Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

40 Excellent

About dsholler

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

960 profile views
  1. Snow blade rear bracket question

    I was just curious if they would work themselves loose without the shims.
  2. Snow blade rear bracket question

    KC9KAS, you have given me very good advice, but it assumes I have both the equipment and the skill to actuall weld those things. I am OK with the wrench, but it has been several decades since I attemtped to weld anything.
  3. Snow blade rear bracket question

    Well, I actyually tracked down a manual for this plow, and it has something in there about angle spacers... since I do not have them, I am going to assume I am fine without them.. anyone have an opinion? Dan
  4. HI all, Quick question.. .I am just about to put a snowblade on my 414 for the first time. I have the bracket that clamps under the transmission, but what I have are the two end pieces.. there was obviously once a rod that went between them to hold them at the proper distance. Does this matter at all? Can I just put them on loosely, hook up the blade and the lift mechanism, center it as best I can and slide them as far outboard as they go? Or do they require something to maintain the spacing to keep things from coming loose and getting wiggly?
  5. Is my starter ready to go?

    Good thread discussion on battery voltage..
  6. Wouldn't the lack of air account for that?
  7. Is my starter ready to go?

    You said you started the tractor, ran it for 10 feet (less than a minute? ) and then shut it off, and restarted it again... my guess is that you just ran down the battery. I do not know exactly, but I think a safe guess would be to say you needed about 10 minutes of run time at full throttle to recharge the battery after a start... and when the battery is not putting out enough juice, the starter turns very slowly. Deeply discharging a battery like that will also shorten its life considerably, and it is possible that a battery that was already old and questionable was pushed over the edge, so to speak, by the deep discharge. Assuming that it started find before you did all this, I would put the battery on a regular charger until that says it is done.. and then test it with the meter.. if it checks out there, put it back in the tractor and see how it does. (Note, the meter does not always tell you, I just got rid of a battery that would read 13.6 volts after I took it off the charger, but could barely spin the starter at full speed more than one time) The turning the key off and waiting also is very typical of a discharged battery, as they tend to recover a bit if you wait. I have also had a bad ground connection affect the starter, but at least in my case, the symptom was that it would sometimes just click and fail to start, and sometimes spin the starter just fine.. I do not know how the 520 is wired, but it is usually pretty easy to test the continuity on the ground strap.
  8. Question for the battery badger?

    you mean like mowing the lawn at midday in the summer?
  9. Question for the battery badger?

    Thank you, that makes a lot of sense. And if it really is somewhat linear (i.e. the 600 battery will last twice as long as the 300) then it is probably worth it, since it was only a couple of dollars more.
  10. The crux of this question is whether you can have too large a battery (i.e. too much Ah capacity) ? My battery has been giving me trouble for a while, and after sitting on the charger all weekend it would not start the tractor on Sunday. It being Sunday, I had to get another at WalMart. Their battery display was well stocked, and a bit disorganized. I found one battery whose specs were similar to the one I had (listed slightly more Amp hours and CCA) and I grabbed one off the shelf... when I got it home, I realized the one I grabbed had about 3x the listed amp hours and CCA numbers... It has started the tractor up fine, and I have seen no noticeable difference, other than the volt meter staying slightly below or at 14 while running with this battery, vs. slightly above with the old one. So I figure all is fine.. but am curious if it would be possible to put too much load on the charging circuit. My guess is that the only symptom is that I probably paid extra for a battery that I did not need...
  11. 414-8 noise when engaging mower

    I would see if you can reproduce the noise by hand, so you can see which bearing it is... there are two in the PTO< although the front one is the one that usually goes.. you may want to put a bit of grease (and possibly a new oil seal) on the rear one... I had a situation where the grease had come out of the rear one and splashed on the driven disk (OK I kinda overdid it) , so it slipped when you first engaged it and made a noise.. (brake cleaner and a new oil seal took care of that) .. ALso, make sure the things is actually engaged... another common problem when the bearing gets bad is that the stub shaft starts to slip..what you are hearing as bearing noise might be the PTO bell not fully pressed against the driven disk and slipping, because the c-clip that holds the stub shaft in place has popped out of the groove.
  12. Cleaning grass from deck

    I have the old clothes, but do not own a pressure washer. I am thinking a cheapo HF grinder and a cupped wire brush...
  13. Cleaning grass from deck

    How long do you think it would take me to clean up a rather dirty 48 inch deck with some rust pitting on the bottom? (Just trying to figure out if i have to wait until fall to do this) ... also, did you use the regular slip plate, or the mowerguard stuff?
  14. Good Battery Suggestion?

    I would not suggest using a glass mat battery in the tractor, even with the regulator. I know that for marine applications where glass mat and gel cell batteries are used a lot these days, you need to have a special regulator that has specific settings for these batteries, because they have different charge absorbtion rates and need different overcharging/float charging voltages to stay good. I suspect if you use one of these you will either fry it in short order, or you will never be able to fully charge it. There was a discussion of this in another thread on overcharging. You could, of course, get one of the (very expensive) marine regulators that are programmable for the different battery types, and hook it up to your charging circuit.
  15. 312-8 HELP

    Dunno if this helps