use my multi meter but I use my test light more.

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Rollerman

I have both analog & digital, I'll admit my skill with both are pretty asic.

It's nice to have both even if I'm a little dark on the procedures.....I can always do a web search & read up.

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Raider12

Use them all the time for a wide variety of troubleshooting work . One of the best skills you could ever learn is how to properly use a meter!

Sarge

Same here, I have a wide range of different meters, some are pretty simple and a little and a I have very expensive Fluke that can tell you when the coffee is ready. For the most part, working on my older Wheel Horses, I use the antalog. There are just like any other tool in my box, you have use to the correct tool to do the right job.

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Save Old Iron

One of the best skills you could ever learn is how to properly use a meter!

Sarge

Thanks guys - right tool for right job - exactly.

Analoge vs digital - no real issues there. Its more how you use the meter.

Sometimes a "power it off and ohm it out " procedure is best, testing components / wiring for continuity and then assume the current will flow properly when the circuit is powered up.

There is also the "measure the voltage until it disappears" method. This can be accomplished by the lite on a wire method.

I'm just curious when folks ask for help troubleshooting an electrical issue there should be some mention of what tool's they have available. Those who are always willing to offer help might be more effective if troubleshooting methods can be matched to the tools available on the other end of the computer screen. I know none of us want to over-run the ability of the person asking for help and loose them or confuse them more in the process of trying to help. On the other hand, keeping things too "Fisher Price" simple and generic like "check the wiring" may be just as frustrating.

Let's open it up for discussion and see where we go.

:scratchead:

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WheelHorse_of_course

Thanks guys - right tool for right job - exactly.

Analoge vs digital - no real issues there. Its more how you use the meter.

Sometimes a "power it off and ohm it out " procedure is best, testing components / wiring for continuity and then assume the current will flow properly when the circuit is powered up.

There is also the "measure the voltage until it disappears" method. This can be accomplished by the lite on a wire method.

I'm just curious when folks ask for help troubleshooting an electrical issue there should be some mention of what tool's they have available. Those who are always willing to offer help might be more effective if troubleshooting methods can be matched to the tools available on the other end of the computer screen. I know none of us want to over-run the ability of the person asking for help and loose them or confuse them more in the process of trying to help. On the other hand, keeping things too "Fisher Price" simple and generic like "check the wiring" may be just as frustrating.

Let's open it up for discussion and see where we go.

:hide:

There is also "Voltage drop" testing

Current x Current = Resistance x Amp.

Therefore Current/Amps = resistance

So, with the circuit active (e.g current flowing) a wire or connection will read a low voltage if it is ok (e.g. low resistance). If it reads a substantial voltage then you have a bad wire or joint.

Analogs are generally better because it is much easier to see intermittent problems.

Digital are better for adjusting things. For example if you have a production line and you want to to adjust a bunch of things to a specific setting digitals are faster.

One thing to remember with Analog meters, if the battery is low your readings will be off and you won't know. Most analog meters will do voltss and amps with no battery.

:scratchead: :ychain:

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Save Old Iron

There is also "Voltage drop" testing

Current x Current = Resistance x Amp.

Therefore Current/Amps = resistance

So, with the circuit active (e.g current flowing) a wire or connection will read a low voltage if it is ok (e.g. low resistance). If it reads a substantial voltage then you have a bad wire or joint.

Excellent technique for checking hi resistance connections,

Very useful for all those half fried fuse holders and corroded connections to battery terminals and starter terminals.

You might want to recheck those formulas tho :scratchead:

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04fxdwgi

Use the digital in conjunction with the good old test light. For all that already know how and can attest, the "voltage drop" method of testing with the test light is by far the fastest and easiest method of test. Gets you in the ball park where the digital can pinpoint the problem. Can test nearly any 12 VDC problem with a light that you can test with a meter, as long as electronics aren't involved / looking for certain "levels" of voltage.

Only draw back to the digital is the extremely high impedence of the meter which, at times, may mask a problem, where the test light will let the probelms "shine through". As I said, use both on the simple 12 VDC circuits and your good to go.

A very good test light is sometimes as much money as a cheap digital meter. The best test lights have a nice sharp probe to pierce insulation to get to the copper without slipping and testing for voltage 1/4 inch beneath your skin.

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04fxdwgi

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Red Iron

I use both the analog and digital and my "3rd eye" (bulb tester). Depending

on the kind of trouble I'm looking for, I use what method that seems to

work best for me. That 3rd eye can be left on tractor for finding bothersome

loose connections going over bumpy areas. I still have a HeathKit VTVM

and a Simpson (Analog) and my newest is a Sperry (Digital).

I hardly use my VTVM that much anymore, it's a classic! without the troublesome banana jacks,

but it requires to be plugged into a house receptacle-TUBES need

a little more than batteries to make 'em glow.

Another formula handy is:

Power = Volts x Amps (P = ExI) Power is in "watts".

Power is the "load" on your battery & alternator/generator.

As stated here elsewhere, the resistance does affect how much

power it takes to "run", depending on the voltage applied.

The most common problem I find in electrical systems are the terminals

being crimped improperly (wrong size for the wire). Another one I have

found is wiring not secured to prevent it from rubbing the insulation

off on a sharp corner someplace or breaking the strands at terminals.

I'm not scared to say that my 3rd eye is my favorite way to find loose

connections. It works on any system, as long I have the right bulb in the

socket (6v, 12v, 24v, etc). It's useable at night too while mowing under

the stars. :scratchead:

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Save Old Iron

Now if you could only mount some of those high powered LED's under your mower deck - you would look like a UFO taking off when you mow at dusk - too cool !! :scratchead:

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Save Old Iron

Jerry,

this wasn't a post for "only real men use digital voltmeters".

Just trying to get some perspective if someone asks for help troubleshooting the electrics of the tractor , generally speaking, what tools do they have available to do the troubleshooting.

Thanks for your perspective tho - valid as anyone else's.

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Don1977

I have an analog meter and an automotive test light, I use both.

Then as my mechanic says there Is the "Smoke Test" for finding shorts.

Just by past the fuse and look for the smoke, and be ready to put the fire out.

I've used that a time or two myself. :hide::scratchead: :ychain:

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Sarge

"Smoke test", that one kills me...lol . I have more than once stooped so low to find a small short out of site that the old reliable 300amp battery charger came out, gets the smoke going quick !

As for meters, I really do prefer my old analog, which I forgot there is another basic VAT meter I use on occasion. One interesting thing and reason to keep an analog around is for checking the pickup coils in GM ignitions . Nice to see that needle bounce if the pickup is working! Drawback to old one I have is the very odd rectangular battery, don't remember but maybe an "N" type? Have to special order them about every other year though....

As for night mowing-check into the new craze of small , efficient, low-draw LED lamps for rock crawler rigs. Some of these lights are nearly blinding and so small (not to mention easy to mount) they can easily be hidden . Even come in a wide array of colors , too.

BTW-thanks for the formulas, don't play with electronics enough to keep them stuck in the cobwebs upstairs. I gave up working on cars/trucks years ago when stuff got so unreliable. Friend of mine came over today with his stupid Yukon-again. Air bag (suspension) system not working, ABS not working, some interior stuff not working. Bad wiring somewhere, good luck pal...lol . Won't even waste my time, trade it off ! Getting too old/blind to be under the dash anymore.

And finally, crimp connectors-this is a bad irritation for me. If you work on anything that has vibration-don't use them . I've replaced so many connectors over the years I've worn out 2 good pairs of Channelock dikes, they just don't last. I prefer to solder the connections and use double wall vinyl shrink boot, they don't shake loose nor get the usual corrosion. I even solder battery cable connectors and boot them as well ....

Sarge

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Save Old Iron

how about this

park your tractor next to a flagpole and connect the suspected bad wiring to the flag pole - wait until a lightning storm passes and whatever is left in the tractor after the strike is good - what has disappeared was obviously too conductive ...............

:scratchead: man, i hope everybody knows i'm just kiddin' around

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HorseFixer

how about this

park your tractor next to a flagpole and connect the suspected bad wiring to the flag pole - wait until a lightning storm passes and whatever is left in the tractor after the strike is good - what has disappeared was obviously too conductive ...............

:hide: :scratchead:

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Save Old Iron

Yep, passed down thru the generations from my uncle, Benjamin Franklin.

:scratchead:

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64s

how about this

park your tractor next to a flagpole and connect the suspected bad wiring to the flag pole - wait until a lightning storm passes and whatever is left in the tractor after the strike is good - what has disappeared was obviously too conductive ...............

Does That Work With Wives And Children Too?????

NO, Its a joke.

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Greg Parnell

I have an analog meter, digital meter and test bulb and use all three.

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Save Old Iron

Does That Work With Wives And Children Too?????

NO, Its a joke.

64s,

don't know but I would say you'll have to take them out of the electrolysis tank first !! :scratchead:

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linen beige

don't know but I would say you'll have to take them out of the electrolysis tank first !! :hide:

Is it true they make great sacrificial electrodes? :scratchead:

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KB9LOR

I have an analog, and a 12v test light I use also, but I have used the digitals.

Brian

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