Stigian 1,234 #126 Posted March 27, 2011 Good morning Chaps, yep it's one of those update kinda time again.. But first.......... Do you really sleep Ian....or just lie there coming up with ideas I need my sleep Mike, how else would I be able to keep up my "hairy, windswept and interesting grease monkey" look!! This is possibly the best post ever! very much.. Your black hood rebuild must also qualify for the "possibly best post ever" award I do have a question though, how are you going to turn it? The steering is by brakes.. Think of it this way... If you jack up the back of your WH so both wheels are off the ground (don't forget the axle stands ), start the engine and put it in gear (low ratio 1st would be nice and safe) both rear wheel will turn.. Now if you stop one of the wheels using your foot/hands/add appendage to taste or state of mind, the other wheel will keep on turning. Each side will have independent brakes, like a tractor.. So... If the wheels on each side are linked up via belts and pulleys so all the wheels on say the left side all turn at the same time, (and the same on the right side), by stopping the left hand wheels, the right side wheels would continue turning and (in theory) turn the whole Wh left... Hope that helps Im glad you got that tap out . I wanted to send you that tool.now i want to send you the key way cutter. keep up that great work. #1 fan Have you got a lot of "cheap international postage" tokens you need you use up Mr President C'mon, Chris...fess up, buddy! You really want to jump on a plane and go see that creation in the metal and maybe lend a hand at fabbing - it's in your blood! Can't fool me - I've seen your work! And now, today's main attraction...... Having drilled lots of holes in the outriggers in the last episode, I needed to turn them into less holes So out with what I call the dentist drill.. Yes, the cutting discs really are that small!! Lot's of nasty dentist drill kinda sounds and a few cutting discs later, 21 holes had been turned into 5.. After some "flap wheel in a drill" action the rough edges had gone 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mavfreak 11 #127 Posted March 27, 2011 Your having way to much fun! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #128 Posted March 27, 2011 Your having way to much fun! Yep, might as well make life fun.. It's more er... fun This mornings update got cut a bit short as I decided it was warm enough to finish cutting the grass/lunch/Rob turning up, so here's the rest The next day was nice and warm, so while the final two parts of the rear axle extensions got treated to a few hours in the freezer, both Wh's came out for de-dust/oil check/grease up. A few hours later the now chilled axle bits (the icy looking bits at the top) were shrunk fit with the rest of the hubs. Hhmmm. this project is starting to look a wide again Back on the lathe to check how straight and true things were... Not bad at all, just a slight bit of warp-age on the brake disc mounts to deal with. For good measure the wheel mounting flange 's got the lightest of skims. A good time to try out my new indexable tool bits One job I should of done when I first started this project was to add some legs to the work bench.. Until now the bench has just really been a large slab of chip board screwed onto a metal framed computer desk! It's mock up the out rigger time A close up of the axle extension, bearing block and pulleys. A couple more mock up photo's from Friday.. And one from today Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
repairman 7 #129 Posted March 27, 2011 Looks great are you going to build a snow blade for it? :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #130 Posted March 27, 2011 Looks great are you going to build a snow blade for it? Or maybe Ian, a turret? :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chris11 184 #131 Posted March 28, 2011 Are you using a belt from wheel to wheel? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #132 Posted April 3, 2011 Morning Guy's, well my plan of keeping you updated each evening didn't work out too well (another busy week), so have a weeks worth of updates in one hit Looks great are you going to build a snow blade for it? Hi Repairman, It might well end up with some kind of blade on the front, maybe a big dozer blade at some point. Or maybe Ian, a turret? yes it does have that look I keep looking at it, thinking it needs a pair of tank tracks.. Maybe one day but for now it will have to make do with just 6 wheels.. Are you using a belt from wheel to wheel? Morning Chris, yep that's right belts from wheels to wheels. When I worked out all the measurements for the rear wheel hub extensions, I forgot to take into account the bolt heads that hold the bearing blocks onto the outriggers, which meant the pulleys would not fit right on!! Bu with a couple of new spacers machined up.. And a bit of trimming of the axle extensions... The pulley fitted as it should despite the naff photo.. With both outriggers mocked up in the right places this beast is looking big again! To keep the outriggers in the right places for the next stage I built a frame so I could screw them to the bench. It kinda looks like a bed frame with shifter sticks in this photo To finish that day a couple of bits of box were thrown in the right direction to give me something to "chew over" that evening. As it worked out the bottom of the outriggers is level with the base of the chassis! Stay tuned for the next exciting part of this update which should be........ in about 5 min's after I've popped outside for a smoke :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #133 Posted April 3, 2011 That's better.. it's a pain living in "this" rented place, no smoking inside!! At least it's a nice warm sunny day The next day started off with me getting around to drilling out the rest of the broken tap in a bearing block and re-tapping the thread. With no taps breaking this time the bearing block went back on the lathe for a bit of boring out for bearings. Time for a bit of cutting and welding.. A 4 inch lump was cut from this outrigger off cut. And a couple of 2 1/2 in slices from this.. And the lots of careful measuring, cutting and clamping.. Things will become clearer in a few photo's time. Garry's old (and very burnt) wok came in handy when cutting this box The first of the er... "how to bolt the outriggers to the chassis bits" tacked in place. It may look a bit weak at the moment, but it won't be when it's finished.. A close up to show you how the outriggers will be bolted on. On each side (well top and bottom) of the outrigger I have welded a plate to make the outrigger wall thickness er.. thicker for drilling and tapping... A bit like this.. The bits of threaded steel with a couple of nuts on are only there until the correct bolts turn up in the post. You can also see how I plan to add more strength into this mounting bracket I just need to wait for the right size off-cuts to sort this out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #134 Posted April 3, 2011 And onto the other front steel bar bracket And yes I did have problems getting the red G-clamp out Time to dig the engine out from under the bench. Here Rob shows office chair/wheel rim way of moving an engine about Engine bolted to the chassis.. It's only a 12hp which should have enough power to move this 'orse.... But more power would be nice... Anyone got a cheap working Kohler or Onan engine that's at least 18hp for sale? Of course with the engine in, I had to throw the bodywork on to see how it looks.. Quite strange with only 1 wheel as it happens.. Hhhmmm.. The tread plates are going to need a bit of work to get them to fit once the top bit of chassis to outrigger bracket is welded in! Space inside the wheels is going to be a bit tight.. I need to weld some box between the outrigger mounts so I have somewhere to bolt the inner wheel bearing blocks! The real reason for digging the engine out was to work out where the drive belt runs.. Hhmm... This belt (yes I know it's not the right one, but it helps) could be a bit of a pain to work around... But.......... I may have a plan For a while now I've been thinking that maybe a hydro trans would be ideal for this project.. Just push the motion lever forward and off you go, steering with the brakes.. Take off points for future hydraulics could be handy as well So a couple of questions for you chaps.. Are these hydro trans the same width from axle end to axle end? And how well do you think it would cope with my brake steering idea? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #135 Posted April 3, 2011 Wow!! are you sure your not building a mini tank? with those out riggers and your design, some armor plating and a gun on top that thing will be unstop able. Keep up the great work and this thread is great and can't wait to see this thing on it's wheels and moving! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 133 #136 Posted April 3, 2011 Ian Looks great so far. I am not sure about a Hydro or not as it is still to be seen about the turning ability and you might want the low gear to do that. I do know that you can use the break set up on a hydro unit. One independent hydro motors for each side like a Bobcat might be ideal. As fer the tracks, the use of conveyor belt might work. Just get the size you need and splice them together in a way so they would stay on the tires. I dont know if this would help with steering or not but would give you tracks. Keep up the good work, P.J. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #137 Posted April 3, 2011 Looking good Ian! The belt routing on a hydro would be more suited to your tractor. With the input to the trans being so high on a hydro tractor it frees up some space underneath the frame. I've been looking at similar problems lately with my loader project, I was origonally going to use an 8 speed, but have decided to go with a hydro to allow me to do a better subframe tucked in close to the width of the frame. Here are some pictures that might help. It's a Sunstrand, but my tractor may end up with an Eaton instead. I'll see if I can get you some measurements later in the day... EDIT: Axle tip to axle tip on this hydro (1966 1276) is around 23" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #138 Posted April 17, 2011 Wow!! are you sure your not building a mini tank? with those out riggers and your design, some armor plating and a gun on top that thing will be unstop able. Keep up the great work and this thread is great and can't wait to see this thing on it's wheels and moving! Hi Scott, yes it is sort of turning into a mini tank project.. Well construction wise Better I "over engineer" at this stage of the build than have to spend time rebuilding it as bits break/fall off. I can't wait to see it on it's wheels as well Ian Looks great so far. I am not sure about a Hydro or not as it is still to be seen about the turning ability and you might want the low gear to do that. I do know that you can use the break set up on a hydro unit. One independent hydro motors for each side like a Bobcat might be ideal. As fer the tracks, the use of conveyor belt might work. Just get the size you need and splice them together in a way so they would stay on the tires. I dont know if this would help with steering or not but would give you tracks. Keep up the good work, P.J. Hi P.J, glad you like the looks of this project so far. Good to read that the brake set-up works on a Hydro Interesting thoughts about using a conveyor belt as tracks, it's an idea worth looking into me thinks.. It would also help the pulleys and belts get drive to all the wheels. The good work will be kept up Looking good Ian! The belt routing on a hydro would be more suited to your tractor. With the input to the trans being so high on a hydro tractor it frees up some space underneath the frame. I've been looking at similar problems lately with my loader project, I was origonally going to use an 8 speed, but have decided to go with a hydro to allow me to do a better subframe tucked in close to the width of the frame. Here are some pictures that might help. It's a Sunstrand, but my tractor may end up with an Eaton instead. Thanks for the photo's Mike, it feels just like home seeing bit's of box section clamped onto a Wheel Horse And thanks for the axle width A Hydro would certainly helps with drive belt routing (have you got a link to your loader project build? I couldn't find one) Well, it's been a strange few weeks with not much happening at a very slow rate on this project. Slowly working away seam welding up the chassis and completing a couple more bearing blocks on the lathe, only 5 more to go one I slice up the big slab of steel to make them out of.. Not a job I am looking forward to doing but I need to do it soon as I have ran out of lathe work! Not many photo's for this update, but some is better than none Some diagonal strengthening have been cut and tacked in place to help keep the outriggers where they should be. To mount the inner wheel bearings for the front and middle pairs of wheels some more box section have been cut and mocked up in close to the right place. Even more box mocked up. This chassis will be on the strong (and just maybe a little heavy) side of things when it's all seam welded. One of the sixteen top outrigger mounting bolt holes being drilled out. These have all been drilled and tapped now. That's all for now folks, other than........ Rob and I went on a 300 mile round trip up to Swindon yesterday to buy quite a major component for this project. It was good to catch up with Bob yesterday, you live in a beautiful place Sir. It was a long day, but worth it.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #139 Posted April 18, 2011 Evening Guy's, it's been a bit of a quiet day in the shack today with more ing than Wh work going on. The first job of the day was to remove the remains of the C-175 body from the trans. The strange metal thingy bolted to the wheel hub is my home made hub puller. The puller has been cranked up to quite a lot of pressure, so fingers crossed the hub will have moved by the morning. With all the brake bits and motion lever removed... Some ing was needed to try and work out how to fit that lot into the Raider 10 body that will give this project a more older look. Out came the tripe measure, hhmm interesting.. The Raider body is the same width as the C-175 inner body.. Best chuck it on the chassis to see if it fits with my chassis mods. Close.. The mounting holes almost line up Plenty of space for the lifty thingy as well. Some slight trimming later and it bolts to the chassis Lots of clearance for the Hydro belt tension-er, looks like my plan might just work!! "So what is the plan?", I hear you ask... The plan is to cut the top off the C-175 bit an inch or so above the lift arm, cut the same amount off bottom of the Raider 10 body, and weld them together.. It will mean I will need to put another belt guard type thing on the other side than normal to hide the ends of bolts/levers/lift arm thingys. But more on that when I start to sort the body.. Loads more seam welding and lathe work to do yet.. Oh just in case anyone is interested, I have just put a 8 speed trans, a 312-8 rear fender pan and a C-175 dash on ebay.. Discount to RedSquare members of course :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry w 2 #140 Posted April 19, 2011 WoW! What an inspirational post! That thing is going to be a beast! You will be able to rebuild Stonehenge with that! VERY cool! Thanks for the info, humor and wit as well as the knowledge! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dgjks6 6 #141 Posted April 21, 2011 Its coming together. Keep the pics and posts coming. I may have missed this, but do you have a name for it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,490 #142 Posted April 23, 2011 If it gets any better than this -it's just a dream! Can't wait to see this rolling over the countryside! Fred Ropkey, just north of me in Crawfordsville, Indiana has one of only three operation Worl War I U.S. tanks in the world. It looks a lot like what you are working on STIG! http://www.ropkeyarmormuseum.com/ :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #143 Posted April 23, 2011 In your last pic, if you weld that piece of steel there, you will not be able to get a belt on it. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #144 Posted April 25, 2011 waiting impatiently for this weeks update!!! c'mon I want to see the belt fitted! mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #145 Posted April 29, 2011 Update coming later today Mark :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #146 Posted April 29, 2011 WoW! What an inspirational post! That thing is going to be a beast! You will be able to rebuild Stonehenge with that! VERY cool! Thanks for the info, humor and wit as well as the knowledge! Gerry. Its coming together. Keep the pics and posts coming. I may have missed this, but do you have a name for it? It's coming together not as fast as I would like, but it's getting there. An interesting question about a name for it!! It's such a mix of parts, the chassis is C-121, the dash and bit that holds it up is Raider 10, the hydro trans is C-175, no idea what the hood is from!! As the only engine I have for it at the moment is a 12hp, maybe call it a Raider 12 6X6??? Suggestions on a postcard please If it gets any better than this -it's just a dream! Can't wait to see this rolling over the countryside! Nope, it's not a dream.. The big pile of welded together metal on the bench does exist I can't wait to be driving it through the countryside!! Fred Ropkey, just north of me in Crawfordsville, Indiana has one of only three operation Worl War I U.S. tanks in the world. It looks a lot like what you are working on STIG! Do you think he would sell me some tracks to put on my machine? In your last pic, if you weld that piece of steel there, you will not be able to get a belt on it. When the new hydro trans goes on the drive belt will take a different route on it's rearwards journey, it will run above the top of the chassis and not have to pass through the frame. Scroll up and have a look at Mikes (Sorekiwi) loader project and you will see what I mean. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #147 Posted April 29, 2011 These blasted wheel hubs on the hydro have been a right pain in the 'orse to get off! My custom made hub puller decided to strip it's thread under the strain of it all! Best move onto some metal work for now, Pete starts to clean up some box section.. But before any welding the engine needed to come off the chassis.. Slightly tight for height, you might say Some of Pete's freshly cleaned up steel cut into strengthening gussets and part welded on. These should stop any front and back bending should the outriggers be hit by and fast moving trees or walls Putting gussets on the back is a bit more fun as part of the brake linkage sits right where I want to put a gusset.. As the lower part is only for a brake return spring maybe I will cut it off and relocate the return spring?? I only have enough space on the belt side to put a very small gusset! I think this part of the chassis is strong enough Yet more gussets, this time on the outrigger side of things. These have only been tack welded on as I was rapidly running out of welding rods! And a start has been finally made on slicing up this big slab of steel to make more bearing blocks.. Tune back in for more of the same after this short smokie break :wh: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #148 Posted April 29, 2011 I had been wondering quite what to use the hydraulic ram that came with the hydro trans. I didn't think it would fit in it's original place between the brake pedal bar and the lift arm, so had to measure it to find out. My 24volt buzzy thingy or cordless drill as they are normally know had enough guts to spin up the trans to get the hydraulic ram fully extended. Hhhmmmm. Nope it won't fit! As it could only be used for pulling a steel cable to lift things at the rear, i'm sure I can find a much better use for the ram... maybe a 3 point linkage?? Back to the wheel hub woes Having repaired the hub puller and found five strong bolts, the big bolt got cranked up and the hub heated up! Heat hasn't worked.. 3 in 1 oil hasn't worked.... And diesel hasn't worked.... Time to move into a different league with some bike battery acid A few drops to try and free up the keyway.. Five min's later it's bubbling away and removing rust Then Rob turned up bearing a gift.. A bottle of piddle!! Back to the wheel hubs with a crack as the hub pulled decides to break my welds! Weld it up even stronger, crank up the pressure and crack, the welds break again Starting to get a tad narked off at this point, the hub puller gets a revamp with a big bit of angle which means I can now clamp it to the bench. The welds on the big nut that keeps breaking shouldn't break this time I was right... The welds didn't break....... The threads stripped again :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #149 Posted April 29, 2011 Only one thing for it...... I didn't want it to end this way but..... Out came the cutter!! One off.. The hub other off! It's a waste to cut up two wheel hubs like that, I did want to use them, but there are times when everything else fails The good news is a heavy pack of welding rods turned up yesterday I was going to get on with more gussets and welding on the chassis, but putting on the gussets would of meant covering over two bolt holes.. These bolt holes are the only matching reference points between the Raider 10 hood/dash stand and the newer C-175 item which has just the right holes for mounting the hydro controls. So.. how to combine the two The above mentioned bolt holes came in very handy as measuring points.. Lots of careful measuring and marking out on both items.. Just after the point of no turning back. A sawn off C-175 body part Topped off with some cut down Raider 10 body parts.. Not a bad fit a few minor tweeks needed. A few tacks to hold it together. The bigger picture.. Rather than risk getting a lot of heat distortion by seam welding (done with the arc welder) I decided that lots of tack welds was the way to go. Do ten welds each side and cut the steel slab while the welds cool down. Speaking of a the steel slab, it's almost cut through now Just a touch of weld cleaning, just to see how it would look.. And last photo for this update.. A bit of trimming is needed to get the C-175 shifter stick (or is it motion lever?) to fit, but I was expecting this anyway.. That's all for now folks.. This coming week I hope to get most of the welding done on the chassis, and maybe even a few more bearing blocks spun up on the lathe.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #150 Posted April 29, 2011 Managed to find an hour to get in the shack today.. Due to strange electrics in the house I can only weld for a very short time before a fuse blows somewhere But I got a bit more seam welding done. In between welding I started to clean up the brake rod by hand with sandpaper!! I need another E-tank in my life Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
