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diesel cowboy

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About diesel cowboy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/29/1982

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1054, C-160 with Tecumseh, B-145 Elec-Trak
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    Templeton, Ma
  • Occupation

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Front spindal question / C-175. Rim falls off

    First time I ran into the left hand thread wheel bolts was on one of the cars listed on that bolt head. Drove me nuts being all of 13 at the time and not knowing that was how they used to make them. IH used to mark all their bolts like that too. I agree with it being sad that 2 of the initials being gone now. They were both great cars. I have 3 of the DeSoto's 2 for parts and 1 almost complete that I've driven. Even at almost 70 years old its a smooth ride and that Fluid Drive shifts so you can barely feel it.
  2. N.O.S. Power king parts

    I have a bunch of nos Power King parts I found while cleaning up at work and I am trying to get rid of them to make more room. The pics and the list with part numbers, description, and prices will be below it. Prices are what we are looking to get from them but will consider reasonable offers too or make and offer on the whole lot. I can ship after receiving payment. All but 1 piece will fit into envelopes or flat rate boxes. I believe most of the parts are for the metal nosed 16 and 24 series tractors and attachments with a couple possibly for the later plastic nosed ones ID Qty. Part # Description Price 1 1 01-6825 Spindle 24” M85 45.58 2 1 01-7110 Pinion Shaft 11t 10s 68.30 3 1 01-9106 Spindle Assy. 57.64 4 1 03-4108 Tie rod end 6.58 5 2 03-6503 Shift Lever Retainer 1.64 6 1 03-7110 Hub Spindle 6 1/8”L 45.25 7 2 09-9110 Clutch Finger Brkt. 19.76 8 1 11-0110 Mower Lift Assy. 16.85 9 1 15-4708 Strap, Offset Mtg. Brkt, Gimball 5.30 10 1 16-1302 Stationary Drawbar 30.80 11 1 21-0101 Hydra Lift Arm 20.70 12 4 23-9014 S Hook, Victor Valve Handle 1.40 13 1 23-9045 Sealing Washer 1.00 14 1 51-4705 Latch, Hitch 17.49 15 1 60-0102 Blade Adapter ¾” Shaft 6.76 16 1 60-0201 74-84 Spindle Assy. Less Sheave 149.00 17 1 60-0502 Flat Strap 9.00 18 1 60-0611 Rear Lift Weldment 30.00 19 1 60-2909 Spindle Hsg. 38.90 20 1 60-6304 Pin 3/4x10, Mule Idler 11.55 21 1 60-6700 Threaded L link 3/8Cx10 5.05 22 1 70-0905 R.T. Worm & DrvShaft Coupler 32.50 23 1 70-4705 Tiller Large Offset Lift Link 8.95 24 1 70-7113 48” Tiller Tine Shaft 32.60 25 1 70-7501 RH Tine 7.26 26 4 70-7502 LH Tine 7.26 27 1 80-0006 Bearing B168 1x1/14x½ 7.44 28 1 80-0012 Bearing 1.5idx1.88od 14.30 29 3 80-0022 Bearing B1816 9.39 30 3 82-0101 Seal 1”id 2.44 31 1 82-0152 Seal 1.5idx1.878od 8.76 32 2 83-0015 Spring 9.60 33 1 83-0033 Spacer 1x11gax13/4 2.15 34 2 83-0034 Spacer 1x3/4x21/4 5.39 35 3 83-0041 Spacer 1”sch40 blk pipe 4.50 36 5 83-1028 Spacer 1.3x1x.38 3.50 37 2 83.1032 Spring 1x23/4 2.73 38 1 84-1001 Threaded Straight Link 4.39 39 5 84-1005 Wheel Stud 7/16 2.44 40 1 84-1009 Threaded L Link 10.05 41 2 84-1015 Threaded L Link 1/2ncx5 7.90 42 2 85-1125 Internal Snap Ring .40 43 3 85-2075 E Clip ¾ Shaft .25 44 3 86-0066 Flat Pulley 23/4odx3/8id 6.90 45 1 98-6982 12 Decal 1.20 46 1 98-6984 16 Decal .45 47 1 18 Decal 1.00 48 1 14297 Bracket 7.00 49 1 702901 Tine Holder 24.50 50 2 99-0081? Idler Pulley Bracket? 11.00 Not 100% sure on the last part being the right number and description. it’s the closest I found to a picture in the parts book
  3. Another one followed me home

    Cleaned up nice. Looks a whole lot better now than with the layer of barn dust and bat droppings on it.
  4. Is this the place your thinking of? http://www.hitnmiss.com/31.html The filler necks are on the bottom of the page.
  5. Sunstrand Help Needed

    That pumps going to be a pain to setup and bench test without having it bolted to the drive axle. It looks almost identical to the ones used on the Cub Cadets and some of the John Deeres. On those there is 5 common spots where they like to leak. The 4 seals, 2 for the input/output shaft where couplers are bolted/pinned on and the 2 for the trunnion shafts (called control shaft on the horses) that are 90 degrees from the input/output shaft and there is a cork gasket or o-ring that seals where the shaft comes out with a gear on it. In your first picture the red cap closest to the camera by the filter is the suction line for the oil and the return is through the bearing on the shaft with the gear. The second pic the 2 red caps are for the hydraulic system ie power steering and lift so you want to loop those together if you try to run it otherwise one of them will spit oil out at you while its turning. The last pic there is 2 plugs on the top with plungers in them and they're pushed down. Those are the tow valves and they need to be sticking up somewhere between I think 3/8-1/2 inch for it to work right. Pushed down like they are now would let the machine freewheel. There's a good chance that they're stuck down. Once it gets pressure from inside they might pop back up. If not you'll have to remove them and see about using a tiny screw driver to push them up from the inside. If you want to bench test it, its easier with 2 people. Take the coupler off the input shaft and hook it up to a drill somehow, get a 5 gallon pail about half full of clean oil, and hook a hose onto the suction fitting. Once that's all setup one person holds the pump in the bucket so the line can pick up oil and the other person runs the drill and moves the lever on the side of the pump. Seeing as how its been apart for an unknown amount of time I'd pull both tow valves and pour oil into them while spinning it over by hand to get fresh oil everywhere inside it before spinning it with a drill. Once your ready to spin it with the drill, both people need to hold onto everything tight. Get the drill up to speed and then move the drive lever on the pump. Be ready because once it has a prime in the pump and you move that lever it will try to force itself back to neutral and the pump and drill will jump and buck in your hands. Hope this helps
  6. Advice on rustproofing

    I've been seriously considering Fluid Film myself for a couple of my vehicles after having the frame totally rot out on my 02 Ram 2500 diesel with just under 200000 miles. One of my dads friends has a I think 1990 F350 with something like 25000 miles (yes only 25k) and he has been spraying the underside with drain oil from day 1 and has only had to change the brake lines once since then. The frame still has the original paint and the cab corners and rockers are still solid. He only drives it in the late fall and winter to deliver cord wood as needed otherwise it sits in an unheated barn with a dirt floor. Downside is like mentioned it makes a mess when you do it, but he has a long dirt driveway and runs back and forth on it kicking up dust and it takes care of most of the oil drips.
  7. 314 hydro, oil leak / filler cap

    That style dipstick has an o-ring on the top of the tube. Try checking that and the cap where it slides over the tube. The o-ring might be worn out or broken or the cap on the dipstick might be cracked. If its loose, the pressure when it's running will make it pop off and spray oil everywhere. Ran into that a couple times on the newer Commands at work where it was hard to push the cap down all the way so it would seal and after a few minutes running would pop loose. Stewart
  8. Spark plug cover

    Never seen one of those in person before only in the old Briggs microfiche at work. Its listed in the model 19 fiche as a shield assembly, spark plug part number 89742. Probably the same for most of the 8hp and up engines from that vintage
  9. RANT (sorry) Allis Chalmers Blues

    Plus I've found that the older the tractor/truck/whatever machine that if you can get any sort of bite trying to remove them about 90% of the time they come out even broken bolts. If you drill all the way through them be careful not to go too far. There's a chance that the bottom of the hole isn't very thick and you don't want to drill into the water jacket on the head. Stewart
  10. Liquid Tire Chains

    Interesting concept. Be kind of neat to see that adapted into some sort of setup to go on the front tires of the tractors to see if it would make it steer better with a plow or blower on it
  11. RANT (sorry) Allis Chalmers Blues

    From the looks of the cylinder you should be ok for a while just cleaning it up real good with a light hone or steel wool and putting it back together. If it was mine I'd go with cleaning and put it back together to try. It'll give you an idea of where you need to go next with it. If you're worried about blow by you could pop the piston and check the end gaps on that cylinder first. I've done probably 8-9 of the wet sleeve type engines ranging from the customer saying clean it up and make it work as cheap as possible to a complete overhaul I don't care what it costs.
  12. sundstrand odd problem

    My dad has actually seen a valve plate that was worse about 25 years ago. It was on a Case Uni-Loader that blew a line to one of the drive motors and when the new line was put in they pushed it through all the dirt and as you'd expect dirt got in the hose and they didn't try to clean it out just hooked it up and less than a half hour later it was toast. Sent it to a machine shop and they were able to grind and polish it back flat, and as of about a month ago when I last saw it, it was still running strong. So hopefully it can be saved if needed. Its a piston to piston and the motor valve plate is actually near perfect. A quick polish on the glass with sand paper and it should be ready to go again.
  13. sundstrand odd problem

    Bringing this back up to the top as I have it at work trying to fix it for the OP. A little back story in it is he bought it a couple years ago from me and probably close to 10 years ago I traded a Ford LGT165 for it from a wheeler dealer customer at work who got it from who knows where for his son who got bored with it. Put it on the bench on jack stands to drain the oil and take the hydro unit off. Had to put another pan under where the hydro was to catch more oil and noticed that there was what looked liked paint chips coming out in it so I pulled the metal screen and it appears that the pain chips are whatever was used to coat the inside of the housing is finally coming off. While looking inside I saw a bead of blue silicone on the housing halves so I know some one was in there at some point. Pulled the pump housing cover leaving the motor and piston assembly sitting on the charge pump and end cap housing. Checked over the pistons and slippers and found only minor light scratches and they moved freely in the block. The block looked to be in good condition until I flipped it over and found a "deep" scratch on the back side where it rides on the valve plate. Set that aside to inspect the valve plate and found this: Notice the piece of metal in the valve plate at about the 4:00 position. The marks where it dug in while the pump was turning are bad. So bad that to clean it up its easier to take it to a machine shop to have it turned and polished instead of trying to do it myself with a piece of glass and 1000 grit sandpaper. Put all of those parts to the side while thinking about if its possible to use parts from a Cub Cadet hydro as they look the same. Moved on to the drive motor part and pulled that apart and didn't find anything out of the ordinary that I'm not used to seeing when I open these up on the Cubs until I pulled the accelerator valves out and found this: That's laying on the bench exactly as I pulled it out of the motor end cap. Apparently when whoever was in the rear end they also went into the hydro and put this back together wrong. If you look close you can see the valve on the left is facing the same way as the one on the right instead of both facing each other. It made it so the spring wasn't seated properly and it broke while also chewing up the hex on the metering plug: The little "hairs" on it are from the rag I used to wipe the oil off. In the picture with the spring you can see a tiny part that broke off close to the left hand valve which makes me believe the piece of metal stuck in the valve plate from the first picture is also from this spring. At that point I decided to pick everything up send an e-mail off to the OP as it was late at night and started to pick everything up. While pouring the oil into a clean jug because he had put new in before bringing it to me I found this in the drain pan: Can't repeat what I said at that point but it was along the lines of crap and someone must hate me. It looks to be part of a needle bearing to me. The only question is knowing that this has been apart before is it a freshly broken bearing or left over from before and the rear end being removed from the tractor, put in a truck, brought to me and moved around to get it on the bench to drain the oil knocked it loose from somewhere? Back in the first post he said he put new oil and filter in it so I would think that if it was a bearing coming apart since the last time it was opened up he would have found it in his drain pan. As it stands now everything is going to be boxed up and put off to the side until he hears back from a friend of ours about the possibility of buying another complete hydro rear end to drop in because he wants it for the winter, and right now I don't really have the time to spend trying to patch it back together as I need to put my plow truck back together. Stewart
  14. Cool concept

    Are you thinking maybe about the rotary engine in the Mazda's? And back in the 70's I think it was Ski-Doo that had the Wankel rotary in a couple sleds.
  15. Cheapest wheel horses

    The cheapest I've gotten a wheel horse for was $20. It was a B-145 elec-trac that the guy just wanted his money for the owners manual he bought from Toro back