Jump to content

Sarge

Supporter
  • Content count

    2,311
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Sarge last won the day on February 18

Sarge had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,343 Excellent

1 Follower

About Sarge

  • Rank
    RedSquare Pro

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1277 , '73 16 Auto , '74 C-160 , '74/75? D-180
  • favoritemodel
    1277

Profile Information

  • Military Member
    Marines
  • Location
    Ohio, Illinois
  • Occupation
    Union Laborer , Local 393
  • Interests
    Wheel Horse's and fabricating , old Land Cruisers , welding
    http://pure-gas.org/
  1. 1. Go through the adjustment procedure in the manual for the pto clutch - it needs to be quite a bit tighter from your description. 2. Make sure the sprocket teeth aren't worn down too far - it's a common problem and they can be replaced. The chain needs to be set snug at first and run it in for a few minutes, then re-adjust per the manual. Sarge
  2. The now extinct Valspar Restoration series enamel was great - 2 decent coats got full color depth but the stuff they replaced it with takes 4-5 and seems to never properly harden, ugh. What I'm curious about with the VanSickle paint is how well it flows out - flash to "set" time to achieve it's gloss . A lot of this stuff requires different thinner when using hardener , otherwise it comes out very rough and dull but it can back fire on you and take forever to fully cure. The Magik branded stuff at TSC is notorious for that - 6 months later, even with hardener added you can scratch it off with a fingernail easily. In the last few years since the demise of the Valspar I've switched to using reducers from the auto parts stores - they have varying grades to slow down the flash off and allow the paint to flow out better to produce a much nicer gloss that doesn't need a lot of buffing work after drying. Some types are referenced by heat range, others by time grade, they work very well for paints that don't want to play nice. These reducers are also a big help when dealing with hotter temps during the summer when conditions are less than ideal . I've been able to lay paint in high heat and humidity with predictable results - prior to using the stuff it was really taking a chance. I need to pick up a quart of the VanSickle this summer and just try it on something - plenty of projects coming if I have the time and much of that stuff is attachment parts that can easily be blasted clean again if it doesn't work out. Sarge
  3. I'm always on the hunt for that and other parts - especially the lift mechanism for my '52 Atlas/Clausing model 1810 in pieces all over the shop. Working on the column more tomorrow to finish cleaning it, welding a few more scars and get it hot wax coated, then onto welding other worn/broken parts from kids beating it up. That one is a monster project, parts are expensive and I haven't even touched the original Atlas motor yet. The table/head lift's gears are badly worn, doubt they will work much longer so I'm planning some experiments with special filler rod on the tig - hoping they are cast steel but I doubt it . Almost 800lbs of iron but it is very well built - this one has the extended length spindle on it and some really huge double roller bearings, built like a tank. Very unique table and head lift setup - every drill press should be built like this one. Oh, and got lucky as this model had the larger production table w/slots and oil channels..:) The Buffalo will probably be left in a patina finish and just oil it up good - bolt it to the 1,100lb welding table and leave it there, need a small one like that anyway. Also have a Delta DP220 that's in great shape - got to hunt some reduction pulley stacks for both it and I'd like a stand alone set w/smooth bore for a column-mounted reduction on the Clausing to help protect the original motor from the VFD unit . Too many projects at once, as usual. Sarge
  4. Nice job on the frame hole alignment - those are a pain . I generally weld the hole up where it worn, die grind it out until round enough to use a bridge reamer and cut it to fit bronze flange bearings. Solves that wear issue even if the pin can rotate loose - the pin will wear out first. Sarge
  5. How is the flash off on that VanSickle paint with the hardener in it , fast or slow ? I need to look into their paint more - everything else other than automotive grades is becoming less and less solids content. Took 3 heavy coats to get the color with the Rustoleum equipment paint on the trailer - that was no fun. Sarge
  6. Gas Shut Off Valve Leak

    There are also some Viton stem seals in small diameters at the hardware stores, even cone types that I used to repair these old fuel valves. Sarge
  7. Sent... Measurements , I presume ? Sarge
  8. Opinions please. 1964 Lawn Ranger

    Yeah - ags, 'nuff said. Sarge
  9. I had a stamped frame Huskee do the same thing - we had a custom race shop so it got a sub frame installed - that one will never bend again, lol...it was from using the blade a but, uh, aggressively. None of the newer stamped sheet metal crap can keep up - son in law's 1067 came out of the scrap pile, aside from the obvious scratches it survived being tossed on there by the grappling hook - we had it running that afternoon and it still runs today just fine. Same with his new-looking 48" deck he found at the same place the next week , but they had crushed the C series it was mounted under with the magnet a little too far to save it - looked better than that Husqvarna in the picture though....lol. Sarge
  10. Plow trouble

    I could see them getting worn if the blade was being tripped constantly - otherwise they shouldn't be a problem. Those castings could be built up and re-profiled by a welder... Sarge
  11. The older housings can be modified to run with a replaceable wear/cutting edge - I plan to rebuild the housing on my old one this summer if I can get the time. I'll just cut it in and weld it along with the other housing repairs - this one is beaten badly , as most are. Sarge
  12. That part is entirely up to you - in all honesty we can't give input because it's not our pet as you say . If it were mine I would keep her around due to her desire to continue to live despite the health problems - gotta give that pup a lot of credit for being amazingly tough, she sets an example for the rest of us. Sarge
  13. Plus, the use of a solenoid will extend the lifespan of those rare Cole-Hersee switches - they do not last forever when the starters get worn or have a bad set of brushes, especially the older starter-gens . I plan to update my 1277 when I rebuild it - hate having that much amperage sitting in the dash. They worked fine, but it's a danger that wasn't necessary in my opinion and hd solenoids were available at the time these were built , albeit a bit larger than what we have today. Put a modern agm high CCA battery in an older tractor and those switches won't last all that long too, just fyi. I can't recall - did the '69 Raider use the L key or just a straight one ? Can't wait to see that one done - it's going to be pretty nice, great job. Sarge
  14. I wish more were designed that way - easier to build one off adapters for other uses of tools, great catch. I fear I'll never find another top spindle pulley for mine - it's common these get knocked over and broken or folks using the wrong tool to disassemble them for service/restoration. Old cast parts are brittle beyond belief, especially these pulley stacks. Glad you got yours off - you're lucky not to damage/break it . Even if dropped on concrete, they are done for...easily. I like the other style/design from OTC, but they don't have a very good track record and seem to break easily, too bad. Sarge
  15. Plow trouble

    Just fyi - all caps is yelling on forums and other places - no offense. If they are simply pulling off , something is wrong. Sarge
×