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badbowtie

I want to build a puller...where do I start?

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Because of my budget and level of pulling "know how" I want to build a pulling tractor to compete in a "garden stock" class of some sort, basically and entry level puller. Being somewhat of a gearhead I think to win in pulling you need to have a hopped up race engine burning fuel that costs $10 a gallon, but I know thats not true in the entry level classes. So where does the competitive edge come from? Is it in weight & tire preasure? I dont want to cheat when it comes to the engine but I dont want to lose either. How much can you get away with doing on a stock engine? I read in some regs that resurfacing of the head was allowed but it didnt say how much, I mean to me that says I can hog .050 off if I want to. There were no regs on the compression ratio or bore size, only the crank, valves, flywheel, and carbeurator had to be OEM. On the other hand I dont want to bend the rules of one organazation and be totally illegal at another. So would a bone stock K321 with a fresh rebuild be enough to compete with (givin good tires with the proper psi and the correct weight combo)? I havent started building yet Im just gathering info before I start shopping around. Right now Im thinking about getting an older wheelhorse probably early to mid 70s B-series, C-series, Raider, or Charger and putting a freshly rebuilt 14 hp Kohler in it with an 8 speed trans. I am a fabricator with a little machining know how so I can make any combination work. I just dont know what that right combination is yet. I am a big fan of "options" the tractor will be completely diverse as far a weights, weight placement, hitch height, etc. and so that is why I think the 8 speed is the way to go, it gives me plenty of gearing options. Im I thinking about this right?

It doesnt matter if I win as long as I have fun.....bu!!$h!+, I want to win!! I want to beat the guy thats cheating without cheating myself.

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sounds like to me the only thing you want to do is win well good luck its not so mush in the ntractor its how to read the track.

any way like I said good luck

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Your right about reading the track and I know it takes experience and luck to win, but that doesnt answer any of my questions. If Im going to spend a bunch of money on a hobby I want to win. I dont think it would be any fun even for the spectators if there wasnt a level of competition. Can you imagine how boring it would be to go watch a tractor pull where everyone there was just there to have fun and not to win. I dont know anyone in any sport that doesnt want to win. If your a fisherman you want to catch fish, if your a hunter you want to bag game, if you play horseshoes you want to get the most ringers, if you play football...well you need to find a real sport, if your into racing you want to be the fastest, if your into tractor pulling you want to get the furthest down the track. See how that works? If its not about winning then Ill save my money to buy more duck decoys. On the other hand It wouldnt be as much fun going out and kicking everybodies butt as it would be to get beat once or twice and head back to the garage to do some more tweeking. It would be like going hunting and hitting every duck you shoot at, if you dont miss once or twice your friends wouldnt have anything to pick on you about and visa versa.

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i pull a sears GT-18. i know not a horse but still i use it to pull and this year i am useing my old jacobsen.

one thing to do is either add a stronger spring to your clutch arm so it pulls the belt in tighter to the pullies meaning less belt slip under load. slightly softer tires for side wall flexing is a plus and to be honest i use regular pump gas.

of course i havent won yet or even come close to the BIG boys but the compatition and just makeing the attempt to pull a big honking sled loaded with weight is enough for me.

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For starters, you need to do what you say you already doing. Read up on the rules for where you will be pulling. My idea of a "stock" garden tractor class is just that - STOCK! But hardly anyone abides by them rules anymore. Which you will find out when you start pulling. Kinda why I moved out of the stock class and into the open super stock. But that has its own headaches. Go and watch some pulls. Get to know the guys there and ask alot of questions. Some guys will answer you and some wont. Some may even feed you a line $%!&. I would use a long frame 8-speed tractor. As long as it has the 8-pinion rear. Do not use the 10-pinion rear from the late 60's to early 70's. They will not hold up very long. Which I found out the hard way. :thumbs2:

Build your tractor and start pulling. After a few pulls you will start to see what you need to as far as the setup of weight placement. Just build it so that anything on the tractor can be changed. I redisgned the hitch and weight brackets and the placement of the weights on my tractor several times before I was happy with it.

As far as the tires, which you didnt say what size you are limited to. But most are 23x10.5. Use a Carlise super lug 4ply tire. You will have to play with the tire pressures for different types of tracks. I mainly ran between 4-6 psi. You gonna find out you want to run in 2nd or 3rd high depending on the tracks. Also if you really want to get serious, play with pulley sizes on the engine and trans. This is where a big difference will be scene. One advantage the Cubs have in the stock class is all the aftermarket gears that are available to them for in the trans. They are gonna give ya a fit but they can be beat.

Your k321 with a rebuild should be able to hold its own. I pulled with a stock 12hp for 2 years in my Raider and it snuck in there for a few wins.

To give you some ideas, check out www.easterngardentractorpulling.comThere is a ton of links to different sites with alot of info. If you have any specific questions just ask. I'll help ya out as much as possible.

Good luck with your puller :thumbs:

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Just tonight I found a tractor its an older WH with the 8 speed HI-LO trans and no motor. The same guy also had a cub cadet that was in real bad shape but he swore the engine and trans were good its only a 12hp which I was thinking was kind of small but If they can hold their own thats good enough for me for starters. By the way the guy only wanted $225 for everything. Sounds good to me!

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