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About Orezona

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    Flat Land U.S.A
  1. It has already been re-powered with a 1970 K181S. Thank you in advance.
  2. Won't crank but battery checks out at 11.7 volts

    Excellent post sir! Thank you very much. When we got back from dinner last night I had charged the battery up good and started the engine. I checked the battery voltage with it running and it was jumping around above 12v and spiking up around 21.7! Of course this was with the Generator Field Terminal on the regulator connected to the SG stud because I had not read your post yet. I really want to keep this 655 running tip top and not give in to a box store mower. The 655 cuts my half acre great and the rear discharge hardly leaves clippings at all compared to other new side discharge mowers in the area. Thank you for taking the time to help me out.
  3. I haven't heard anything on these. I have periodically checked Ebay and the classifieds here with no luck.
  4. Won't crank but battery checks out at 11.7 volts

    I've been doing a lot of reading the last couple days and I understand the theory: Posted by Save Old Iron in September of 2010 The regulator makes 3 "electronic" decisions in order to keep the battery charged AND protect the generator unit from overheating / frying. Decision #1 Let's look at the output voltage from the generator. If the voltage out of the generator is less than a "cut in point", (tractor not running or tractor is just starting up at low RPM's) , do not connect the regulator to the generator. Wait until the generator voltage rises above about 10 volts before you allow the regulator to control the generator. This decision allows the regulator to disconnect the battery from the generator to prevent the battery from being discharged when the tractor is turned off. Decision #2 Ok, the engine is running and the generator output is above 10 volts - the regulator is now connected to and is able to control the output from the generator. Now let's monitor the battery voltage to see if it needs to be charged. There is a "voltage monitor" relay adjusted to stop the charge current to the battery if the battery voltage rises above the "regulator voltage set point". When the battery voltage reaches 14.x volts, the regulator stops calling for generator output. Current from the generator to the battery (thru the ammeter) is reduced nearly to zero charge current. Not zero current , but close. If the battery voltage drops down below a minimum voltage set by the regulator, the voltage relay energizes again and turns the generator on full blast again. Current from the generator goes full blast and proceeds to charge the battery back up to the "regulator voltage set point". This cycle repeats and repeats while the tractor is running. This keeps the battery charged to 14.x volts. Decision #3 While the regulator commands the generator to produce current, the regulator also monitors the amount of current flowing from the regulator (thru the ammeter) into the battery. Please remember the voltage and current limits are being monitored at the same time. If the current demanded by the electrical system or battery exceeds a "maximum current flow set point", a different relay in the regulator opens up the field voltage to the generator and brings the charge current back down to nearly zero. This "maximum current set point" limits the generator output to its design limit (somewhere around 10 amps sounds about right). When the charge current falls below the max setting, the regulator slams the current back on again until the current thru the regulator again exceeds the maximum setting and then slams the current off again. Think of the current sense relay as a 10 amp self resetting circuit breaker that can cycle several hundred times per second. You may also think of this process as dimming the lights in your room by flicking the light switch on and off rapidly. No real dimming is taking place, just how long they are on versus off and thus a perceived change in brightness. Crude by today's standards but workable. This full on / full off cycling is what you see in the ammeter indication. Sooooooo............ either your regulator is toast, or needs adjustment or the battery is not capable of maintaining a charge and demands a constant charge greater than the 10 amps the generator can supply. The regulator is slamming the current on to 10 amps then slamming off to nearly 0 amps when the 10 amp limit is exceeded. This "slam cycling" happens several times per second. This on / off cycling of current is the vibration you set in the ammeter needle. You can try this with your battery charger by connecting the + charger lead to the battery and then disconnecting and reconnecting it as fast as you can. You will see the battery charger ammeter jump the same as the tractor ammeter. I would fully charge the tractor battery so little if any charge current will be needed to charge the battery when the tractor is running. With a fully charged battery, the regulator may need to drip in a small charge, tripping the over voltage relay in the regulator when the battery reaches 14.x volts. That's normal operation. The charge current to top off a fully charged battery should be very small so the over-current relay should never have to engage in the regulator assembly. Do a load test on your battery if the ammeter swings keep happening with a fully charge battery. The battery may charge to 14.x volts but it may not be able to keep the charge under load. Replace the battery if a charge cannot be maintained. Would somebody mind posting a "how to test the voltage regulator"? Thank you in advance.
  5. Won't crank but battery checks out at 11.7 volts

    Well, I put a new battery even though I new it isn't charging. When running it only reads about 9.7 volts. I threw a new battery in because we are in the middle of new-to-us house projects and I'm just trying to stay up with the yard while doing a lot of other need to be done stuff.
  6. Won't crank but battery checks out at 11.7 volts

    What should my Amp gauge read when running? It doesn't seem to work. Done packing for the day so I went out and checked the battery. read 12.07 when off. Started it and it read 11.7. What do you all think?
  7. Won't crank but battery checks out at 11.7 volts

    Thank you for all the responses. Haven't had a chance to mess with it yet (in the middle of moving). It runs great. I think I need to replace the valve cover gasket from what I can tell by the manual I found on here. Oil leak left and behind the carb. But that is another thread... Thanks again for all your responses. This seems to be a great WH enthusiast forum.
  8. If these work on a 655 I'm in for a set!
  9. After I finished mowing yesterday I shut down the 655 and later tried to re-start and it wouldn't crank like the battery was dead. I checked the battery with a multi-meter and it checked out to 11.7 volts. I then checked the ignition switch and it was good. So I put the charger on 2amp trickle on it for just a few seconds and it started right up. Any ideas? The engine is a 1970 K181S according to the serial number. Thanks in advance.
  10. Should the deck on my 655 be set so the wheels lightly touch the ground when mowing? Or should the deck be solidly rolling on the ground when mowing? Thank you in advance, New 655 owner
  11. Hello, I just purchased a really nice 655 last weekend and am in the process of learning as much as I can about this little beast. Is there a set of mulching blades. I measured the deck at 32". Also, should the deck be level front-to-back at cutting height or slightly lower in the front? Lastly, the rear wheels on the deck touch the rear tractor tires when in the full up position. It appears I can correct this by tightening the nut on the front adjustment rod. I this correct? Thanks in advance, New 655 owner.