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Sarge last won the day on February 18

Sarge had the most liked content!

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About Sarge

  • Rank
    RedSquare Pro

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1277 , '73 16 Auto , '74 C-160 , '74/75? D-180
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Military Member
  • Location
    Ohio, Illinois
  • Occupation
    Union Laborer , Local 393
  • Interests
    Wheel Horse's and fabricating , old Land Cruisers , welding
  1. MICE!!!!!!

    In the fall season, I could always count on extra hours when I worked at the truck shop. Farmers would wait until the last moment to bring their trucks in for repairs (despite it being broken all summer) and mice would add about 30% more work cleaning out heaters, air cleaners, wiring, and gauges. Spring was the same way - equipment stored with ethanol-laced fuels would cause a slew of problems and the mice would make the whole thing worse. Dryer sheets, poison, cats, and traps had little effect - we even tried installing stainless screen wire over any openings where they could damage things only to have them chew holes in parts that are very tough to replace, especially plastic heater housings buried deep inside the dash. Mice and ethanol rank equal in my hatred range - both should be eliminated. 3 of my tractors acquired over the years were from mice damage - the rest were from ethanol - maybe not so bad after all? I'm currently working on a towing rig for a 3pt hitch, hope to have it done soon. I'm done with trying to use straps, chains or whatever to tow dead tractors. Sarge
  2. I ran two valve stems on the wheels I used and no tubes with RV antifreeze - nearly 7.5 gallons per rear tire. That resulted in nearly blowing out my lower back when I lifted the 1st one off the bench - it also had the 50lb cast iron weight bolted into it. 145lbs each rear, no spinning, lol... You have to block the wheel up at just the right angle to really fill them up at maximum, but be aware your frame/rear axle will probably suffer as a result. Sarge
  3. 1984 C195 & 416-8 Restoration

    I'm about ready to sell my pickup truck and go find one of those 195's, man - I love that model. Sarge
  4. D200 starter mount broken

    Never seen anyone break off the casting on a K482/532, ect. Must have been some gorilla with a 5lb hammer trying to get the starter to kick in on a bad armature or brushes - no excuse there. That's a pretty high torque spot on that casting, make sure you find someone really practiced on cast iron before letting them repair it. Sarge
  5. cannonball horse

    0: 16-second mark - early C series. Sarge
  6. Loading Shovel

    Nice work - got any pics from the underside of the frame setup? Sarge
  7. Tobacco Road GT14

    You will need o-ring seals if you use heat - be prepared for that. Heat the nut only, never the shaft - that way, the nut swells and breaks the rust loose. Most items built like this won't need glowing red/orange heat range, just get it good n hot and if necessary use some paraffin wax at the joint. As the nut breaks loose, that paraffin will creep inside the joint and lubricate it, much easier to get it off and clean it up. I use a vise with a set of aluminum jaws to hold the shaft as Dave described in his drawing. I also remove the roll pin to allow the nut to be removed so it and the shaft can be cleaned properly. You cannot heat that nut if it's still on the transmission unless you want to destroy the entire valve block . Btw, when removing parts like this in a hydraulic or pressure-fed system, be sure to bleed off pressure through cylinders and such first. Also, always clean the area around the part of any dirt/debris or risk getting it in places it can do damage. If you don't have an air compressor, you can use "canned air" or dust-off for computers. Once the nut is cracked loose about 1/2 a turn, clean it again. Not advisable to use liquid cleaners or brake cleaner - it will carry the dirt right where you don't want it to go. Sarge
  8. Tobacco Road GT14

    I've had several of those that had to be heated up with the red and green wrench before those nuts would break free - due to the tight clearance that nut can rust weld itself right onto the shaft tightly. One of them, after freeing it up got an o-ring added at the top - it seems to help keep the moisture out and prevent the rust issue. I would think the best way to address these on a more permanent direction would be to machine a groove into the shaft or inside of the nut and make provisions for a tight-fitting o-ring or flat seal, that would stop the whole problem. I've already had one tractor that I spent the time to get the thing loose, cleaned, re-painted and new seals only to have it lock up again in less than 2yrs - that's enough to aggravate the Pope... Sarge
  9. I can't count the number of push mowers that have been dropped off here that was in that condition. Most times their owner just went and bought another new one, only to find out the newer model was a piece of junk. I just fixed a late 70's Simplicity up for a friend, he's finally learned that the older models were built better, albeit quite a bit heavier - that one always starts on the first pull and uses far less fuel while having a lot more power than today's overrated engines. Around the neighborhood there's a running joke about the older lady that lives diagonally from us - she can kill any small engine in less than 1yr, without even trying. Sarge
  10. Iola Car Show ‘18

    My "playground" on trips to relatives in 1966 was in the back window tray of a '66 Dodge Charger - 383/4spd, brushed silver w/red interior. I still remember that huge back window on that fastback styling in the first generation. In '67, Dad traded that one in (the 383 would never run right) for a '67 Plymouth GTX, 440/automatic in Navy blue/blue interior. He raced that one a lot in the stock classes, ran an entire season undefeated with it and got some backing support from Chrysler for it. The '67 was always either at the track, or the body shop - seemed like everyone in the world wanted to hit it. He finally got fed up and bought the monster in 1970 - Dodge Charger 440-6/automatic, black with saddle tan leather, a rare RT/SE that today would be worth a fortune. Engine suffered some factory mistakes from day one - in '72 it was pulled out and totally overhauled/modified by my great uncle - to around 650hp. Best time it pulled in the 1/4 mile was 10.67ET on 8" slicks. He quit racing it in early '74 due to being protested too much, then my stepmother totaled the car later that fall. In the late '70s, after a divorce, all his pictures, along with a lot of the trophies and certificates from Chrysler were lost to a basement flood, I do have a very few stored somewhere in his old stuff that is in storage - need to dig those up and have them digitized. Needless to say - I prefer old Mopars, but love everything from the muscle car era. Getting a real kick out of the direction Mopar has gone lately, starting to dive deeper into the no-holds-barred realm of horsepower, again. A local guy here has a Challenger Hellcat, just ordered a new Demon as well to complete the package. My Stepdad has always been a Chevy fan - he currently has a '70 black Nova, Camaro and a magazine-build '70 Chevelle wagon. All are getting put up for sale now - his kidneys have failed and he just went home yesterday to live out his final few days with a home-hospice care setup. Almost feels like the end of an era - the guys that bought these things new, built, raced and used them for daily drivers for years are quickly going away from age/health. So glad to see the resurgence in car show interest keeping these things around and out in the public eye - instead of sitting in a collection somewhere on blocks, never to be seen again. Sarge
  11. 1077 99% complete

    I may have 2 spares here, I'll have to look. One is nearly perfect - that's going on the 1277 when it gets redone for sure. Those '67s were pretty much the most elegant model WH ever built, with the D's being by far the ugliest stepchild known to man. I have a pic somewhere of the D180 sitting next to the 1277, wow.... Sarge
  12. Absolutely always wear goggles with muriatic acid, never just safety glasses. One good splash to an eye and it's done for good. Use it a lot in my work, so I'm used to it - but just some simple precautions will go a long way. Do not wear any clothes/shoes you're not willing to throw away and I'd advise rinsing them in clean water outside when you're done - it will prevent the acid from slowly eating holes from small drops of the stuff that always seems to fly everywhere. No matter what, always have a garden hose handy in case of any accidental splashes - without it you may regret it. Sarge
  13. Very glad to hear the news - Glen has been a staple around here for a very long time, nice to hear he's on the mend. Might want to post up a direct link for all the newbies we seem to have gotten this year. Sarge
  14. 4th of july plans

    No real plans as usual - just worked at home. No fireworks, just set myself on fire torching off a big bearing for a buddy - does that count? Managed to finally mow again, despite the on/off rain showers. Off work for now, but I need a break of some sort. Nice to see everyone getting a chance to spend time with family, love the pics. Sarge
  15. Kohler 532 timing and other problems (maybe!)

    I've never used a solid state ignition kit on a small engine - never felt the need for it since a properly working points system will last for decades. Now, these days the points material is a serious downgrade to how they were built years ago, a 30yr old set, if not worn out - would be better to have than the new replacements. The static timing method is a just a base for getting it set up initially. Once the points are set, then you must use the timing light to set the final timing. Keep in mind to have the idle speed set properly - if it's off it will affect that governor/timing marks. I need to sit down and read through the manual again on these twins - it's been awhile and have worked on a plethora of engines since, very fuzzy about it now. Speaking of which, I need to run the overhead on the old Land Cruiser before it gets sold as it's overdue and developing a slight tick at idle. Sarge