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Stigian

Introducing the Stig Special

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Ole MN

the suspence is killing me

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Stigian

After all that, I guess I had better get on with the update.. It's a bit of a big update as well :thumbs:

The following week from my last update started off a bit damp, as the Workshack roof decided it wanted to spring a small leak right above the bench!

TSS101.jpg

The week also started with some thread cutting on one of the axle bearing holders..

a quick bit of maths for you here...

Each thread is 1.5 inches deep with four holes per block..

I need to make ten of these blocks.....

That's five feet of thread cutting by hand :drool:

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I had a visit from Michael (Fordsonmayjortom) from this fine forum..

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He came bearing gifts, what would look like scrap to most people is just what I was looking for, a couple of fender pan :thumbs: 's that I don't mind cutting up and modifying..

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In return Michael got a 314-8 shifter gate, but I forgot to get any photo's of that..

A while on the lathe later and the first side of one of the bearing holder was bored out..

Shame I managed to bore it out about 0.5mm too big for the bearing shell to fit :thumbs:

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Oh well, I can fix that later, better start on another block then..

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That's more like it :thumbs:

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Meanwhile Rob has he's first go at Ark welding in 30 years!!

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Ta-Daa the first (almost) finished bearing holder. It just need a hole drilling and tapping for a grease nipple.

TSS109.jpg

Back with some daft photo's shortly :drool:

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Stigian

the suspence is killing me

Don't let it kill you, kill it first :drool:

I did warn you all about a few daft photo's, here they are :drool:

Dr Garry injecting cutting fluid while tapping treads in one of the bearing blocks!!

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The effects from spraying red oxide paint onto a wheel hub in an in-closed space can be quite worrying :thumbs:

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So I didn't end up like Garry, I hid in a big bucket.

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I guess the paint fumes were still lingering when Garry Oldfield played his rendition of Tubular Hammers :thumbs:

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After what felt like weeks of welding the chassis backbone was fully seam welded up, now the fun part of cleaning it up before a coat of paint..

Not quite "Charlies Angels", but getting there :thumbs:

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30 sec's after starting my old faithful Black & Decker decided to give up on working and start spewing smoke out instead (We couldn't get a decent photo) so the grinder helped finish the job off.

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Painted up and bolted to the trans.

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The next day started cold and the laptop needed pre-warming to get it into life again :)

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With two bearing holders bored and drilled out the time had come to start thinking about what was needed to get the chassis outriggers in the right place.

Fitting the bearing shells was one such job, so the bearing blocks went onto the wood burner for a while to heat up and expand.

TSS119.jpg

The bearing shells went in here :D

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Something the right size was needed to help tap the bearing shells home, this was spun up from the last remaining bit of a Kawasaki Gpz305 front wheel.

I like getting full value for money from things :drool:

TSS121.jpg

The question I was wondering was "is my lathe work as accurate as I hope it is"?

Somehow it is :thumbs:

TSS122.jpg

And with bearings..

TSS123.jpg

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Stigian

And on to the last part of this slightly big update..

To get the outrigger in the right place needs a little bit more lathe work, but first some mocking up and measuring.

TSS124.jpg

Throw in some cutting action..

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A splash of turning..

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And a big lump of accurate measuring...

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The final part of one of the extended wheel hubs was done if not slotted fully in place.

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X2 with some bad photography skills.

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The wheel bearing blocks also got a coat of rust coloured stuff to keep the rust at bay.

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Meanwhile Rob spins up some spacers on the lathe.

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That's all for this time folks, apart from one question..

Any ideas on how to get this broken tread tap out of this hole? :thumbs:

TSS132.jpg

TSS133.jpg

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n1defan

:thumbs: If you have a ball nose carbide end mill you can mil it out very easily. I also like to add that is one heck of a project that you are working on. Keep up the good work and post lots of pics. :thumbs:

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Ole MN

great way to start my day :thumbs: i'm off to try to repair a broken spindle on my 14.

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chris11

How many flutes on tap was there? you can get a tap extractor. i have a set. need to no what size. i could mail it to you.

Prez of the stig fan club :thumbs:

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AMC RULES

Ian, are you sure two fender pan thingys are going to be enough? :thumbs:

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repairman

you truly are a master craftsman I have read all post from past to present all I can say is WOW! :thumbs::thumbs: cant wait to see finished product. :thumbs:

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Stigian

whtractor/omg.gif If you have a ball nose carbide end mill you can mil it out very easily. I also like to add that is one heck of a project that you are working on. Keep up the good work and post lots of pics. whtractor/not_worthy.gif

Hi Tom, I've had a look on Fleabay at ball nose carbide mills, they are a tad expensive!

My current thinking is to maybe cut a couple of slots in the bearing block to try and release the broken tap.. Then a good welding session to stick the block back together..

But I've not ruled your idea out yet :thumbs:

Glad you like my "heck of a project", though "heck of a big project" might be more fitting when it's finished.

Good work and photo's will be kept up :drool:

great way to start my day thankyousign.gif i'm off to try to repair a broken spindle on my 14.

Happy to of given you a great start to the day Brad, a coffee and a smoke normally doe's it for me :)

Good luck with the broken spindle on your 14..

How many flutes on tap was there? you can get a tap extractor. i have a set. need to no what size. i could mail it to you.

Prez of the stig fan club whtractor/whlogo.gif

Good evening Mr President :thumbs::drool:

I'm guessing by "how many flutes on the tap", you mean the amount of bits that cut the tread.... The answer is... No idea until I can get the tap out to count them

The tap is a M8x1.25.

Thanks for the offer of mailing me a tap extractor, the trouble is drilling the tap out to wind the extractor in.. I've killed 4 drill bit's already!!

Ian, are you sure two fender pan thingys are going to be enough? whtractor/scratchhead.gif

Strangely despite the maths two fenders will do the job nicely, after a bit of rust repairs/widening/lengthening by er...5-ish feet.

The fun part is going to get the swage lines to er... line up B)

you truly are a master craftsman I have read all post from past to present all I can say is WOW! whtractor/not_worthy.gif whtractor/thumbsup.gif cant wait to see finished product. biggrin.gif

Not sure I'd go as far as "master craftsman", more of a "slightly rough round the edges" kinda craftsman, but :thumbs:

Wow!! You've done a lot of reading :drool:

It might take a while to get to the finished project point, but it's going to be worth all the work.

The past couple of days work was nothing worth taking photos of as you have seen them before, just more bearing block boring and welding a brake disc mounting flange on the other wheel hub.

Slightly boring work (excuse the pun), but it need to be done..

Something worth taking a couple of photo's of, was a heavy parcel containing taper lock pulleys and bushes that turned up on my doorstep this afternoon..

I need the measurements from these to complete the last step of the wide rear wheel hub :thumbs: 's

TSS135.jpg

Just in case your wondering where the pulleys are going, here's a clue :D

TSS134.jpg

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Anglo Traction

TSS102.jpg

By the looks of the Tap your using in the picture, it's has 3 flutes, assuming that's the one thats has broken?. Tap extractors have 'Fingers' that pass down the Flutes in the hole to remove them. The only problem is how much swarf is in the flutes.

You could try Heating the Block to red heat and cool it very very slowly to anneal and soften the Tap then drill it out. It should not distort the bore with that size of steel block.

Always enjoy your posts Ian, would like to pay you a visit sometime?.

Regards

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Toejam

the suspence is killing me

yea me tooooooo.

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Stigian

By the looks of the Tap your using in the picture, it's has 3 flutes, assuming that's the one thats has broken?. Tap extractors have 'Fingers' that pass down the Flutes in the hole to remove them. The only problem is how much swarf is in the flutes.

Thanks for explaining that Richard :thumbs: I guess "flutes" was too technical a word for me :drool:

The picture I had in my mind for a tap extractor was like a broken stud extractor, drill a hole and wind the extractor in backwards kinda thing.

Yep, three flutes it is.

Quite how much swarf is stuck in there I don't know, as I wasn't the one who er...might of applied to tad too much pressure!

Always enjoy your posts Ian, would like to pay you a visit sometime?.

Glad you enjoy my posts Richard, thank you for taking the time to read them :thumbs:

Your more than welcome to visit, it will be good to put a face to a name, and have a good natter about :thumbs: 's

I will send you a pm later.

Your not going to drill out that tap. Check this out. http://www.newmantools.com/walton/extrtap.htm

Thanks for the link Mr President, what a great tool! :thumbs:

I did wonder if I could make something that would work the same way, but decided no..

the suspence is killing me

yea me tooooooo.

Don't let it kill you, it would kinda make it a tad harder to read anything on this forum :drool:

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hm12460

Stig!!, I been kinda wonderin', how you going to get that beast off of your work bench and out the door when it's done??

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Stigian

Stig!!, I been kinda wonderin', how you going to get that beast off of your work bench and out the door when it's done??

Morning Harold, getting this project out the door is the easy bit, getting it off the bench however will involve a couple of ramps, lots of blocks to er.. block the ramps up, some careful brake work to try and keep things under control, oh and maybe a bit of luck :drool:

Thursday started as per normal in the Shack, with a couple of daft photo's :D

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And continued with something a bit different, changing the "thumb" throttle for a "twist" throttle on Garry's road legal quad.

Quite a fun machine :thumbs:

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But finished on a heavy metal kinda note when We dragged a large slab of steel into the Shack..

I need to cut another six bearing blocks from this :)

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Before the last part of the wheel hubs could be welded on, a bolt hole had to be created and a key way cut.

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Going back to the broken off tap in the bearing block, I thought I'd give Richards "heat it red hot, cool it very slowly, then try drilling it out" a go.

The wood burner soon got the block cherry red :drool:

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Lot's of forward and back motion, and quite a bit of arm ache later the key way was cut.

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The arm ache was worth it when I was rewarded with a perfectly fitting pulley :thumbs:

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"So did Richards idea work?", I hear you ask....

Well, despite the badly taken iphone photo....... It did :thumbs:

One broken tap being drilled out :drool:

TSS144.jpg

:thumbs: for the top thinking Richard..

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Anglo Traction

Congrats on the Broken Tap Ian :thumbs: , If anyone could do it , you could. The other bous was a Toasty Warm Workshack. Excellent fitting work on the Pulley/Keyway Job. :thumbs: Will be in touch soon.

Regards

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clintonnut

Pretty sweet project Ian. Just a question tho... It looks you modded the offset of the wheel but wouldn't it be better for the offset to be as far in as you could go for a narrower stance and better maneuvering through narrow areas? I can see you having a lot of driving time on this and probably a lot of "mudding" so I just wanted to know as for something that takes this long to make it should be a perfect BEAST!

Charlie

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Stigian

Congrats on the Broken Tap Ian whtractor/not_worthy.gif , If anyone could do it , you could. The other bous was a Toasty Warm Workshack. Excellent fitting work on the Pulley/Keyway Job. whtractor/thumbsup.gif Will be in touch soon.

I could not of got the broken tap out without your "heat it up" suggestion, :thumbs: Richard.

The warm Workshack was a real bonus as it was a really cold day that day.

Strangely enough, that was the first time in a week odd that weather was nasty enough for me to have to light the wood burner.

Maybe the weather knew you were going to suggest a lot of heat was going to be needed that day :thumbs:

Pretty sweet project Ian. Just a question tho... It looks you modded the offset of the wheel but wouldn't it be better for the offset to be as far in as you could go for a narrower stance and better maneuvering through narrow areas? I can see you having a lot of driving time on this and probably a lot of "mudding" so I just wanted to know as for something that takes this long to make it should be a perfect BEAST!

Hi Charlie, yep the wheel offset has been widened a bit, but it needed to be done so I would have somewhere to put my feet while driving it :drool:

I agree that narrower would be better (the widened rear wheel hubs have lost an inch each side in width since I first started making them) and running the pulleys and drive belts inside the outriggers (not the outside) has saved another couple of inches each side :thumbs:

Your right, this machine is going to get a lot of driving time, mostly ironing out the bugs to start with, then it will be put to work..

And yes, I expect some "mudding" will happen :thumbs:

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Stigian

Evening Guy's, just a quick update on the days proceedings as I'm suffering that "Monday evening" feeling :thumbs:

Today has been a start work on the outriggers kinda day.

After lot's of careful measuring and marking where the axle centers will go, the outriggers got trimmed down to size.

Even with only a couple of feet sliced off the end's, the outriggers felt a lot smaller!

TSS145.jpg

A couple of action photo's for you.

Cutting an access panel so the drilling jigs could be bolted down.

This access panel will also come in handy for er... access to bolt the bearing blocks onto the outrigger and also the pulleys.

TSS146.jpg

And a close up of the grinding sparks doing their best to set my shirt on fire :thumbs:

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First of the jig's bolted on, this is for marking where the bearing block mounting holes have to go.

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The second jig makes chain drilling much faster. This is to allow the bearing rubbers to rotate without rubbing on the outrigger.

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It was quite easy to fit a 6ft,4" length of box under the pillar drill.

Just behind the door are some metal shelves, the top on was just the right height to rest one end of the box section on :thumbs:

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It looks like the aliens have landed in the shack and left me a crop circle :drool:

The off center hole was just a test drilling to see if my rechargeable drill was up to the job. It would of done it but taken a very long time!

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Sixty three holes later :drool:

Tomorrow I will turn those sixty three holes into a fifteen!

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Last photo for this quick update, the second bit of rear axle extension hub :thumbs:

has been machined to the right length, and the hole drilled and tapped.

Oh, and a start on cutting the key way..

TSS153.jpg

That's it for tonight folks, my beds calling..

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Sparky

That's it for tonight folks, my beds calling..

Do you really sleep Ian....or just lie there coming up with ideas :thumbs::thumbs: !

Mike.........

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dgjks6

This is possibly the best post ever!

I have no idea how you do it and the craftsmanship is awesome, and I am trying to follow along in the plans. I do have a question though, how are you going to turn it?

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chris11

Im glad you got that tap out . I wanted to send you that tool.now i want to send you the key way cutter. keep up that great work. #1 fan

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Duff

Im glad you got that tap out . I wanted to send you that tool.now i want to send you the key way cutter. keep up that great work. #1 fan

C'mon, Chris...fess up, buddy! You really want to jump on a plane and go see that creation in the metal and maybe lend a hand at fabbing - it's in your blood! Can't fool me - I've seen your work! :thumbs:

Duff :wh:

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chris11

Duff you got me bud. But if i go your coming with me. :thumbs:

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