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Found 13 results

  1. Wanted Suburban

    Looking for a suburban 400 or 550 or something similar in size for my son's first tractor. Willing to drive up to 2-3 hours from Westminster, Md (21158) for the right tractor. Thanks, Justin 443-532-0610
  2. K91 Tins

    WANTED Tins for my k91 that is on my 401. See the picture below for the specific pieces. PM me if you have some you would like to sell. Thanks!
  3. my 400 suburban rebuild

    well some previous identification led us to this possibly being a early 400 suburban due to the hood and its lack of pluged hole for the 550. but as I cleaned her up I found this number on the cast....coincidence or does it mean what it says?? not sure my brain is confusing me... one manual sais they used tranny 5010 my tranny doesn't say that... they made 400 401 502 and 550 but I don't find any tractors that are a 501??
  4. Suburban 400,401,550, 551, RJ Parts needed

    Looking for parts for my 1960 Suburban 400 project 2- 1608 motor pulleys (for K91) 1- transmission pulley for 3 piece transmission 1 - spring, tension (transmission belt tensioner) (or if someone could give me a picture with a length and wire size so I could fine a similar one at the hardware store) 1- clutch idler pulley & shaft assy (if I drill out the rivets, is it possible to match this bearing at bearing supply? Does the shaft press out of the bearing?) 2 front rims 1 shower cap exhaust muffler Kohler K91 dry type air cleaner Will need them shipped to Marble Falls Tx
  5. What did i buy?

    So i found an RJ to restore. Except I cant figure out exactly what it is, here are some pics. I have not seen any others with the choke and throttle pulls on hood like this...i know its not a 35 thats all i know though lol. It came with a seized up k91 which i think would be the original engine, I tore it down, the connecting rod was seized to crank shaft so i will see if i can get new rod and have a friend measure crank to see if he can regrind it...Excited about this project so any help would be great!
  6. I have a 401. The front rims are both different upon inspection. Both are 8 inch and same width. Both have the same offsets. Both are wheel horse rims and have the two holes for bolt on weights. But, one rim has the grease zerk and valve stem on the outside and the other rim has them both on the inside. (no you can't just flip one wheel around as the inner hub length is longer than the outer hub length.) The second difference is the shape of the "dish" or "bubble" in the center of the wheel. One has a more pronounced hump in the center of the rim. It is obvious that one of them is not correct to the tractor. From what I can tell, it looks like these early models had the zerk and valve stem on the outside. I obviously have rims from two different years or two different models. Where the front rims different from year to year? Anyone have knowledge of what rims were used in what years or what my odd rim might be from? Is there a way to ID these? Here is the "correct" one. I can't find a picture of the other one at this time though. The other one looks very close, just the zerk and tube are on the other side of the wheel and the bulge in the center is a different shape.
  7. I need some help identifying this WH. I'm working on learning the details to look for, so here's what I see! The hood stand is solid. The front axle is swept across the width and swept back. The lines on the top of the hood seem to fade out and not go all the way back it has a solid seat pan. The extra frame space in front of the hood looks too long? so would that make it a 1960 Suburban 400 or 401, or could it be an RJ? it's in poor shape, but maybe a parts tractor, or the start of an RJ restore. is the hole to the back left of the hood not factory? it's been for sale for a while, and I'm about ready to check if the price is getting a lot more negotiable
  8. So I found this chassis on CL and it is missing a few notable items, namely an engine, appropriate steering wheel, etc. The seller is not a WH guy and can't identify the exact model, but my untrained eyes of pre-1964 tractors tells me this is probably an RJ, maybe a later 551. So my query is twofold: 1. What model is this tractor? and moreover... 2. Will I be able to scrounge enough parts to restore this thing or should I hold out until I find a complete tractor? Thanks!
  9. Pics first What's left of the decal Ok lets start with these if you need some other view let Mr know and I'Lo get them. Thanks for the help
  10. Does anybody have a set of clamps for mounting the Suburban 1961 muffler guard? I'm not sure what they look like or how they attach? Thank you
  11. 401 engine issues

    I'm hoping you guys might be able to help me out here. The Suburban 400 I got last year has been great since I got it. It was the only one of the lot of 4 that ran awesome. Well I used it to plow a couple of the smaller storms here over the winter and I wanted to mow yesterday. Well it wont start at all now. Fresh fuel, fresh plug and still very weak yellow/no spark. Where are the coils and points etc. on these little Kohlers? I know nothing about the little K series and could really use some help fixing her up tomorrow. Thanks in advance for all suggestions
  12. My 551 had a brandy new H60 Tecumseh bolted to the frame when I got it but it had never been hooked up or run. It then sat for 25 years in a dry basement. I've gotten it running but now have a clutch issue. I've adjusted the clutch, brake rod and clutch finger by the ops manual, made sure all pulleys align, but cannot put it in gear with the engine running. The trans pulley turns so easily it just never stops even though the belt is loose with the idler disengaged - or even removed! The belt looks new and is correct (WH #1569). 551 pictures I seen on this site show the idler pulley and trans pulley about the same diameter. My idler is 3" and and the trans pulley 4". The belt guard fits well. What am I missing? The trans pulley would have to be stopped to put it in gear and that ain't happenin.
  13. When I picked up my 1960 Suburban 550, the main drive belt would not disengage when I pressed on the clutch pedal. I took the belt off and it ended up being a 28" belt which is 1" smaller than the factory 29". Yesterday I purchased the correct 29" belt and installed it but it still will not disengage. If I start the tractor in gear while pressing the clutch pedal, the engine drive pulley will not spin the belt, but If I release the clutch pedal and then press it again, the belt will not stop spinning making it impossible to change gears. So is the belt routing incorrect or am I missing some parts here???
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