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About pycoed

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    A 800
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Glam
  • Occupation
    Ex IT, now retired (whooo hooo!)
  • Interests
    Dogs, hunting, shooting, fishing, metalwork, digging ponds, fighting rushes.

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  1. Why not just scribe around the good one & file one up from some 1/4" steel? If you insist on it being hardened then use some 1/4" guage plate ( I think you call it O1 over there?) & harden to your desired spec. I have a lathe so I always turn up Woodruff keys to fit whatever is necessary - I've used aluminium alloy for some deck drive spindles which are still OK after some serious abuse.
  2. I've recently resurrected a 36" deck with these spindles. There's no need to press bearings in from top & bottom. There's a flange at the bottom, plus the chamfer you noticed was missing & both these features are worth keeping. I just bored out the spindle to accept two new easily obtained bearings (1 5/8X3/4X7/16" IIRC) & used a spacer (as you correctly surmised) to locate the pair. You need to machine a couple of grooves in the bottom flange so that the bottom bearing can be drifted out in future The bottom bearing is pressed in from the top until it sits on the original flange, the spindle is pressed through, then the spacer, then the top bearing is pressed in over the spindle & retained when the spindle housing is bolted to the deck. 'Twould have been a lot easier to explain if I'd taken some pictures when I was doing it Now if it would only stop raining I could actually use the damned thing again - at the moment I need a U boat rather than a Wheelhorse here.
  3. Where are these "hoods", "fenders" & a "gas tank" ? I can only see pictures of bonnets, wings & a petrol tank Great stuff Ian!
  4. Right Ian, I didn't realise those axles were unsupported at the outboard side. I think you are right about the distance between the sprocket & the bearing being the issue here Looks like this axle & its opposite number will require a bearing mount nearer the plane of the load - perhaps a second bearing block tight to the sprocket & mounted using studs through the new block AND the existing one? I bent that digger rod purely due to operator error. i.e failure of the nut holding the controls! I was digging some really stoney stuff in a stream bed to pipe the stream & bashing away quite merrily (my tractor is only 45hp so not exactly an open-caste mine digger!) when I suddenly noticed the dipper wouldn't extend - I was amazed to see the reason why. Lesson learned the hard way about the power of hydraulics, eh?
  5. Looks nasty Ian - I can't see how that could have bent - either the outboard bearing block must have moved or the transmission must have twisted. Either way there MUST have been some relative movement between that pair, so..... how is the other end of the rear pair? Shouldn't be too difficult to straighten - try a hydraulic pipe bender or a press with vee blocks supporting the straight bits. You'll need to get centre holes in each end of the axle so you can spin it in the lathe & use a DTI to check for straightness. Does the mandrel hole of your lathe accept the diameter of the axle? If not, it may be better to take it to someone with a bigger lathe so you can get centres put into it, then it'll be just trial & error with the press & then DTI. Cheer up - it's not that badly bent - have a look at this hydraulic rod from my back actor!! :-
  6. Tremendous stuff Ian. Lovely to see her doing what you designed her to do. Front & rear linkage would be great as the next stage? I bet you feel marvellous, after all the hiccoughs along the way, to actually get a test drive like that: project delivered , as designed!
  7. Glad to see you back on track(!) after a spell, Ian. Your output puts us all to shame. All I can offer at present is a decoke & ignition fault on an old 8hp Kohler from the A800 & then I lost fifth gear on my 4X4, so its box & transfer box out at the mo. so Wheelhorses have to wait in order of priorities
  8. My WH anti-rodent attachment

    Those of us in UK that work terriers use an old chainsaw (minus the bar & chain!) with a hose connected to the exhaust to put down rat holes while the terriers await the fun! A strong oil mix does the trick, & Rattus Norwegicus is introduced swiftly to his maker via Mr. J Russell (& his friends from Patterdale, the Lakes & the Border). If you search Youtube for ratting with terriers you'll see some of the results.
  9. Hi from West Glam

    New to this forum, though had Wheelhorses for 15 odd years now. I first got the bug with a 211-3 bought as a non runner, then found out that the C series were a different kettle of fish! Sold the refurbished 211-3 & got a C -121 as a non runner, got it going easily enough & then got another c-101 with a 48" deck in lovely rust free condition with completely shot spindles (how does that happen???). Finally found a non runner A800 locally that only took me 10 mins to get going. Probably going to make a new deck from scratch for the C -121 this winter (the welds on the welded rewelds are going!) & must get around to making some new spindles for the 48" deck. Have plans for a 6X4 for the C-101, but really need to finish the house first. Also have a proper tractor UTB 445DT (4WD) for the heavy work on the a smallholding - largely marsh) which desperately needs a new pivot/bushes for the front axle too.
  10. Just found this thread, or should I say saga! Two things strike me: you have to get all three wheels each side turning together reliably. The only way you are going to do this is with chains & sprockets. Anything else will certainly fail in mud. Relying on friction isn't going to do it on anything other than dryish grass. You could try timing belts & pulleys from a scrappy, but I don't think they are up to the job - a lot of torque on the output end of a gearbox. Bearing Boys list 3/4 chain sprockets (say 16 tooth) at £8 & duplex sprockets at £15. 2X £15 plus 4 X £8 & away you go. Bound to find some 3/4 chain from a scrappy? Second thing is the tyres have way too much air in them. Without suspension you only have sidewall deformation to ensure all three wheels stay in contact with the ground & can provide traction. I notice on the last video even on a nice flat grassy field that the directly driven wheels are tending to spin & place a lot of strain on the belts & pulleys. Argocats use about 2 psi in the tyres so letting yours down to that may be worth a try? Hell of a project though!!!