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Found 9 results

  1. 1973 18 Automatic For Sale

    1973 18 Automatic for sale. Was restored in mid 90’s by local Toro dealer for previous owner, he then sold to me and was used regularly to mow for about 15 years. Since 2013 it has seen little use. Needs battery, will start and run with a boost. Has original 48” mower deck and 48” plow/dozer blade. Also has 48” snowblower in working condition. Also have single blade furrow plow that works great with the three point hitch. The tractor only has the front PTO but it works great. Hydraulics system works great. Lights work as shown in video. About the yellow fuel tank. Once they started adding ethanol to the fuel the 30 year old tank started to have issues clogging the screen. I replaced the stock tank with the yellow one. I still have the original and it likely can be cleaned and reinstalled since the tractor was NOT modified for the yellow tank. Asking $2500 for everything. Located in Morris, CT (north and west of Waterbury CT) DFE0A1CF-DE18-42B1-87CC-2D8E882A949C.MOV
  2. Does anybody have a good source for replacement front wheel bearings for a mid to late 1970's D160 wheel horse tractor? There are two push in bearing units (inner and outer) per wheel. I first attempted to replace with standard bearings but quickly found out these are not standard sizes. It's been a while since I check and I don't completely remember, but I think the wheelhorse bearings where something like 1/16" of an inch larger OD than a standard catalog bearing. At the time, I remember finding bearings but they wanted somthing like $100 for each bearing. I was able to located two bearings and did purchase them for a reasonible price, but am still looking for two for completing the set. The part numbe ron the two that I was able to locate is 104396. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate. Thanks Marc
  3. Fast question ... Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here... The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ? Sarge
  4. I've ran into a clearance issue on the D180's rear hydraulic hose at the rear of the lift cylinder for the 3pt. The link that joins the cylinder piston to the main arm on the 3pt rock shaft uses 3 holes and a welded plate between the two side sections. That plate allows the cylinder to push against the rock shaft's arm and move it rearward, but - the lower end of that plate hits the cylinder hose's 90* fitting when the lift is lowered all the way . The link only goes one way with the plate joining the two sides facing more downward than up - it's offset from being centered a bit. The 3 holes in the link allow the rear 3pt to float, if you pin the center hole it locks it solid and allows for down pressure to the 3pt lift. Simple enough design, but not sure why it wants to hit the cylinder hose's end fitting - it's wrecked the swivel on the hose and caused a bad leak. I got a new hose from Lowell, but the modern replacement hose ends are taller than the original ones from WH, so it interferes with the 90* fitting even worse - see the photo and the mark where it needs to be cut out for clearance ..couldn't get a pic of it on the tractor - that seat frame is seriously in the way of these parts. Another not so fun part to work on a D due to it's frame design...ugh. The marked area is where it it hits that 90* fitting, badly. Aftermarket ends, as I said are even worse as they are a little taller - generally around 1/4" difference. I suspect WH specified aircraft rated low clearance fittings on many of their hydraulic hoses - it's not the first time I've ran into clearance issues , especially on the older models when replacing them with new hoses. Not sure if there is a new hose from Toro available - but it has an interference anyway with the linkage... Has anyone else with a D ran into this issue with clearance to the link - or was this welded incorrectly from the factory somehow ? Second thing - it seems many of the older models that used any hard steel lines used SAE 45* flare ends. Newer equipment uses the more common aircraft JIC 37* high pressure flare instead - it seats easier and can better handle the pressure. Are the steel lines on mine correct, or has someone changed them ? Ends appear to be common 5/16" SAE flares on these steel lines, it's tough to adapt modern hydraulic lines to them versus using JIC flare ends. I think even the S bend twin steel lines that go into the implement ports on the pump are the same size fittings and same SAE type versus JIS. I do remember that being odd when I had the pump out for it's repairs and all those parts looked original. A lot has been screwed with on this tractor over it's lifetime, common to see but I'm not sure just how far they went with some areas, I want to keep it correct. The old line sealed fine to the SAE hard line end below the seat - it's a 700psi system so it's fine, really. Other than the leak - the 3pt lift is super strong and had no issues other than not wanting to stay up for long due to the 90* fitting puking oil... Sarge
  5. Since I've finally got some time with this D and not puking oil all over itself it's time to address a few small issues . Biggest one right now is how that blade engages the ground - it always wants to sit a few inches lower on the right side and always puts more force on that side as well . When I rebuilt the frame I made certain it was squared and flat to the head part and the blade - it still measures out perfectly with the rear mount and the blade's cutting edge staying on the same plane . But , trying to do light grading work and leveling material it always wants to cut more on that right side - I suspect part of this is the weight of that handle , the solid steel cross shafts and sub frame for the whole assembly . With those parts previously cut loose I was quite surprised at just how heavy that stuff was - probably close to 35lbs of steel . With that weight hanging off one side of the frame I suspect that's the root cause of the issue - anyone got an opinion on this or ran across the same issue ? I've considered either adding weight to the left side of the blade or maybe add a spring to the frame to help correct it - what have others done or am I by myself on this , lol ?? Sarge
  6. Ok - the UL-1 batteries won't cut it for turning over the big cast iron Kohler twins - got one that is only 6mo old and it's basically shot already . One start cycle and if it doesn't fire it's done - needs to be jumped . Since it's mounted above the Sundstrand pump and so close to that thumper engine I'd assume the vibration is just killing the plates . At a rate of 2 batteries per year - that doesn't work out very well and the rotating mass of that engine just draws far too much from the battery - even with a new starter . From the BCI group number chart and some dimensions of what can fit in the tractor physically I come up with a Group 26 battery - what is everyone using in their twin cylinder D's ?? I see an equivalent Deka runs about $80 - anyone tried that size on one of these D's ...? Sarge
  7. What started out as a simple task of moving my 6-1/2' x 12' utility trailer to unload it's contents back into the Shed Repair Project after building a new floor turned out to be a really bad day . I figured the weight of the trailer and it's load was probably around 2,500lbs or more and the big D-180 should be able to handle it . Used the 3pt hitch and an adapter to lift the trailer tongue and off I went...until I got to the end of the north drive and the pump coupling on the hydro failed - badly . In hindsight - the trailer probably weighed closer to 4,000lbs the way it felt behind the truck ... Now , the trailer had to be taken off the tractor and put on it's jack ....which didn't work out too well loaded that heavily . Since the trailer was built with 2x3 angle iron on the tongue it decided to fold itself into a pretzel - despite the wheels being blocked tight so it couldn't move . It fell over and I had to use the HI-Lift to get it off the ground . The sight of the trailer falling over in the rear view camera on the Dodge is still well embedded in my memory - I knew that was going to be another large project . The coupling had an earlier repair from last winter's failure - so a pto pin was driven through the hole to get it out back to my work area to be fixed later . It made the short trip , but just barely and the tow valve was frozen tightly . As it turned out , the damage to the D was a much bigger issue..and cost 3 times as much in total . The pic doesn't do the damage any justice - that entire tongue was bent badly - Sand blasted , new tongue built and waiting for paint - Painted , as it sits now awaiting the lights , wiring and re-install the floor decking . All the while - got more work done on the D's pump problem . Found a great used pump , as well as a spare coupling in good shape . After a lot of machine work ($$$) we came up with a solution and everything was back together... After all this I found that both the original mufflers were completely shot and falling apart - so another project ... Bought a pair of 180* mandrel bends , two cone transitions and a pair of @jimkemp 8" mufflers (very nice, btw) . Fabricated the flanges for the engine's exhaust ports , as well as the pipes for the stacks - Spent a lot of time rolling the engine over on the starter to slowly prime the pump back up and finally , after several months - fired Big Ugly to test the exhaust before painting the stacks . No leaks from the hydro thanks to some new o-rings and backer rings from @pfrederi on the hydro manifold , that was a big relief . A bit shocked at the sound of the big opposed twin - somewhat like a Harley running on the choke or something - but overall not obnoxious or too loud .... D180 startup.mp4 If you don't want to wait for the MP4 to load - here's the YouTube link - I don't think the camera's microphone will show the sound too well , but so far I like it . Took a ride around the block , nice having this beast back up and running , finally . Now to finish that dumb trailer....pretty much wasted nearly the whole summer getting all of this done plus the hours at work . I'm about ready for a break but need to get ready for winter . Sarge
  8. Got the coupling modified , keyway cut , new spline piece from a later model C welded into it and running into a misalignment issue . Seems like the engine is 1/2" too far forward ?? I need this thing tight to the front pump mount so it's got as much of the splines engaged as possible and utilizes the 3/16" wide key to take the abuse I had machined into the pump shaft (that hurt, btw) . I set the coupling within .030" of the bracket , which is where it sat before although previously someone stacked a whole lot of washers between the coupling and the engine's flywheel . Is the rubber puck perhaps backwards , somehow ?? You can see just how far it's pulling on the rubber section , bowing out the two sides attached to the engine's flywheel . Looking closely , the black allen socket set screw holds the key in place tightly - and I mean TIGHT . I want zero movement against those splines - in my opinion that is why these things wear out too easily . b I seem to remember there are two raised portions on the rubber ring - on each side of it and there is a difference , perhaps it's the wrong direction ? Any insights - bring 'em on - it's an odd 92* day here in September and I'm sure we'll pay for it next week ...ugh . Sarge
  9. 1974 D-200 Starter Replacement

    Can anyone help me figure out how I can get a replacement (new) starter for a 1974 D200? I'm not sure how I cross-reference from an old part number to a new replacement (if there is one). Thanks in advance for any guidance. Chris
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