What paint to use

[joebob 45]

hey guys this is from someome that does this for a living, it's not alway the paint line, it"s the guy puting it on ,seen great cheap paint jobs and realy bad high buck one's, spray cans have a purpose so do spray guns, it the app. not the paint, the biggest trick is know the flow of the product

[linen beige 14]

hey guys this is from someome that does this for a living, it's not alway the paint line, it"s the guy puting it on ,seen great cheap paint jobs and realy bad high buck one's, spray cans have a purpose so do spray guns, it the app. not the paint, the biggest trick is know the flow of the product

Couldn't have said it better myself, And keep a wet edge. A tool is only as good as it's user, and a lesson can be no better than it's learner.

I've also notice some confussion , or at least perceived confussion, over Toro's two different reds, so here I go again. Some call one Old Toro red and the other New Toro red. One of these is supposed to be Wheel Horse Red. It looks like some folks think Old Wheel Horse must mean Old Toro red. That is not the case. Old Toro red may also be marked as Apple red. That is correct for OLD TORO PRODUCTS. When Toro bought Wheel Horse they liked the Wheel Horse red better than their own so they switched to a close approximation of Wheel Horse red. Since Wheel Horse red was new to Toro, it became NEW TORO RED. had it been the other way around and they started painting new Wheel Horses with the apple red, then Wheel Horse red would be called OLD WHEEL HORSE RED. This info was provided to me from the TORO corporate office in 1996. They stressed that due to newer EPA restrictions on the chemicals that could be used in paints, that New Toro red was an approximation of Wheel Horse red but is not an exact match. These is also the issue of International red. It is also an approximation of Wheel Horse red ( or, more technically accurate Wheel Horse red is an approximation of IH red, which is copyrighted.), but is actually quiet darker or more maroon than Wheel Horse red. It has been reported that Wheel Horse wanted as close as possible a match (without infringing on a copyrighted shade) to International red. But the Interntional red they wanted to match is a couple of full shades lighter or brighter than what is widely known now as International red. Full line tractor restoration suppliers carry at least three different shades of International, or IH, or Case/IH red ( and at least three whites). The lighter shade, which was used on the Farmall's in the forties and fifties, is the shade that was being used at the time Wheel Horse wanted to match it. That would make it the more accurate match for the elusive Wheel Horse red. We hear a lot of jokes about the "orange" Wheel Horses, but the true original color can take on an orange hue when side by side with maroon. A critical look at the shade of the handfull of NOS machines that turned up in Indiana a while back should convince anyone that those machines were finished in a lighter red.

[Irv 115]

Hey guys, I was in Big Lots store a while back and noticed they had spray cans of Red Devil paint in white, black and "Stop sign red" which looked to me like a good match for wheel horse red. Well I picked up a few cans at $1.79 ea. and today I sprayed a deck and it turned out to be out pretty darn close, if not exact, to the original red. It went on pretty good, a couple light coats and then a little heavier coat. I don't know how it will hold up but red devil paint has been around a long time and as far as I know it's pretty good paint.

[kj4kicks 151]

Hi Irv, and

Keep us posted on how it holds up. Rattle can paint generally fades in a year or two, if it's outside much.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Have you guys ever heard of POR -15? I have used this before its a little pricey but it fills in Pits very well. Its a 4 step process and when useing the metal ready it takes the rust and deadens it with a zinc phosphate coating. The POR-15 is UV sensitive and requires a top coat of color to prevent the UV light from affecting the POR-15.

This stuff is very tough and you can kiss the rust goodbye. It bytes in tuff and wont let loose. If you get it on your hand and it drys you will wear it for 6-7 days. If you have some havy pitted metal this is the undercoat to use before the top coat is applied.

Cheers Duke

[linen beige 14]

Have you guys ever heard of POR -15? I have used this before its a little pricey but it fills in Pits very well. Its a 4 step process and when useing the metal ready it takes the rust and deadens it with a zinc phosphate coating. The POR-15 is UV sensitive and requires a top coat of color to prevent the UV light from affecting the POR-15.

This stuff is very tough and you can kiss the rust goodbye. It bytes in tuff and wont let loose. If you get it on your hand and it drys you will wear it for 6-7 days. If you have some havy pitted metal this is the undercoat to use before the top coat is applied.

Cheers Duke

This stuff has been around a long time. Just about it's only drawback is IT'S THICK!

Great for frame rails, transmission cases, etc, but not so good for body panels with thin edges. I don't know how well it resists heat.

[doomjr 0]

I don't Know much about the wheel horse paint but i tested out some official gravely paint and it has a lot of simularitys with the old paint. I sprayed it on a 1970 RAider 12 and it was a little rusted up but on the hoods inside it looked like gravely paint. Soo i spayed a little on the hatch where you out the trailer and other attachments. It looked so close as the first orginal wheel horse paint.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

Hi, Doomjr,

I'm glad you found us and please share with us your Wheel Horse stories and, of course, :whistle:

[HorseFixer 2,012]

This stuff has been around a long time. Just about it's only drawback is IT'S THICK!

Great for frame rails, transmission cases, etc, but not so good for body panels with thin edges. I don't know how well it resists heat.

Jim they make manafold paint that does a nice job, I agree its best for chasis type jobs and works good as a filler on pitted hoods but will requre a top coat.

Duke

[linen beige 14]

Jim they make manafold paint that does a nice job, I agree its best for chasis type jobs and works good as a filler on pitted hoods but will requre a top coat.

Duke

I've used the manifold paint, pretty good stuff. It's not quiet what you can get from Bill Hirsch, but it's good. I've not used the POR 15 myself, I prefer to REMOVE the rust and damaged metal, (hammer welding, brazing, and lead. Bondo's a dirty word.) but I've seen it on a LOT of auto restorations. You're right about the top coat, a lot of folks use the POR 15 as a rust stopping undercoat and finish with a color top coat. It does the job, but the thickness takes away some detail.

[LFDRET 19]

I just spayed a C-120 with paint from TSC. I used there Valspar Restoration Tractor paint color IH Red. I also used there hardner for a shinier paint also dryed 10 times faster with the hardner. I did have to reduce the paint alittle more then recommened. Over all the paint job looks great and I was really happy with it.

I am now putting this tractor back together and hopefuly it will be ready to sell after new decals arrive.

Paint 1 gal. 45.00

hardner 22.00

thinner 6.00

Could do up to 3 or 4 tractor. I poured the harner into baby food jars to have it last for use on next tractor (fill to the top to stop air witch make it last longer0.

Bill = LFDRET

[BadDad 1]

I did this with Krylon banner red. I put on primer 1st then four coats of paint a little at a time. 1 coat a day it has been over a 100 here every day I paint in the garage then let it set to dry, then wet sand with 2000 grit paper. I have never done anything like this before. It may not hold up but it looks a lot better than it did. I would like to try to use the paint gun some day.1100 special

[Teddy da Bear 11]

I do automobile restoration.

I could help anyone out who wants to know about painting.

[jerrell 1]

I try to use a spray gun on all my painting and have some verygood results, ( i have tried the spray can but can't get the results that i can from a gun) i use the equipment paint from TSC and if i want a dark color i use a red primer, if light color a gray primer, if aluminum(ms) i use a zinc cromate, but as several has pointed out preparation , sanding, is really important, if you have a dimple it's going to show up. i have painted two boat trailers and two tractors, and they came out really great. TSC also makes an equipment paint that can be sprayed (by gun) directly over rust, i did a garden dump trailer with this, it was really rusted bad on the inside of the bed , been there for 3 years now and is still good.. Just my 2 cents

[Brian1045 28]

My next Tractor I'll be using a touch up gun.

Sure you'll have to stop and re-fill it more, but a standard quart size gun created alot of waste. I'm pretty sure I wasted more than I want to know. Especially for the chassis, painting a skeleton always waste's more than painting a panel.

[Butch 194]

I just checked on parts I painted over 2 weeks ago with Valspar Restoration

rattle can paint. Still soft as ever. I have no idea how long it will take to harden up especially that the nights are colder and the parts are in the garage. I'm gonna

go to a gun for the rest of the job which I didn't intend to do. I don't wanna use a clear. I wanna use a 1 part urethane enamel like mentioned in these posts. Is the

Valspar Restoration paint with hardner any good? Is it a urethane paint? Will 2

quarts be enough to paint a 300 Series? I'd like to spend no more than $100 for the paint? What are my options? Any recommended brands?

Thanks

Butch

[oldandred 15]

I just checked on parts I painted over 2 weeks ago with Valspar Restoration

rattle can paint. Still soft as ever. I have no idea how long it will take to harden up especially that the nights are colder and the parts are in the garage. I'm gonna

go to a gun for the rest of the job which I didn't intend to do. I don't wanna use a clear. I wanna use a 1 part urethane enamel like mentioned in these posts. Is the

Valspar Restoration paint with hardner any good? Is it a urethane paint? Will 2

quarts be enough to paint a 300 Series? I'd like to spend no more than $100 for the paint? What are my options? Any recommended brands?

Thanks

Butch

Two qt, I only use less than one when painting with the gun and compressor and some of that is waste in cleaning up

Now I do thin it a little :hide:

[Butch 194]

My next Tractor I'll be using a touch up gun.

Sure you'll have to stop and re-fill it more, but a standard quart size gun created alot of waste. I'm pretty sure I wasted more than I want to know. Especially for the chassis, painting a skeleton always waste's more than painting a panel.

Brian I'm looking at touch up guns now but don't want to spend a lot, $20!!

I'm even considering trying my air brush gun. I'm done with the rattle cans so

I now have to get everything ready to paint at once. If I don't have good weather I'm using the garage.

[Duff 206]

I have had some luck with rattle cans giving a descent job. I have discovered that as you swing yer arm holding the can back and forth you must maintain the same distance from whatever your painting. My first hood paint job was messed up as my arm would be closer to the hood as it got in front of me and farther away as it swung to the edges of the hood. I also have better results if I hold it farther away than the can recommends and do a few coats. I also shake the can often during the paint process.

Mike....

Same as Mike says, except I'd add that as you sweep from side to side or end to end, make sure you've gone off the edge of the piece before releasing the spray button, and tip the can over every couple of passes in case any paint has started to build up at the base of the nozzle.

Duff :hide:

[HorseFixer 2,012]

I use Devilbiss HVLP Auto Paint & Touch-Up Spray Gun System like shown here.

Devilbiss HLVP Touch Up Gun

[Butch 194]

Anyone know the paint numbers for paint? I'm gonna order some from an online

automotive paint supply. They recommended acrylic urethane which is a single

stage paint and said it was more durable than the enamels. I can get the numbers

for cars but not tractors. I guess I'll use a urethane primer also.

Butch