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MarkPalmer

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MarkPalmer last won the day on October 13 2012

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About MarkPalmer

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    Senior Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1962 Wheel Horse 867
    1970 Jacobsen Super Chief 1200
    1981 Cub Cadet 682
  • favoritemodel
    T-867

Profile Information

  • Location
    Erie, PA

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  1. K181 flywheels

    The simple answer is yes, the two flywheels (starter/gen and gear type starter) are interchangeable with the K181 and the conversion to starter/gen is an easy one provided you have all the parts. -Mark-
  2. I had this same sort of thing happen with this putzo of a kid my mom knew. She told me there was an old JD tractor sitting by a scrap pile where she worked, she thought they were just junking it and that I might want it. I went to look at it, and it was a REALLY beat up 140 H1, barely restorable with virtually everything needing addressing, but I thought perhaps I could make something of it with a lot of effort if I got it really cheap or better yet free for hauling it away. I told my mom to ask if they wanted to sell it or ? Turns out it was given to the business owner’s kid, who was in his early 20’s. He told my mom he would take no less than $800.00 for it. I was eating breakfast at the time, and laughed so hard I spit my Cheerios out of my mouth! I told my mom he must want to sell it to support his crack habit, because he’s obviously smoking it. -Mark-
  3. Kohler K91S

    The 31673A is just a basic spec K91 with starter generator, it wasn't made specifically for any manufacturer or a specific purpose. An "off the shelf" complete replacement engine so to say. Sorry it wasn't used in something exciting until your tractor -Mark-
  4. Kohler K91S

    I’m thinking the G in your spec should be a number 8, if so K91 spec 31873A references to Kifco Ag Rain, who made (and still make) irrigation sprinklers. Just a big old guess, but the engines might have been spares for large sprinklers used by the RV manufacturer to test RV’s for water leaks. -Mark-
  5. Kohler K91S

    Do you have a spec number on these engines? If so, if its in one of my books I can possibly figure out who they were made for and what the purpose was. Most generator engines have tapered PTO shafts, but it could still be a possibility. The S variant of the K91 isn't something that you come across every day, the starter/gen and other items probably cost as much to provide as the engine itself cost back then. That bluish-green color was a common Kohler replacement engine color in the 1960's. -Mark-
  6. K321 won't stay running.

    Scratch the 8 HP pump from the list, it is different. The 10-12-14-16 HP "big block" mechanical pumps are the same. -Mark-
  7. Shipping a motor

    This applies to packaging anything. The standard, “rule of thumb†and question to ask when packaging in a taped cardboard box that will be shipped UPS, USPS or FedEx is will the package withstand a 3 foot drop in any direction without the contents being damaged? Sounds like a lot? This is derived from the scenario if the package falls from one of their transport conveyors, which it’s well known that they do on occasion due to the volume of packages they ship. When you are attempting to ship a 70-80-100 pound plus engine that way, it is simply too much for cardboard and tape to withstand, regardless of what you put inside to pad it. It also aggravates package handlers to the point they aren’t going to go out of their way to be gentile with it- quite the opposite. If it’s something stupid that can be returned, no big wash. But when it’s an old engine that is rare, valuable or unique and it gets ruined, many times there is no way that any amount of money can replace it. Crates are handled differently by shippers who handle crates. They know and expect the contents to be heavy, hence no surprises, and that it should only be handled facing in the direction marked up. It’s still not a perfect thing with a 100% guarantee, but gives an engine the best chance of survival when shipping. (This comes from my days as a general freight trucker. LOL.) -Mark-
  8. Shipping a motor

    Many of the lighter weight engines aren't a problem when packed the right way in a substantial (double wall minimum) cardboard box. My experiences have been if they are much over 60 lbs though, cardboard isn't adequate. Myself, I don't mind paying the extra cost of shipping a crate as assurance the engine arrives in one piece. With some antique/classic engines, one crack during shipping and the engine goes from being a jewel to a paperweight, and it's heartbreaking when one arrives at your door that way. I have two 1946 Clintons sitting in my storage area with their blocks damaged during shipping because they were shipped in single wall boxes with little padding and spent the whole trip beating their way out of the box. -Mark-
  9. Shipping a motor

    To ship engines under 60 lbs: 1. Drain all fluids from the engine. 2. Remove, if possible, any components that are sharp or protruding from engine and pack them separately. 3. Get a roll of bubble wrap with the LARGE (approx. 1 inch) bubbles. Wrap the engine COMPLETELY in ALL directions with at least 6-8 inches of bubble wrap, and tape it securely. Basically you make the engine in to a ball of bubble wrap. Other forms of “protection†such as newspaper, packing peanuts, foam from your old couch cushions, or those big air filled pillows are virtually worthless in holding back a heavy engine so don’t bother with them. 4. Get either a DOUBLE WALL box of appropriate size, or better yet form a true double box by fitting one single wall box inside another. Single wall boxes used alone when shipping an engine are the number one reason an engine gets damaged. Number two are the worthless packing materials listed above. 5. Pack engine in box, and make sure it doesn’t move around a lot. Use extra bubble wrap to fit the wrapped engine snugly in the box. Tape box securely. 6. To do it right and have the best assurance against damage, any engine weighing much over 60 lbs. (this includes most of your cast iron Kohlers and the like) needs to be crated in a fully enclosed minimum ½ inch thick plywood crate with the engine bolted to a wooden support secured to the crate that won’t allow the engine to move if the crate is tilted in any direction. This in addition to draining the fluids. As long as the engine can’t move, no additional packing is needed. I send these instructions to everyone I buy a small engine from off of E-Bay. I have had too many collectible engines and blocks get cracked or broken through shipping by packaging that was a complete effortless joke. -Mark-
  10. Restoring 704 Wheel Horse with 7HP Kohler K161T

    Those sleeves with the stepper key work good, and the crank is more than strong enough. You might need an air die grinder to help with the fitting though, they aren't a perfect fit -Mark-
  11. About to give up on removing my C-160 flywheel

    I lernt a long time ago not to listen to neighbors... my response would have been: "Yeah, but it ain't yours..." Yep. I knew better. Can anyone tell me whether I can scour eBay for any k341 flywheel, or is there something specific about the one on the c-160? Thanks!! You just need one with the starter gear and rotor magnet, a very common flywheel. Did the old one ever pop off? -Mark-
  12. k181 engine colour

    Kohler complete replacement engines came in either a blueish-green glossy paint, (almost a turquoise color) or black. Short blocks and mini-blocks were most often just primer gray. The blue in that picture looks more like the Ford blue, the engine might have been transplanted from one of the old Jacobsen built Fords. -Mark-
  13. Kohler kt 17 qs series 2 engine

    The cam breaking is the only way this could happen. But what is curious to me is how the engine could have any compression if the cam did indeed break. I have not heard of this on the KT's, and can't find anything related to it surfing the net. A new one for the books for sure. -Mark-
  14. Decarbon piston & head cause higher oil consumption?

    This might hold true for automotive engines, and I can see the logic with an all aluminum small engine. Yet on a cast iron Kohler engine where you are only using 20-25 ft/lbs of bolt torque to hold an aluminum head down to an iron block with a composite gasket sandwiched in between, the cylinder doesn't likely distort enough to be of any factor with ring seating or oil consumption. De-carbonizing the piston and chamber on an L head engine every 500 hours or so will do more to prevent oil consumption from contamination wear than it should to cause it. With modern OHV mower engines, de-carbonizing is not necessary and most don't recommend doing it. -Mark-
  15. Walbro vs. Carter......Which is better

    Personal opinion, but to me the Carters seem to tune easier and run the engine smoother. But I have used Walbros that worked decent too, and they were Kohler's latest designs used, mainly for emissions reasons. -Mark-
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