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diesel cowboy

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About diesel cowboy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/29/1982

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1054, C-160 with Tecumseh, B-145 Elec-Trak
  • favoritemodel
    all

Profile Information

  • Location
    Templeton, Ma
  • Occupation
    mechanic

Recent Profile Visitors

825 profile views
  1. sundstrand odd problem

    My dad has actually seen a valve plate that was worse about 25 years ago. It was on a Case Uni-Loader that blew a line to one of the drive motors and when the new line was put in they pushed it through all the dirt and as you'd expect dirt got in the hose and they didn't try to clean it out just hooked it up and less than a half hour later it was toast. Sent it to a machine shop and they were able to grind and polish it back flat, and as of about a month ago when I last saw it, it was still running strong. So hopefully it can be saved if needed. Its a piston to piston and the motor valve plate is actually near perfect. A quick polish on the glass with sand paper and it should be ready to go again.
  2. sundstrand odd problem

    Bringing this back up to the top as I have it at work trying to fix it for the OP. A little back story in it is he bought it a couple years ago from me and probably close to 10 years ago I traded a Ford LGT165 for it from a wheeler dealer customer at work who got it from who knows where for his son who got bored with it. Put it on the bench on jack stands to drain the oil and take the hydro unit off. Had to put another pan under where the hydro was to catch more oil and noticed that there was what looked liked paint chips coming out in it so I pulled the metal screen and it appears that the pain chips are whatever was used to coat the inside of the housing is finally coming off. While looking inside I saw a bead of blue silicone on the housing halves so I know some one was in there at some point. Pulled the pump housing cover leaving the motor and piston assembly sitting on the charge pump and end cap housing. Checked over the pistons and slippers and found only minor light scratches and they moved freely in the block. The block looked to be in good condition until I flipped it over and found a "deep" scratch on the back side where it rides on the valve plate. Set that aside to inspect the valve plate and found this: Notice the piece of metal in the valve plate at about the 4:00 position. The marks where it dug in while the pump was turning are bad. So bad that to clean it up its easier to take it to a machine shop to have it turned and polished instead of trying to do it myself with a piece of glass and 1000 grit sandpaper. Put all of those parts to the side while thinking about if its possible to use parts from a Cub Cadet hydro as they look the same. Moved on to the drive motor part and pulled that apart and didn't find anything out of the ordinary that I'm not used to seeing when I open these up on the Cubs until I pulled the accelerator valves out and found this: That's laying on the bench exactly as I pulled it out of the motor end cap. Apparently when whoever was in the rear end they also went into the hydro and put this back together wrong. If you look close you can see the valve on the left is facing the same way as the one on the right instead of both facing each other. It made it so the spring wasn't seated properly and it broke while also chewing up the hex on the metering plug: The little "hairs" on it are from the rag I used to wipe the oil off. In the picture with the spring you can see a tiny part that broke off close to the left hand valve which makes me believe the piece of metal stuck in the valve plate from the first picture is also from this spring. At that point I decided to pick everything up send an e-mail off to the OP as it was late at night and started to pick everything up. While pouring the oil into a clean jug because he had put new in before bringing it to me I found this in the drain pan: Can't repeat what I said at that point but it was along the lines of crap and someone must hate me. It looks to be part of a needle bearing to me. The only question is knowing that this has been apart before is it a freshly broken bearing or left over from before and the rear end being removed from the tractor, put in a truck, brought to me and moved around to get it on the bench to drain the oil knocked it loose from somewhere? Back in the first post he said he put new oil and filter in it so I would think that if it was a bearing coming apart since the last time it was opened up he would have found it in his drain pan. As it stands now everything is going to be boxed up and put off to the side until he hears back from a friend of ours about the possibility of buying another complete hydro rear end to drop in because he wants it for the winter, and right now I don't really have the time to spend trying to patch it back together as I need to put my plow truck back together. Stewart
  3. Cool concept

    Are you thinking maybe about the rotary engine in the Mazda's? And back in the 70's I think it was Ski-Doo that had the Wankel rotary in a couple sleds.
  4. Cheapest wheel horses

    The cheapest I've gotten a wheel horse for was $20. It was a B-145 elec-trac that the guy just wanted his money for the owners manual he bought from Toro back
  5. Rectifier Packard 56 type connector?

    How about taking the 5 position plug and cut off the 2 that aren't needed to make the 3 position?
  6. What do I really have?

    There's something in the back of my mind that I can't quite remember about the solid state ignition and the spark plug. It's either leave the plug in and use an inline tester to check spark or it's don't pull the plug wire to kill a running engine. Not sure which one and I don't have my Tecky books handy right now to look it up. Maybe somebody could look in their service book and verify that.
  7. Rebuilding a Wheel Horse underdog

    On the ring gaps, the not lining them up with the wrist pin and thrust face is a new one on me. I've never heard about that before but in the approx. 2 dozen engines I've rebuilt in the last 20 or so years I do what my grandpa and dad (with my grandpa that info's coming from the way he did it back to the 50's) told me on the first few I rebuilt and that was to stagger them approx. 180 degrees from each other. I go about 150-170 degrees just to keep the top and bottom ring gap from lining up and only had 1 failure where it started smoking again. That was due to the fact that the customer refused to let us bore the block and it was so badly worn 2 bent quarters could be put down opposite sides of the piston and cylinder at the same time. Stewart
  8. The honey bee has the steering wheel between the drive wheels with the seat just behind it pretty much on the gas tank. It's a little difficult to see in the pics online but you can just make out the steering wheel sticking out above the tires
  9. That's a cool idea. I saw one like that years ago at a Farmall museum that was made out of a Farmall Super A. It was called a Honey Bee. If you Google Honey Bee loader there's a bunch of pictures of the Super A setup and a few other makes that were done the same way. I'll look tonight and see if I can find the pictures I took of it. Looks like you've got a plan on where to go with the build but they might give you some other ideas on how to do things. Stewart
  10. Dealer List

    Just picked up a tractor over the weekend and it had these 3 dealer stickers on it. The dealer is listed back on post #107 but there wasn't any pics of the stickers and I know how much everyone loves pictures so here they are. Stewart
  11. K91 govener stiff

    I dug out an older paper copy of the parts book for the K91. Here's the pics of the gov. linkage and the internal parts. It appears that the K91 has a completely different setup to the bigger engines. I've never worked on one of these but the stiffness might be on the internal parts hooked to the cam parts listed as A B C and D and part D is refered to as a flyball retainer and if those parts are rusty/sticky it could make it hard to move. Hope this helps. Stewart
  12. Favorite Car Films

    There's Back to the Future, The Dukes of Hazzard, and Convoy
  13. Garages

    I debated putting up pictures because it's not technically my shop it's where I work but I'm allowed to bring in my own projects and work on them at night and weekends as long as it doesn't prevent getting paying jobs in. Right now its the weekend so my uncle has the red truck in working on it and you can just about make out my plow truck rebuild. The shop is about 35x60 with 14' doors 12' wide on both ends. If the place was empty other than the office we could fit 5 full size trucks inside with room for the tools and to work around them without being cramped.
  14. Are C-Series Hydraulic Valves Stack-able?

    They should be stackable. I believe they're called sectional valves and are designed to do that. I have a 2 spool one off of an old fisher snow plow and it looked just like the one on a D series my friend had except one spool on mine had a float position and one didn't. All that's needed is to take one end plate off get some new o-rings and longer bolts and put it back together. I vaguely remember seeing I think an Electro or maybe a no name with a 2 spool setup on it, I think it was on here and maybe around 4-5 years ago that someone had made up or bought that way. Stewart
  15. cub cadet 104

    There was one that sold recently on ebay for $400 without a mower but it had the rear lift on it. $400-500 is about the absolute max I'd go on one unless like you it had sentimental value but even then I doubt I'd go over $700.
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