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Found 11 results

  1. One seat spring is about 1/4" lower than the other one. Has anyone had this problem. If so, what'd you do to fix it?
  2. Homer's C-120

    Homer is a typical Southern man. When a tool breaks, he moves it to his backyard to be repaired another time. Turns out I'm the repair guy and have been attempting to barter for an old C-120 and a Commando 7 buried in the yard. He surprised me with the C-125 black hood a while ago after numerous mower, chain saw, weed wacker and whatever repairs. The horses are all out of a shop in Joplin now gone after the big blow... Soooo, 1 repaired old Sears LT and another that I took apart just so he could see after running without oil that the cam was in 4 pieces and the rod in 5 and he said I could have the 120. We pulled it out of the dirt with 4 flats, destroying several ant mounds in the process. Truly, not bad condition thanks to Homer's attention to the use of tarps. He tells me the 301 was bored .030 over and his mind is sharp for a 92 year old so I'm inclined to believe him. May be able to save that Commando in the near future if I repair that old Bolens GT14 first - and so on. So, my collection is now at a lowly 2. I don't think I'll restore this - will just make her a reliable runner and make the wife happy The deck can use a little metal but seems salvageable. Another C saved!
  3. I tried to downsize

    I sold this last fall. 1975 C-120 Auto. The buyer called and asked if I wanted it back. I couldn't say no. He put about 4-5 hours on it. The war dept. told him him he had to chose between a motorcycle or the WH.
  4. Tecumseh HH120

    Just got a 1974? C-120 with a apparent Tecumseh replacement engine 12 hp. Wiring harness was changed, but works. I' am pretty sure it was a Kohler. My problem is it turns over through 3 compression strokes and stops starter. continuously. Bought new starter same problem. IT did start and run great, good idle and rpm range. Shut off and will not start same turn over problem. I placed my hand over carb and turns over as it should with no stopping .Lots of fuel on hand as expected. Any ideas! Do I need to include more information? Model 10495 9 ser.# 46429 Thanks
  5. Hi there, We recently became the proud owners of a 1976'ish C-120. When we purchased the tractor it wouldn't start but the previous owner believed this was due to a faulty solenoid. Anyhow, I finally had time today to see if it would run. On initial inspection, there was a definite 'click' on attempting to start. And after a few attempts, the starter turned the engine over and it fired - so I think we actually have a 'sticky' starter, rather than a dodgy solenoid? Anyhow, I then took the tractor for a 'spin', and not knowing how long the fuel I had put in might last, after about 30 minutes the engine spluttered to a halt. Oh dear out of fuel I filled the tank with what fuel I had left in my can, but on attempting to restart, the engine turns over but refuses to fire. Having run out of fuel, is there some sort of 'priming' process that I need to go through before I will be able to get the engine to fire again? Any advice gratefully received. A newbie
  6. C-120 Relocate muffler (Kohler)

    Would like to relocate muffler, does get hot in carb, fuel pump aria after mowing for an hour or so. Have heard some people have had vapor lock issues. I like the look of the factory muffler, but the heat. Don't want a big stack sticking up n the air. I have seen some with the smaller "shower head" mufflers but was wondering about noise (are they louder). Have also seen a few pic's of newer tractors that looked like the muffler was mounted horizontally above the PTO. I think I even saw one with a small chrome heat shield. Also looks like the air from the engine fan helps to dissipate the heat. Looking for any one that has good pic's of or ideas about this.
  7. Drive belt length

    Guys, I'm really struggling to find the drive belt length for my C-120, 8-speed (12HP Kohler). I've ordered the wrong belt, twice now. Can anyone take a peak at theirs and help a guy out? It should be in the ballpark of 5/8 x 81"/82" but I need an exact before I reorder.
  8. 1976 C-120 Automatic

    1976 C-120 Automatic with 12HP Kohler engine, Sundstrand hydrostatic transmission and 42 inch, side-discharge mower deck. Also comes with a Wheel Horse dump cart (which is in rough shape); otherwise, no other attachments or implements. Owned since new by same family; currently third generation. Gently used every year for residential grass cutting only (<1 acre). I’ve had it for 9 years and kept it inside; minimal surface rust (mostly paint oxidation). Starts in less than one second, runs well and has been very reliable. Currently will need carburetor work. In addition, the lights, seat weight sensor and mower deck lift function have not been operable for some time. In the last 9 years, new parts include: PTO plate, left and right front wheel spindles, sparkplug, ignition coil, battery, starter solenoid and PTO drive belt. It weighs about 700 pounds and purchaser will be responsible for transportation.
  9. C-120 PTO Clutch Re-line / Re-build

    Hi Everyone. I recently rebuilt the pto clutch on my 1976 C-120 and figured id post some pictures and part numbers to save other time who are doing the same. I have the 6.75" OD clutch plate and didn't want to spend the money to get a new one from Toro so i ended up doing some research and re-lined it myself. I wasn't sure on the material so i took some measurements it looks like the originals are .125" thick stock. Clutch Material: McMaster #60895K11 http://www.mcmaster.com/#60895k11/=11rane8 It comes in a 7.5 x 7.5" square so you also have enough to re-line your brake like i did. I found the easiest way to cut it was to trace the OD of the old clutch plate and for the id i found a 4" angle grinder blade was the right diameter. I used a set of snips to trim the OD and a jigsaw to do the ID and seamed to work well. Extra material: Thin jigsaw blade i used: Final product: Now i also increased the contact area versus the original. The old one only contacted about an inch in width this one i had full contact on the bell of the pulley. My pulley was scored so i face it clean on the lather removing only the minimum need to get a full clean. YOu can chuck the narrow end of the bell on the pulley, just make sure the face is true (axial run-out <.005") I now have 2" of width on contact, it should work much better now. I prepped my old clutch backing plate by removing the old work clutch and the worn out broken rivets. Using a die grinder with an abrasive wheel works good. I then used a rougher disk to make little rough grooves in the face to make sure the clutch adheres better with the epoxy. Note the old contact area. Once the backing plate is cleaned use air and carb cleaner to thoroughly clean the new clutch material and the backing plate. Now i used Loctite 380 Instant Adhesive. We use this at work for similar materials on clutches and brakes. its oil heat and impact resistant and is literally the strongest fastest drying adhesive i've ever used it really works wonders. It cleans up with carb cleaner (even on your hands) t available the cheapest from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-135423-Toughened-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B000132VEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459388480&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+380 A zigzag pattern gives the best coverage to ensure it contacts and sticks evenly. Now make sure you just stick the clutch onto the backing plate and not the pulley I used the pulley as a plate to clamp the new lining onto the plate with the help of 3 clamps and left it there overnight. Just make sure the pulley is up so any drips don't stick the pulley to the other half. Now you can use those leftover pieces to also re-line the brake: same idea and process here... Since i had the whole thing apart anyways i decided to replace the bearings, they are a fortune from Toro and some aftermarket ones just didn't seem to be of high enough quality. I ended up finding a package deal on the originals on ebay so i figure did post the OEM bearing specs so you can find them yourselves locally or online its easier knowing the bearing manufacturers number than a Toro number. Ball Bearing (on the end taking the PTO thrust): Fafnir P204RR6 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Fafnir-P204RR6-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00FAY909S Needle Bearing (on the inside of pulley holding the radial load): Torrington J-2420 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Koyo-Bearingd-8600rpm-Maximum-Rotational/dp/B007EDPF4C Grease Seal: CR 14810 (Chicago Rawhide) Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/SKF-14810-Small-Style-Diameter/dp/B00CLIVXNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1459389503&sr=8-3&keywords=CR+14810 Locally here in RI/MA i always use Eastern Bearings in Prov, RI to get all my bearings and seals they have reat pricing and can get you anything you need but you can also find them online at many places. Just be careful the letters on the ends usually mean different seal types so make sure you look into the whole part number. Hope this helps! Good Luck! if you have any questions ill try to help.
  10. Searching CL last night came across this one. No pictures of it online so I figured I would check it out. Runs perfect nothing mechanically wrong other then tires are cracked. Was passed around a family. Did not come with anything other then the weights. Going to see if I have some time tonight to clean it up some.
  11. Wheel Horse C120

    First post here! new to red square. new to wheel horse. new to garden tractors... complete rookie here! i purchased a used non running wheel horse yesterday from an ad on craigslist mostly for the implements. i also bought another tractor yesterday, a craftsman gt6000 18hp horizontal shaft. well, i was hanging out with my best friend (google) and i think i figured out my tractor is most likely a 1974 Wheel Horse c120 automatic with a tecumseh hh120. made a quick video and posted on youtube. first time ever posting on youtube so....
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