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ranger

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About ranger

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 11/18/1952

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    C121,312-8, RAIDER-10,WESTWOOD D1200.+2X FOUR LEGGED HORSES, FUELED BY GRASS.
  • favoritemodel
    C121

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ely. Cambridge. UK.
  • Occupation
    mechanical engineer
  • Interests
    Horses mechanical and organic

Recent Profile Visitors

895 profile views
  1. Needle Scalers

    If the tool does the job, and your not using it 24/7, then why pay higher prices. If you need it for a day job, it's a different matter. A good friend of mine, sadly passed on now, used to carry the cheapest set of spanners and screwdrivers under the seat in his car, he used to say, "if I break down, what good is a set of 'SnapOn' tools sitting at home when I'm broken down 100 miles away from them". " If I only use them once, they've paid for themselves!"
  2. ATV Winch Limit Switch

    Nice use of a winch Would it be possible to fit a limit switch in one of the wires so it breaks the circuit when raised, and add another button in parallel with the limit switch but the button would be "normally open". When the "up" limit is reached, the circuit is broken, release the up button, select down, and press additional button to re-make the circuit. The extra button could perhaps be foot operated ?
  3. Theroretical 8 speed question.

    Nice project, I don't think you'll need to gear down at all, with the gear reduction of the 8 speed, And your axles, you'll probably have to gear up to get to walking pace! You may be better off using a gearbox from a small front wheel drive car turned 90deg, driveshafts to the axles would also be easier to fabricate.
  4. I'd say the one pictured on page 103 of "Straight from the Horses Mouth". I believe only one was made.
  5. Tough to find crankshaft

    How about having the crank ground, the rod bored enough to have a white metal, (Babbit) insert poured in and machined. Older engines used to have the big ends done like this, Ford V8 flathead. YouTube has videos of the process. Look for Keith Fenner.
  6. I'll second that, Nord-lock washers are great where you have excesses of vibration and shock. We use them at work on various parts of runway cleaning equipment to reduce chance of 'F.O.D'.
  7. More shop art!

    Like it, a brilliant way to store your spare parts, you'll never forget where you've put them 🤔😃. Parts always on 'hand', ready to perform a ' timely' repair. 😀
  8. Small welding project today

    Nice bit of artwork Mr & Mrs Professor1990, and "recycling" to boot! Things like these made from old used/ worn items that have a 'history', always look much nicer than ones made from new parts, we see this kind of art for sale over here, but made from new bits they seem to lack "character". That's My opinion anyway! Doug.
  9. Small welding project today

    Made this for a friend as a Christmas gift, some of the shoes are from a pony he bred, which we now own, so some sentimental value there. Painted with wood stove paint, then cured by putting it in front of a diesel space heater for a while.
  10. One thing to be careful of with "easy outs" is using one that is too big compared to the broken bolt / stud you are trying to remove. If the hole you drill leaves too little metal left, you run the risk of the tapered " easy out" expanding the broken bolt in the hole and acting like an expanding anchor bolt in concrete. The ones I use are shaped like " Torx" bits, you drill a smaller hole, hammer the bit in, then use a socket wrench to undo. Some people I know actually use cheap "Torx" bits for this purpose.
  11. We get those calls over here also. It's usually " I'm from Windows"? "You have a problem with your computer", " You need to do so and so to give me access and I will fix it" My reply is " You are speaking to D.C. ( my initials ) Hall, Cambridgeshire I.T. Fraud Squad, who am I speaking to ?" Strangely enough, there is a 'click' and the line goes dead. ( D.C. = detective constable )
  12. 11-11-1978

    One of them lives near me, still got one of the cars, he,he, look for him as 'saw man' on you tube.
  13. Anyone tried a small cement mixer instead of a clothes drier?
  14. Trying to remove tight bearings when you can't get the proper tool on them can be a right pain. Using a grinder, if you can get it in is sometimes the only way. I find you only need to mark the hardened race with the grinding wheel, this creates a 'stress riser' in the hardened surface, just like using a glass cutter to cut a sheet of glass,then with the bearing supported on the opposite side, using a chisel in the grinding mark, give it a good whack with a hammer, this usually splits the race and it slides off the shaft. This is a method commonly used to remove rwd auto half shaft bearings.
  15. Old faithful with electric lift

    I hope I'm not 'high jacking' this post, but mention of the electric lift made me think that you may like to see my 'experiment'. A few weeks ago, using my C121, with cultivators on one of the horse paddocks, I managed to break the link to the rock shaft. Having some 're-cycled' linear actuators with failed feedback potentiometers, I thought I'd try one on the clevis hitch. Although 24 volts, they will work on 12 volts. push / pull force is listed as 2000n, around 450 lbs I think. I removed the rock shaft and welded a couple of lugs onto the fender support crosspiece, a short extension to the ram, and the unit fitted under the seat with room to spare. These units can be controlled by a simple double pole, double throw, switch, Not having one, I used a couple of 5 pin relays, advantage of using relays is, when not running, the motor terminals are joined together, providing/holding braking force if the load tries to move the actuator. Control is by a joystick, ( again re-cycled) this has a push button on top, which has to be pressed before anything else will operate. It has the power to lift the cultivators or discs, or me.Running it on 24v, it will lift the discs, and me. A magnet on the joystick box allows it to be mounted wherever convenient. The latest mod, is a link to allow 'floating' when down, and a 12v to 24v dc-dc converter, £10.00p from Hong Kong, via ebay. the next stage is a hydraulic cylinder in place of the linear actuator, the beauty of this is that it all fits without having to move the rear mounted fuel tank. I may fit bracing struts from the mounting 'lugs' down to the axle, but the crosspiece is stiffened by the 'sub frame' fitted to raise the fender for tyre (tire) clearance.
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