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Wyattrrp

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About Wyattrrp

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday December 12

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    '81 C-125/8 & 42" SD Deck(Orig Owner)
    '90 312-8 & 48" SD Deck
    '82 B-85/5 & 36" RD Deck
    '85 314-A & 37" SD Deck for Vac
    '80s C-85 for Parts
    48" Snow/Dozer Blade, Wts, Chains
    42" Snow Thrower High Chute, Wts, Chains
    10 CF Trailer
    8HP EZ-Vac Leaf Vac Large Trailer
    6HP Trac-Vac Grass Vac Small Trailer
    42" Parker Lawn Sweeper
  • favoritemodel
    C-125 Black Hoods

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central MA
  • Occupation
    Prof

Recent Profile Visitors

2,610 profile views
  1. Snow Blower Sprockets

    Read my note on the Chain Question 3 posts above this one for the sprockets. I didn't realize these posts get reshuffled when a response is posted. Look at the post asking about the chain on a tall chute blower
  2. I have bought bearings for the end of the drive shaft on a 79369 single stage thrower and the #40 roller chain sprockets at the big bearing store . Delivery within 3 days. The sprockets at TSC are $20 each if I recall and this link is for the same sprockets made in China of course but well built. Running for 4 years so far . Cheapest price I could find. BTW these have 17 teath while original riveted sprockets had 18 but as long as it is for a #40 roller chain not an issue.Get the correct diameter hole too. Mine as most are 1/2 inch bolt hole. http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/40-idler-sprockets-1/ Sorry for the clumsy typing. Blower w High Shoot # 79360 NOT 79369! Also TSC sprockets have 17 teeth too. Wyatt
  3. snow blower questions

    http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/44729-42-snow-blower-chain-length/ Here is a link to a past post and followup for a single stage blower chain question. My low and tall chute blowers that fit any of my C-125, 314A and 312-8's 12-14 HP tractors (1981-1995) each used a #40 chain. Tractor Supply Store sells 10 ft of #40 roller chain for $20. It takes about 4 ft of chain to replace the drive chain. This link describes it and how to cut the chain. I have used 51 female links and a master. Count your links on the old chain. The idlers can be from TSC too using a 17 tooth #40 sprocket they stock with the correct bolt hole size. I think those were more money, about $20 each, but well built. Other supply stores will ship them but they are heavy enough to add to the cost. There are many posts on this site listing those sprockets. The 10 ft chain is enough to make 2 replacements so after a few years for $10 you can replace it when it stretches so the adjustment bolt won't tighten the chain enough. Better to replace the chain than have one stretched and break under load then wrap around the shaft and stop the auger dead, doing damage to the shaft and housing. TSC also has the #40 master links cheap. Many use the old chain as a front wheel tire chain. Let air out of the tire, wrap the old chain around the tire down the center of tread front to back not sideways, and cut the chain so it will fit snug with the master link. Then re-inflate tire and it will bite into the tread making a linear tire chain down the center of tread. This is recycling the chain you are going to throw out. The re-inflated tire will hold the chain in the center of tread and will make the tractor steer well on ice and packed snow. Again this site will have numerous discussions of making those front tire chains. Good luck. Wyatt
  4. Deck maintenance?

    Just curious why not use a universwal blade balancer. They come with a total range of diameters and look like a pyramid cone shape with all the different hole diameters to sit you blade centered on the outer cone. That cone is hollow and sits on a spike mounted on a base. When the blade is on the outer cone it balances on the point of the spike, telling you if it is unbalanced left or right end of blade and also if the front to back is in balance. I have used one for 30 yrs and grind the end that is heaveir a bit more then it balances perfect. Never any vibration on the deck or for the hand mower rotary blade. Just a thought. Google "mower blade balancer" and you will see plenty of pictures and places to buy one. Wyatt
  5. Jackhammer Lifting and attachment arm rotates the Trunion and flag forward and back a bit so don't tie the flag tight in any position if leave the flag on. My heavy duty rubberband lets it move forward and back with no issue. I have done this for several years and come summer replace the rubberband when putting the deck on. Then no issue with flag left in place. This is a real benefit if you are someone that must switch back n forth from blower to plow as I did for 2 years, lay8ing on cold garage floor with dripping slush while trying to insert the pin into the trunion and getting the small cotter pin in.
  6. Craig Another point about the flag insertion into the tube. If the blower doesn't lift very high they call for thick washers slipped onto the flag rod, then insert flag into lift tube. In effect it extends the length of the lift tube to allow more forward movement swinging the blower up a bit higher off driveway. Don't go so high the lift tube hits the underside of the front axle. Add or subtract washers via trial and error. I don't have a problem rolling tractor straddling the lift rod then when close hold up the flag rod to align into the hole on lift rod. A little WD-40 helps it slide in as you move tractor forward then lift blower crossbar up into the front mount. The lift bar will stay on the flag rod fine. Good luck Wyatt
  7. By he way, when putting the blower back on crawl under and put the flag on first, then roll the tractor forward until the lift tube reaches the flag rod and align both then roll the tractor forward until the front mount is able to be lifted and inserted and clamped in by the rotating connector. no need to have flag in the tube then try to bring both up to align pin in Trunion. that is what is sounded like when I read your first entry again. Flag goes on first then worry about lifting tube to slide onto flag bar. Sorry if I misinterpreted but better said than stuggling.
  8. Craig For a few years until I had a 2nd tractor to mount the blade on one and blower on the other, I switched back n forth depending on storm. Laying on unheated garage floor. After a couple times I got wiser and to tell the truth I didn't remove the flag. I attached a medium width rubber band around a cross bar and looped the round bar on the flag, holding it up enough to clear the plow frame attachment. Didn't have to remove it if held up somewhat. If need the blower I unlooped it from flag and left band on cross bar and it never came off. Plow connects to rear axle not where near the flag. Lifting plow connects to the hole in front of the chain for the mower long Tee bar #27, Blower pin goes in top hole of #19 in diagram above and plow goes in front hole of #27 in diagram. Not really near each other if flag held up by rubber band. A medium to thick rubber band about 2 inches across center stretched will hold the flag rod up so not to interfere with plow frame chain or bar. I have about a 6 inch or so, not positive on length, multi-hole 1/4" x 1" bar between plow lift cross bar and that hole in #27 with a pin and cotter pin. I have even left the flag on the tractor all summer with mower deck on it and just had to replace the rubber band once when it got sort of dry rotted and stretched. Easier than trying to reach the pin to remove the cotter pin and remove flag every other storm. Trunion #19 hole is length of chain and eye bolt above #22 and flag attaches to #19 so plenty of clearance as long as it is suspended. thought about wiring the flag rod up but hey, if a simple strong rubber band works, fine with me as it is a quick fix. Good that Varosd posted the diagram above. You can see they really won't interfere if the flag is above the lower snow/grader blade hole. I forget what cross bar to loop band around but crawl under and it will be obvious. Rubber band allows it to lift and stretch the tension on the band then go back down with no issues. Easier than trying to remove that cotter pin up so high each time. Good luck Wyatt
  9. chain size snowthrower

    Read this in the same Implements about 10 questions below yours...
  10. nrowles About your original question. I plow with my 1981 C-125 /8 with chains and wheel weights on rear. I have front weights that i prefer on my 312 blower tractor to help steer turn the several hundred pound blower is on the pavement surface blowing. If wet heavy snow of 5-6" or more it may start to push the front of the tractor sideways, sliding the tires to the side, if blade is turned other way. Wet heavy snow windrow pushes you more than you push the snow. A simple way to help avoid that is put chains on the front tires. The heavy snow sometimes doesn't want to slide off the angled blade and starts to pile up in front, then it will push the front sideways especially if plowing on a curved driveway in direction of blade angle. 2 things help. Lubricate the blade so snow slides off easier and front tire chains. I know if you search for front tire chain on here you should find a thread showing photos of the chain. For $20 at TSC you can buy a 10 foot length of #40 Roller Chain that comes with 1 master link. If doing one tire, which helps stop the front sliding sideways under normal conditions, that is all you need. If want to do both front tires buy a set of 4 #40 master links for the #40 roller chain at TSC for $3.00. You need about 3-4 ft of chain per front tire. The install includes letting air out of the front tires, running the chain around the tire when soft enough to loop the chain down the center of the tread and decide how long to cut the chain to fit the center line of tread, parallel to the tire, not across it like rear chains. Don't make the chain too short so the tire is half flat. Just so the tread is snug to the chain when slightly indented by the chain at low pressure. Allow length for the new master link too. Then install chain in center of tread, and increase tire pressure back to normal. The chain will bind into the tread a bit and stay on the center of the tire, with tread dented slightly to hold the chain. The chain will stop sideways sliding in icy or slushy, slippery snow. It may leave a mark on a newly coated asphalt driveway surface or slightly scratch concrete so if you have a manicured pavement surface, then maybe not for you. To cut the chain, you can search for I think Sparky's photos of chain cutting on here. He grinds the pin dubbed head off one side of a male link until flush with side of link, at the length you want, then sets a small size from a socket wrench set standing up on the bench (about 1/4 inch socket), then sets the flush ground pin into the socket hole with flush side up. Next take a punch and hammer the pin into the socket hole until it falls out of the female link. Need female link ends on each end of the chain so you can wrap the chain around the soft but not totally flat tire and insert the male master link. Then once centered front to back on the tread. add air to tire and it expands holding the chain in place tight. You can see a slight dent in the middle of the tread under the chain. For $20 you get a set for both front tires. Guys with a blower often replace auger chains (same #40 roller chain) and use the old chain on the front tire killing 2 birds with one stone. Blowers handle light snow really well but if really wet and slushy the blower may clog the chute so you have to stop to clean it out often. Same as walk behind blowers. So plowing wet snow is preferred as long as not super deep. Solution can be plow several times during the large storms.
  11. toro snowthrower model 79360

    Rexman If replacing the idler sprockets, which is a good idea if they are worn, wobbly or teeth sharply pointed, they are simply held by a single 1/2" bolt with spacer. Don't lose the spacer in removal. TSC carries both the #40 Roller Chain and a #40 Idler Sprocket and it has 17 teeth, not the original 18 teeth on Factory idler sprockets you remove. That is ok to get the 17 tooth #40 sprocket with 1/2 Inch bore for the bolt attachment. It will work fine allowing a tiny bit more allowance for future adjustment. However I found that the chain is only $20 and at the store no postage fee and it weighs a lot. But the #40 17 tooth idler sprockets are $20 each at TSC. You have 2 of them in the blower #79360. So add $40 if need both or want a spare when keeping the blower for many years. I found that the chain weighs so much the best bet is buy it at TSC as shipping costs make in more $$ than picking it up at TSC . However the idler sprockets weigh a lot less, so a cheaper way than spending $40 more $$ at TSC is to go to www.thebigbearingstore.com In the lower left of the home page menu click Roller Chain, then Sprockets, then Idler Sprockets #40. You will find the same #40 idler sprocket 17 tooth for $8.25. All are made in China but these look just as good as TSC China sprockets I had bought after 3 trips to the TSC store when they were out of stock each trip, and either one is a sealed bearing. Add 1 to cart at 1/2 inch bore and at checkout choose US Post Office 1st class delivery not UPS by default. USPS for 1 sprocket adds $4.72 1st class to the $8.25 sprocket for about $13 for 1. So not a lot cheaper saving $7 over TSC at $20. Chain at TSC is no brainer due to shipping. But if buying 2 idler sprockets the shipping drops per unit so yields $16.50 for 2 sprockets + USPS $7.94 = $24.44 total for 2. Delivered to your mail box within 3 days. At least to my area code in Mass. = $12.22 per sprocket. Not $20 at TSC. Save $15.56 if you can wait the few days. I find that thebigbearingstore.com ships same day or next day from my past experience. If you need blower drive shaft bearings or drive chain sprocket ever, let me know and the same place is cheap, fast and has specs on sizes of each critical bore size and teeth/keyway or lubed vs sealed too. My blower has run the idlers for 3 years now and still strong, not wobbling as original sprockets that were 2 halves riveted together. If you order do make sure you selected the 1/2 inch bore as it has a choice for another size. I agree check the idler sprockets condition and if need 2, then check this site out. If only one, probably not worth the savings when you can pick it up on the same trip to TSC (maybe if it is stock). Just my 2 cents. I prefer the $15.50 in my pocket than theirs. LOL. Wyatt
  12. Tall Shoot Snow Blower ?

    Follow this thread and I posted a drawing of the dimensions for adding a chute cover. It helps stop powder snow from flying out the front and if windy, back into your face. Deflect the snow straight upward. Mine also attaches with 2 1/4" bolts with wingnuts at the outer lower corners so very easy to remove if wet heavy snow storm which can fill the chute and clog it so I can remove it within 2 min prior to blowing.. Factory ones connect to bolts holding the tall chute to the base which is much more difficult to remove and reinstall. It is a long posting with help from several others. I include the scketch with dimensions and stock to buy, just click on the sketch to enlarge it. Wyatt
  13. Angle Lever

    When I picked up my long frame 48" plow, the rod from bottom of hand lever to plow rotation plate came as a piece of 1/2 " concrete reinforcing rod and they bent both ends as needed, ground off the diagonal bumps that help it grip the concrete so the bent end lengths are round and smooth and drilled for cotter pins both ends. Not sure on length between bends though as it is mounted. As long as the release pin is in locked position at the blade D rotation plate, the only pressure on the rod when plowing is while you are rotating the blade, usually while lifted so the re-bar is plenty stiff for the job. And cheap too for a 10 ft length. Might find one in scrap at a construction site where they are pouring reinforced concrete. How they lost the original round bar rod is beyond me. Why would you remove it for storage? Same goes for the handle. I never remove those, just release one end and swing them against frame and tie with a string until next season?? Wyatt
  14. toro snowthrower model 79360

    I run a 79360 with serial # in the 210000200 range. Pretty sure it is same for others but double check. If the chain is loose to the point of maximum adjustment on the bottom chain adjustment bolt slot or loose and rusty or binding at all, I would suggest you change it instead of having a spare on hand. A broken chain can do damage and wrap around the shaft binding the shaft and ripping the blower auger housing and stopping the auger immediately, which can also do damage. Search for photos of that on here. At TSC a 10 foot #40 Roller Chain is $20. It takes roughly 4.5 ft to make a new blower chain so $10 for peace of mind and not having to change it during a blizzard. I see I wrote on my last chain box, with another 5+ ft as a spare, that it took 51 Male Links, including the Male Master. Your new chain would end with dual female links on each end for the 51st male master link. No harm replacing that link too as it is about $3 for a pair of #40 master links at TSC. Actually the 10 ft box comes with 1 new master link included in the box. On here you can search for how to cut the chain by grinding one side of the pin that passes thru the male link you want to remove then by placing a 1/4 inch socket on the bench standing up and placing the pin centered on the socket opening and tapping the pin out downward thru the socket with a punch once the top end knob of the pin is flush with the female link. Simple enough. Then it will be quieter running the blower than a stretched chain and only takes less than an hour total, if you have a grinder and punch. Probably best to remove a functional stretched or binding chain and count the original links yourself for sure. For about $11 changing every few years is cheap enough. Also using a spray can of chain oil that dirt bikes or motorcycles or bikes use, so the oil doesn't fly off easily, will make it stay like new longer too. Just my 2 cents. And research on here also so you can see how to use the old chain to wrap a front tire around the center of the tread. Let air out, cut the chain w length to be snug in the center of the soft tire and add the masterlink. Then add air to make the linear tire chain tight as it expands. Chain running front to back, not across the tire like rear chains. Really helps steering on icy or packed snow. Good luck Wyatt
  15. Snowthrower modification

    Sorry I forgot to mention the above link also shows the forward lean to be 1" for every 4" in chute height. Doesn't seem like that much but when I made a few trial mockups it did turn out to be about that much forward lean. Perhaps a bit less will work too . I tried to duplicate the cover lean for the factory high chute. Wyatt
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