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plowmaster

K321 ENGINE TEMP, MUFFLER.

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plowmaster

how hot are these supposed to run? i noticed the shroud on the muffler side of the head isnt there like the 301. whats a good way to get it to run cooler along with replacing the shroud? that will lead me to the exhaust, whats the best type to expel heat and keep power?

thanks

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plowmaster

everyone have me on ignore?

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plowmaster

excuse me, but for some reason i always thought the purpose of a forum was to communicate and share information with people that share intrests. possibly my questions arent interesting. i thought that posting a picture or two would start a decent thread, but i get no replies. i ask about deck information and get no replies. now, i may not have any knowledge to share back, YET, but as i aquire more information i sure as hell will give it back, tenfold, as i understand theres always someone with less wh knowledge than i, and theres always someone with more, and hopefully they can communicat in the same area, IE, this forum. a forum is useless without the trade of information, without that its simply a large facebook page.

i suppose ill just need to find this information on my own. will a lawn ranger deck fit on an a-100, dunno. ill ask here and get no replies. i wait a day or two then ill just spend two hours finding out it will not. whats the temprature a k321 melts down? should i experiment with a new rebuilt kit on the bench? where do i find a pulley for the a-100? you dont. latley anytime i ask for help i feel as though im begging for help. i hate begging. do i not get help due to the fact i dont have ten thousand posts, i surley hope not, and dont believe this is that kind of place. i beleive this is a great source of information and friendship. how often do you stand in a circle of friends and say something only to get no reponse? how long do you stand there before you just move on?

boy i really feel like an a__, but i have noplace else to turn for help. i am sorry to have to write this really. its got to be the most pathetic beg for help ever. ill continue to post and share information as i learn it on my own.

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N.C. horserider

Here is what I did for my C165 muffler that was burning paint off the side of the tractor. This may give you an idea for shrouding your pipe. Also you could use heatproof header tape/wrap sold at auto stores. The high heat may be the carburetor adjustment isn't right.

003-4.jpg

002-4.jpg

001-4.jpg

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plowmaster

thanks for the pics, and the reply. ill have to figger out the carb adjustment i guess.

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N.C. horserider

I'm assuming this is the original Kohler carb. Turn the adjusting screws all the way in until it just touches the seat. Don't force the screws down it will damage the needles. Set the low idle or top screw at 2 1/2 turns out. Turn the high speed, the angled screw on side to 2 turns out this is preliminary settings. The further in you turn them the leaner the mixture and makes it run hotter. The further out the richer and you'll see black smoke.

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plowmaster

after i rebuillt the carby i adjusted them both 2 and a half out, she fired right up, and came down off high idle without a pop. ill try it your way, i can always go back.

with your adjustment compared to mine, i should be seeing it cooler with some smoke, i dont have either. it might very well be due to the atmosphere. i surely cant run it wide open, the whole pipe would be cherry red.

thanks again for the tip.

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TT

Have you checked the point gap yet?

Sounds like they might be a little tight.

If they're set at .020" and seem to be working OK, you should probably check the compression release mechanism on the camshaft and the valve clearance.

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Duff

Plowmaster, some of the guys have jumped in with answers which I'm glad to see. In case you miss(ed) my reply to your other post about lack of replies to your deck questions, just some food for future thought:

Don't be discouraged. We have a ton of members now, so our "readership" numbers are climbing. The right guys may just not have seen your posts yet - as you can see, they eventually do! A lot of folks are on vacations, traveling, and such this summer. Heck, even I, who am a faithful [read] reader have been away for a few days.

I know what it's like to be particularly wound up over a problem and to throw a question out with a delay in anyone answering. The guys here all care, and if we have answers we're more than happy to jump in - we just may not be on the board for periods of time. I'll bet everyone here has paced his/her shop with a problem really jerking a knot is our a**es and not knowing what to do. Patience, my friend and fellow Horse lover - eventually an answer comes.......

Best wishes always,

Duff :thumbs2:

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TT

I just realized something..... this problem is on your 1-7241 (1969) Charger, isn't it?

Does it still have the breakerless ignition? If it does, disregard my suggestion to check the point gap. :thumbs2:

Either way, it could be a timing issue and you can use a regular automotive (strobe) timing light to check it.

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Astrolite

Plowmaster

Have you ever checked the RPM at full throttle? I've never seen one of my mufflers get cherry red! Maybe it's a govener issue or just adjusted too high and it's running too fast. I think around 3600 RPM is recommended for mowing, etc.

TT

You raise a couple of interesting thoughts that I'd like to know a little more about for my own info.

1. How do you check the compression realease and is there any way to check compression on these K motors given that they have a compression release?

2. I've also always wondered about timing these motors with a strobe light, how exactly do you do that?

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TT

First off - excess RPM should have absolutely nothing to do with glowing mufflers (or oil slobbering breathers) if everything else is "up to snuff". If these engines are intended to turn over 4000 RPM for an extended amount of time (pullers, racers, junior dragsters, etc.) they should be equipped with a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system like is used on automobile engines, otherwise they should be fine.

The recommended "no-load" RPM on most WH engines is 3600 - which puts them in the 3200/3400 range while "under load". That's where they make peak horsepower and have optimum cooling.

Checking the compression release is accomplished by removing cam gear cover from the side of the engine block (K-301 thru K-341) and examining the spring and centrifugal flyweights on the camshaft. If the parts are sticking or bent the camshaft will need replaced.

To set ignition timing with an inductive strobe light you will need to locate the access plug or hole in the blower housing or bearing plate (location dependent on engine model and size) and turn the flywheel until you can see the "S" or "SP" mark. Use a paint marker, crayon, etc. to highlight the mark, start the engine and set to about half throttle. (1600-1800 RPM) Aim the light through the timing access hole and adjust point gap as necessary to center the "S" or "SP" mark in the access hole.

*Note: complete information is available in the Kohler service manuals.

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plowmaster

terry, this is the 14 horse were speaking of. the points look good, but thats without a timing light, and im really afraid of touching the governer shaft, as this is why the 12 horse isnt running currently. are you thinking the compression release is stuck, creating the extra heat? one thing i have noticed with the three straight days of mowing ive done, coming off high idle im getting a few pops like uneven backfiring. ill get a small pop after the motor is shut down. i havent been mowing with the idle completley up as im afraid of overheating it. its got plenty of power catching up to this overgrown lawn running a good touch over 3/4 throttle. it runs out smooth and even. it idles great also, i just bring it off wot real slow so as not to backfire it.

im going to need to get some printer activity and whip out a book to tune this thing in the shop.

thanks all for the replies, great suggestions.

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WheelHorse_of_course

after i rebuillt the carby i adjusted them both 2 and a half out, she fired right up, and came down off high idle without a pop. ill try it your way, i can always go back.

with your adjustment compared to mine, i should be seeing it cooler with some smoke, i dont have either. it might very well be due to the atmosphere. i surely cant run it wide open, the whole pipe would be cherry red.

thanks again for the tip.

You have to adjust them "by ear". You back it out till it falters, and then screw it in until it falters... then set it mid point between the two.

Obviously the idle screw is adjusted at low speed and the main screw at high speed.

Sometime you have to go through it twice since there is slight interaction between the two adjustments.

The car adjustment is worth checking and if screwed in too far could cause some over heating.

But the biggest causes of overheating are debris-clogged cooling fan/fins and timing too advanced (eg too early or point gap too big).

Best of luck. :thumbs: :thumbs2:

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