What paint to use

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,114]

Ok, for my C-120 I want to start to get my supplies ready. I understand that International Harverster Red is the red to use, but do most of you use rattle can or air sprayers? Like everyone else I really want this to come out right, but I am not a good painter so ALL help is welcome. I have even thought of using a rattle can for small parts and sending the major parts to the body shop for painting. I really don't want to spend that kind of bucks though.

[perry 82]

i have been day dreaming and looking at paint guns for awile now. im no painter either. i dont have a clue where to begin, when to wet sand, and so on. i can do the mechanics but when it comes to body work i have no patience's.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

I have seen some pretty good rattle can paint jobs - and I've seen some bad ones. If you can, using a spray gun is the way to go. I'm no painter, nor do I play one on TV, so my advice isn't worth much. There is a lot of info over at www.weekendfreedommachines.org on painting and restoring lawn and garden tractors. The colors may be wrong for a WH, but if you spend some time in the Restoration and Repair Forums there, you should be able to pick up some good advice there.

WFM

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,114]

My talent really runs out when I try to paint. I have never even had good luck with the rattle cans. I do have a very good paint gun, maybe I'll give it a try, so much other things to take care of, haven't had a moment to even start this project.....

[Rollerman 290]

I have yet to try a paint gun & would like to.

But to date I've been useing Krylon Cherry Red or Valspar IH red.

Getting your parts prepped I think is the bigest task.

Scratches from sanding will come right through the paint.

I have stripped down 4/5 horses now for repaint & each one has came out nicer.

Some of the Wheel Horses at the shows "or other makes" I see are crazy nice...looks like the paint is still wet & a foot thick.

If you go the paint gun route....let me know how you mixed it...thats what confuses me the most at this point on guns.

Stephen in northern IN

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,422]

I have had some luck with rattle cans giving a descent job. I have discovered that as you swing yer arm holding the can back and forth you must maintain the same distance from whatever your painting. My first hood paint job was messed up as my arm would be closer to the hood as it got in front of me and farther away as it swung to the edges of the hood. I also have better results if I hold it farther away than the can recommends and do a few coats. I also shake the can often during the paint process.

Mike....

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,114]

I'm planning on ordering up some tires this week. I'm not going to mount them on old dirty rusty rims, so I'll tackle those with the spray can's. They're going to be that off white and shouldn't show too many of my mistakes. I'll take plenty of pictures!

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,422]

I use a few different sizes of wire wheels in a hand drill (with safety glasses!) to scuff up my rims. Always rip out the old valve stems! Really sucks to have to break down a new tire on a freshly painted rim to replace a valve stem and surely scrape up the new paint. Then I prime them since the wire wheels take it down to bare metal in some spots. Next is 2 or 3 coats of glossy enamal paint and you will have an almost new rim. I also wire wheel the inside of the rim some and give it a quick shot of primer. Install new valve stems and yer all set for cruise night .

Mike....

[Craig Arndt 6]

I used the TSC Restoration paint and rattle cans. The paint if you spray it is much stronger than the spray cans when hardner is added. Still needs about 30 days in 50+ or better weather to cure.

It remains soft for a couple weeks and I've now after a couple months have noticed its harder. After a week I used a towel to wipe a spot on the hood and the paint developed a scratch. So I wound up recoating and I didn't touch it. Just let it sit. So that is why they say not to wax for at least a month, the paint must be like concrete cures mostly in the first 3 or 4 days but then needs that extra time to set up.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

Hey, Mrwriggles2,

I would love to see you post some pictures here of your WH restore job that you were showing on mtf. I believe there may be some members here who aren't members over there.

[kj4kicks 151]

I did some research on the Valspar paints. Here's what they say:

Bring your antique and classic tractors and implements back to life with this top-of-the-line automotive quality enamel. Colors are formulated to match the manufacturers' colors of original equipment to restore and refinish your classics. This enamel is intended for spray application only, and slight variations may be experienced due to weathering of the original coating or occasional changes in manufacturers' standards.

Both the standard, and the "Restoration Series", are both still just old-school straight enamel paints.

Concerning the optional hardener:

Restoration Series Tractor & Implement Hardener may be added to the finish enamel to increase gloss and hardness while speeding up dry time. Use 1 part Hardener to 8 parts Finish enamel. Mix well initially and occasionally for the next 30 minutes to fully activate. After 8 hours mixture must be discarded.

Bolding is mine. Translate that to "It takes 30 minutes to activate BEFORE you can spray it."

I've used just about everything from lacquer (back in the day), to acrylic enamel, to basecoat/clearcoat. The 520 project was the first time that I used single stage urethane (no clear coat). I have to tell you, for the price, I am very happy with the way it performs. Lays down nice, and is able to be sanded in 3 days (same as basecoat/clearcoat method).

On to the guns: I recommend HVLP of course. First of all, it's better for the environment, because 2) more paint actually makes it to the metal. I only used a pint of mixed paint to coat the underside of the fenderpan and hood with 2 coats, and the top sides about 4 coats. Paint thickness is a lot greater than with a rattle-can, and will hold up alot longer. Don't be afraid of the gun! They clean up easily with lacquer thinner, and do not require alot of air to use. Most paints get applied with about 15-20 psi at the gun. The pot life of most paint is about 8 hours (the time you can store it in the gun). If you mess up the part, just wipe it down with thinner, dry it off, and shoot again !

Hope that this will clear up some of the dark mysteries of painting.

Bring on the shiney !

Eldon.

[kpinnc 10,648]

I use a paintgun too. A little more time needed to get ready to paint, and you've got to be careful, but what a difference!

I've been debating the cheaper "implement paint" from TSC. Comes in quart and gallon sizes with seperate hardner in International red for 8 DOLLARS A GALLON!

It is definately gonna get tried out on something. I know a couple folks who have tried it and like the results. We'll see!

Kevin

[kj4kicks 151]

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. Most enamels, especially the cheaper grades, may look ok when you first apply them, but will fade quickly. Usually within a year or so.

Good enamels may last 5-6 years.

Paint is like just about everything else. You get what you pay for.

Eldon.

[kpinnc 10,648]

I guess I have to dream a little. The last paint I bought set me back about $50 a quart. That hurts!

Kevin

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

Thanks, guys, for all the insight into painting. My brother-in-law paints cars, etc., and he painted my trailer for me a few years ago. Myself, I can't paint at all, or maybe, more appropriately, I never tried.

[CasualObserver 3,406]

I've heard very good things about this in some other bulletin boards. Folks say it lays down pretty nice and doesn't require as much finish work as the plain tractor paint, and there's also a hardener additive. You can check out the colors available and see other info here: Valspar Tractor Restoration It's available at pretty much anywhere you can get Valspar and/or tractor paint. We have it locally at TSC and Fleet Farm (or Farm & Fleet)

[kj4kicks 151]

The Valspar Restoration series is probably near the top in it's class, but it is still just a straight enamel. I wouldn't expect more than 5-6 years before it fades, with normal use. If you have a tractor that is stored indoors, and doesn't see much use, the lifespan may be a bit longer.

The biggest question would be:

If you go to the trouble of tearing a tractor completely apart, why not spend just a little more to get a longer lasting result? A gallon of Valspar and the hardener will set you back about $60 or so (at my local TSC). If you use a HVLP gun, 2 quarts of good paint is all you'll need. Two quarts of urethane paint, with hardener and reducer (optional), will cost you less then $100.

Just my $.02

Eldon.

[CasualObserver 3,406]

Good to know... for $40... it's right in that judgment call arena probably. My next door neighbor works in a body shop, and swears by the PPG Omni line of paint. Lower cost and pretty reliable. I haven't looked into it though. I don't paint... yet.

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

I am surprised no one has mentioned the Toro "New Red" paint. My understanding is Toro's new red is WH red.

They have rattle cans, but they also have paint for "professional use" with a sprayer.

I do maintenance and repair, not restoration myself, so I just do touch up or piecemeal as the case may be. Neither tractor has the original paint in any case.

One of these falls I want to paint my Dozer/plow. I'll do touch up on the plow and do the entire front of the blade.

By the way, I assume the wear bars can be flipped over?

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337]

I am surprised no one ha mentioned the Toro "New Red" paint. My understanding is Toro's new red is WH red.

Funny you should mentioned that. I've post an excerpt on a book from a CEO of Toro. In this excerpt, he mentions about the time Toro bought Wheel Horse and Wheel Horse's paint quality. I believe he said that Toro started to use WH's red over time. Here's the link again. Here's thin link again.

Book Excerpt

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,422]

Yep...wear bars can be flipped over.

Mike........

[glenn27 64]

I am surprised no one has mentioned the Toro "New Red" paint. My understanding is Toro's new red is WH red.

They have rattle cans, but they also have paint for "professional use" with a sprayer.

I do maintenance and repair, not restoration myself, so I just do touch up or piecemeal as the case may be. Neither tractor has the original paint in any case.

One of these falls I want to paint my Dozer/plow. I'll do touch up on the plow and do the entire front of the blade.

By the way, I assume the wear bars can be flipped over?

If you run across any Toro in the spray can--I believe the number is #681--I'll look tonight when I get home--that is the 'old stock' color-

--Toro's new red is a little brighter, and a different number.....

[TN CRAWLER 0]

I'M NOT A PAINTER, I JUST TRY. I HAVE FOUND OUT THAT P P G PAINT IS THE BEST FOR ME , THE PEOPLE AT THE SHOP THE BOYS WILL HELP YOU OUT DRYERS, HARDERS, SOLVENTS , MUCH BETTER THAN T S C PAINT HAVE FUN

RON, TN CRAWLER

[wesley 32]

Yes l have been thinking ahead for when l paint mine , and so will use international red and ford newholland white.

wes

[Kelly 1,028]

I'm with Eldon on this one, If your going to do a good job, and want it to last buy good paint. I use PPG, Dupont or R-M.

For my restorations I use basecoat clear. but that can get pricey I paid $90 a pint for the paint, but with some miss tined paint you can pick up at most suppy paint shops, have them tint alittle closer and use as a base, you can paint a whole tractor with a pint of color and a quart of clear.

One of the painters at our shop, painted his whole car chrome elusion $250 a pint and did it with a pint and a good gun, It looks good 3 years later.

I've used the TSC paint it's good cheap paint but you must use the hardner, but it still scrathes easy, compaired to real good paint. My 2 cents