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ri702bill

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About ri702bill

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    702 - The Family Heirloom - now retired to summer use only, in the family since'65.
    702 - complete but tired - the "Closest Living Relative"
    854 8 speed - purpose built Plow Horse. 854/C81 Special, my most recent project.
    502 - mostly complete, awaiting restoration.
  • favoritemodel
    702

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  • Location
    Rhode Island

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  1. Stretched frame?

    Red: Looking at Farmer's middle picture brings one thing to mind - frame twist. The cast iron ears on the lower steering support that spans the angles will not tolerate much twist without breaking - seen this on a few round hoods used for plowing. Adding steel cross bracing, like as in ladder rungs, help but may not eliminate the problem. His subframe will help to withstand twist. Bill
  2. Valves

    All: Before I remove the valves, I check the clearance from the stems to the tappets. Then I remove the valves and check each valve face, the size of the margin - the flat portion of the major diameter, stem diameter where it goes thru the guide, the undercut for the keepers, and then chuck it in the lathe to check for wobble. If the face is resurfaceable, that's fine - if any else is not acceptable then I replace the valve. The seats need to be inspected, as do the valve guide diameters. Then I grind the valve faces and seats, removing as little material as possible, as this affects the tappet clearance. Then I put the valves back in the block with no springs and seating the valve by hand, check the tappet clearance. If it is too small, you have to grind the end of the stem accordingly. Once that is all set, I do lap the valve to the seat, as this leaves a visible ring on both the valve and the seat. If both rings are even all the way around, it's time one last cleaning and reassembly. Reassemble with the springs, check the tappet clearances for the last time, as it may have closed up a thousandth or so. Bill
  3. Antifreeze in tires?

    Hello, welcome to the Forum. I filled all 4 of mine on my 854 with winter windshield fluid.. They already had tubes in them to begin with, so the corrosion of the rim and the tire dry rot were not problems. Well worth doing if you are going to plow snow - the rears used 4.5 gallons each, the fronts about 1 and a quarter gallons. Greatly improved traction and steering. Bill
  4. 702 Ignition system wiring

    Red: Yes, that is the original correct style for a 702. I did swap mine for a later chrome bezel style, only because the needle "bounces" too much at anything less than wide open throttle. A couple of other things - don't forget to look at the frame attachment plate to the Uni-drive. If the tractor did much plowing as mine did, some or all of the 4 mounting holes can be cracked due to torsional stress twisting the frame. Same goes for the lower cast iron steering mount - one or both ears can be broken off. Sometimes hard to see on a 702, as there is a bent strap that goes from the hood stand under the dash over the top of the ears. Part of owning a Round Hood .......... Bill
  5. 702 Ignition system wiring

    Red: Yes, all the current goes thru the momentary starter switch while cranking the engine. You CAN add a solenoid and replace the 2 position keyswitch with a 3 position one and wire it like it was an 854. The old 2 prong Cole-Hersee switch is kind of neat, though ......... Both the 702 and 854 wiring diagrams are available here on the Forum. Bill
  6. Which round hood is best for me?

    Clip Round hoods are fun, I have 2 702's (one of which has been in my wife's family since 1965), a 502, and my 854. Any will cut grass and plow snow - within limitations. There are 2 styles of gear driven rear discharge cutting decks that fit, either 32" or 36" - nothing bigger. The plow is 42" wide and even the 8HP 854 can only handle that, nothing wider. The 702's have the one piece fuel tank with removable dash plate, the 502 and the 854 have the leak prone 2 piece bolted and gasketed tank with fixed dash panel. My favorite is the 854, as it has the K181 motor, cambered front axle, and the adjustable down stop on the implement lift - great for skimming the plow over grass at the end of the driveway. I swapped the tired 4 speed in it for a good 8 speed from a C 81 - that gives the rear a wider stance for better stability on hills. Funny thing finding round hoods, they seem to find you when you are not really looking ....... Bill
  7. oven cleaner and carbon removal

    Cod: I too have used spray on Oven Cleaner to de-carbon aluminum heads on several K161 and K181 engines. I find it works best if the head is warm before you apply it. Let it sit 20 minutes and rinse - any carbon left is easily removed with a Scothbrite pad. Bill
  8. Tire fluid

    Yes, winter windshield fluid is a good choice, but it is not as heavy as Rimguard, about 7 and a half lbs./ gallon vs. 11. You would want to use inner tubes with the washer fluid to protect the rims. I did just that on my 854 that has the 8 speed rear from a C-81 in it. I put 4 and a half gallons in each rear and a gallon and a quarter in the fronts. That greatly improved traction both plow and steer. Bill
  9. Interchangeable hoods?

    After I completed putting a 1979 C-81 8 Speed rear in my 854, I ran it with the shorter Air cleaner assembly and hood from a 702 - you need both parts to do that. The 854 hood is longer and has the two U-shaped stiffeners at the lower side edges. Bill
  10. Best way to remove broken shifter set screw in 702?

    Steve: With the shifter still in place,to apply pressure to the broken screw from the inside, you may try using either a 5/32 or 3/16 LEFT HANDED drill bit. Napa sells them. Drilling it will heat it up, the pressure applied to the handle towards the screw helps back it out. One other method I use for stripped ot hex on Button head screws - use a sharp pointed punch at an angle as far away from center as possible in the CCW direction - may help "walk" it out far enoufg to get pliers on it.
  11. Wow - talk about a flashback! I attended the now long gone RI Trade Shops School for Auto Mechanics in '72-'73. We saw these Master Tech training movies regularly, the same way the Mopar Technicians did, black and white 8mm shown on the wall, complete with scratchy audio .I always thought the voice of Master Tech was done by the same guy that did Popeye. Bill
  12. 702 vs. 753

    A picture of the left side will show an adjustable implement height stop assembly on a 753, the 702 has only 2 fixed positions. Also, the 702 had 2 bent straps at the base of the hoodstand, the 753 did not.The front axle and the steering wheel look like a 753. The 702 had a bolt on dash panel, the 753 has it as part of the tank. The 702 has a 2 position keyswitch and a momentary starter switch, the 753 has a 3 position keyswitch.
  13. Hello: The website does not mention either the belt groove width nor the groove depth / diameter, nor its overall width. You need it for a 4L (half inch wide) belt. I bought a different cast pulley from McMaster & I ordered it by pulley & outside diameter only to find the belt sat deeper in the groove. Seems they now sell a wider as well as deeper groove version to accomodate 2 different series of belts. I had to cut the sides back to make it thin enough to fit under my 854 belt guard. Then I needed a 69 inch long belt instead of the original 70 inch. Hope that helps. Bill
  14. Trans to frame reinforcing plate

    I had to repair & straighten the trans mount on my 854. Lots of years of plowing took its toll - plowing puts a lot of vibration and torsional twisting force into that area. I made a 1/4" plate and added 4 1/8" gussets. I drilled thru the frame plate in 9 spots and plug welded the plate in place. Once the welds were ground flush, I gouged out the cracks down to the reinforcement plate & welded that up too. The gusset plates go into the area nead the bolts. Problem solved. Bill
  15. 854 woodruff keys and brake drum

    Years ago, I worked for a local specialty Machine Tool builder. One of the many homemade tools we all had was an adapter to mate up a Vise Grip to a small dent puller slide hammer. Nothing more than a 4 inch long piece of threaded rod to replace the adjusting screw. the other end went into a 2 inch long piece of 3/4 inch hex stock, tapped to accept the threaded rod at one end and 1/2-20 at the other for the slide hammer. Lock onto the woodruff key at one end 90 degrees to the shaft, a couple of taps with the hammer and the key moves up out of the keyway and the out. This method applies force perpendicular to the shaft, unlike using a chisel inline to the shaft. Also works great on square cut flat keys, too. Bill
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