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Found 17 results

  1. Hi, I found a 200 series RD 36" mower (05-36XR01-11097) in really great shape. It was from a vertical shaft mower and had the mower drive belt guide towards the rear as a separate unit (not on the front spindle). I am trying to convert it to use on my 1972 Commando. The spindles are have round shafts with grease fittings. The spindle shafts look long enough to use the double belt pulley on the front spindle. Can you still buy the double belt pulleys that will fit on these round spindle shafts? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! I have two double belt pulleys from old decks but the are for the shafts with two flat sides!
  2. Wheel Horse D180

    Wheel Horse D180 automatic Starts and runs greats. This tractor has been barn kept it's entire life and used very lightly. The rear tires are brand new (worth $200 each) with rubber injection marks still on them Paint job is all original and in excellent shape. This tractor can be driven around but needs linkage to be perfect. If you would like to take a look at it or have any questions give me a call. Make offer. wheel horse, farmall, allis chalmers, lawn tractor,
  3. It took me forever and a year but last spring i found something that fits perfectly. Had to measure the 3 hole separation, but found snapper occasionally uses a blade of the same spec. Readily available online although i have forgotten the site.
  4. Hello on my kawasaki 227-5 17 hp single cylinder i was thinking about putting a straight through pipe on it and people time and time again were mentioning burnt or warped exhaust valves and i have no idea how bad this is or how common it is so i just want to know if i should or shouldn't straight pipe the engine thank you James see my other thread about tachometer gauges
  5. Tachometer

    Hello I have a Wheel-Horse 227-5 with the 17hp kawasaki single cylinder engine and was interested in putting a tachometer on it (just because i won't too) but i need a step by step guide as I'm not sure what exactly i need to do, also if anyone could advise on a good tach to use that would help a lot, while I'm at i thought that i might put a oil pressure/temperature gauge on it. thank you James
  6. Version

    62 downloads

    Operator manual #810296R1 4 pages 848.00KB IPL from Toro Master Parts Viewer 2 pages 171.30KB Fits 1983 B-Series and LT-Series See Product Service bulletin 1984 B-Series and LT-Series 1985-1986 200-Series For vertical shaft 200 series models 1985 onwards but was also used with 1979-80 B series models (supplied with different lift rod) Fits for example B-165 or 216-5. Dozer 1983 42in model 06-42BB02 Complete 1983 serial numbers that have shown up for the 06-42BB02 19345 20452 - Build date 1983 3259 September 16 Friday 20551 - Build date 1983 3259 September 16 Friday [259] Guess Dozer 1984 42in model 06-42BB02 Complete Dozer 1985 42in model 06-42BB02 Complete Dozer 1986 42in model 06-42BB02 Complete Link to service bulletin http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/469-wh61-90-315-snow-equipment-1982pdf/

    Free

  7. When it comes to Xmas sometimes it's best to buy a present for yourself - something useful that you actually want so....... Despite already having two snow blades, one for the C-100 and one for the 316 my attention was grabbed by a NOS blade that appeared on recently. A little bit of research confirmed that it was for the 200 series tractors like my 216-5 so although these are not the best tractors for pushing snow I was certainly interested though not at the starting price being asked. When it attracted no bids I made an offer that was accepted and a 270 mile round trip made to Droitwich today saw a new addition to my collection of WH attachments. Having laid out the bits on the living room carpet for a photo (yes, it's that clean!) I felt a bit guilty about not paying the original asking price but my offer was accepted and apparently the guy selling had been made a better offer but to adapt it to fit on a Kubota .... but being a guy with a couple of C's himself amongst other tractors, said he'd rather see it go to be fitted onto a WH - that's how good true WH people are I guess. I'm getting the C-100 ready for snow duty at the moment - this year with some ATV tire chains by 'Moose' in the USA which, given the small amount of snow we get down here, will probably be enough but there's the 316 that can also be 'plowed up' so as to speak if the forecasters are right and we get significant snow this winter and if I get the time (it's a big if) then it would be nice to get the new plow onto the 216 if only for a photo shoot if it does actually snow. Andy
  8. Hi folks, I'm new here, but I've been scouring this site and others for information on a 212-6 that I recently acquired. I managed to find and replace front axle for it. Otherwise, it seems to be in really good shape. One issue is that it doesn't seem to brake effectively. It goes just fine, but it doesn't stop well. (Found this out the hard way.) Finding information on how to adjust the brakes hasn't been easy. I did find the following site that has a neat little description on page 21 (page 25 in the PDF), but the pictures are pretty grainy, and my attempts to follow the directions haven't worked out so far. http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Tractors/Tractor_1986_200-300-400_OM_810399R1.pdf I've attached a picture with a pointer to the adjusting nut. Turning it several turns to the left, however, doesn't seem to allow the wheel to turn freely as described in the manual. And, it seems like to get more braking power, I would want to turn the nut to the right anyway. Anyone have any experience adjusting the brakes on a 212? Your help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Ron
  9. Hello, I have a Wheel Horse 257-H that I replaced the drive belt on about a year ago. The replacement belt I used was not the Wheel Horse part but a after market drive belt that was a pretty close match in size. I noticed the replacement belt slipping a bit a few months after I installed it. I could smell it when hauling loads or going up steep hills but it didn't affect operation so I didn't worry about it. Well this summer it broke and what I am wondering is if the cause was more likely premature wear from the heat caused by slipping or if it is more likely the stress from the heavy loads of firewood I towed with it this spring. I like to haul heavy loads and since I am replacing the belt with the OEM part I am hoping slippage wont be an issue. If so can I push the drive belt as far as the hydraulics and motor can go or should I always expect to find out that I pushed it too far with a drive belt failure? Thanks, Nick
  10. 1994 264-h model 72043

    Hi All, First off I will tell you a bit about me. 3 years ago I bought a fixer upper house on 5 acres. The landscaping was all field grass, blackberries, snowberries and tires covered by all the grass. Any way sitting out front was a Toro 264-H with 290 hours. The previous owner said i could have it and that it had sat outside for 5 years next to the road. He said it had a busted steering belt. Well digging into it I found there was no belt but a stripped gear. I changed the gear, oil, and replaced gas line and melted in-tank filter grommet, replaced batteryand my mower has ran great. Since it was free I have not been nice to it. I cut down tall grass 2 feet plus, blackberries and the hidden tires. I have only replace the belt for the mower deck twice. Fast forward to today. The years sitting outside in the rain have not been kind to the deck or the plastic hood. Hood has been repaired more times than I care to say. Mower deck had the top cut off and replaced with sheet metal. Today the deck is beat and I finally lost a spindle. My question is what other decks will fit? Currently it has a 38" recycler deck Model# 78226. I don,t really want to buy new but would like to find a used deck that is compatible. Also does anyone know if the hoods are compatible between different years? I apologize for not reading through the facts and other threa on this sites. I just lost the spindle and am looking for a quick solution. I have kept this thing garaged since I fixed it and have gone over most things. I love that it turns on a dime and would like to keep it running as long as possible. Thanks in advance for any advice. Eric
  11. Version

    32 downloads

    Operator manual #810661R1 Part 1 - 3 pages 4.39MB Part 2 - 4 pages 3.59MB Dated 06/89 Fits some 200-Series lawn tractors Power grass collector 07-31PS01 available for this deck. This is a better copy than the one that can be downloaded from Toro. See product service bulletin "WH89-90 #T28 216-H 30in Mower Belt" Mower 35-30SL01 serial # 20987 and lower requires longer belt # 114421 if used on a 216-H tractor Mower Rotary 1990 30in SD model 35-30SL01 1990 serial numbers that have shown up for the 35-30SL010020987 - Shown in PSB #T-28 0022777 - Build date 1990 0005 January 05 Friday0023367 - Build date 1990 0078 March 19 Monday0023422 - Build date 1990 0078 March 19 Monday0023423 - Build date 1990 0078 March 19 Monday

    Free

  12. 1994 Toro/Wheel Horse 264-4

    All suited up and ready for the next storm!
  13. Hello, I am in the UK and a very happy owner of a red tractor, but I'm struggling to get hold of a part for a 1991, 212-5sb wheel horse mower deck. I was hoping to get some help finding the bit. If I could get hold of an engineering drawing I could get it fabricated or if somebody has the part even better. It is the elbow for a 30" cutting deck. 200 Series Twin Rear Grass Bagger. - The deck is Model - E7 -07BL02. The part number is - 78-3350. If anyone could help I would be grateful. Alternatively has anyone converted the decks to a recycler and is this as easy as covering the side out shoot with a sheet of tin?. Thanks very much. Alistair
  14. need help with rear tires

    hi i have a 76 b-111 old school well after 30+ yrs the tires need changed the current size is 22x7.5-12 can i swap them with a 23x8.5-12 without alot of hassle thank u guys
  15. I’m posting this in the hope it may be useful to somebody somewhere, if not to RS members who seem to be generally able to turn their hand to pretty much anything, perhaps for the many out there that trawl the net looking for basic information to give them the confidence to do a job. After all, it’s from the ‘guests’ that a forum’s membership often grows. Having just finished overhauling my 216-5 ready for the new season which included fixing the brake it was time to overhaul the 227-5. The 200 series rarely seem to feature on RS, possibly because they are vertical shaft and considered to be ‘lawn’ rather than ‘garden’ tractors. Anyway, on with the job in hand – sorting out the brake which was poor in that it just about operated with the pedal fully down and the parking brake lever ratchet wouldn’t stay locked in the ‘on’ position. The 200 series are fitted with the ubiquitous Peerless transaxle found on many makes of garden tractor from the 80s era and which have with a transmission disc brake. The rod from the brake pedal applies force to the calliper operating lever via the larger strong spring with the result that you can control the degree of braking action by the amount the pedal is depressed. Adjustment to compensate for the brake pads wearing down is made by tightening locking nut securing the lever to the calliper. If this adjustment is not maintained then eventually the brake only just works at full pedal depression and there isn’t enough tension in the big spring to hold the parking brake ratchet engaged. So it’s simple, just adjust the nut eh? Well, having just overhauled the brake on my 216-5, I would say that having got this far always take the whole assembly apart unless you are certain it’s in good order as you’ve done it in fairly recent years. Removing the lever revealed the first sign that dismantling was indeed required. The disc must be able to move on the shaft and those splines looked ominously rusty to me so continue on. The two ‘plungers’ (for want of a better word) that transfer force through to the pad can be removed at this point. These were clean and still shiny; those on the 216 were a bit rusty but still came out and cleaned up ok. On removing the housing, the brake pad it retains dropped out in two pieces! Be careful to locate and put aside the metal plate that sits between the pad and housing to take the force of the ‘plungers’. So now to the brake disc which when new would have simply slid off the splined shaft. A bit of wiggling and it came off (just) by hand. The problem here is that the disc sits very close to the transaxle casing making the use of a proprietary puller difficult if not impossible. With the 216 it was stuck firm and even penetrating fluid left overnight didn’t help so I had to resort to some tapping. There’s a bit of end float in the shaft so I made wedges from scrap steel sheet of various thicknesses that would just fit either side of the shaft between the disc and casing. A few taps with a copper mallet and it moved a bit allowing a couple more thin ‘wedges’ to be inserted and so on. The idea was to bring it far enough forward to use a puller but by the time it had moved that far I managed to pull it by hand. The second brake pad sits in a recess in the transaxle casing and was part worn but intact. There appears to be a thin fibre shim between the casing and the pad, possibly it was used to hold the pad in place during assembly or possibly it provides a smooth surface. On the 216 it had pretty much disintegrated so I cleaned what remained of it out. It was time now to remove the grass debris, and clean the splines on the shaft and the disc. When the splines on each are clean of the rust and solidified grease mix the disc should move easily on the shaft – almost a tad loose in fact. The disc on the 216 cleaned up well and was pretty much perfect but this one was pitted. Looking at the pad surfaces they seem to have broken up a bit and developed pockets that held moisture causing the pits during winter storage year on year but hey, ho – it’s a tractor not an automobile so it’s going back for now and I’ll keep my eye open for a better one. The pads however, needed replacing. Re-assembly, as they so often say, is pretty much the reverse of disassembly but here are a few points: Grease the splines and wipe off any excess. Remember to install the rear pad before putting on the disc. Remember the metal plate that sits behind the outer pad in the calliper housing. Remember also that the bolts securing the calliper casting go into ally – don’t over tighten! Some Peerless diagrams show a coil spring that sits on the adjuster thread before the lever is installed but I didn’t find one of these on either tractor. I think it must have been an anti-rattle device so I’ve added one to each tractor but I guess it’s not that important. I greased the surface of the lever that actuates the plungers and the reverse face that moves against the washer. Now it’s time to adjust the brake calliper by tightening the lock nut. I’m not sure what the OEM guide for this is but I tightened it till there was just a little forwards / backwards movement left i.e. in the ‘off’ position the lever isn’t touching the ‘plungers’ but starts exerting pressure through to the pads as soon as it is pulled forward slightly. Having reconnected the brake rod to the lever and also attached the return spring to it one can check the operation of the brake and the parking brake ratchet – they both worked well. I’m sure someone will chip in and correct me if I’ve done something drastically wrong here but it seems to have worked ok on both tractors now. I've used tags for this post and images uploaded to the forum gallery! As I said, hope this is useful to someone out there. Andy
  16. 1988 227-5 (Europa)

    The 227-5 has a mighty 17 HP single cylinder Kawasaki engine.
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