Jump to content

infernus

Members
  • Content count

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About infernus

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 09/10/1983

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1977 Wheel Horse C160 Automatic
  • favoritemodel
    '77 C160

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Bend, WI
  • Occupation
    ASE Master Certified auto mechanic

Recent Profile Visitors

466 profile views
  1. Voltage Regulator ID

    The part number referenced in that thread references a regulator with a different connector than what I have. Looks pretty much like what I have: https://www.stens.com/435-024-voltage-regulator What that thread suggests: http://www.partselect.com/PS9255106-Toro-101450-Regulator-Rectifier.htm
  2. Voltage Regulator ID

    So after replacing basically the entire fuel system sans tank, I noticed the jump pack I've been using to start it was showing 17 volts while I was tuning my brand new carb. Granted the battery in the tractor is LONG dead. However, rule of thumb in the automotive world is a range of 12.8-14.6V for a healthy charging system and 12.6V for a 6 cell lead acid battery at 100% charge. My next step in the resto/getting her going again was to replace the battery, but after seeing this I want to replace the voltage regulator first. I pulled the old (original) regulator out looking for a part number, and all I found was "REPCO FG-4175-01" Any ideas? I cannot seem to find a Kohler (or Wheel Horse) cross reference. It's a 15 amp 12 volt system.
  3. So, I destroyed my carburetor

    That's what I did... ordered the replica carb. $45 Works great, but yeah that choke shaft being upside down was a project in itself. Both screws broke off in the old choke shaft, so I had to drill and tap (new carb choke screws are 3mm-0.5) and broke 3 drill bits in the process lol. Once that was taken care of, I tuned it a little. Now I just need a battery and a voltage regulator and I should be ready to put it to work.
  4. So, I destroyed my carburetor

    I cracked open my very dirty carb for my C160 today since the whole fuel system was gummed up bad to start a rebuild. I pulled the needles out and cleaned it up a bit. There was corrosion on the throttle plate, so I attempted to remove that, and broke a screw head off and got the other one out no problem. I successfully drilled out and retapped the throttle shaft. Then on to the main jet that was REALLY stuck, bad enough where I was mungin' it up pretty good. So I decided to use the torch... having some success heating aluminum. Nope, not this time... it turned to mud in a heartbeat. That ended that project. So anyways, I see there are new carburetors for fairly cheap. Is that something I can get through my dealer (they're closed today) or am I better off getting one online?
  5. K341 Head

    Never double gasket. You might as well not use a gasket at all then... they'll leak for sure. Take it to a machine shop like Napa or Bumper to Bumper that does machine work like valve grinding and flywheel resurfacing... they can deck it for a couple bucks. I wouldn't worry about it bumping compression up much.
  6. Really! It's hard to stress how important it is to metal prep and use a good primer for the LONG term. Ordinary primer/fillers are not the BEST primers for preventing rust and not the best for filling deep pits either! Yeah hitting it with a wheel never worked well for me. A DA sander with 60 grit... that works well but you need the material there otherwise you'll have nothing left . I had a metals teacher in tech school tell me that ferrous oxide (rust) has a stronger surface hardness than carbon steel. And if it's an already crappy material to begin with you're fighting porosity too.
  7. A wire wheel is not enough, you have to acid prep rust to kill it. Then prime it. A guy at work suggested using old fashioned lead for filler...
  8. I'm confident I could handle straightening the dents in my hood, however I've got rust pitting and am unsure of what filler to use that's going to stand up to being in very close proximity to the exhaust outside of JB Weld, which probably is a real pain to work with as a filler.
  9. C160

    Looks good. DId you use any filler? Did you DA the panels? I need to do this to my C160, and I have some pitted rust in the hood near the muffler. I'm not confident that glaze putty or bondo is going to hold up to the heat of that muffler.
  10. New Member, 1st post

    Bump. I haven't been here in 3 years... and that's about how long she's sat in storage. Life got in the way lol. I just brought it into work this past weekend and I've been working on getting it running. I've thrown a whopping $70 at it so far in front wheel bearings, fuel tank bushing (it fell apart when I tried to drain the tank... huge stinky mess), fuel line, petcock, filter, hose, carb rebuild kit and a spark plug. I got it to pop on starting fluid before I messed with anything, which was very encouraging. Today I just picked up & assembled the fuel parts, haven't done the carb yet, but it DID run on it's own fuel supply for about 10 seconds and the motor flooded and gas started spilling out of the front of the carb. Next stop is the carb rebuild.
  11. C160 Exhaust opinions

    I'm trying to figure out how I could route the pipe out the back like a car without it getting in the way of anything. Thats my latest tomfoolery anyways...
  12. Need wheel bearings

    I found the model number... It's a 4 digit number just below the serial number. It's 6191, whatever that means. Still a C160 to me... And thanks for the pointers! I'm hoping to get the bearings all replaced so I can get the mower deck off and figure out what's all broken on the lift mechanism.
  13. C160 Exhaust opinions

    Interesting... I didn't know you could get a new OEM muffler. Knowing that, I'll have no problem dissecting the original muffler to see what's inside. It is indeed pretty darned loud as it is. LOL, nice. I'm sure I'll have some pretty easy interchangability, since the exhaust more or less clamps on to the threaded pipe.
  14. C160 Exhaust opinions

    My C160 has a muffler that's been fixed (read: boogery, stick welds to fill rust holes ) way too many times. My question to you is, since I have access to an exhaust pipe bender (and obviously a MIG welder), should I try to replicate the OEM design, bend up a new system with fresh (and even stainless) steel, or buy a used one from some supplier or another member? And, if I go self-made, do I try to route the exhaust in the OEM location, somewhere down by the mower deck like a side pipe, out the back, or a stack? And, what muffler do you suggest? Or straight pipe and wear ear plugs? Your opinions are appreciated and will be considered heavily with your input for reasons why. Thanks.
  15. Need wheel bearings

    I took the "good" bearing on the opposite side out with a drift & hammer. It seems to be ok, I know it's a low-speed application, but I'm a "while you're in there" kind of guy, so I'll be replacing both. I even got a little uptight and replaced the grease zirk in the hub. I suppose I'm envisioning flawless, appliance-like reliability when I'm done doing a thorough once-over on the 'Horse. After 35 years, who knows what needs to be adressed, I was only really around the old gal for the last honest 22 years (I was born in '83), and only witnessed some of the butchery and shade-tree shenanigans of my father and grandfather.
×