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Found 7 results

  1. Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering. This may also explain the oddball rim. Bottom race. Or is it races now? -----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!---------------------------------------- So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close. Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off. Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly. The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup. Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down. Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new. The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one. End view with bearing installed. To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side. It's only .030 so not to bad. Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm. Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered. No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out. End cap with both bearings installed. Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit. The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm. The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual. I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it. I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway. Welp, back to painting parts.......
  2. I've been looking for a while. The bolt holes just line up and the wire is a little tight between the fender and light. No drilling though. They were at Rural King. I think about three bucks each. Optronics MC42RS RED Marker/Clearance.
  3. WHEEL HORSE PACKAGE DEAL

    NO CALLS BEFORE 2:30pm est ON WEEK DAYS PLEASE I have for sale a D160 and 520H. the d160 runs and drives i can send you a video of it doing so. the 520h had water in the motor and it does not turn over all of the way , the carb is junk and the coil is missing. they both have decks and i have the grill to the d160 I NEED THESE GONE ASAP I AM RUNNING OUT OF ROOM. i will take some of the price off for: B80 gas tank Suburban hood,gas tank, steering wheel w/ colum, fenders (seat pan?), belt guard. Text me anytime for pics or video.
  4. NOS "D" series muffler

    NOS D series muffler that my Father-in-law bought for his D200 many moons ago. Price is negotiable. Pay the asking price and shipping is covered, If not add $20 your offer for shipping and handling. If you e-mail me please put Muffler somewhere in the subject line. First offer of full asking price gets it, over lower offers except one caveat; I would like to see it go to someone who is restoring their D and not to someone who will just throw it on their beater to get the spring plowing and tilling done.
  5. Hi guys. New to the forum and really want a small garden tractor with loader. I came across this D160 but am hesitant to get into something that will be a headache. It does not have the 3 pt hitch or rear PTO. I know it need a cylinder repacked as the loader drifts down a little he said. He's offering it to me with the plow and some spare parts for $2100. Is this a good deal? Anything i should know before looking at it? May go pick it up tomorrow. https://nh.craigslist.org/grd/5548998155.html
  6. Need Side Tin Engine Covers For D180

    I'm looking for some side tin covers that cover the heads on the Kohler engine for my D180. If you have some let me know. Thanks!
  7. Hi again all, I was using my D160 to till some hard packed earth (first till) and it was working OK, not great, just OK. First pass, was about an inch and a half, two inches at max. The tiller would work, then stall and I'd have to lift the hydro to get it spinning again. I did this a few times then the engine stalled and the starter would not strike. The lights still worked and I could hear the elec PTO clutch 'click' when I threw the switch on/off. I thought maybe I smoked the ignition switch, but I went out the next day and it fired right up. I tried tilling a little more and same thing happened. What am I doing wrong? Is there a thermal protection ckt or something that's causing this? How can I till w/o overloading it? I've read in my 520H manual that you need to run the engine at full throttle otherwise you risk damaging the trans. I assume that's true for the D160 as well? When tilling at full throttle the tiller is really crankin'. So ideally I could run the engine at about 1/2-2/3 throttle in order to slow down the tiller. Looking forward to the group's thoughts, feedback, opinions, advice so that I can till my plot! Thanks in advance, Jeff
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