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pacer

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About pacer

  • Rank
    Pacer
  • Birthday 01/18/1940

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1975 D-160
    1975 D-180
    1979 D-200
    1979 D-200





  • favoritemodel
    The "D" family

Profile Information

  • Military Member
    Air_Force
  • Location
    NW Louisiana
  • Occupation
    Retired - Delta Air Lines, bag loader

Recent Profile Visitors

2,821 profile views
  1. D160 repower?

    I have to agree that a replacement K341 would be the easiest, most practical, sensible, etc, etc, solution. And, hey, you certainly cant knock that beefy 16hp 341, while I too like the big Ktwins that big one lunger is no slouch.
  2. Wheele

    I have found this problem on 3-4 of the horses I have rebuilt and as you are finding out there dont seem to be any way of correcting it. Since the tierods are generally worn badly when I get them I just make new ones that are adjustable. You may not have the means to do this (I have a lathe) so you probably should look into what maynard suggested - find some that are adjustable. Toe out will cause rapid tire wear along with making steering very difficult.
  3. K321 stator help

    I just finished a refurb on a 414-8 with a K-341 (non-magnum) that had this 3 amp stator set-up. When I saw it I was as flummoxed as yall, but - as usual - Garry straightened me out. The wiring was a nightmare on the tractor and what with the maze of safety features it had, that would be almost impossible to to get corrected - I just ripped all the original wiring out and went back with a simple start-run-stop wiring. To help with this change over I had a K241 sitting on the bench and a quick inspection showed that the 15 amp stator/flywheel would change over to the K341 (the flywheels would NOT interchange) With that and a different regulator the wiring was quickly done!
  4. 4 WD tractor pics...

    This is running in my local CL - thought it was pretty neat. Hes asking $1500, which is sorely tempting --- but alas Im loaded down with horses! Honda 5518 tractor 4wd, 4wsteer. Has a deck.
  5. Christmas project

    Yeah, whats been said on grey being a replacement engine - I got one, a 341 that was on a non running D160 and after cleaning up the fuel system it ran absolutely beautifully! The carb was beyond help with being gunked up, and, I did use one of those $15 carbs off ebay! (Ive used some 5-6 of them now) The drawback to these is the choke arm is wrong for the horses. But I switch them out, using the old carbs choke. And yes, those 2 teeny screws holding the butterfly almost always break, but I just drill them out and rethread them to 4-40 and use a button head screw.
  6. k341 carburetor and governor

    Governors dont mess up very often, and what you are describing is pretty much classic carburetor problems. Surging with a good carb can usually be corrected with a tweak on the main jet (thats the screw on the very top of the carb, the one on the side is idle) If your carb is gunked up it will need a through cleaning. Now a "Kit" for the carb is a bit of a misnomer, it will consist of a bowl gasket and a needle and seat - thats it. (you will need both tho) A likely prob area is in the main jet, when screwed out of the carb you will see several tiny holes down the length of it, these and the part it is screwed into have to be clear. A good carb cleaner and some compressed air is a must.
  7. Kohler 532 engine from Bolens Tractor

    Yeah, the crank will be the go/nogo factor - A while back I heard of a complete K532 for sale at $100 and I got all excited .... til I got there and immediately saw the crank wasnt gonna cross over, The guy thought it came from a gen set, prolly should have scarfed it up anyway! But, if your crank should happen to be good, then ------- Even then if its a good price then parts are worth a bunch - they are getting scarce.
  8. The pump does run counter clockwise - and as far as using a drill motor for a check, I have done that MANY times and it proves a very reliable check. I "modified" an 11/16 12 point socket to get on the splines of the pump. I can get every thing checked this way without mounting the engine - Only one time I had a bit of a trial getting the system bled, but just kept at it and finally everything worked! No idea as to why your cyls dont work and the wheels do move......
  9. Sounds familiar - mine was wallowed out so badly that nothing I could rig up would budge it. (for some time I used my floor jack under the rear wheels to move it around) But finally I went into the drive system pump and once on the bench it came loose fairly quickly with a pair of vice grips. It screws all the way out of the pump, so once I had it out, I brazed a 3/8" nut on the end of it
  10. Yes it does.... sitting in the seat on the left side panel about even with where the battery sits is about a one inch opening. Looking inside is either a place for a flat blade screw driver or a 3/8" square object? visible. Turning this counter clockwise about 1 to 1 1/2 turns relieves the pressure and allows bypass. Its entirely possible that it will be stuck (mine was!) and if the flat blade type, can be fun getting loose - with the square head a extension from your 3/8" socket set will allow a better 'bite'
  11. D160 Won't Start

    Coils are pretty reliable - Another possibility is at the points, they will/can get a 'glaze' between the contacts and you get nothing. I know its not recommended, but I (and I imagine many others) use a thin piece of fine sandpaper doubled (wet or dry is good) and pull it thru the gap a few times to get rid of that glaze.
  12. 1973 18 Auto Voltmeter Mod

    Yep, I'm slowly changing my ammeters over to volt meters....
  13. I have 3 "Big D's" - and on 2 of them, the 180 & 200, I can about 'throw' the lever at neutral position and it will BE in neutral. But my D160 is a different bird, I have to fiddle with the lever to find it and even then sometimes I'll get off the tractor and look around and it'll be creeping backward/forward (maybe thats why they added the seat safety switch!) But, I dearly do dislike those! I have made several runs at adjusting it with no luck, even disassembling it to check for internal wear somewhere inside, but again with no luck. So, I am just living with it, actually I have become pretty good at finding that 'sweet spot' and it not too big a deal.
  14. Boy, thats about the truth - when you hear the saying "grandmaw slow/low" then thats it!!
  15. Key switch

    I get mine at Oreilly's auto, about $12 as I recall, I've also seen them at a couple other auto stores
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