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Sarge

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Sarge last won the day on February 18

Sarge had the most liked content!

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About Sarge

  • Rank
    RedSquare Pro

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1277 , '73 16 Auto , '74 C-160 , '74/75? D-180
  • favoritemodel
    1277

Profile Information

  • Military Member
    Marines
  • Location
    Ohio, Illinois
  • Occupation
    Union Laborer , Local 393
  • Interests
    Wheel Horse's and fabricating , old Land Cruisers , welding
    http://pure-gas.org/
  1. Favorite hand tools/brands

    Amen - exactly what I thought, and US made goods to boot. I prefer a good quality tool, bought once and used for a lifetime, if possible. I have started to finally wear out a lot of my smaller hand tools after all these years - finding replacements of the same quality has been a real struggle. Some stuff today is better than it ever was, but that's rare because only technology has made it possible, not so much on craftsmanship/materials. Take most chisels, once you resharpen them the hardening is gone - they are not a truly forged and properly tempered piece of tool steel to start with. It's irritating to think that a lot of my grandfather's simple hand tools are made from better materials back then than what is available now - how in the world is that "progress"?? For the love of money - even Starrett has started selling Chinese made goods, just shoot me. Sarge
  2. There are many grades of fillers used to smooth panels that are pitted, make sure you are using a filler that is rated to seal the pores and prevent further corrosion - or it will come back. Do some research and ask your local auto supply or body supply what the pros are using - they usually can make a recommendation for what you're working on. I know in the past the fast curing fillers I've used have sealed up well enough that none of the old rust pits have opened up. Bondo, being a fiberglass type, can and does at times allow moisture to migrate into the metal - that's why it's so bad for car repairs and it can cause panels to rust from underneath. I'm by no means a body guy, nor an expert - but I know quite a few and listen to their advice. Which, btw - Eastwood is pretty good at helping folks, and their website has a ton of info on how-to this stuff. Sarge
  3. Favorite hand tools/brands

    I recently broke one of my oldest/favorite putty knives I've had for more than 40yrs - really pi$$ed me off. I've used this thing to scrape, cut and clean just about everything I've ever worked on. I think the blade just finally got weak from so much abuse over all these years. Been looking for a good honest built tool steel bladed wooden handled replacement - they pretty much don't exist in today's world of Chinese goods driven hardware stores around here, which is a high source of aggravation and anger. While hunting for a really specific glazing compound, I happened across a restoration supply site - Atlas Preservation, they carry a lot of old world, high quality hand tools made for working on old structures. Bingo - a whole page of US made, tool steel putty knives and scrapers - wow. https://atlaspreservation.com/collections/window-tools I've always wanted a tool steel bent blade model, but haven't seen a decently made one in a lot of years - so I ordered up two of the Lamson maple handle models, I'm so excited waiting for them to show up ! I know, pretty pathetic, but I'm used to old school high-quality tools that have lasted as long as our tractors, and even far longer. https://atlaspreservation.com/collections/sarco-putty-1/products/maple-bent-putty-knife Hopefully, those blades will have that nice, tool steel ring to them and hold an edge as well as their shape - be nice for once not to remove the tops of my knuckles when scraping things clean....lol. Sarge
  4. Some of the mid-60's models used a bent lift rod to clear the battery box - my 1277 was designed this way and that rod was still necessary when I switched it to the early 1980's deck. It does seem that those 37" decks have a lot of parts that are specific to them - I'd study the drawings very closely. Sarge
  5. I mostly buy non-insulated terminals and dual wall shrink boot w/adhesive - that is how I've done 95% of the wiring jobs the last 30yrs or so. Much simpler to crimp a wire, fire up the mini butane torch and use some good quality rosin core solder to flow out the connection - plus, it prevents corrosion later in the copper joint. Learned the hard working on big rigs and trailers that non-soldered connections will fail in a fairly short time, regardless of shrink boot or none, if moisture can get to the connection point, it's over. While hot, I also dip the connector in a tub of NoOx, it will flow into and protect any type of terminal used on our equipment. I've had the connection tabs rot clean off of lights but the terminal part will not fail - the stuff really makes a difference. You can use the black dielectric grease from auto/hardware stores, it's not quite as good but NoOx is very tough to find/buy. Sarge
  6. Running higher octane gas?

    Ethanol is an acid - it is great at attacking pot metal and aluminum-based castings like that valve. That and the damage it can do to an air-cooled engine's valves is amazing in a short time. Using 93 octane won't hurt it, as long as it's non-ethanol. Ethanol added 93 octane will be a better base fuel than the regular pump grade 87 octane, but that 10% dilution of ethanol is still damaging in the long term. Sticking to even lower grades of pure fuel is always the best route and they charge more because it's pure fuel, not some garbage that can be upgraded with ethanol. The worst example is what most people are running in the vehicles/equipment - standard pump grade 87 octane with 10% ethanol added - the base fuel you're buying is total garbage and the 10% additive is required just to get it to the 87 rating. Every person I run across putting that crap in a gas can for their mowers and other equipment gets an education on what they're buying - and the damage they are causing by doing so. I'm on a one-man mission to get the stuff banned if at all possible, I'm tired of fixing other people's engines and having my tax dollars prop up one Lobby that basically feeds a whole network of subsidized plant owners getting rich off our misery. We have 4 plants in my area, their owners are really enjoying the benefits of the destruction, and will lie in any way they can to continue that practice. Not out to make it a political argument, but it needs to stop. Sarge
  7. More than likely, it's not the solenoids fault - it's the grounds from the frame to the battery. The plunger coil needs a ground path to work, without it they will act like they are burnt out since it's not hitting hard enough to carry the current required for the starter motor. Sarge
  8. That's why I hate phone apps - wrong application chart again, so I deleted it. The 11/32" pilot seemed odd and I should have caught it, my bad. 11/32" works for the initial counterbore for socket head screws, but not regular cap screws. Looks good on those hubs, will make a big difference in keeping them tight to the axle shafts. Sarge
  9. An engine hot tank might be too much for sheet metal - at the temperature they operate, it could warp those parts. Sarge
  10. Small battery size?

    I did the exact same thing - the older mid 60's used a 22NF battery that had a larger footprint and was much taller as well. Go price one for the 1276 - not a cheap battery size, either..lol. Sarge
  11. All good points above - but of course, I have some things to add to this. 3/8"-16 thread, the common size for the set screw/bolts for the hubs uses a .3453" pilot hole as it's optimum size. 11/32" drill bit is close enough to work and on cast iron will hold the threads just fine for this application with a good, sharp tap. To create a flat, I use a socket head piloted counterbore bit that cuts a recess - using the 5/16" size cap screw counterbore with a pilot size of 11/32" is a way to "cheat" a bit and create a nice flat for the locking nut to sit against. Outside bore diameter on this size counterbore is only 1/2", the nut will require that area to be enlarged but it's easy to do that with a grinder or a good file in short order. http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Solid-Counterbores-and-Step-Drills/2129.html Now, you don't need to go out and buy an expensive bit, I grab good quality name brand used one off the auction site - have several for this type of purpose as well as their intended use for countersunk cap screws. I do have one much larger bit made for a 5/8" socket head cap screw, with the pilot ground down to fit the pilot hole size for 3/8" bolts (11/32). Cast iron cuts pretty easily, but it can also easily dull taps and other cutting tools due to it's properties/ingredients - use a lot of tapping oil here. For cast iron, I use either TD Foamy (available from Fastenal) or PB Blaster air tool oil. Be sure to start your initial hole with a smaller bit down around 3/16", then enlarge up to the 11/32" pilot size to help hold your centerline point. Drill presses are a useful tool, but not a milling machine - you must remember that. Sure, you could use an end mill to cut the recess, but only if that is a very heavy, solid and tight industrial model press with a heavy spindle, which almost all of them are not. Otherwise, the operation can be done using a piloted bit to control wandering, which any flat bottom cutter is going to try to do when cutting something that is hitting on only 2 points (outside of a circle). For drilling into round objects, especially on a drill press, there is a handy indicator tool that makes the job of trying to center the point of cutting much easier - https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-4401-0027-Drill-Center-Finder/dp/B01LW6N7N9 This tool, when chucked into the press will show the exact top centerline of a circle when the two marks line up. This will help "clock" the part to be bored on the proper plane to hold the hole 90* to the bore in those hubs. Without doing that, you can end up with a hold that is off-center and even possibly break a drill bit when trying to cut the pilot hole. Just some tips/cheats Sarge
  12. K482 Oil Pressure

    At idle, mine is showing 35psi - above idle it's around 42psi and steady. Being an opposed twin the pressure is needed to protect the rods, the 40-50psi specs make sense. Sarge
  13. K482 Poor Idle

    No, that hole should be open. Sounds like you might have some gunk in the idle circuit, it's not unusual to have a new carb show up with debris in it - especially aftermarket ones. I hope with the rebuild you replaced all the fuel lines - ethanol fuel or just plain age can cause the hoses to break down over time internally, plugging up the carb. Sarge
  14. Favorite hand tools/brands

    I've always had an issue with any mowing deck getting the discharge chute area clogged up from the heavy grass/weeds/water/mud on this property - I normally just carry a putty knife in the tractor's toolbox. However, went looking for a good quality, heavy blade putty knife to find basically nothing worth buying - they are all made of crap metal and won't hold an edge. So, in the further hunt, ended up in O'Reilly's one day and decided to look at some of the gasket scrapers - they are generally made from tool steel and would hold up a lot better. Ran across an odd scraper/pry bar tool made by Titan - this thing is perfect for the job of cleaning a deck quickly, got 3 of them now, lol. Less than $10, great tool and seems to be decent enough steel. The hooked end works excellent for reaching under the deck and cleaning out the gunk when it starts discharging the clippings in wads - I've already used it quite a lot. Sarge
  15. Tire Chains

    Mud, water spots, hills and other issues are the reason I run chains all year 'round. The yard here is not flat and is prone to flooding a large area that at one time was a natural drainage ditch - mowing it at times can be a hassle but the Horse goes through it like it's not there. Several times a year I end up towing out the neighbor's zero turn mower on their half of that ditch, last time it was seriously buried and stuck but the 16Auto didn't care a bit, lol. Here's what I have to contend with and have taken on even worse properties with ease, except on side hills which are a no-no for splash lube engines anyway. One day after a 3.2" rainfall - The chains do leave some tracks in the grass, but it soon disappears - that whole area had 2" of standing water in it when I mowed. Cleans the deck nicely, though... You can also spot one of the common barn swallows that follow me around gulping up insects in mid-flight. They can get a bit distracting when they zip past your head at 40+mph, I've had 2 hit me by accident. 2-links work fine, but the Euro or Diamond pattern should work better and be more friendly to hard pavement and such. Sarge
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