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About Howie

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/30/1945

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    69 Raider 12, 72 Raider 12
    78 C141
  • favoritemodel
    Raider 12

Profile Information

  • Military Member
  • Location
    Rochester, IN
  • Occupation

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  1. Wire should be on the outside of the funnel where it goes in transmission.
  2. If it were me I would be concentrating on the size of the top of the cylinder. About all of the engines I have checked with my bore gage have been bigger at the top of the cylinder. Probably if you take the piston out the scraper portion of the oil ring will be worn off. Will not scrape the oil off the cylinder wall. If dirt enters through the intake and valve area it will wear the cylinder. A lot of these tractors were not serviced like they should have been. Have rebuilt a lot of small engines over the years and one saees a lot of stuff.
  3. Most of the nuts on my Raider 12 were the ny-lok nuts. They have a piece of nylon in the top of them, keeps them from loosing up. If I have to use the threadlocker I use the blue. Local racer turned me on to it years ago, he used it on his sprint car.
  4. I've never had success fixing those. I turned ends down threaded them and made my own adjustable tie rod. Helps to have a lathe though.
  5. Playing with one of those 20hp Inteks here, and the thing will pop some if it is not pulling enough fuel thru it. The original issue was it would only run on one cylinder at full throttle. Would drop off on the one cylinder by going to idle position. Compression was low on that cylinder so I corrected that issue. Finally got it to run halfway decent today, had main body in carb cleaner for a couple of hours today. Those carb kit are pricey for what is in them! This was somewhat self inflicted as I used the one on this one for another engine to get it back to the owner. I changed coils around and a bunch of other stuff, came back to the carb. Those valve guides are a lot of times to an overheating problem,at least what I have ran into. Someone mentioned timing but it can't be adjusted. If flywheel key is good and clearance between coil and flywheel is correct that is where it will be.
  6. If the Kohler is like any other engine with the gear reduction box you will need a different crank. All I have seen have a short explained shaft. Have not pulled one of the Kohlers apart so I could be wrong on this.
  7. Nice looking tractor.
  8. The tie rods on my 69 Raider twelve are like the ones above. Have been on there about 20 years. Probably be better if they were bigger diameter but has worked.
  9. My old boss fixed a crank broken like that. Put it in a lathe bored and tapped it, cut a bolt off and put that piece in it. If I were doing that a little blue thread lock to hold it in place. This thing keeps changing words on me. I know that there would be cost on doing this. Spray it with penetrating oil let it soak. Do not like to but maybe a little heat.
  10. I have seen the bearing callout too, would like to see inside one!
  11. I bought a piece of 1/4 inch thick copper, took the key and found one of my hole saws that fit the key. Cut a piece out of the copper made sure it was the same as the woodruff key. Clamede it in the axle and welded around it. Axles were out so turned it down on lathe.
  12. That's why i changed the battery on my 1969 Raider.when I redid it three years ago. Got a tray to fit the battery and put it in. Put in one with enough cca's to crank it.
  13. You are going to be able to turn the valve when it is off the seat. Should not be able to turn it when closed. What is the valve clearance? It almost sounds like valve is not seating correctly. I say that because you stated it sounds like loss of compression out the carb.
  14. For me I get them at a local farm store. One tire shop in town has about the best prices here. They are very reasonable on installing them also. The ones mentioned already would be places to look. I change some myself and others I leave to the tire shop.