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Sarge

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About Sarge

  • Rank
    Senior Advanced Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1277 , '73 16 Auto , '74 C-160 , '74/75? D-180
  • favoritemodel
    1277

Profile Information

  • Military Member
    Marines
  • Location
    Ohio, Illinois
  • Occupation
    Union Laborer , Local 393
  • Interests
    Wheel Horse's and fabricating , old Land Cruisers , welding
    http://pure-gas.org/
  1. 54" snow blade question

    The spring sits inside the sector piece and uses a cotter pin to keep it under pressure . I put bushings into the 3 sector holes for the pin to fix a lot of wear that was in it . You could put a slight bend at the point of the rod right next to where it comes close to the spring - it would change the swing slightly but give you enough room to lock in on the right angle setting . Mine is really close , but it locks fine . All the rods and the main lock pin is 304 SS rod stock - had to make all new ones for this one - they really abused it badly . Sarge
  2. Spark plug cover

    Yep - certain old Briggs engines used those - I have only ever seen one at an engine show in one piece , great find . To think they would go to the trouble to make that from stamped tin in that detail shows the workmanship of that era - so lost on today's world of plastic and disposable junk . Sarge
  3. a fiery side project

    That would be pretty cool to build if you can get a cutter to do the detail into the plate steel . That would work for other things as well - nice job on the layout work , looks great . Sarge
  4. That engine is the old Briggs 9hp iron unit with updraft carb . The numbers are either along the edge of the block or stamped into the blower housing - the paint may be hiding them on the outside but most times on the inside they are legible if you don't want to sand it . A buddy's dad has the same engine and parts are tough to find but I did locate a carb kit that fit it on the 'net - wish I could remember the model number of the engine - it's not very long and there were no spec or serial numbers on those . Made in the early 50's from what I remember and they are a low rpm (3,000) high torque engine . His pulls a hydraulic pump on a yard roller that a local welder built back in the 50's - he made 3 of them from what we're told and weigh around 1-1/2 tons . When you pull the rope to start it go slow and steady or you risk hurting yourself , that is a lot of rotating mass in that engine and they don't roll over easily if the rings are in good shape - his roller is a pain to start and with the carb issues it would wear out several guys taking turns trying to pull that rope , lol . His got gunked up from old gas over the years and plugged all of it's jets and mixing tubes - a good cleaning and new gaskets it was easy to tune and will run on the 1st or 2nd pull now . They are known to be very cold blooded , so keep that in mind - not to mention having that updraft carb and very long intake tube . Wish I hadn't lost all my files as I had a full digital manual for those older Briggs engines - they were quite overbuilt for their time and many will still run today despite their age .I keep thinking that thing is a model 9N or something...can't shake the cobwebs loose today but it's identical to the one on the roller . Here's a couple of the N models - Somewhere around here I have notes on that thing - no idea where right now . Took some real digging to find all the info on it but there is a lot of support for those antique Briggs units . Sarge
  5. Grand Daughters

    That is a great pic and I'm sure we all in our ways own enjoy having kids around - I have one daughter but she gave us 4 grandkids . The title of Dad is awesome , but the title of "Papa" is almost better , lol . I can have the worst day ever going on and when come over and show their excitement to see Papa it just makes the day a whole lot better . I run 2 blocks out of my way to go past their house on the way to the brush dump outside of town , if their outside Papa has to always stop and say hi no matter how busy with chores - those little kids are my life and my reward . They love the WH's and their Dad even found an old 1067 to mow with - the boys can't leave it alone most of the time . Papa gives wagon rides behind Big Ugly - the grins are worth the time . Sarge
  6. Just a tip - if you want to store paint for any length of time after it's been opened and keep any oxygen from starting to cure it in the can you can fill the can with inert gas if you have either a mig or tig welder . Disconnect the ground , disable the wire feed if needed and cycle the gas through the welder to fill up the can - I use plastic wrap under the lid to make a really tight seal . Filling it with argon or CO2 mix will stop almost any paint mix from hardening and wrecking the left overs - both those inert gasses are heavier than air and will push out the O2 in less than a few seconds . Same with bigger cans - I've stored left over gallons that had reducer mixed in already for years with no problems . It's also the preferred method for storing chemical coatings such as POR-15 and others since they are cured by O2 and humidity - the inert gas will keep them fresh for a long time . Just make absolutely certain that can is isolated from the ground so the welder can't light off a spark and ignite the stuff - that would be bad . You could just use the gas line directly off the bottle and use the regulator to keep the pressure/flow set low and do it that way , a lot safer . Sarge
  7. 54" snow blade question

    Here's mine - had to rebuild this plow frame after someone totally destroyed it and welded a bunch of plates on there - it was a mess but I built it to match the original design as close as I could . The flat plate where the arm fits into the hole has a washer between it and the plate - not sure if the original rod had a slight bend at that end but this design works fine . Sarge
  8. Finally got the new battery ordered - O'Reilly's 47PLT which is the "Platinum" series AGM from East Penn . Even comes with a handle and the only real issue is it's size and the right hand positive when fitted into a D . This battery is big - measuring 9-9/16"L x 6-7/8"W x 7-1/2" T . Pretty much the limit as to what will still clear the hydro linkage assembly and still fit within the left side panel . I had to move the fuel lines as well as some creative work to route the choke cable and keep it away from that positive post to prevent vibration wearing through the vinyl coating and shorting it out . I also had to be build a new plastic tray which is required to keep the heat from the hydro pump from cooking the battery as well as directing air flow to cool the pump from the engine's flywheel intake fan . I had a sheet of ABS plastic that has scored lines to bend it - the material is used to mount mobile audio equipment into various cars . Some flat iron stock and a bit of heat along with a few clamps made easy work of that part . I initially used a black wire tie to weld the corner joints , but being the wrong material versus the base abs it wanted to become brittle and crack . Ripped some thin strips of the left over abs and used that to weld the corners with my Portasol butane soldering iron - worked great although it had to be done outside due to all the smoke . Once the tray was final fitted there is no room for error here - even the hold down rods just clear the new tray - You'll notice how the choke cable wants to lay right on top of the positive post area - had to rethink that whole thing so it cannot wear through the vinyl coating and short the cable out to the battery . At 690 amps it would turn that cable into a welding stinger quickly , we don't want that ...lol . I used a vinyl coated clamp (buy 'em in bulk from McMaster) and put a twist in it to match the angle of attack on the cable . Then , using an upside down flange nut below the clamp and one coming down from the top on the threaded hold down rod allows the height to be adjusted to make a smooth angle to the carb area and prevent the cable from binding . For whatever reason , that choke cable has always wanted to interfere with the brace in the hood - didn't like it rubbing that way and trying to destroy the cable so I scribed the brace to follow the hood's shape better and cut it out with the air nibbler . No clearance issues now and makes for a neater install - Since Big Ugly looks more like an industrial piece than anything - I gave the new cables a matching look and also isolated them from any metal contact for safety reasons . here's the final look - Hood closes perfectly and the big battery rolls that engine quite easily . Also seemed to stop some of the crazy responses from the amp gauge once it was brought up to working rpm and it's holding a nice and steady 14.2v at the battery . I need to finish the rest of the wiring on the tractor and install an overhead bar for the flood lamps - I get stuck working it a lot at night in the winter and the stock headlights are less than adequate for me . I'll probably work on retrofitting some round led's into the stock location and use two pair of led flood cubes on the light bar . Might look like an alien craft but at least I'll be able to see what I'm doing...lol . Wish this engine had the bigger 30 amp charging system , pretty limited with the original 15 amp setup but I think I can stay under that total draw limit . Sarge
  9. I had the same issue - no adjustment would stop the creep in reverse , even when I adjusted it to run forward slightly with the neutral setting . Last time I worked on fixing that front seal leak I changed both trunion bearings and seals - it hasn't had that creep issue since . LJ , at LJ Fuild Power explained that those bearings get hammered and worn by the piston block and it's pulsations when running - this will cause the bearings to go bad over time as well as leaks . He was right , both shafts had a witness mark of sorts - no wear on the shafts with a mic but that does indicate bearing wear . He did say any slop in those bearings will make it move the pump arm on it's own as well from vibration - which is what mine was doing besides the oil leaks . Now , I can stomp the pedal down from either direction and trust it enough to get off the seat although I will put it in park just to be safe . As soon as I mentioned it had a delay between putting it to neutral and the thing wanting to creep on it's own he brought up that bearing issue - seemed to ring a bell with him . #1 step is to tie that clutch/brake pedal down tight - as if you were stomping on it with your foot . Using your leg to push it to neutral is more force than you'd think so tie it down tight when setting the cam on the pump arm . Step #2 is to set the handle to the neutral spot , then #3 is to set the distance on the parking brake . All of this is basically the same on all the D's with some differences in how later models used a different linkage setup . The arm on that pump travels a very short distance so everything at that end is quite sensitive , very minor changes make a big difference . I'd bet if you replaced the offset ground eccentric on the arm and the triangle section with new parts (probably have to be fabricated) it would solve a lot of issues . I had to make a new sleeve for mine - it was stuck and nearly worn through from wear against the triangle part . Early models I know for sure also had a serious weak point and a lot of wear at the handle due to how it's cut for the cross pin that allows it to swing in two directions 90* from each other to match that guide pattern on the dash assembly . I've been trying to figure out how to make that work in a different manner other than the original oval hole that was used originally , that's been driving me nuts because there is little room for mods in there . I do need to make a new handle - mine is close to the point of breaking in half due to the wear . Since I freed up that eccentric on the pump arm as well as the handle parts it does work better , although now it seems slower in reverse than it was before . I need to address that so when I'm plowing snow on long runs I can spend a lot less time freezing my hide off . Sarge
  10. 56" D blade leveling

    The springs won't have hardly any effect on the blade other than the tension to prevent tripping - the 56" uses 4 of them and they are in great shape . Shimming the rear hitch isn't a bad idea - it would help to pre-load the frame to compensate for that extra weight from the direction/latch assembly as those parts and mountings are really heavy steel . Those shafts are solid 1" material alone and the mount plate is 1/4" thick . I'll have to see if I can put a piece of 1/4" plate or something between the rear axle housing and that frame mount for the blade - maybe that would help . The frame is dead square and flat from one end to the other at the blade's pivot point and has been seriously beefed up . Sarge
  11. I'll have to grab a finished pic - I gave it an industrial look to match Big Ugly , lol... Sarge
  12. We get surprises like that here pretty often - their last "whoops" missed the forecast by a foot of the heavy wet stuff . Forecast for 2"-3" , got 13" and high winds . Those little clipper systems coming down from Canada can have some weird effects on the MidWest . Sarge
  13. D-200 hydro fluid.

    Amen , that Mobil 1 synthetic flows extremely well in cold weather - sure helps with the D's pump being coupled directly to the engine , especially when it's really cold out . Sarge
  14. Did a small battery upgrade on Big Ugly - Sheet of 12"x12"x1/8" abs that is made for car audio installation - been sitting here for years . Some heat from a mini torch used for soldering and shrink boot , a couple strips of steel to bend the stuff and clamps worked to make a new battery tray for the D . I used a group 47 agm from O'Reilly's - made by East Penn and it's about 1/4" longer than the oem tray so I made this - Didn't have any abs filler rod around - so I ripped thin strips from the leftover scrap of the same abs panel and used that along with a Portasol SuperPro 125 butane soldering iron and a flat tip to weld the corners solid . Box fit nice and tightly - no real room to spare . Had to re-route the fuel lines and build new cables for the grounds and the feed to the starter solenoid . Not much room left in there , but this engine should whip over easily at even -20F* or worse with no problem - a group 47 is about as tight as it gets . The starter hammers into that flywheel now with some real authority and the engine spins much faster . This big K starts easier than anything else I own - choke at half , hit the key and it fires almost instantly . Perfect... Sarge
  15. First time in 18 years

    We got a few flakes yesterday morning , just enough to show some evidence on the truck - nothing else yet . Suppose to get a dusting tomorrow - but I still need to install the bigger battery in the infernal D - Big Ugly ...lol . That's today's project , if I can heat the shed up enough...can't we have snow with warmer temps ? Sarge
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