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About CGK

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    Salisbury, NC
  1. Solenoid wiring help

    d41, Glad you were able to get your WH up and running !! SOI was indespensable to me in getting my 312-8 running again. One thing I found out for sure, all wiring gremlins can be solved but only if you have very good ground points. I rewired all of the grounding points on mine and replaced the OEM wire with a heavy guage copper wire and used copper lugs to bolt to the frame or directly to the engine where I could. I then used Plasti-Dip to coat all of the connections to keep them moisture and dirt free. After that, the engine starts like it did when factory new and runs like a top.
  2. Blowing 25A fuse

    I'm Back ! Was out of town all last week and when I returned home, I spent this past weekend scouring through all the notes from SOI and others and traced, retraced, checked and rechecked every wire, connection, ground and switch. I practically rebuilt the entire wiring harness. It's amazing how 24 years of flawless running can cease instantly due to bad connections, grounds, and switches. I found some bad wires, connections and weak grounds. So, I replaced the original ignition switch, original seat switch, original solenoid and safety relay. Rewired the iginition switch connection and replaced every ground connection from the battery through to the ignition switch. I used heavier 14 guage copper wire to run all of the grounds and grounded directly to the frame or engine wherever I could. Sealed all the connections with Plasti Dip to prevent moisture and corrosion. Put it all back together and VOILA !!! the old girl cranked right over better than new and she purrs like a kitten!! After 1627 hours, she's ready for another 20 years of service, at least !! Thanks to all who contributed ideas and tips and a big "hats off" to SOI for all of the detailed illustrations and instructions. They made my investigation and ultimate solution a whole lot easier to get through. You guys rock !! Thanks, Chuck
  3. Blowing 25A fuse

    Hey guys, Got all your responses. Thanks a million. SOI- love the "schematics" extremely helpful !!! Now all I have to do is print this off and step out the procedures and see what happens. As I mentioned before, I did install a new 4 terminal starter relay, rewired the new starter switch and installed a new safety relay and seat switch. Still getting the "no start condition" with the key and seat switch LED on when the key is turned on. So I'll noodle through the test procedures you so graciously provided and post up the results when done. Woodchuck, I like the idea of grounding to an engine mounting bolt. I'll definitely do that once I find out what's wrong here. Thanks to all ! Chuck
  4. Blowing 25A fuse

    OK Chuck, Here's what happens: I have a four terminal starter relay (solenoid) that is new. Jumper between two main posts fires up the starter and turns the engine over. Moving open end of jumper from +BAT post to relay trigger terminal does nothing. Ground to relay terminal is still connected. I would have thought that hitting the trigger terminal direct from the battery would energize the starter, no? Next step ..........................?
  5. Blowing 25A fuse

    Frustration Update: I rewired all connectors to the starter switch and reinstalled. I rewired the seat switch connectors and reinstalled. Checked for power going to the oil sensor with the key in the "ON/RUN" position. Getting power going to the sensor. All other conditions remain the same: seat switch LED lit with unoccupied seat. Hourmeter running, Ammeter showing fully charged battery. Turning the key to start causes seatswitch light to go out with unoccupied or occupied seat, power to the oil sensor switches off and still no activity on the safety relay and consequently, no start. I have tested and confirmed that the starter itself is good so that eliminates that from the equation. What still has me bumfuzzled is the fact that the only LED that operates during the switch on, start, and off cycles is the seat switch LED. Ignition switch ON - LED lit. Ignition switch to START- LED off. Both conditions occur whether the seat is occupied or not. No other LEDS light up whether or not the PTO is engaged or not or whether the clutch is engaged or not. Shouldn't either or both of those LED's light up during the start cycle if they are engaged?? Everything I am seeing keeps pointing to a wiring issue involving the seat switch but I don't know where else or what else is causing this no start condition. What else should I be checking for or have I missed something? What I thought would be a seemingly easy fix is quickly turning into an electrical nightmare all due to a couple wires shorting and blowing a fuse. If I can't get this figured out, I may blow a fuse soon. As a last ditch option, is it possible to wire the start/run cycle and bypass all of the switches that prevent it from happening?
  6. Blowing 25A fuse

    Thanks a bunch Chuck for all your help and tips. You're an encyclopedia of Horsey knowledge. I do have a meter and will check for voltage at the relay terminal, which by the way I also replaced the original relay as well. I'm digging into my stash of factory and NOS parts that I accumulated over the past 15 years or so. I did clean and resplice all the wires that were suspect at the ignition switch but I guess I'll have to check them all. One thing I did notice was that all of the female connectors were pretty gunked up with dirt and grime from 23 years of use. Would you suggest that I entertain the thought of replacing all of the connectors as well or just try to clean them as best as I can and see if that works ? I'll poke around some more to see if I can discover the problem here and will update results. Thanks again Chuck K.
  7. Blowing 25A fuse

    I failed to mention that with the key on and sitting on the seat, the seat LED stays on. I can't remember if it is supposed to stay on until key is turned to start or not. Could something else have fried when the short took place? I wouln't think so since the 25A fuse should have protected the circuit but who knows. Any thoughts on that angle?
  8. Blowing 25A fuse

    Mystery half solved. I tore into the problem and found three wires from the igintion switch that were worn through the insulation and finally shorted to the chassis causing the 25A fuse to blow as soon as the key was turned to the on position. So, since I had everything apart I decided to replace the starter solenoid, starter switch, and seat switch. Hooked everything up, connected battery and here's what happens: Iginition turned to on position: Power to all electrical loads. 25A fuse is good, 15A fuse is good, front and rear running lights good, seat switch LED on, hour meter running. I also tested the LED panel with the test switch and all LED's are fine. I then attempted to start with not success. Clutch depressed, PTO off, turning key to start causes seat switch to go off and nothing else happens. No relay clicking or starter action at all. It's like the battery is not even connected. Battery is fully charged as well. Any ideas or clues here that might help diagnose the problem?? All suggestions gratefully accepted.
  9. Blowing 25A fuse

    WOW "Save Old Iron" you have given me all the ammo I think I need to drill down into this problem!! What a great post !! Thanks a million and I'll post up the results of my diagnosis when I'm done. I'm so glad I joined Red Square, this place rocks!!
  10. Hey guys, New here and looking for some advice from the many gurus here. Started and ran my 1989 312-8 normally and shut it off without any issues. A few hours later, went to start her back up and as soon as I turned the key, the 25A fuse instantly popped. All electrical loads were switched off and there was no indication when I started it that there was any electrical problem. I replaced the fuse and without sitting on the seat this time, turned the key and the fuse blew again. I'm thinking short in the ignition switch or some other switch but before I start tearing into it, thought I'd get some ideas or suggestions here. All ideas and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much.