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About andrewLL

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Wheel Horse Information

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    Bucks, UK

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  1. Hi I have recently bought a cheap old gearbox mainly for the cast hubs that the wheels bolt to, then I thought as it turns a little but can't change gear or anything like that it would be interesting to look inside!! Do they all look like this? Can it be brought back to life? It's now soaking in a tub of paraffin to see if it will clean up. It's a 4 speed with high and low ratios with a 1 1/8" axle, I think I read somewhere that there are two sizes of axle. Any thoughts? Andrew
  2. Rotavator / Tiller spring

    Cleat thanks for the reply and sorry for not explaining the problem very well. The bracing bar I am referring to runs diagonally from below the small pulley wheel forward towards the rod that you referred to on the opposite side. I assume that it is to help stop the frame flexing and twisting. But with this in place it would foul on the tow hitch which runs down the centre line of the tiller. So could not raise and lower the tiller. Has that made the problem any clearer? all th best Andrew
  3. Hi, hoping that someone may be able to tell me what size spring I need for tensioning the drive belt on a tiller (length and diameter). I have recently purchased a tiller on fleabay which appears to have hardly been used as so much paint is still on the tines. The only part missing is the small spring that attaches to the idler pully and tensions the belt. The instructions are dated 1994 and the model is 79370 and I hope it will fit on to my 72 Raider. The other potential problem that I have is I am unable to remove the bar holding the tow hitch on. I have hit it as hard as I dare but don't want to risk cracking the transmission casing, all I can do is spray it with WD40 every so often and hope it eventually releases. Do you think it would seriously weaken the tiller if I cut out the diagonal bracing bar so I could fit it with the tow hitch in position. Any advice would be appreciated. Andrew
  4. Not charging. I think??

    The answer to the question about my MG is that it is a 1980 model. I'm sure someone will notice that the bumpers are not the standard black rubber things that had to be added to keep the U.S. regulators happy. Unfortunately changing the bumpers is not quite as simple as a straight swap. The front wings also had to be changed to ones with holes for the indicators and side lights, not that that was a problem as I replaced all the external panels except the bonnet and boot lid. The ride height was also raised on the rubber bumper models and that has been corrected with new springs front and rear. Thanks for all the helpful replies about my charging problem. Andrew
  5. I'm hoping that someone may be able to point me in the right direction here. I recently restored a Raider 12 and ran it around the garden briefly before taking it to bits and then out to France where I put it back together again. That was this time last year and I cut about half an acre of brambles and bracken. It was then used again in March and June with no problems, but recently having used it again, it would not start after a run. The starter was not turning and no click from the solenoid, but it started first go with jump leads onto the car and then stopped as soon as they were removed. I charged the battery which is only a year old and it worked fine. I guess it's not charging and that I have just been running it from the battery all the time. What I have remembered from when I stripped the machine down was that there was a question about this, but when it all went back together and ran ok I forgot all about it. I did measure the resistance across the alternator coils at the time and there was continuity but I can't remember the resistance reading. When the engine is running at idle speed the ammeter oscillates quickly from positive to negative but this stops when the engine revs are increased and settles down to a small discharge current, about the thickness of the needle. Any suggestions what this could be? The problem I have is that I am not going back to France for a few months and would like to take the necessary parts over to fix it. Also I have just bought a tiller to go on the back and will need some advice on the lift mechanism, but will put this as a separate post. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Andrew
  6. Homemade tachometer build

    This is very interesting, I had been trying to think how I could use an inexpensive car tachometer but could not find one for a single cylinder engine. They are generally switchable between 4, 6 & 8 cylinder modes so would need a circuit to reduce the number of electrical pulses to correspond to a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine. Your circuit seems much easier, did yet get finished and do you have a circuit diagram marked up with the component values? I'm sure I can translate the circuit on to some strip board and soldering up a circuit is no problem. Andrew
  7. Cutter Deck V Belt

    Thank you both for the help here. It's interesting that of all the possible suppliers in the UK you found the belts at Bearingboys, I have obtained replacement track rod ends from them for the steering. Regards Andrew
  8. Cutter Deck V Belt

    Hi, just hoping someone can help me with my cutter deck from a 1973 Raider 12. I have restored my rusty deck that was full of holes and it now works well but the belts are worn and near the end of their lives needing replacement. There was no identification plate on the deck so I don't know what part number / type it is to look up replacement parts. You can probably see from the picture that it is a 36" rear discharge deck, with two 12" blades and one 14" blade. The bearings are the one piece sealed bearing and shaft unit (part 103119), which I had to get shipped over from the States but was not as expensive as I expected. Is this enough to identify the deck? The belt on the deck is 1,910mm (75.25") long and 10mm wide tapering to 8mm on the inside. The main drive belt from engine around mule drive to the deck is 2,416mm (just over 95") long and 12mm wide tapering to 8mm on the inside. Both belts are worn and possibly stretched. Can anyone help with the Wheelhorse part numbers for these, and has anyone any experience with ordering standard industrial belts which are probably much less expensive. Thanks.
  9. Hi, could someone help me with the screw thread size and type for the wheel bolts on my Raider 12. The threads on the wheel hubs are very tight and difficult to bolt up, I imagine they are full of dirt and rust. As the threads on the bolt are clean it must be the hubs that need cleaning and I would like to buy a tap to clean them out... but what size. I don't have a thread gauge. Thanks Andrew
  10. Nearly finishes now

    Hi, just thought you may like to see some pictures of my Raider 12. I bought this as a project nearly two years ago to keep me amused but with the intention of using it to cut grass as I had just purchased a small barn in SW France with half an acre of grass. As always these things take longer than intended and other projects jump the queue. But its nearly finished now, only job is to cut some Perspex for the lights and put the replica decal on to finish the job and sort out the parking brake. I have the right angle piece of metal but can not work out how to fit it and did not take a picture before taking it all apart, can any one help with a picture as the diagrams I have seen have not been very clear. More importantly I have a fuel problem, I used the horse about four weeks ago to cut the neighbours grass and it ran and idled perfectly but today when trying to start it petrol poured out of the front of the carb. I got it started by clamping the fuel hose between the pump and carb with a Mole wrench and then when the engine was running removed the clamp. But it would only run fast and if the throttle was reduced it would run rich and stall. My thoughts are that there is dirt in the carb blocking the float valve but I rebuilt the carb and fitted new hosed and fuel filter so there should not be any dirt in the system. Is this the petrol 'going off' and sticky in the short period of idleness? The machine has been kept in a dry garage and the fuel is recent and works in my other mower, any suggestions here would be appreciated. All in all a successful project and only one part left over with out a home, but as it works it can't be too important. Just need to find some wheels and ag-tyres to complete the project. Next job is to take it all apart so it will go in the car and take it to France. Lastly thanks to Meadowfield for the decals that really finish it off. Andrew
  11. Lights!

    Hi Mark I'm restoring my Raider 12 and getting to the finishing off bits now and do not have a front lights plastic cover and had been thinking it may be possible to produce a sticker to put on some clear plastic. It appears that you have done just that here. Where do I get the sticker / decal from? Also (completely different subject) do you know what size Woodruff key I need for the input pulley on the side of the axle / gearbox, I've lost mine during the rebuild. It's an 8 speed box. I did ask this question before and someone from the States suggested a size but it was not a definitive answer, can you assist here. Thanks Andrew
  12. Hi, hoping someone can help me here. I'm now starting to reassemble my 1972 Raider having cleaned and repainted it. I remember putting the woofruff key for the main drive pulley on the side of the axle/gear box in a safe place where it would not get lost. In fact it was so safe I can't find it now. Can anyone tell me what size the key is? It's an 8 speed gear box. Any help here would be appreciated. Andrew
  13. Nuts & Bolts

    Bob, thanks for the help with the bolt sizes, I've now bought a selection of sizes and they are being fitted as it goes back together. As a point of interest for anyone not aware the number after the size in inches (20, 18 & 16) are the number of threads per inch. These correspond to the Unified Coarse series, there is also a Unified Fine series with more threads per inch. When ordering nuts and bolts it appears that all that is required is the size and thread type e.g. 1/4" UNC. plus the length if it's a bolt being specified. Andrew
  14. Hi This is my first restoration of a wheel horse, I've got a Raider 12 model 1-0350 made in Belgium. It's now been stripped and some of the parts repainted and I'm starting to put it all back together. can anyone tell me what the screw threads are so that I can replace some of the nuts and bolts. The imperial stock of nuts and bolts for my MGB are all a much finer pitch. I assume as it came from the US they will not be metric threads. The other question I have is the sticker on the side says Raider 6 speed, but it has an 8 speed gear box. When I replace the sticker I would like it to be correct. I hope someone can help here, and I'm sure there will be many more questions as the rebuild progresses. Help! I've just tried to attach a picture here but it's bigger than 1MB, although there appear to already be 4 pictures saved somewhere , are there any instructions on using this forum? Thanks Andrew