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Sarge last won the day on February 18

Sarge had the most liked content!

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About Sarge

  • Rank
    RedSquare Pro

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1277 , '73 16 Auto , '74 C-160 , '74/75? D-180
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Military Member
  • Location
    Ohio, Illinois
  • Occupation
    Union Laborer , Local 393
  • Interests
    Wheel Horse's and fabricating , old Land Cruisers , welding
  1. I'm starting to wonder if the weak leg issue we've had here for a while is the culprit to my compressor motor blowing up in spectacular fashion the other night - guess I'd better run some voltage tests again...ugh. I hate dealing with Comical Ed, getting them to fix anything is not a lot of fun. Sarge
  2. Came home after work the other night to find some of my steel was wet from a rain - blew it dry with the air hose and put it inside to keep it from rusting any worse. When I went down into the shop I heard a very loud buzzing coming from the equipment room - it was my compressor motor. The old Dayton farm duty 5hp single phase had enough of pulling that old Speed-Air pump and let the smoke out in a spectacular fashion, wow - that thing got hot! Looking around, not easy to find a decent quality severe duty motor - especially with the following specs... 230v single phase 5hp, at least 1-1/18" shaft size 1740-1750 rpms Continuous duty The Dayton I had on it that is cooked was an L231T frame, not even sure what other frame styles would work on this old girl but I suspect the common 184T should be similar. I see a lot of negative reviews and feedback on nearly all the common brand names from years ago - I'd imagine they have been bought up and made half as good as they used to be, like everything else. Compressor was originally equipped with a 3 phase motor, this one came out of a corn crib lift that a buddy had given me to do the swap. Is there any brands that are reliable enough for the severe duty I put this thing through? When I blasted my trailer for the rebuild/repaint - that was 7hrs of continuous running at full load feeding a pressure pot. There are days I'll run the glass bead cabinet for 12hrs straight to clean parts/metal for getting things done - need a motor that can keep up and not break the bank. Sarge
  3. You can use a rising rate pressure regulator and an electric pump or a matching pressure system - either one isn't cheap but they do work. I'd prefer a blower myself, much easier to work with and I love the sound, lol. Sarge
  4. D -160 cooling fan

    I would expect the threshold to be somewhere around 180*F to cool off a hydro system, maybe higher, but at 180* that oil is getting pretty cooked. Sarge
  5. There is the option of going to a drain hose instead of the plug or an elbow/extension. Figure out the thread size, have a hydraulic shop make up a cheap hose with a cap on the outer end and you have yourself a remote drain. There are outfits that make them specifically for different equipment and engines - due to how these newer box-store lawn tractors are built - the hose is a necessity. Sarge
  6. Seafoam. Your thoughts

    Seafoam has changed - not just in color, either. Doesn't work nearly as well as it used to but it can help clear varnish. The B-12 does seem to work a lot better but be careful using it in modern emission engines. Most of the true cleaners have lost the zip due to EPA rules, no substitute for taking a carb apart and give it a real cleaning. On picky engines, replace the idle mix needle, main jet needle, and a new main jet - they work like new again as long as the throttle shaft isn't worn. If you use ethanol - you're on your own there. Sarge
  7. The Gods must be crazy, parts 1 & 2...love it. Sarge
  8. 3pt Wrecker attachment

    Working on that very thing this weekend, after I pick up the clippings from this very wet month we've had already. Been mowing every 3-4 days here, that's just nuts for September. The D's pump is still quite stout after all the work - tested it's lifting power by nearly getting the rear axle off the ground on the '77 Land Cruiser, that was pretty impressive. Sarge
  9. 3pt Wrecker attachment

    Hopefully, I'll have time today or this weekend to start building all the bracketry for the wheel lift parts. Also, have to come up with a set of locking pins and pins to help return it to center for certain tasks. Need to mow again first, playing catch up with the grass in September is a bit odd but we've had some really heavy rains lately. I ran into some odd magnetic field issues when trying to weld the inside of those braces with the Tig, spent a whole lot of time destroying tungsten and having to use the die grinder to remove the debris. Finally just took it out and stick welded that last couple of welds - still fought with some arc blow. Need to check our electrical supply again, seems like one leg is weak or the neutral is not working consistently - that stuff really shows up in some weird places with welders. Both the Miller Dynasty 200DX and the AHP Alpha160 are having some weird issues at times. Really wish we had 3ph here, but even those that do here in town it's not a true 3ph power, but a false type. The hardest part to figure out is the lift range and getting clearance to the tires on the D, plus, I wanted to keep it as short as possible to give the D's lift the most advantage I can. If it were built too far back, the D might not lift the 2/3 weight factor of a dead tractor and also make it harder to maneuver. Fall/winter is coming way too fast, I'll be lucky if it can be completed this year, let alone blasted/painted. Sarge
  10. How do you build battery cables?

    I use the caveman lug crimper with a hammer like so many - but solder the connection first. After it's crimped, I prefer the heavier dual wall shrink boot w/adhesive and then dip the end of the connection that will make the mechanical contact in NO-OX-id electrical grease. Solder will help prevent rotting of the copper if any oxygen gets inside due to the cable's sheath - the No-Ox-id will keep it off the mechanical end of the connection and help it last a lot longer without corrosion. I've never had to repair any connection that was coated in No-Ox-id. I prefer to dip the connector into the stuff while it's still good and hot so it can wick into any voids. https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Special-Electrical-Contact-Corrosion/dp/B00HDF9EXE/ref=pd_sim_263_3/136-6783487-5198756?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00HDF9EXE&pd_rd_r=c3ec1bb2-b68b-11e8-b560-8d045d38d0f1&pd_rd_w=EyFrC&pd_rd_wg=9IuBq&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&pf_rd_r=Y7V8YN8P931WZNYEH2AY&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=Y7V8YN8P931WZNYEH2AY Sarge
  11. Been wanting to figure out a better way to move dead tractors around - some, just isn't cooperative at being towed - the AC 916H is a great example around here. Since the rear axle is a hydro, it does not disengage fully for some reason and the tires are really shot badly. The 16Auto dug some big holes the last time I tried to move it around, so the idea here is to use the D's 3pt lift and it's size/weight advantage to move other dead tractors. I also wanted a toolbar that could have adapters added for various tasks - such as cultivators, tines, rear blade, ect. I've wanted to build a wrecker for years, just never had the time to do it - this year, I decided I've had enough of my aching back and legs - this needs to get done before I end up in the hospital. Always seems there is no help available when I need it, so now is the time - here is where I'm at as of now... All built from 1/4" thick iron, except the hub mounting plate which 1/2" thick A50 steel. Trailer hub/stub shaft is a 1750lb rated unit. In hindsight, if I ever did it again I'd use a heavier DOM tubing and just turn it to accept bearing races, make the shaft on the lathe and be done with it. Not to mention, I could control the thickness of the assembly a lot better. There are "rear tire carrier builder" parts available out there to do just that with pre-built tubing, the correct bearings and shaft - you just weld it into the square tubing of choice. Still a lot to do - need to make a set of centering springs, locking pins (for toolbar use), tire carrier arms w/tie-down rings, rear blade adapters, ect.... Just thought I'd share a bit - need to some lift testing today, hopefully. Sarge
  12. Snow plow skids or wheels?

    You could add a piece of channel iron to the back of the blade on each side, thought about doing that with a couple of my older units here. Sarge
  13. Great to hear. If you use a good oil quenched steel for the pin, it should work just fine. Even common A36 cold rolled would probably work on a small block single lunger.... 800lb straight sixes, not so much. I had to use oil quenched finished drill rod on my handle, bent 4 different pins before I got the engine to turn over on The AntiChrist (FJ40). Sarge
  14. Does it look out of place?

    Very nice score - both the trailer and Kubota look to be in great condition, a rare find these days. How loud is the pump on the orange monster? Sarge
  15. Another whattizzitt...

    That style of coupling was my original idea for fixing the weak point in the D series drive system - the Sundstrand uses an odd 17 spline shaft that is very small and the original coupling was cast iron. Over time, they wear, and when it lets go the whole thing is junk. I had talked to LJ Fluid power about having their shafts made with a more common keyed bore to use those very Lovejoy couplings versus the stock, NLA cast iron parts and rubber puck - but they want to stick to stock for some reason. A lot of D's get parted/scrapped because of the factory weak point - I'd like to figure out a solution that has replaceable parts. Sarge