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About Cee245

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  • Birthday 03/19/1980

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1997 WH 416H
    1991 WH 416-8
  • favoritemodel
    Wheel Horse 420lse

Profile Information

  • Location
    North East, Pennsylvania 16428
  • Occupation

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  1. After taking 3 more readings on my HF temp reader: Front cylinder averaged 273 Rear cylinder averaged 282 After at least 30 min mowing One thing I noticed was the day I mowed and scanned the block on the pto side and it read 300f plus? Got worried and I checked the oil to make sure it wasn't low. (Was full) It is much higher than readings from near spark plug. Again my reader isn't high quality so, @ezeastside can I borrow your equipment to complete my test? LOL I think my test gives a general idea of what the highest temp is on a 16hp onan should be measured by a HF temp gun near the spark plug. Cory Me too @cleat! I'm planning on making cuts for more cooling. It can only help.
  2. @daveoman1966, Thanks again for having me over today to check out your impressive collection and to buy some parts at a good price. It was nice talking with you and thanks for the steering tip! Take care Cory
  3. Not sure @rmaynard On my 97 416, the spindle arm enters the notch most noticeable from underneath. Now, if you use the steering wheel to turn all the way left, the spindle arm doesn't enter the notch as much as grabbing the tire and pulling it a little further into the notch. I just did this... try it, and let me know Cory
  4. If you already tried to tighten the trunion and it didn't work, THEN you turned it BACK to your original position??? It seems like you just need to tighten MORE.
  5. I think I've figured it out. If you go out to your tractor and turn the wheel all the way left. Look on the flywheel side (left) and then look underneath, you should see where the part that holds the tie rod would bind on axle if not for the notch being there. Looks like it helps with turning radius. Cory
  6. Slammer, I don't think he's talking about the steering stop.... This is a 416h axle pto side. Doesn't have the notch. So it's just the 300,C, and B series? And I've seen how the 520 has their notch.
  7. I can only comment on my personally owned/used to tractors... @DennisThornton, I mostly agree with you, I have a 98 520xi for mowing our camp w/o p/s so I don't know how much better it is. I know that I don't like "smart steer" where it slows down when turning... but MY favorite is still the 416-8 mostly because it was dad's. And survived me and my brother beating on it for 1100 plus hours.
  8. I must have been wrong with my original post when showing temperature but this is what I got. Ok here are today/ tonight's results: Mowed this morning with deck on highest setting at 73f sunny. Front cylinder 267f Rear cylinder 279f Mowed this evening with deck at normal setting, 77f outside temp, sunny. Front cylinder 270f Rear cylinder 281f Again, these are the highest numbers I could obtain from a $20 laser gauge. This was generally near the spark plug base. I think those are solid numbers but I know @ezeastside has the proper equipment to really measure what I had intended. Cory
  9. @ezeastside, Great info! That is really cool to see. So there is almost a 9 degree difference between the front and rear cylinders correct? Do you think you could remove the drive belt guard next time you mow and test it with your equipment??? Obviously your equipment is a little more sophisticated than mine (lol) but I will still test mine the same way each time and go from there with drilling holes and possibly trimming the belt guard bracket. I would think as long as I test the temp the same way each time the actual temp isn't as important.
  10. What is the model number? It's usually on the left side of the seat pan. I tend to agree with @N3PUY on price for my area.
  11. Thanks Mike, I was a little surprised at the temperature difference of the 2 cylinders. I guessed before reading them that it would be 30-40f different, not 75! And that was only ONE reading 5-10 min after shut down. I know those numbers aren't accurate so my plan is to track the temps right after shutdown and I'll report back after the next few mowings and try some things to help with cooling.
  12. @artfull dodger, Good thoughts. I am not having a problem as of now, but I`m curious as to what a "normal temp" should be. I also have seeen guys drill holes in the drive belt cover to allow air to pass. Regardless of my experiment, I will be doing the same at some point as it can only help with proper cooling of the rear cylinder. @Bert, I can see in your 3rd photo how much lower the drive belt cover is, how did you do it? Do you have a similar photo further back on tractor? Thanks
  13. Yes the grommet is in place and the tins were taken off last spring and cleaned. I almost always blow it off after mowing. Do those temps seem too high / about right? I'm not sure what they should be after mowing for 40min.
  14. I dont know jack about Tech's , but I agree with the others about buying a tractor with a toasted motor I bought a 95 416h with good motor and hydro for 200 last year. That's about the only good things on it, but it ran and drove good. It's wiring and fuel system were butchered though. Along with some of the metal. (A happy kid with a drill is evident.) As most guys say on here, its only worth what YOU are willing to put into it. I wasn't willing to put ANY money into the 95 416h so I got it as a parts tractor for my 97 416h and 91 416-8. C
  15. Hey everyone, I have a 97 416h with 800ish hrs. I've done little to motor other than regular oil changes/cleaning of tins and cleaning carb a few times and my Dad helped fixing wires near fuse block and rear cylinder. After reading all about the heat related problems of the (P216) 416 and (P220) 520 Onan engines over the years, I thought I'd see what the temperature was on the cylinders after mowing my little half acre property @ 70f outside temp. (This usually takes about 30-40 minutes as I have a lot of kid related objects in the way.) This was roughly five-ten minutes AFTER getting done mowing when the idea occurred. I got about 310f for the rear cylinder and about 235f for the front. The temps change a lot when going over the fins, but I used the highest temp I seen on the gauge. These aren't running temps, but after I got done. I used a laser temp gauge from harbor freight. I was wondering if anyone else has done this and was wondering what the temperature would be if I cut some holes in the right side drive belt cover like I think @Ed Kennell did on his snow machine to help keep warm. I plan on tracking this info and sharing results more accurately as the summer goes on. Thanks C