Rebuild Kit on Ebay

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,342]

I saw this . It's a rebuild kit for a K321. The seller says it's a Stens.

First question, any opinions on a Stens rebuild kit, pros, cons, quality, etc?

Second question, anyone deal with this seller? He appears to have a good ebay score.

I have been doing a little searching for rebuild kits since I will need one shortly. :thumbs:

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,120]

I asked the same question over on MTF The venerable ole Wheel Horse

[kpinnc 10,718]

I don't know Terry, no experience with those kits. I would say the "gasket and seal" kits floating around on Ebay may be OK. But if you had to buy an oversize piston or undersized rod, and this is of course only my opinion, but I would stick with the Kohler parts.

If you find an overwhelming number of people who've used the Stens kits with no problems, and for a long period of time, then I apologize for adding to your concerns. I rebuilt a Kohler about 7 years ago with genuine parts. It cost more to go that route, but that engine fires up and runs fantastic to this day. IMHO, that is what you want to have- no worries about looking back.

I would also say the quality of the work on any rebuild makes it or breaks it. If you're doing the work, then you know what was done. I know that the local Toro shop rebuilt a M12 Kohler, spent 500 bucks in parts, and the piston's skirt broke off after one season and ruined the engine. Make sure your machine shop knows how to fit a piston if your engine needs to be bored!

You can find genuine parts on Ebay and other places that will save you a great deal of money. I bought two piston and ring kits last year for $30. Often times, they are listed by part number and most people are too lazy to look them up, so not many bid on them. If you look, you will find what you're looking for at a more reasonable price.

Good luck!

Kevin

[CasualObserver 3,406]

Karl, I remember reading that as he was progressing.

Terry, My two cents would be that what you spend should depend on what your end product is going to be. To me, OEM is worth the money if you're going to WORK it when your done. However, aftermarket is more than adequate if it's destined to become a trailer queen. If the most it's going to run is at low to half-throttle going up and down from the truck or trailer, I don't see any reason in spending more. JMHO! :thumbs:

[Rollerman 290]

Okay I'll step up & say I have bought almost all my rebuild kits from this seller.

I have done one K301 & a couple of K181's useing his "Stens" parts.

They still run & they are "Taylor" tested...my son.

I think the OEM stuff that is available locally is overpriced.....especially when a counter guy calls K series stuff rare!

This same seller offers some nice seat covers for Wheel Horses & other makes too.

Terry I'll give the parts my vote of confidence if it's worth any thing.

If you were to build a puller maybe this stuff would not work for you....however for a tractor around the house for yard work I think they would be equal to factory parts.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,127]

My proboscis insertion:

10 years ago or more, I would have only used Stens rods and pistons for paperweights. Their products have come a long way since then and in some cases exceed OEM parts in quality and fit.

I still prefer to use genuine Kohler connecting rods, but that's only because of the memories I have of the earlier Stens pieces.

Make sure all parts are clean and within the OEM size specifications, use engine assembly lubricant or clean motor oil generously upon reassembly, and torque all fasteners correctly, and you should have an engine that will perform reliably for many years to come.

(I also like a tiny drop of Loctite 243 on the rod cap bolts -- just for insurance )

[kpinnc 10,718]

I also like a tiny drop of Loctite 243 on the rod cap bolts -- just for insurance )

I agree 100%. Those things always made me nervous

Kevin

[whchris 5]

me and my old neighbor built a k-301 for a cub using the 30 over piston and the 10 under rod from him the engine was built up for pulling figuring cheaper parts were ok as we were gonna pull it apart after every pull and give it new rings then we could monitor the parts we pulled it apart twice and everything was good and never did change the ring till this day with 15 or so pulls on it. but it is really how you put it together check everything with a mic inside and out, upside down and backwards don't be cheap replace the crank bearings governor gear all other seals bushing bearings have the valves re seated replace the springs i mean everything or else something old will fail and you'll be back to square one. have fun engine rebuilds involve cursing blood sweat and frustration but when you start that engine up that you did there's no better feeling (well maybe not having to do it in the first place )

p.s. use Brian miller website as a bible its in the links on here (he will also rebuild it for you for what you want to use it for for a reasonable price

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,342]

The block and crank was dropped off at the machine shop this evening. Earlier indications from the machinist is the crank can be saved. He can order the parts for me. He also had a 10 hp Kohler in the shop and he's done hundreds of the K-series Kohlers. I think I'll let him order the parts for me and he also indicated he can guide me through the rebuild as for reassembly. Like I said he is a friend of mine.

[whchris 5]

well then disregard what i said you got it all figured out have fun

[Rollerman 290]

Sounds good Terry...make sure to get some pictures of the reassembly process to share here.

[Stigian 1,234]

Cool thread JD terry

Ive seen these kits on fleabay and had wondered if they were any good, which by the sounds of things they are

I guess id better pull the engine out my Raider and see how worn it is before ordering anything though :D

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Okay I'll step up & say I have bought almost all my rebuild kits from this seller.

I have done one K301 & a couple of K181's useing his "Stens" parts.

They still run & they are "Taylor" tested...my son.

I think the OEM stuff that is available locally is overpriced.....especially when a counter guy calls K series stuff rare!

This same seller offers some nice seat covers for Wheel Horses & other makes too.

Terry I'll give the parts my vote of confidence if it's worth any thing.

If you were to build a puller maybe this stuff would not work for you....however for a tractor around the house for yard work I think they would be equal to factory parts.

Good to know! I have seen these these on flee bay myself. And was wondering about the quality! He has good feedback so he must take care of his customers. I have may tractors to refurb and when I start knoking them out I will use the locktight as TT suggests and Some "WOLVERINE" assembly lube It has to be good if it says WOLVERINE! Yeah like I would use nittney lion lube!

Duke

[Volfandt 7]

Greetings, So far with 15hrs on my K181 since replacing the piston, rod, rings and gaskets w/one of those ebay Stens kits I've got mixed emotions on it.

http://mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t...ghlight=856,876

The good is the engine starts on it's 1st revolution and has more power than it ever had. It barely lugs going up hill with the 36" RM366 enegaged.

The bad is theres a slight knock in the mid rpm ranges.

I don't think its the rod, Im leaning more towards piston slap as it's intermittent. So far I'm not concerned but I'm monitoring it.

A new piston and rings does wonders to these old K engines. If I do tear back into it and it does end up being piston slap, I'll be going oversize. If it's not then I'll cross that bridge when I get to it

FYI Brian Miller of Kohler engine rebuilding/souping up fame runs these STENS in his modfieds.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,342]

For my rebuild, I let the machine shop order the parts and they ordered Kohler parts. That was back in March and I only have a few hours on it, but it runs great. I used the tractor yesterday to remove a tree stump - I just drop the front blade down and since the stump was sort ready to pop, it came out very easy.