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Found 5 results

  1. Ok - the UL-1 batteries won't cut it for turning over the big cast iron Kohler twins - got one that is only 6mo old and it's basically shot already . One start cycle and if it doesn't fire it's done - needs to be jumped . Since it's mounted above the Sundstrand pump and so close to that thumper engine I'd assume the vibration is just killing the plates . At a rate of 2 batteries per year - that doesn't work out very well and the rotating mass of that engine just draws far too much from the battery - even with a new starter . From the BCI group number chart and some dimensions of what can fit in the tractor physically I come up with a Group 26 battery - what is everyone using in their twin cylinder D's ?? I see an equivalent Deka runs about $80 - anyone tried that size on one of these D's ...? Sarge
  2. I was cleaning some oil residue from an earlier dumb move - I try to keep things clean so any leaks that spring up show easily . I noticed along the top of the block towards the center from the right cylinder's valve cover a cast marking , cleaned it off and found this - The casting mark clearly shows K532 . Now , is this a case like the single cylinder blocks that were stamped "301" but you had to check internally whether it was a 10hp or 12hp engine ? K241 & K301 blocks are stamped the same and that is common knowledge . But , what about the K482/K532/K662 twin opposed cast iron engines , same deal ?? Any insight on the blocks or anyone know for sure ? Or - did someone swap out the original K482 from this '74 D180 to a K532 20hp from a donor ?? Some of the tins seem to be completely black to the bare metal , while others are clearly red underneath the black - so some painting has been done and this tractor it has at best a sketchy history . At one time it lived at the welding shop next to me to the West , or at least for a short time . The folks I got it from are about 40 miles away in a rural area and the gal that sold it had told me her father had gotten it from the town where I live - from the local welder . His son that now owns/runs the shop doesn't remember it but it may have belonged to his Dad who started the business - but he does say he knows his Dad never bought a new Wheel Horse , he'd only owned a Cub or two that he remembered . Anyway , hard telling on it's history and a lot of mods/repairs have been done in the machine's lifetime . I'm just curious if this is the original engine/block - the tins are marked as a K482 / spec 35222b as it should be to match the '74 model year in the published model year reference list . The model tag was long gone off the tractor when I got it , the year came from figuring out the sum of it's parts as to the model and such . Maybe that casting mark explains why this engine feels so strong , there is a noticeable difference between the 482 and 532 engines before from when we used them in other industrial equipment such as Ditch Witch , ect . The 20hp version just had a lot more torque and grunt compared to the 18hp . The K662 is insanely powerful and quite underrated - I ran one of those years ago on a compactor with a gear drive transport feature - that engine is a whole different animal compared to the 18 & 20 versions . Sarge
  3. Rear closure plate K482, K532 or a K582

    Looking for a rear closure plate K482, K532 or a K582. Numbers on front 48 499 01.
  4. AUTO 18. KOHLER BROKEN FLY WHEEL, Help!

    Hi Gents!, Re: 1973 Kohler engine Serial# 4375937 MODEL#. K482S SPEC # 352096 I just did the bonehead move of the decade. I dropped a wrench while the engine was running and it proceeded to break all the fins off my flywheel. So now that you all got a good laugh... as did I ( a sad laugh!) which flywheel do I get? I see there is model k482, K532 etc... Which one fits my 1973 Auto18? Thank for your guidance Jack
  5. 18 Auto starts then quits

    So after using our 18 auto last week and it running fine we headed down to the cabin this week and wanted to fine tune the PTO adjustment... thats when the fun started This week the tractor would start, w/ choke, and run for 10 seconds or so then die.... until it died it sounded fine then just putter out... tried it without choke and that had no effect... some of the stuff we have done : We rebuilt the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago... its the original fuel pump... we replaced all the fuel lines and the fuel filter at the same time. The gas tank is also original... We installed a new coil (the old one was leaking fluid but seemed to work) and re-gapped the points last week as well.. after scratching our heads we pulled the carb and cleaned it and adjusted the idle and main jets back to factory specs... the idle jet was set to 2 1/2 turns and the main jet was set to 4 1/4 turns before we set the idle to 1 1/4 and main to 2 turns... that might explain why the plugs were so black when we pulled them... I check the compression on both cylinders and they were both around 95 - 100 psi... Cleaning and adjusting the carb had no effect... it would still fire run for 10 seconds then quit... So here are my thoughts... even with the fuel pump rebuild its not putting out enough pressure... I hooked up a mityvac to the fuel line and did not see much pressure...not the 4 PSI I think is needed... more like just 1 or 2 PSI... I also hooked the mityvac up to the crank case vacuum line and saw a strong pulsing... The original gas tank is a bit rusty... I'm not sure if there is a filter in the gas tank that might not be allowing fuel to flow fast enough... I'm thinking if replacing the fuel pump with an electric one... it might not be the problem but I figure it shouldn't hurt I'm also thinking of pulling the gas tank and replacing it with a boat gas tank until I can clean and seal the current one... I'm thinking (doing way to much thinking ) that these will help but I want to hear others opinions... to me it seems like a fuel delivery problem... do others think this might be the case? if anyone has switched to an electric fuel pump I'd like to know which one... really any help would be appreciated thanks in advance...
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