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Found 6 results

  1. Got the coupling modified , keyway cut , new spline piece from a later model C welded into it and running into a misalignment issue . Seems like the engine is 1/2" too far forward ?? I need this thing tight to the front pump mount so it's got as much of the splines engaged as possible and utilizes the 3/16" wide key to take the abuse I had machined into the pump shaft (that hurt, btw) . I set the coupling within .030" of the bracket , which is where it sat before although previously someone stacked a whole lot of washers between the coupling and the engine's flywheel . Is the rubber puck perhaps backwards , somehow ?? You can see just how far it's pulling on the rubber section , bowing out the two sides attached to the engine's flywheel . Looking closely , the black allen socket set screw holds the key in place tightly - and I mean TIGHT . I want zero movement against those splines - in my opinion that is why these things wear out too easily . b I seem to remember there are two raised portions on the rubber ring - on each side of it and there is a difference , perhaps it's the wrong direction ? Any insights - bring 'em on - it's an odd 92* day here in September and I'm sure we'll pay for it next week ...ugh . Sarge
  2. D160 part out

    Text me anytime my phone doesn't ring so if i dont answer leave a message and ill get back to you. I have everything except steering wheel, front axel and wheels, seat, engine,3pt hitch and rear pto. This was a single cylinder 16hp kohler. I have the clutch assembly, hood, grill, grill housing, rear end (it leaks believe it just needs to be sealed again), gas tank ( has a slight leak very sure it can be patched),mule drive, hydrolic controls, mid lift, attach-amatics, dash board with controls and ignition, steering shaft and afew other things. Text me any time after 8 am and before 10 pm. This was a running, driving tractor a month ago rear end has been gone through was told it works rolled it around the garage it seems fine has some fluid and new filter. I would like to keep the rear wheels if possible. It has brand new tires on the back i will be swapping for different style tires when i swap them i will gladly sell the tires. Text me for pics. Still working on pricing as i just got it all apart. Attach-amatics-$15 ech or $20 for both grill-$15 grill housing w/ lights- $25 hood-$20 rear end- $100 steering shaft w/ whats left of linkage-$40 mid lift- $30 hydrolic contols- $30 clutch assembly- $70 gas tank-$30 dash-$30 these prices do not include shipping. will trade all thats left for a c160. Theres a few more items not listed
  3. Ok , been asked a lot of questions about how I rebuild front axles - unless they are physically broken no axle is really past the wear point of being rebuildable . I'm starting with an early D series front axle and upgrading to a later model D series 1" spindle type with the heavier casting . Since I could never find any pics of a comparison - here we go.... If you look closely - there is an obvious difference in the castings at the spindle end - the later model axles were thicker and larger diameter to accept the heavy duty 1" spindles. Later model (post '75 , I believe). This photo really shows the obvious difference in diameter - early models were much smaller and a thinner casting for the early 3/4" only spindles . Need to find someone with a tape measure and one of the oddball early D-200 1" spindle equipped tractors to find out if those were a thin casting or the thicker type . The machined relief is for the roller thrust bearings that were originally used - if you ever buy a D or I believe the 520's , this is the first thing to check as many were never properly greased and destroyed that bearing . This can really wreck an expensive spindle and make it more difficult to rebuild the axle casting itself . I will be re-machining these reliefs to mimic the factory design to keep dirt out and retain the grease inside the bearing . Early castings , at least on this 18 Auto or D-180 that I have (missing the stupid id tag completely) measures roughly 1-1/2" outside ... Later model upgraded casting is a whole different animal - there are major differences in how they were cast and not just at the spindle ends . Later models were 1-3/4" on the outside . Since I've never seen a new old stock replacement I'm not certain as to the original finish quality of the machining on these things - it is obvious that over time dirt has entered and a lack of proper grease results in the bores being worn badly - some are literally egg-shaped , especially tractors from the late 60's with high hours and heavy use . Snowblowers and other heavy front implements of course accelerate this wear issue - I'm out to cure that and make the unit more serviceable . The biggest , #1 problem with these is how they are greased . I've bought and sold tractors for years and had some that had huge grease balls around the spindles , inside the wheels and all over the front end . At least they were trying but the wear is almost no different than one that was seriously neglected . With the weight on the spindle , the grease is forced upward and exits at the E-clip at the top , never lubricating the bottom where it rides on the spindle base for the steering arm . The correct way to grease these things is to lift the tractor BY THE FRAME , NOT THE AXLE ITSELF . Also , do not lift it by the front mule quick attach - you will bend the cross rod for the latch and destroy it . Best way is to use a block on the frame itself or make a spreader to fit the jack , maybe I can take the time to get pics to show better ways to pick these things up since they aren't exactly lightweight ...lol . No make or brand was exempt from this issue , they all did it . The problem becomes parts availability - there are only so many parts left and finding good spindles and axles is becoming a serious problem . Some brands aren't too bad (such as the green ones) since they still support most of their older models . Unfortunately for us - Toro has chosen to drop these parts and stock is quite limited . I got really lucky and a parts dealer friend had a pair of NOS 1" D series spindles , one of the last pair to exist to my knowledge . Those are getting blueprinted and angles mapped for later - I may tackle making new ones in both the 3/4" and 1" versions . I believe with a little engineering the earlier models made in the 60's could use a sort of generic spindle since there little difference in the many models - it was mostly down to the axle's angles and width . My D will be upgraded to heim joints for the steering . Many of the tie rod and drag link ends are NLA and finding steering arms that don't have the tapered holes wallowed out is getting pretty tough . The low angle taper on those automotive style ends allows them to work loose despite having fine thread castle nuts and cotters - the force required to turn the wheels due to the above mentioned lubrication issues , combined with a gear reduction Ross type steering box makes the holes in the arms wear - I've seen 4 of these spindles on different D's all worn the same way with the tapered factory holes oval in shape and the shanks on the rod ends could be easily turned with a wrench, which should not be possible .Converting to heims is not too hard and less expensive in the long run - the only issue being the left hand threaded rod ends at the steering bell crank (or idler arm) . Since it sits so close to the underside of the frame and being tight quarters we may have to resort to using a reduced size heim joint which are easily obtained if you know the part number systems . I have a NOS pair of factory rod ends (ball joints in the parts manual) so this one won't be getting this upgrade for now . The factory bell crank is subject to wear like everything else . It's buried up under the engine and I suspect most were neglected being so hidden . Inside is a steel bushing riding on the cast iron bore of the bell crank . The retaining bolt , bushing and iron casting all get worn - which results in sloppy steering . On a D that's a real problem since their turning radius is huge to begin with . I've modified mine slightly by moving the turning arc point of the drag link inward by 3/8" - when it's done I'll test and measure the turning radius to see how much it helped and if there is any interference or other issues . Models with working turning brakes in either the stock D-200 or kit-equipped smaller models of course helped when in dirt or grass - just never use those on pavement or hard surfaces since it can really bind things up and possibly cause rear axle damage . It's all mentioned in the manual and instructions for the kits to add turning brakes . Not sure yet if I'll just make a separate thread on the steering parts or include them here - plenty of info to make a long thread on the cast iron axle alone . Depending upon how well it works out I may offer this as another service to the long list of other parts I build or rebuild currently . Guy with a lathe , far too many tools and a TIG welder must stay busy during the long winters....lol . So far, it hasn't been a cheap venture - tooling bits and parts totals are well over $400 and climbing - haven't really started any machine work on the axle as of yet since I'm still waiting on one tooling bit . I will try to document what is used in the rebuild and a parts list as well as sources . All bushings and bearings used will be off the shelf parts so it's nothing that isn't easily available . Lathe work my be required to avoid using custom ordered parts and their associated extra costs . Anyhow , more to follow.... Sarge Going forward
  4. I'm having a heck of a time keeping my hydro system on my d180 from leaking at the manifold/hydro pump connection. Supposedly, there are two "O" rings that fit in the groove for at least the larger opening. There's a normal one and a "square" one. (cross section). I tried the connection without the "square" one, but it leaked. Then I tried making my own "square" one by carefully sanding down a normal "O" ring and positioning them just as the manual says. Better, but still leaks. My Toro dealer tells me that he doesn't even have these "O" rings on his drawings. Anyone know where I can purchase a set of these? Is there supposed to be a dual "O" ring connection with each of the 4 lines? Why on earth would Wheelhorse even design this system that required stacked "O" rings. It's not leaking a ton. But it's making a mess of the hydropump cooling fins an everything else in the vicinity.
  5. I recently inquired with the Johnny Bucket people if they made anything for the D series. I was told no. Anyone know if there's anyone else out there with a similar product that would work? I can see it being really useful for moving dirt, gravel, mulch, stone and whatever else around the yard. Has anyone tried to adapt one to a D?
  6. Well today was the last straw..She finally gave up the ghost on the hydro line that was dripping. The drip went to a full fledged waterfall today while plowing 9 inches of heavy wet slop this morning. I was making my way to the end of the drive to make the first pass and I turned around at the end and saw little red drops following me in the fresh snow..I knew it didn't have long...I didn't realize it was going to be this short though. I knew the things been dripping so I have added to keep on top of it. It plowed the snow pretty well for how long the drive is and how heavy it was. I opened up the half mile long drive and noticed a change in power and pitch of the hydro pump on the last push...I checked and saw it had a pretty good stream running out but overall not too scary so I figured I better get back to the house. Checked the level and it was literally an 1/8th inch below full so off I went...well let me tell you, in the minute and 30 seconds it took me to run the driveway I got to look back and the stream was blowing back 20 feet, I stopped and checked it by the house and decided I wasn't going any farther with how it was leaking. I went to back up to get it off the drive and into the little parking area I have by the house and it wouldn't go in reverse...uh oh is all thats going through my yea,, goes forward again...no backy backy.... Numerous 4 letter expletives flying out of my mouth now, got it off the drive and checked and the leak is spitting red foam out of her....Rampart.... she's aspirating...we're gonna lose her...Shut her down Rescue 51....check the dipstick...EMPTY!! Rampart get me an IV of D5-W stat...not an ounce of fluid showing...stick it in again 51...nothing Rampart...Oh sh**...not good 51....Johnny Gauge go get the gallon of tranny fluid....dumped it in and just registered to add...another half gallon back to full... Rampart we have stabilized the patient and are preparing to transport.... I finally got the front wheel welded up with Dad and this happened today...Pop affectionately refers to it as the biggest PIECE OF SH** Wheel Horse ever made....... But I guess tomorrow once a little more snow melts the plow is coming off and I'm putting her in the Operating Room....I wonder if I will ever get this thing fixed that it doesn't need something...Just a little humor or I sure as heck would be crying by now..... SHES A GUSHER!!!! Lost a gallon and a half in 1 minute...ZOINKS!!
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