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About eddiebunyan

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  • Birthday 11/23/1956

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    68 REO,71 CG-8,71 Bronco-14,(2) 72 Bronco-14's,73 Automatic-18,74 C-120,(2)74 C-160's,75 A-80R,76 D-250,78 C-141,79 A-81E,88 257h,97 520h bucket loader
  • favoritemodel
    18 automatic

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  1. Pulley size

    Got a friend of mine with a 75 C-100 8spd.He wants to know if he puts a pulley that is half the diameter as the original,on the transaxle and a shorter belt,will it go twice as fast or at least faster??Anyone ever try that?
  2. 18-K

    I saw it on marketplace.The guy had it in a wheel horse puller,so I'm sure he put it in.
  3. 18-K

    Would the OHV .be considered a "K"?Talked to my local small engine dealer who's been in the buisness for 35 years and use to work for a dealer in the 70's that sold wheelhorse and Bolens. He said he's only seen one 18 and that was in a economy tractor.I asked the guy if he could get me the engine model number ,so we'll see.
  4. 18-K

    Got a guy who insists he has a 18hp single cylinger "K" engine in a wheel horse??Never heard of one??
  5. HELP!! Bronco 14 not starting and its snowing heavy!

    I had the same problem with my Bronco years ago.If I hadn't started it for a while(say a week or so) she would just crank and crank.I found that if I took the plug out,put some gas in the cylinder and reinstalled the plug it would fire and run then die! Put gas in the plug hole a second time and it would fire and run fine.Somehow my fuel pump was drainig back to the filter(had to be losing the vacume in the line somewhere) causing fuel starvation.If I started it often I had no problem,just long periods between stars.Always worked for me and most times only took filling spark plug hole once!Just relating my experiance.
  6. D-250's

    From what I hear and read the D250's are rare, yet it seems a good amount of members own at least one! Is there a registry for them ?Is someone keeping track of how many are still around? Any numbers on how many were made?
  7. Hard top cab

    Thanks, I'll give that a try first.
  8. Hard top cab

    I bought a 257h that came with a hard top cab but you can hardly see through the plastic! has anyone replaced the plastic windows in theses??
  9. OOps, 520H did it again

    Hey wildman,just a thought.I bought a 520h that the fins where missing on the fan.When I was replacing it I spun the fan after i secured it and the fins were hitting.I realized that the fan could go on either way but there was a 1/4 inch differance(towards the transaxle) as opposed to turning it around and it had clearance.The guy who put the replacement fan on didn't check that and the first time he used it ,it chewed all the blades off!
  10. 1532 cap needle bearing

    My"extra" gasket is just like the one in the third picture.Does that fit another application,or did they perhaps revise the gasket by adding more material to cover the case edge better??
  11. 1532 cap needle bearing

    When rebuilding my auto-18 transaxle I couldn't find the pump gaske t#5955 so I did like someone said to use a "napa' gasket material and make my own..After that I saw on e-bay someone selling a "Toro #102759 gasket" geez it looked just like the #5955 gasket,so I bought one.When it arrived I realized(because I still had the "what was left of the original gasket" that it indeed was the #5955 gasket but updated to the Toro #102759 number.He had 5 left so I scoffed 4 of them up,leaving one for someone else?He sent me all 5 because one of them was not like the others!Same bolt pattern,same hole size's but a little short on gasket material on the top right and left side from bolt hole to bolt hole Earlier?? Still would work though.Toro didn't seem to recognize #102759 as that gasket??Perhaps the guy had "old stock" that was misnumbered??Good for me!
  12. 1532 cap needle bearing

    That is beautiful! You decided to use allen head bolts on front and rear outside threads??Is there a tourque for the manifold bolts??
  13. 1532 cap needle bearing

    Sorry for the confusion,The cap bearingis4-13(1532) That holds the end(pump side) of 4-29 The upper right one in the picture above, showing the pump mounting face.I bought a half case off of e-bay and that bearing that I pressed out was crushed on the inside .I thought maybe the person had tried to press it out from the inside and just crushed the face of it but now I'm thinking perhaps he ran into the same problem on a previous rebuild.When he bolted everything together tight,perhaps it crushed the inside of the bearing which would cause the bearing to fail?I thought about machining the excess off but didn't want to go that route.I still have my old case and since the piece blew off in one piece,I had it welded back on for a "spare". the 1532 bearing's in that half still functioned,so I thought if I could't get one I would use one of those even though they were"used"and I know I'm making some of your shiver because "you would never use ,used parts!!"Thanks for all the responce! Does anyone know why they used a allen head bolt on the rear left of the manifold,as shown in fig.31(page 29) of the auto repair manual??I'm assuming for clearance?
  14. My auto-18 transaxle needed to be rebuilt and I bought a 1532 needle bearing off of e-bay because it was the only needle bearing that was bad in the half case.The one I pressed out was crushed on the inside of the bearing causing the needles to not turn.When I pressed in the new supposidly 1532 bearing i noticed that if I kept it flush to the outside(Pump side) it was about a 1/8 too far to the inside case??Odd!I put everything back together and found that I had a fluid leak!As I ran it I would tighten the four bolts that held the pump to the housing,but the leak got worse.I took it apart and found that the needle bearing had forced it's way motor side and thus i couldn't keep the pump from leaking.I suppose the guy just had a number that he thought was good!!But now The guy can't be reached????Just food for thought if your going this route!Does anybody know where I can get an authentic 1532 cap needle bearing??
  15. Electrical

    I have a 1997 520h with a kwikway loader.If you open the hood ,on the crossbar is a elecrical connector with a lot of wires.When I start the tractor it runs shortly then dies and I get nothing when I turn the key!If I wiggle the connector I get power again and it may start but soon dies.I took the connector apart and some of the pins were rusty,so I cleaned them up as best i could and put a dab of dielectric on each pin.Put the connector back together and got the same results.I'm assuming the coil wire is to fault but the wiring diagram at toro(I don't have the manual) gives me no clue as to what color wire goes to what.If I could find the culprit I'd splice the wire. Any suggestions? ED