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diesel cowboy

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About diesel cowboy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/29/1982

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1054, C-160 with Tecumseh, B-145 Elec-Trak
  • favoritemodel
    all

Profile Information

  • Location
    Templeton, Ma
  • Occupation
    mechanic

Recent Profile Visitors

1,407 profile views
  1. That turned out awesome
  2. “The 582”—my red headed stepchild!

    It was due to the fact that at the same time the 82 series Cadets were coming out IH was releasing the 88 series farm tractors. They decided to redesign the Cadets to match the farm tractors and their sales promotion for the year was called America's Farming Heritage Comes Home to announce that the full line of tractors now looked almost the same from the 182 Cadet up to the 2+2 6588
  3. What is it?????

    There was another one posted on here about three years ago that looks almost the same.
  4. Bernardston Mass Show

    Its Pratt's Field 257 South St. Looking at the google map its right across from the Bernardston police station
  5. Question about our log splitter engine.

    or I've used the paper coated twist ties from a loaf of bread. It's a small piece of soft wire inside. Just strip some paper off one end and leave it on the rest so there's a little more surface area to hold than just the wire
  6. Bernardston Mass Show

    I plan on being there.
  7. What are these?

    I think you should really look in the oil fill at the governor gear. This is a pic i grabbed off the internet. I'm willing to bet that one or both of the rivets that holds the weights in broke into pieces. They wouldn't show up in a parts diagram and there's a chance a dealer wouldn't think of them unless they've been into these engines to replace the gear.
  8. What are these?

    About the only thing in there that I can think of that would have something that size would be the pins to hold the weights on the governor gear. If you take the oil fill cap off and look in there with a light you can see the gear and might be able to see if both pins are still in it.
  9. Yo Mamma was a Snowblower!

    I want one of those. Make cleaning up a lot easier
  10. Front spindal question / C-175. Rim falls off

    First time I ran into the left hand thread wheel bolts was on one of the cars listed on that bolt head. Drove me nuts being all of 13 at the time and not knowing that was how they used to make them. IH used to mark all their bolts like that too. I agree with it being sad that 2 of the initials being gone now. They were both great cars. I have 3 of the DeSoto's 2 for parts and 1 almost complete that I've driven. Even at almost 70 years old its a smooth ride and that Fluid Drive shifts so you can barely feel it.
  11. N.O.S. Power king parts

    I have a bunch of nos Power King parts I found while cleaning up at work and I am trying to get rid of them to make more room. The pics and the list with part numbers, description, and prices will be below it. Prices are what we are looking to get from them but will consider reasonable offers too or make and offer on the whole lot. I can ship after receiving payment. All but 1 piece will fit into envelopes or flat rate boxes. I believe most of the parts are for the metal nosed 16 and 24 series tractors and attachments with a couple possibly for the later plastic nosed ones ID Qty. Part # Description Price 1 1 01-6825 Spindle 24” M85 45.58 2 1 01-7110 Pinion Shaft 11t 10s 68.30 3 1 01-9106 Spindle Assy. 57.64 4 1 03-4108 Tie rod end 6.58 5 2 03-6503 Shift Lever Retainer 1.64 6 1 03-7110 Hub Spindle 6 1/8”L 45.25 7 2 09-9110 Clutch Finger Brkt. 19.76 8 1 11-0110 Mower Lift Assy. 16.85 9 1 15-4708 Strap, Offset Mtg. Brkt, Gimball 5.30 10 1 16-1302 Stationary Drawbar 30.80 11 1 21-0101 Hydra Lift Arm 20.70 12 4 23-9014 S Hook, Victor Valve Handle 1.40 13 1 23-9045 Sealing Washer 1.00 14 1 51-4705 Latch, Hitch 17.49 15 1 60-0102 Blade Adapter ¾” Shaft 6.76 16 1 60-0201 74-84 Spindle Assy. Less Sheave 149.00 17 1 60-0502 Flat Strap 9.00 18 1 60-0611 Rear Lift Weldment 30.00 19 1 60-2909 Spindle Hsg. 38.90 20 1 60-6304 Pin 3/4x10, Mule Idler 11.55 21 1 60-6700 Threaded L link 3/8Cx10 5.05 22 1 70-0905 R.T. Worm & DrvShaft Coupler 32.50 23 1 70-4705 Tiller Large Offset Lift Link 8.95 24 1 70-7113 48” Tiller Tine Shaft 32.60 25 1 70-7501 RH Tine 7.26 26 4 70-7502 LH Tine 7.26 27 1 80-0006 Bearing B168 1x1/14x½ 7.44 28 1 80-0012 Bearing 1.5idx1.88od 14.30 29 3 80-0022 Bearing B1816 9.39 30 3 82-0101 Seal 1”id 2.44 31 1 82-0152 Seal 1.5idx1.878od 8.76 32 2 83-0015 Spring 9.60 33 1 83-0033 Spacer 1x11gax13/4 2.15 34 2 83-0034 Spacer 1x3/4x21/4 5.39 35 3 83-0041 Spacer 1”sch40 blk pipe 4.50 36 5 83-1028 Spacer 1.3x1x.38 3.50 37 2 83.1032 Spring 1x23/4 2.73 38 1 84-1001 Threaded Straight Link 4.39 39 5 84-1005 Wheel Stud 7/16 2.44 40 1 84-1009 Threaded L Link 10.05 41 2 84-1015 Threaded L Link 1/2ncx5 7.90 42 2 85-1125 Internal Snap Ring .40 43 3 85-2075 E Clip ¾ Shaft .25 44 3 86-0066 Flat Pulley 23/4odx3/8id 6.90 45 1 98-6982 12 Decal 1.20 46 1 98-6984 16 Decal .45 47 1 18 Decal 1.00 48 1 14297 Bracket 7.00 49 1 702901 Tine Holder 24.50 50 2 99-0081? Idler Pulley Bracket? 11.00 Not 100% sure on the last part being the right number and description. it’s the closest I found to a picture in the parts book
  12. Another one followed me home

    Cleaned up nice. Looks a whole lot better now than with the layer of barn dust and bat droppings on it.
  13. Is this the place your thinking of? http://www.hitnmiss.com/31.html The filler necks are on the bottom of the page.
  14. Sunstrand Help Needed

    That pumps going to be a pain to setup and bench test without having it bolted to the drive axle. It looks almost identical to the ones used on the Cub Cadets and some of the John Deeres. On those there is 5 common spots where they like to leak. The 4 seals, 2 for the input/output shaft where couplers are bolted/pinned on and the 2 for the trunnion shafts (called control shaft on the horses) that are 90 degrees from the input/output shaft and there is a cork gasket or o-ring that seals where the shaft comes out with a gear on it. In your first picture the red cap closest to the camera by the filter is the suction line for the oil and the return is through the bearing on the shaft with the gear. The second pic the 2 red caps are for the hydraulic system ie power steering and lift so you want to loop those together if you try to run it otherwise one of them will spit oil out at you while its turning. The last pic there is 2 plugs on the top with plungers in them and they're pushed down. Those are the tow valves and they need to be sticking up somewhere between I think 3/8-1/2 inch for it to work right. Pushed down like they are now would let the machine freewheel. There's a good chance that they're stuck down. Once it gets pressure from inside they might pop back up. If not you'll have to remove them and see about using a tiny screw driver to push them up from the inside. If you want to bench test it, its easier with 2 people. Take the coupler off the input shaft and hook it up to a drill somehow, get a 5 gallon pail about half full of clean oil, and hook a hose onto the suction fitting. Once that's all setup one person holds the pump in the bucket so the line can pick up oil and the other person runs the drill and moves the lever on the side of the pump. Seeing as how its been apart for an unknown amount of time I'd pull both tow valves and pour oil into them while spinning it over by hand to get fresh oil everywhere inside it before spinning it with a drill. Once your ready to spin it with the drill, both people need to hold onto everything tight. Get the drill up to speed and then move the drive lever on the pump. Be ready because once it has a prime in the pump and you move that lever it will try to force itself back to neutral and the pump and drill will jump and buck in your hands. Hope this helps
  15. Advice on rustproofing

    I've been seriously considering Fluid Film myself for a couple of my vehicles after having the frame totally rot out on my 02 Ram 2500 diesel with just under 200000 miles. One of my dads friends has a I think 1990 F350 with something like 25000 miles (yes only 25k) and he has been spraying the underside with drain oil from day 1 and has only had to change the brake lines once since then. The frame still has the original paint and the cab corners and rockers are still solid. He only drives it in the late fall and winter to deliver cord wood as needed otherwise it sits in an unheated barn with a dirt floor. Downside is like mentioned it makes a mess when you do it, but he has a long dirt driveway and runs back and forth on it kicking up dust and it takes care of most of the oil drips.
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