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Found 15 results

  1. Hi, I am new here although Ive had a Kawasaki powered 212 for around 20 years, its seen others come and go! I recently bought a 416 -8, the deck and onan are good but the pto has been a bit abused Id be lucky to also find a good enough driven clutch plate to warrant using s/hand but live in hope eh So, if anyone has the twin pulley set in good nick, and the little brake pad maybe?? I look forward to hearing from you Thanks in advance Andy
  2. Wanted PTO Clutch disk for 312-8

    Wanted pto clutch disk plate for 312-8 new or used Thanks
  3. Hi, I have a 1984 GT-1100 Work Horse (Model A1-11B801). The Thrust Bearing on the engine (B&S 11HP) has went bad and is no longer available from Toro. Does anyone have suggestions as to where I can source a new bearing? Possibly a generic bearing part number or a compatible bearing from another model Wheel Horse? Also the failure caused the keyway in the engine shaft to wear. Has anyone had success with repairing this type of damage with Loctite 660 or similar? Enjoy the attached pictures. Thanks
  4. Electric PTO Clutch 1993 244H

    Hi all, Looking for an Electric PTO clutch (complete) for my 1993 (I think) 244H. Onan Vertical shaft, E 140 V Call, text, PM or email. 239 699 6173
  5. Had a few questions on the PTO clutch. Just got a new clutch facing for my Raider 12 and am trying to get it install properly and am running into some minor (I hope) issues. 1) It looks like there is a c - clip that is used on the pto sleeve (pic 1 and 3). I didn't see one in the manual but didn't know if one should be there or not to hold the clutch plate from moving to far when installed? 2) The transmission belt guard does not sit flush with the frame anymore like I believe it should. It has been welded (pic 2) at least once to try and make sure it stays as close as possible but it is not completely flush. Is this critical for operation of the PTO? 3) Because of this the rivets hit the belt guard when mounted. I was thinking about putting washers as a spacer to give the pto plate space from belt guard. Would this be a problem or should this work? Any other thoughts or suggestions. Thank you.
  6. Hey guys, so the other day I got one of those infrared "contactless" thermometer the other day as an amazon deal of the day. Tonight I mowed my lawn and when I pulled the tractor back in the garage I decided to shoot the thermometer at various parts of the tractor and I noticed the PTO clutch seemed to be much hotter than normal. It read as high as 190F, that seems a little hot to me. Is it normal for them to get this hot or am I looking at a failure of the clutch?
  7. Hi Everyone. I recently rebuilt the pto clutch on my 1976 C-120 and figured id post some pictures and part numbers to save other time who are doing the same. I have the 6.75" OD clutch plate and didn't want to spend the money to get a new one from Toro so i ended up doing some research and re-lined it myself. I wasn't sure on the material so i took some measurements it looks like the originals are .125" thick stock. Clutch Material: McMaster #60895K11 http://www.mcmaster.com/#60895k11/=11rane8 It comes in a 7.5 x 7.5" square so you also have enough to re-line your brake like i did. I found the easiest way to cut it was to trace the OD of the old clutch plate and for the id i found a 4" angle grinder blade was the right diameter. I used a set of snips to trim the OD and a jigsaw to do the ID and seamed to work well. Extra material: Thin jigsaw blade i used: Final product: Now i also increased the contact area versus the original. The old one only contacted about an inch in width this one i had full contact on the bell of the pulley. My pulley was scored so i face it clean on the lather removing only the minimum need to get a full clean. YOu can chuck the narrow end of the bell on the pulley, just make sure the face is true (axial run-out <.005") I now have 2" of width on contact, it should work much better now. I prepped my old clutch backing plate by removing the old work clutch and the worn out broken rivets. Using a die grinder with an abrasive wheel works good. I then used a rougher disk to make little rough grooves in the face to make sure the clutch adheres better with the epoxy. Note the old contact area. Once the backing plate is cleaned use air and carb cleaner to thoroughly clean the new clutch material and the backing plate. Now i used Loctite 380 Instant Adhesive. We use this at work for similar materials on clutches and brakes. its oil heat and impact resistant and is literally the strongest fastest drying adhesive i've ever used it really works wonders. It cleans up with carb cleaner (even on your hands) t available the cheapest from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-135423-Toughened-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B000132VEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459388480&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+380 A zigzag pattern gives the best coverage to ensure it contacts and sticks evenly. Now make sure you just stick the clutch onto the backing plate and not the pulley I used the pulley as a plate to clamp the new lining onto the plate with the help of 3 clamps and left it there overnight. Just make sure the pulley is up so any drips don't stick the pulley to the other half. Now you can use those leftover pieces to also re-line the brake: same idea and process here... Since i had the whole thing apart anyways i decided to replace the bearings, they are a fortune from Toro and some aftermarket ones just didn't seem to be of high enough quality. I ended up finding a package deal on the originals on ebay so i figure did post the OEM bearing specs so you can find them yourselves locally or online its easier knowing the bearing manufacturers number than a Toro number. Ball Bearing (on the end taking the PTO thrust): Fafnir P204RR6 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Fafnir-P204RR6-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00FAY909S Needle Bearing (on the inside of pulley holding the radial load): Torrington J-2420 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Koyo-Bearingd-8600rpm-Maximum-Rotational/dp/B007EDPF4C Grease Seal: CR 14810 (Chicago Rawhide) Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/SKF-14810-Small-Style-Diameter/dp/B00CLIVXNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1459389503&sr=8-3&keywords=CR+14810 Locally here in RI/MA i always use Eastern Bearings in Prov, RI to get all my bearings and seals they have reat pricing and can get you anything you need but you can also find them online at many places. Just be careful the letters on the ends usually mean different seal types so make sure you look into the whole part number. Hope this helps! Good Luck! if you have any questions ill try to help.
  8. Does anyone have a pic or drawing of the back of clutch plate 102908. The clutch self destructed before I bought the tractor and I suspect this part was damaged but the manual only shows front view. Thanks
  9. I need a PTO for operating the underbelly mower deck of a 1966 Wheel Horse 856. Anybody got a part number or ideas? Also, anybody got any idea how you could take the welded on sprocket on the end of the auger off and replace it? mine is worn out and don't turn the auger anymore. Thanks in advance, Alex
  10. D-160, 180 and 200. Not the D-250s. I should be doing other things but I'm looking at two Ds. I'm wondering how to value and compare them, not just by condition, age or HP but with or without options like 3-point, front and rear PTOs. I don't see enough of them to get a good grip on the options. How much more is a D with 3-point worth than without. How hard is it to find just the 3-point? Same with the PTOs? I'm not sure I have ever seen the PTOs for sale alone! So far I've never owned or even ridden one and I think that needs to be corrected before I die!
  11. When I got my GT 14 the electric PTO was toast. I had parts from another tractor to use so went the mechanical route. With an OEM lever and custom linkage.
  12. Finally finished the chicken plucker implement. Okay, it ain't purdy, but it's going to be put to use tomorrow. Will take video of it in action. It's a bit on the heavy side, but it attaches in two parts. The primary frame attaches to the tach-a-matic. The secondary frame slides from left to right into a receiver on the primary frame. The secondary belt is installed at this point, the secondary frame is then slid left to take up the slack in the belt. A hand knob on the bottom is tightened to secure the secondary frame and secondary belt. The primary belt is the tiller belt, repurposed, threaded from pto to the mule drive to the 10" pulley on the primary frame. The secondary belt further reduces the rpm 5:1. I designed the gear reduction to be approximately 12:1. For the C-125, that should result in variable speed of the feather plate between about 175 to 280 rpm. I put a photo tach to it and got a reading of about 100 rpm at idle. At WOT it was about 275 rpm. Low end was out of line. Either the engine is idling too slow or I've got some slippage. I'll have to check it more thoroughly as the numbers were jumping around quite a bit. I may not have had the best conditions for accurate measurement. Anyway... here it is! After I use it tomorrow, maybe I'll knock off some of that rust and give it a paint job. Or, maybe I'll just start the next project!
  13. Hi again all, I was using my D160 to till some hard packed earth (first till) and it was working OK, not great, just OK. First pass, was about an inch and a half, two inches at max. The tiller would work, then stall and I'd have to lift the hydro to get it spinning again. I did this a few times then the engine stalled and the starter would not strike. The lights still worked and I could hear the elec PTO clutch 'click' when I threw the switch on/off. I thought maybe I smoked the ignition switch, but I went out the next day and it fired right up. I tried tilling a little more and same thing happened. What am I doing wrong? Is there a thermal protection ckt or something that's causing this? How can I till w/o overloading it? I've read in my 520H manual that you need to run the engine at full throttle otherwise you risk damaging the trans. I assume that's true for the D160 as well? When tilling at full throttle the tiller is really crankin'. So ideally I could run the engine at about 1/2-2/3 throttle in order to slow down the tiller. Looking forward to the group's thoughts, feedback, opinions, advice so that I can till my plot! Thanks in advance, Jeff
  14. Hello, I don't know if this is the correct forum but I am having trouble with the pto on a b-165. It won't disengage. I have adjusted it according to the manual with no luck. There appears to be a small oil hole on the outside and squirting oil in that helped for a while. This is the only vertical shaft machine I have so I am not really familiar with them. I can tap the lower part of the pulley with a brass hammer and it will release but once I engage it, it is stuck until I do that again. I would not mind taking it apart but I would be working on my back underneath and so would like to know anything I can about them before I try that. Would appreciate anything you can tell me.
  15. I became a little curious when researching the PTO RPMs of older Wheel Horse, John Deere and Cub Cadets. I read that "Woods Equipment" fabricated the Wheel Horse D finishing mowers back in the 70's and maybe the 80's and these mowers were belt driven, and I'm guessing had large pulley that appeared to reduce the 2000 RPM to a more manageable/safe speed. Mike Duwe from other forum (weekendfreedommachines.com) discovered that John Deere and Cub Cadet also had REAR PTOs with 2000 RPMs similar to the D Series Wheel Horses. Because of this, is it possible the John Deere 260 Finishing Mower and the Cub Cadet L42 Model 349 would fit the D Series Wheel Horse? I'm not sure of the rotation direction, spline and diameter differences between Wheel Horse and John Deere are, but this would make finding a D Series finishing mower slightly easier. Woods Wheel Horse John Deere Cub Cadet Citations: http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/335/232953.html?1205075077 http://www.woodsequipment.com/default.aspx Other Links: http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/335/139036.html