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Short Circuit

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About Short Circuit

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1973 14 AUTOMATIC, 1-0435
    1973 14 8-SPEED, 1-0340
  • favoritemodel
    1973 14 8-SPEED

Profile Information

  • Location
    N.E. Ohio
  • Occupation
    Old Iron Tinkerer
  • Interests
    Old Iron, Of Coarse!

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. '73 14 auto hydro rebuild question

    Sorry daveoman1966, I misread your handle...
  2. '73 14 auto hydro rebuild question

    Thanks for the reply daveoman1986. I had a hunch I could reverse it but I wanted some confirmation from someone other than myself. I'll follow your advise and flip it over after touching it up. Many thanks...
  3. Hello WH experts! I am currently inspecting my 1973 Auto trans pump/motor section and notice slight wear on the pump thrust plate that fits inside the swash plate. This is the item that the pistons ride against which varies the pump output based on the angle of the swash plate. I noticed some slight wear or groove on the thrust plate barely visible but I can feel it when I move my fingernail over it. Can this thrust plate be reversed as the other side is very smooth with no wear marks? I tried to sand the plate with 500 grit wet/dry paper and I would have to sand a lot to get the surface smooth. The plate measures .031" thick and I don't know how deep the groove is. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  4. It was a great day with mostly sunny skies all day, and mid 60's. I got the sunburn to prove it. I sold most of my WH parts and a few other things. It's a beautiful location in Ohio Amish country. They also are big in tractor pulls at this location. River valley antique tractor pullers association at the Harvest Barn, Sugarcreek, Ohio.
  5. As my name implies, look for the shortest guy there (5'3").
  6. I agree slim67. I missed a couple of years, but looking forward to attending this year with my pair of horses and some parts to sell. It's a nice local show and lots of variety of garden tractors. The show will go on rain or shine!
  7. Stripped Trans Drain Bolt

    I did the same thing on my transmission. I used a 7/16 or 1/2" nut and welded it to the plug on the inside of the nut so I wouldn't weld it to the trans housing. the plug came right out with a socket wrench!
  8. Kohler Fuel Pump Kits

    I purchased one of those kits for my fuel pump. It is a good kit. Make sure you seal the holes after you put in the pin for the lever or you will leak oil from the crankcase down the front of the block! I also flat sanded the diaphragm surfaces of the pump housing on a fine sand paper to make sure they were flat for a good seal. I used blue silicone gasket sealer on the (pump to block) gasket. It works great!
  9. Installing a tach sensor on my K321

    I am wanting to install a tachometer on my K321, and noticed under the flywheel housing on the aluminum bearing plate are some posts and hole perhaps for wiring and mounting a speed sensor bracket. There is also a machined bulge on the OD of the flywheel. Is this something that was used on some models of Wheel Horse tractors as a speed sensor or electronic timing setup?
  10. Machine shops near Ephrata Pa for k241 rebuild?

    I have a K321 Kohler engine which was pretty much worn out with a .014" undersize rod journal and already .030"+ overbore when I bought it. I contacted R & R Engine and Machine in Akron, Ohio to do the machine work to get it back to a useable condition. I had them install a stock bore size sleeve, and they ground the crank rod journal to .020" undersize to fit a new piston and rod I ordered from Kustom Law and Garden in Minerva, Ohio. sleeve installed and bored to stock size - $225 crank rod journal ground to .020" undersize - $60 piston/rod assembly from Kustom Lawn and Garden - $117 I put the engine together myself to save labor costs. I know this is a bit of a drive for you but these two shops have great parts and machine work. They will turn around your order or machine work in a week. The web sites: http://shop.kustomlawnandgarden.com/main.sc http://www.rrengine.com/index.html
  11. Balancing Gears - in or out

    I just came across this thread today as I ponder the balance gear question, and thought I would contribute to the old discussion. I don't think anybody contributed since 2013! I am rebuilding a totally worn out K321. (cylinder sleeve installed, new std. piston, and .020" under rod, wondering about the balance gears). I talked to a guy at Lakota Racing about the balance gears and he recommended leaving them in for a stock engine. In reading the threads on the balance gears, no one has ever mentioned the reason Kohler put them in there in the first place. In looking at the orientation of the gears and how they are timed to the crankshaft, I see the reason for them. There are two axis of vibration in the engine (this is a simple version). The major axis is the vertical axis of the piston/rod assembly in the cylinder moving up and down as the crank rotates. This vibration is opposed or "countered" by the counter weights on the crank. The other "axis" of vibration is the lower end of the rod on the crank as it rotates around, and this vibration is "countered" by the balance gears, but only in a horizontal axis at 90 degrees to the crankshaft, in other words front to back on a Wheel Horse. On a JD, Cub, or other application where the crankshaft is pointing front to back, the balance gear axis is horizontally left to right (90 degrees to the crank). I have two 1973 WH tractors with K321's. I am currently rebuilding one, but the other one is original engine and it runs really smooth even at idle. It still has the balance gears in it. I'm going to reinstall the balance gears after checking the needle bearings and the side clearance, to minimize the front to back vibration in the Kohler engine. Just my two cents worth...
  12. What other old iron addictions do you guys have?

    I have appreciated old iron "toys" of any kind. But mostly if they eat gas, oil and make noises. My first big toy was a 1957 Plymouth Belvedere that my brother and I put together. Then I got married and had to make room for her car. After that it was/is a Cushman farm engine. After that it is now two Wheel Horse tractors. Don't have pics of the WH's but here's the Plymouth and Cushman...

    Sorry I forgot to mention the polarity test you must do to determine the correct poles and orientation. There are three 'north pole" magnets and three "south pole" magnets. The north pole magnets have the north pole in the center and a south pole on each end. The south pole magnet has a south pole in the center, and north poles at the ends. These must be alternated as you place them around the radius of the flywheel. The other threads explain this in detail. Thanks for reading.

    I know this subject has been addressed in several other threads, but I wanted to add my experience to all the excellent help I used on this website to help me with my dilemma. I recently took my 14 hp Kohler engine flywheel to a machine shop to have them rebalance it along with the crankshaft, piston assembly, and rod. I got a call from the machine shop to tell me the magnets in the flywheel were loose and they couldn't balance it. When I went in to inspect the "damage", they informed me they hot tanked the flywheel, which to me was a mystery since there was no grease or oil on it to require degreasing. Evidently, the hot tanking loosened the adhesive holding the magnets. So after bringing home the mess, I set out to re-glue the magnets, but I wanted to reinstall them as precisely as I could to keep the original flywheel balance intact. So after doing some measuring with the magnets positioned in the flywheel, I came up with a solution to equally space the magnets precisely around the inside diameter of the flywheel when I re-glue them. I purchased two pieces of brass tubing, one square tubing and one round tubing, both with 7/32" outside dimension. Brass tubing is non-magnetic so the magnets have no affect on their installation or removal. I cut the square tubing into lengths of 2 5/8", and the round tubing into lengths of 1 1/4". I placed the square tubing behind the magnets to hold them out from the inner edge of the machined surface in the flywheel. This will place them in their original position to align them with the alternator stator assembly when the flywheel is installed on the crankshaft. The 7/32" round tubing spacers are used between the individual magnets to position them equally around the flywheel inside diameter. 7/32" diameter will do just that with no gaps in the spacing. The tubing is just finger tight when installed, and easily removable. After thorough cleaning, I glued the first magnet with JB Weld Original grey formula, and clamped it with a paper clamp as suggested in the hilarious video seen in another thread on this subject. Then after waiting overnight for the first magnet to set up, I glued the 5 remaining magnets to the flywheel with JB Weld Original grey formula, spacing them with the pieces of tubing as described earlier The brass spacers made the positioning very easy and precise! I have attached some pics for your inspection. Unclamped magnet is the first one installed I bought a fresh pack for my satisfaction...

    Thanks for your replies guys. I feel much better about pursuing this rebuild. Many thanks!