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About freeisforme

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  1. B-80 value?

    It looks a lot like the B-80 but uses an aluminum Briggs motor. I'm not sure if the frame is the same or not? Its 4 or so years newer, but still in that same time frame, so I guess its possible they just built a cheaper series with aluminum Briggs motors? I haven't seen it yet, all I know is what I found online about the 2500 model, but without having the two side by side its hard to judge size. I wasn't sure if the 'GT' series wasn't a completely different tractor. Has anyone had one that can say for sure?
  2. B-80 value?

    By the looks of it I could make one too. It looks time consuming making the latch parts but the rest don't look too hard. It would be easier if I had one to copy. The guy with the tiller never used it, he bought it with a parts machine but never had the pulley adapter. Is a tiller off a GT 2500 the same? That tractor has an aluminum Briggs engine. Its a bit of a drive but I can buy that whole machine with the tiller and drive complete for cheap. It just sounds like a smaller machine to me, if I knew the tiller and drive was the same I'd make the drive and go get it. (Its about a 3 hour round trip ride, probably about $40 in gas pulling a trailer up and back). If it won't fit its not worth the drive.
  3. B-80 value?

    I found a few pics in the gallery section of a tiller set up. There's a guy locally that's selling a tiller but he don't have or won't sell the adapter pulley parts with it. He wants $100 for the tiller, but its worthless to me without the whole set up. There's another tiller for sale that comes with a GT-2500 tractor, but the motor is bad. The seller said the motor don't have enough compression left to run. Its got a rear tiller and a snow plow with it, but the tractor itself looks smaller than my B-80? Will a tiller and plow off a GT 2500 fit my B-80?
  4. B-80 value?

    My neighbor should have it since he took off the 8hp motor. (the mounting plate for the K181). There's nothing on the motor now. For now the 14hp stays but I may still consider putting the 8hp back on. Do you have a pic of the spacer? It may well be in the pile behind his garage or hanging on his wall. He's not the kind to throw anything away. How does a rear tiller work on one of these? What powers it? Got any pics of the drive set up?
  5. B-80 value?

    That's about how much hangs over the frame. I removed the right rear tab, it looks like it was added and found the bolt holes to fit the holes in the underside of the pan. I think it may have been mounted wrong before since the paint witness marks are all farther rearward than where the motor sits now. It also fits the belt guards better. The 8hp looks to have sat bolted down to all four corner tabs on the motor. The pan for the 14hp is quite a bit larger. It looks like I need a longer throttle and choke cable, the way he had them run before they both ran right across the face of the fan shroud, he had tape over where they had rubbed through. The choke cable is way too short and the only way to make it work sets up the choke to work backwards. Up is off, down is choke on, opposite of how the dash is marked. When running without the deck, does the belt and mule drive stay on the tractor?
  6. B-80 value?

    He wanted the 12hp because it already had a flywheel drive set up, the tractor he needs it for drives only off the flywheel. The 12hp runs, it just need a good going over. I give up trying to figure him out. If it were me I'd have just swapped flywheel screens and added the drive adapter to the 14hp, but he wanted the 12hp since it's what his other machine came with. The 14hp is back in the WH now, basically just as it was when this whole deal began. My take is that it never had all four bolts in the motor, I put the motor back in the same spot where it was and only three holes line up. I don't see a hole to match up to the right front hole, either from below the frame into the pan or to the outer tab. The other three bolts are in tabs. The two on the flywheel side are in holes in the frame, the right rear goes through a bracket on the out side edge of the frame. The motor hangs over the frame about 1.5" or so.
  7. B-80 value?

    The whole B-80 deal took another twist yesterday, my neighbor came by and noticed I had a complete 12hp sitting on the bench, he apparently liked the 12hp better, so we traded. My old 12hp for the just rebuilt 14hp that he had on it in the first place. I notice in reinstalling the 14hp that the right, forward outermost bolt hole hangs over the frame. Is the accepted method here to just leave in unused or use a J bolt of some type? I also thought about making a small angle iron frame extension to reach out to that hole. How did the 14hp or any larger motor mount in those models that came factory with a larger motor? Was the frame different or just modified in some way?
  8. B-80 value?

    I had the seals, they were SKF 11050. (1 1/8" axles). There was some weed trimmer line wrapped up around the left axle, I figured that had a lot to do with the seal starting to leak. The right side was a bit caked up with old grass. Another problem was that the transaxle was filled to the top. I drained it thinking that maybe there could be water inside causing the oil to float, but all I got was gear oil in the pan. I refilled it with 90w-140 gear lube. The old oil was pretty clean, no metal, no water. I guess someone figured it should be filled to overflow rather than to mark on the dip stick.
  9. B-80 value?

    Both hubs came right off, I loosened the set screw and tapped them right off. They're not dripping oil but just wet. I pried out a seal and will match one up at the bearing supply today. I may even have a seal to fit, several years ago I trash picked a CR seal assortment from a defunct auto parts store. Its bailed me out dozens of times. There's got to be 5,000 seals or more. If I can find a CR part number, the search will be easy. I took a ride to a local flea market Sunday morning, I picked up an overhaul kit for a Kohler engine, the guy wasn't sure if it fit a 10 or 12hp Kohler. He bought it for a Cub Cadet and never used it. I figured for $15 I couldn't lose. I have to do some measuring to see which engine its for. Maybe I got lucky and it fits one of these motors I've got here. The 12hp that my neighbor first bought for this thing is already bored for a new piston, maybe I'll get lucky. The deck won't need much more than a good cleaning, the paint is decent and there's little to no rust underneath. The only rust is a few paint chips on the belt cover. Most of what you see is just dust and a few scrapes on the ends from rubbing past things while cutting grass. Something I always wanted to have is a tractor with a mid blade grader, this may be a prime candidate for that. I've got a few old acetylene tanks I can use for a blade, and I can use the factory lift to raise and lower it. My need for a rear tiller ended yesterday as well, I picked up a Bolens with a rear tiller that needs some work on the motor. The ignition switch fell apart and the guy tried to hot wire it with 12v and fried the ignition module. The only two items I need to find for the B-80 is a hood latch and a headlight panel. The rest is all paint work and installing a motor.
  10. B-80 value?

    Did WH change the color of red they used over the years? The deck on this thing is more red than the rest of the tractor. I notice that some look to be more of a Tomato red than say an apple red color. No doubt the B-80 I just bought needs a paint job, so the first order of business will most likely be to strip it down and repaint everything from the start. While I'm by far not looking to restore it, I do want to preserve it. I did notice that the rear axle seals are wet looking, so two new seals are in order. I was surprised that the hubs came right off. I'll leave the original tires, they're not cracked and have good tread, but the rims need new paint. I'm not sure if I'll bother with the hubcaps or not, they have some surface rust and pitting and it may look better just with clean painted wheels. I also want to get a pair of rear wheel weights for it. I'll need to find a hood latch assembly and a headlight panel. Depending on cost, I'd consider adding headlights, that is if the original headlights are bright enough to be effective. I'll pull the deck off and clean it up a bit and take a few pics, I guess it goes on CL. Maybe selling the deck will cover the cost of the tractor. Does the front mule drive work with other attachments or is it only for the deck? I'd like to find a rear tiller set up for this and a hitch so I can pull a plow and disc in the garden in the future. I have a Brinly plow and double gang disc set up for a sleeve hitch already.
  11. B-80 value?

    The new engine would have been nice, it would have pretty much meant it was usable as it sat at least for right away. Either way the 8hp runs fine. I also have a few other motor options but I have to check out those motors. I know I've got a 12hp Kohler in the shed that came from some sort of masonry cart. It looks rough but it ran. I believe its the same basic engine as the 14hp. I have the larger pulleys and clutch from the 14hp, as well as the voltage regulator that was on the tin, and a box of spare parts he had. He also gave me the parts motor, which I believe is a 12hp too, but its got very little compression. The head is off it, there's a pretty serious ring ridge and a lot of piston rock in that motor. He also gave me two spare carbs, not sure which one is for what yet. I've got an array of motors here, but not that many Kohler motors. Most are Briggs or Wisconsin. The deck is different than the one on the B-80 pictured above by bowtie, the bearing covers on mine are open ended. It don't match any of the decks in the 1977 Brochure I found online. Do newer decks interchange? I know he bought a deck for it a few years back, I'm not sure what was on it before.
  12. B-80 value?

    When I got the 8hp from him, it still had the clutch and pulleys on it. I have those here. He took the 14hp off it today, he's trying to make it work in another tractor. I made a deal for the tractor only, no motor, some cash and two new tires I had here that fit his new project. I figured they were worth about $50 for the pair. So now I have a B-80 with no motor, just waiting for me to swap in the original motor. What is a good used deck worth?
  13. B-80 value?

    Just another thought, since I don't need it to cut grass, what is the deck alone for one of these worth? I'd bet money on it that a good washing and that deck would look almost new. There's no rust and its super smooth and quiet. If I can sell the deck and recoup some of the cash, then I can own it really right and put the original motor back on it. Its over 36" but I didn't crawl under it and measure the cut width. My guess is 42 or 44" or so. He says it won't fit between the wheel wells on his Chevy half ton pickup, he said it has to rid with one pair of wheels on the tailgate. He went digging for receipts for the new deck but never came up with them. Apparently he's owned this tractor since 1984, which was the oldest receipt he dug out for it.
  14. B-80 value?

    I'd love to get the thing for $200 or $250 but he won't budge, when I tried again this evening he dragged out all his receipts from the engine swap. Apparently he bought a 12hp engine to rebuild for it, then found the 14hp new in the box at some dealer. The odd parts I see on the motor are off the motor he bought, which he said was painted aqua blue. The dealer found him the shroud and other cooling tin, plus a new carburetor. They rocked him $75 for the tin, $599 for the engine, and $145 for the carb. Then another $285 in labor. They also replaced both belts, three blades, and the ignition switch which was marked 'used'. He was mad about the carb because he says the 'new' carb don't have the same adjustments that the older ones had? It seems to run fine. He also dug out a receipt for a new starter he bought online for $121. for what ever reason he just stopped using it. When I saw it go outside under a tarp, I asked him what he plans to do with it, especially after all that work. His response was that he'd sell it if he thought he could get his money out of it. When I asked how much that is he came up with $599, but said if I wanted it, he'd take $400 cash. I think he's been thinking harder about how much that motor cost him and don't want to let it go now. He's sounding like he wants to let it go without the motor now. He's got a Jacobsen sitting there with a blown 16hp in it that turned up the other day. He keeps complaining about how small the WH is and he feels cramped on it, he raised the seat so high he had 4x4 blocks on the pedals so he can reach. He's well over 6' tall, but the seat is set way upward, and way back. I'd have to put that back the way it came from the factory too. I was looking for an older looking machine that I could use around the yard, an never owned a WH, so this looked perfect. It'll mostly pull a wagon and move my boat trailer into the back yard when winter comes. If I can find a snow plow for it, that would be great too, I'd really like to have a rear mounted tiller but I'm not sure how common those are for an older machine. The way I left it was that if he wanted $400, I'd take it, if he had to keep the motor, I'd give him $100, but he went on about how the transaxle, rear wheels, and hubs were worth $150 by themselves. So its $150 or nothing minus the motor. I snapped a pic of it. (It also got a new feature today, he had a bucket of compressor oil from his shop compressor sitting under the tarp on the hood, which he proceded to dump all over the hood and front of the tractor when he yanked the tarp off tonight. On the bright side, it left the hood nice and shiny red. It matched the rest of the machine prior to the oil treatment. Here's a pic:
  15. Parts Washer Solvent

    The tank only gets to about 115 degrees or so. They both read right on the label to only use mineral spirits or certified parts cleaner solution. The one also states not to use water soluable solvents, which I assume is due to corrosion. (Any parts cleaner tank can have issues with water, since it tends to lay on the bottom and corrode the tank from the inside out). The element isn't directly in the tank, at least not on the smaller tank, its in a resovoir which doesn't come in contact with the parts, about 4" of the rear of the tank is screened off and protected via a mesh filter. When the agitator is running, the fluid runs from front to back, along with air bubbles rising from the bottom. Its amazing how fast that tank will clean off something like an engine block compared to a cold parts tank. In the summer I rarely run the heater, just the air agitator or pump. I've also got a small ultrasonic washer but so far I'm not impressed with it. I bought it for cleaning fragile parts but so far its not as great as I've been led to believe. It takes off loose dirt and grease fine but don't seem to do anything for baked on grease or carbon. It may well be that I've not found the right cleaning solution yet though. I would think that for the home user, a simple 50/50 mix of Dawn dish soap would do a pretty decent job on most greasy parts and eliminate a lot of the nasty chemicals to dispose of. You would be amazed at how much that stuff goes to work on grease. It won't touch paint or undercoating though and the presence of water also induces rust if the cleaned item isn't sprayed with some sort of oil pretty quick. Over the years I've had heated caustic tanks, (way too much trouble and way too nasty to clean up after), heated spray washers, (great but noisey and expensive to run and they take up a lot of space). A basic soak tank and then a shallow parts washer for small parts works best for lower volume work. Safety Clean will also service a customer owned tank if you wish as well. From what I can tell, Safety Clean's solvent is a mineral spirits based solution too with additives to slow evaporation and stop corrosion.