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wallfish

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wallfish last won the day on March 14 2017

wallfish had the most liked content!

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About wallfish

  • Rank
    Backyard Hammer Mechanic

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    massradon.com
  • Yahoo
    uremailing@yahoo.com

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    RJ-58 x2--CBR-32 Sickle Bar, Snow/Dozer blade, Mower Deck Home made york rake, potato plow?
    400 x2--Snow/Dozer Blade
    401--ST-302 Snow Blower x2, Snow/Dozer blade
    551--Snow/dozer Blade, Mower Deck --sold
    552--Mower deck
    702--Mower deck- --sold
    654--Snow/Dozer Blade, Mower deck, WH weights 8hp Kohler
    414-8--Modified Rotary Broom --sold
    416-8-- Ark FEL, Homemade Backhoe, 60" Modified Snow/Dozer blade
    418-C--2 stage snow blower and Cab, Single Stage Blower
    3ft x 5ft Wheel Horse Dump Trailer
    10cf WH dump trailer

    35+ MPH Modified Rat Rod -- Sold
    Custom 2 seat show cruiser --sold
  • favoritemodel
    416

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicester MA
  • Occupation
    Professional Radon Mitigation
  • Interests
    Fishing
    Ohlsson & Rice engines (O&R) http://myoldmachine.com/forum/74-ohlsson-and-rice/
    Homelite XL-12 powered tools, not just chainsaws. http://myoldmachine.com/topic/429-homelite-xl-tool-collection/#comment-3388

Recent Profile Visitors

5,786 profile views
  1. Try This. Number the traps 1-20. You take 10 and Trina takes 10. Check them every 2 days at $5 a trap. That's a potential of $50 if the other doesn't set their traps! Used this approach with a friend of mine back when we moved into a mice infested apartment. We had them somewhat under control in no time but we were betting at $10 a trap. Trust me, after you forgot to set them once it'll never happened again! Plus it made it a little more fun to check and set them since there was a bounty involved.
  2. The hoe is a little over the top for most horse owners to build or do as a modification so I was think'n more like modifications everyone, or at least the majority can use for ideas and do to their own horse. Although EVERYONE should have a FEL and Backhoe horse!
  3. Wrapping the front tires with #40 roller chain for better steering during snow blowing and snow plowing
  4. 310-8 not starting with key

    The safety switch on the clutch pedal and or PTO break the start circuit. Most common problem is the PTO switch. "Jiggle" the lever around while trying to start it. Go through your wiring by following the diagram and test safety switches and the key switch one at a time until you isolate the problem.
  5. Should have had stitches?

    Napkin, electrical tape and a tube of Neosporin. Even grew the tip of my finger back after cutting off a 1/4"
  6. Villa Grove, Illinois Show -August 3 and 4

    Thanks for sharing Lane! The garden tractor races look like fun, Fun to build one then fun to see how it does. They used to have some garden tractor drag races a few towns over but haven't heard anything about it for 10 years or so.
  7. What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

    That's funny Russell Glad you're here. Please don't run her without the engine blower cover! It will over heat
  8. C-81 cutting issues

    And since that PTO hasn't been used for a while, You can resurface it with a belt sander and lightly sand the clutch lining using a sanding block. Makes a big difference when both surfaces are flat and using the entire contact area for friction.
  9. PTO Hub Resurface

    Also use a belt sander to resurface them. And use a sanding block to resurface the lining too. Makes a HUGE difference for the snow blower when both of those surfaces are flat and have full area contact. No slipping under heavy loads. The PTO slipping isn't something that's easily noticed unless it's really slipping. But the snow flying another 10 ft was noticeable.
  10. Sweet, just be safe if that's possible going that fast on a lawn mower. Control the things you can. Few things from experience. First thing!!!!!!-- Change out those Wheel Horse tie rods to aircraft style! Don't trust those WH ends even if they're NOS You'll also have to go with some toe-in on the alignment. Best if you research and can do something with the caster too. Toe in was enough for mine but... (Original setup will "Shopping Cart" the front wheels and possibly cause failure of the original tie rods and or control of it) OUCH at 40 mph+ Clean clean clean the brake lining and drum or add a new lining. I also ground the drum for more friction. The wheels would turn different directions when the brake was locked up. Regular motor oil in the trans instead of gear oil. At those speeds you don't need or want the drag of gear oil slowing you down or it's need to ride the gears for lubrication. The thinner motor oil will splash lube everything. To get that fast you'll probably need a jackshaft with appropriate pulleys. Or use a HUGE engine pulley. Can't really remember since those pulleys and belts were changed so many times but think it went 5.5 engine to 2.5 on jackshaft. Then 5 on the jackshaft to a 2 on the trans. Add some idler pulleys for tension around the small trans pulley, that's where the belt will want to slip more. Just not as much surface area on those small pulleys Stuff you may already know but just adding
  11. Nice! Is this going for high speed too or just the appearance of it?
  12. Still no spark

    Yup! I effectively eliminated any more guessing of plug status by using an old Ohllson and rice 2 stroke engine to test them. This thing is a known good spark engine so it got mounted to the wall and now is a dedicated spark plug tester. Went nuts with 2 new plugs that were crap so vowed to never let that happen again. You can find an old weed wacker or chainsaw motor for cheap since it doesn't need to run, just have spark. Mount it up as a known good plug tester and you'll never have to question it again
  13. How high is the idler pulley? You want that in a position so when it moves forward it will allow enough slack of the belt. If it's halfway down the belt is too short. 11 and 7 should be close to the correct positions. They should be set with about 1/8 th inch of room from the belt when it's engaged. Just did one at the big show and need to set them about 1/16 away. Use 2 screwdrivers if necessary but you can't get any of it to work if the belt is too short. If you have an old belt around. Cut it, wrap it around ALL pulleys and mark the spot where the end meets the belt. Measure it and you are very close to the length you need
  14. Best to post a pic of what you got with the belt guard off. The brake should be adjustable with a 9/16 hex nut. The position of the idler pulley when the belt is engaged should be up near the top of the belt guard. This allows enough movement forward for the belt to slack enough to disengage the engine pulley. You can test those little belt guide positions by having someone hold the pedal down and use a couple of screwdrivers to support the belt and note the locations when the belt stops spinning. Adjust those guides to those positions. It takes just a little practice but be careful doing this for obvious reasons
  15. New York to Nebraska

    Someone has Christmas in July! Nice bunch!
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