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92Pony

What would cause this - 520 dying

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92Pony

I was using my 520h yesterday cutting some grass. I had been running it for probably 45min or so. I started cutting in the back yard, when after 20ft, it died just like it had run out of gas. I checked, and it had plenty..... The battery was very dead - (I had used a charger to get it started initially). I brought jumper cables over and jump-started it with my golf cart. I continued mowing for about 15min, and it did it again. Jump-started, and it ran for 2min and died again. Lather, rinse, repeat - this time, it ran 30sec. I let the battery charge via the cables for longer this time, and it started and ran long enough to get back to the shop - 2-3min, where I parked it and shut it down.

Could a stone-cold dead battery be causing this?

I have it on the charger now, trying to get a full charge back on it. I hope that's it - otherwise I have to try to figure out exactly what it is..... :scratchead:

Thanks

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nylyon

I think that a bad battery will cause the problem, but if you were running full throttle I would think that the alternator would be enough to power the coil.

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nylyon

Look into the Links sticky, towards the bottom is the link to the Onan Performer manual I just uploaded.

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92Pony

I was running about 3/4 throttle....3000rpm. I've also noticed strange charging fluctuations (according to the gauge), so I don't know that it was charging good anyway.

Edit Just d/l'ed the manual - Thanks!!

Thanks

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Duff

I think that a bad battery will cause the problem, but if you were running full throttle I would think that the alternator would be enough to power the coil.

Coach and others, I've heard that if the battery has a shorted cell it will draw more than the alternator can provide. Ran into this once with an outboard boat motor.....

Just a thought...... :hide:

Duff :scratchead:

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herbinohio

i had a very similar problem on my 520. ended up being the voltage regulator was bad.

you might try unplugging it and cleaning all of the connections.

shane

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Raider12

Wade, your problem could very well be the battery. But the question at hand is .... is the charging system working? Sometimes a faulty charging system will drain a battery rather than just stop charging one. I would start by charging the battery over night and testing it with a draw test (Autozone can do this). If the battery passes, then install it back in the tractor and but a volt meter on it. It should a little over 12 volts (12.3 to 12.7 or so) Then start the tractor with the engine running above idle, chech the voltage again. It now should be aprox 13.1 up to 13.8. If it is not up to the 13 volt range then the charging system needs tested further. If the voltage to high this would most likly be the regulator and this will burn a battery up.

But I would start with the easy part first and thats the battery and your connections.

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Doubletrouble

I agree with Raider12. By doing this you will isolate the battery first to test it then the charging system. Best to diagnose seperately than to just guess at it and spend more $$. Just my .02

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92Pony

I charged the battery overnight, and put it back on this afternoon. I ran it for about 30min or so worry-free.

I did notice the charge gauge a couple of times reading very high (16), and then 2min later, it was reading between 10 and 12. I'll pull those connections at the VR and clean them.

I'll snag a meter from work to check the voltages of the battery - thanks for those ranges to look for Raider.

Wade

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Bow_Extreme

Usually you will find a burnt wire at the voltage regulator and problems at the fuse terminal next to the battery. This is a major cause of electrical issues and battery charging issues.

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92Pony

I took a VOM home yesterday and checked the battery. I'm a little puzzled though - Now, this is ASSuming that I was using the meter correctly; With the ignition off, across the battery I was getting a reading of ~15.6v. I started the tractor, and the reading went to 19v. I looked down at the gauge, and it was pegged high. After 5sec or so, the gauge dropped to 10-12v, and the meter was back to reading ~15.6v.

I shut it down, and pulled the connectors from the regulator. There was a little corrosion (like in Save Old Iron's pic in the link). I used some elec contact cleaner, and cleaned those terminals and conectors, put a little dielectric grease on them and re-connected. I pulled the fuses, hit them with shop air, elec contact cleaner, and then reinserted the fuses after giving them a cleaning and a *light* coat of dielectric grease.

It was at that point that I got called in to supper, and from there on to my son's football practice, so I didn't get to check on things afterward. I may not get to get back at it today (there are NOT enough hours in the day!), but will report back as soon as I do.

Thanks guys - thanks for those links Save Old Iron!

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Save Old Iron

Wade, I would make those same voltage checks on your car - just to confirm the new meter you bought is actually working correctly ( I bet it is and I bet you are doing all this properly).

15+ volts DC is definitely overcharging and the fact that you saw 19 volts DC across the battery tells me your rectifier / regulator circuity is probably at fault (corroded connections or poor rectifier grounding to the engine). The AC voltage coming from the stator could be as high as 40 volts AC and that rectified (converted to DC) could easily be above 19 volts DC. That's where the REGULATOR part of the rectifier / regulator kicks in and chops the +19 DC down to approximately + 13 to +14 volts DC and tries to keep it there.

Again, check your car battery - should be about 12 - 13 DC without the car running and probably +14 and slightly above when the engine running.

If you care to check your stator output to get the experience - put your meter on AC volts and select a range that will read upwards of 40 volts AC.

Place your meter leads across the two outer terminals on the regulator (probably 2 black or 2 white wires from the stator) and observe the meter. AC volts will vary with the engine speed but should be around 20 volts AC at idle and increasing to probably around 40 volts AC at full speed. FYI - when measuring AC - you do not need to be concerned which meter lead is placed on what terminal of the regulator. Meter lead orientation only matters on DC and when you are "ohming out" a diode. Its probably described well in the meter instruction manual.

Get back to us and give an update

:scratchead:

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wfopete

Make sure you check ALL the connections to include terminals and GROUNDS. When in doubt whip out you VOM gage to check for continuity. Good luck.

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Save Old Iron

Pete,

now your talkin ........... gather as much real information as you can about the problem before replacing parts.

measure twice - fix once !!

BTW - just the guy I was looking for. As a previous WH rep - pls chime in on this one if you would.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...t=0entry98292

Sorry, :scratchead: I know. But as long as I have your attention ....

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