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Sarge last won the day on February 18

Sarge had the most liked content!

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About Sarge

  • Rank
    RedSquare Pro

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1277 , '73 16 Auto , '74 C-160 , '74/75? D-180
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Military Member
  • Location
    Ohio, Illinois
  • Occupation
    Union Laborer , Local 393
  • Interests
    Wheel Horse's and fabricating , old Land Cruisers , welding
  1. Questions for D owners

    The only water-cooled model was the D-250 with the Renault engine. That bigger tractor was made by Gutbrod, so it's really not a WH except for the decals. Sarge
  2. Questions for D owners

    The big Kohler K series twin opposed engines are torque monsters - huge difference over anything else in how they run and pull implements, ect. Personally, I'd aim right for the top of the heap and find a D-200, D-180 at the minimum. While the power is nice, they all share some weak points with one glaringly big one that is common - that pump coupling. When it fails, no new parts available except a new pump shaft ($280, I think) and finding a solid, good set of splines in a used coupling is a shot in the dark. When mine went south, it got a different pump with good splines, a new center portion in the coupling from a C-series input pulley and we machined a key into the whole assembly. Not a cheap endeavor. The D's are an animal and can do a lot of work - but keep a backup plan handy as it will probably be needed. Sarge
  3. I've had a Homelite 2-stroke trimmer now since the early 80's - it has never failed to start and run properly, bet I've only put 2 new spark plugs in it, mostly because I felt bad for the dumb thing and it's refusal to die. I never dump/empty my gas, always use non-ethanol and a quality mix oil. One thing that is religious, never keep the gas more than 4 months for a 2-stroke, and I always add the proper amount of Sta-bil. Same with the newer Stihl blower/vac I bought, always starts on the 2nd pull as the Homelite. One thing before you tear into that tank/filter, ect. Try running it wide open throttle and adjust the high mix screw - most likely just some gunk got into it. If that doesn't help, using a piece of annealed wire bent into a hook to ****** the filter out through the fill cap and replace/clean it. Be wary of putting new hoses in older machines - hoses aren't sized exactly these days and over time the holes in the tanks get enlarged, which results in some nice leakage, generally all over the operator. The yellow or blue Tygon is best, can be had at any mower shop worth their salt if necessary. Take a chunk of the old lines to make certain on the proper size, bigger is ok but never smaller, of course. If you bevel the ends with a razor blade you can get them forced through the tank holes with needle nosed pliers, some of those new X-jaw ones will reach inside the tank pretty well. That part is a pain in the keister, but once it's done the thing should be good for at least 10yrs. Sarge
  4. Custom rim color

    I'd go with an industrial machinery gray - it's a bit darker but has a look like nothing else. Sarge
  5. Quality electric motor brands?

    I missed out on an older heavy series GE single phase 5hp with low hours, it was over 2hrs drive away but would have been totally worth it at $250 listed price. Just couldn't get enough time off work, as usual. There is one just over an hour away that's an older Baldor but looks like it's been beaten pretty hard on its case - even the tag has a ton of scars so I'd rather avoid that one. Has anyone dealt with Leeson lately? Even Amazon carries them in the right specs with the 1-3/8" shaft size, various models run below $600 new. I do know one guy on our paving crew that has a farm with an old corn crib on it - with a lift, no less so likely has a 5hp in there to run it. He says its a big motor, but knows nothing about this stuff, might run over after work Monday and take a gander, maybe I'll get lucky. I'd almost bet this old Dayton burned up all 4 poles by the amount of smoke and noise out of it, wow that thing got hot. Sarge
  6. D Series Replacement Gauges

    Paul is correct - no way in this world would a mechanical bulb fit inside that pump head, not to mention the top of them are larger which would interfere with the Sundstrand's tapped ports for the hydraulic lifts. I used a SW electric hydraulic oil temp gauge for mine since the original went totally whacky. Plan to add a matching voltmeter, oil pressure as well. Be aware, SW's newer gauges are not US made, so the quality isn't what it used to be. You can score individual old school "tombstone" needle SW gauges once in a while on eBay - but be prepared to shell out some serious money for those vintage old school US made look. Sarge
  7. Electric Fuel Pump Issues

    There are two main versions of the Facet pumps - those that fail are imported, the ones that last a long time are made here in the US. Price is triple on the US made unit - so that decision has to be made. For my D, due to its weight, size, and difficult to move if its dead, US made one. I still run the mechanical pumps on everything else, they just work and now we can get rebuild kits for them. Sarge
  8. I'm starting to wonder if the weak leg issue we've had here for a while is the culprit to my compressor motor blowing up in spectacular fashion the other night - guess I'd better run some voltage tests again...ugh. I hate dealing with Comical Ed, getting them to fix anything is not a lot of fun. Sarge
  9. Came home after work the other night to find some of my steel was wet from a rain - blew it dry with the air hose and put it inside to keep it from rusting any worse. When I went down into the shop I heard a very loud buzzing coming from the equipment room - it was my compressor motor. The old Dayton farm duty 5hp single phase had enough of pulling that old Speed-Air pump and let the smoke out in a spectacular fashion, wow - that thing got hot! Looking around, not easy to find a decent quality severe duty motor - especially with the following specs... 230v single phase 5hp, at least 1-1/18" shaft size 1740-1750 rpms Continuous duty The Dayton I had on it that is cooked was an L231T frame, not even sure what other frame styles would work on this old girl but I suspect the common 184T should be similar. I see a lot of negative reviews and feedback on nearly all the common brand names from years ago - I'd imagine they have been bought up and made half as good as they used to be, like everything else. Compressor was originally equipped with a 3 phase motor, this one came out of a corn crib lift that a buddy had given me to do the swap. Is there any brands that are reliable enough for the severe duty I put this thing through? When I blasted my trailer for the rebuild/repaint - that was 7hrs of continuous running at full load feeding a pressure pot. There are days I'll run the glass bead cabinet for 12hrs straight to clean parts/metal for getting things done - need a motor that can keep up and not break the bank. Sarge
  10. You can use a rising rate pressure regulator and an electric pump or a matching pressure system - either one isn't cheap but they do work. I'd prefer a blower myself, much easier to work with and I love the sound, lol. Sarge
  11. D -160 cooling fan

    I would expect the threshold to be somewhere around 180*F to cool off a hydro system, maybe higher, but at 180* that oil is getting pretty cooked. Sarge
  12. There is the option of going to a drain hose instead of the plug or an elbow/extension. Figure out the thread size, have a hydraulic shop make up a cheap hose with a cap on the outer end and you have yourself a remote drain. There are outfits that make them specifically for different equipment and engines - due to how these newer box-store lawn tractors are built - the hose is a necessity. Sarge
  13. Seafoam. Your thoughts

    Seafoam has changed - not just in color, either. Doesn't work nearly as well as it used to but it can help clear varnish. The B-12 does seem to work a lot better but be careful using it in modern emission engines. Most of the true cleaners have lost the zip due to EPA rules, no substitute for taking a carb apart and give it a real cleaning. On picky engines, replace the idle mix needle, main jet needle, and a new main jet - they work like new again as long as the throttle shaft isn't worn. If you use ethanol - you're on your own there. Sarge
  14. The Gods must be crazy, parts 1 & 2...love it. Sarge
  15. 3pt Wrecker attachment

    Working on that very thing this weekend, after I pick up the clippings from this very wet month we've had already. Been mowing every 3-4 days here, that's just nuts for September. The D's pump is still quite stout after all the work - tested it's lifting power by nearly getting the rear axle off the ground on the '77 Land Cruiser, that was pretty impressive. Sarge