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About jrc0528

  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/28/1981

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    Wheelhorse 1055
    Kubota BX2350
    Fordson Major Diesel
  • favoritemodel

Profile Information

  • Location
    NE Ohio
  • Occupation
    Electrical Engineer (Automation)
  1. dip stick dysfunction

    Tommy, Try drilling a 3/16 or 1/4 hole through the side of the PEX just under the metal tube. This should allow the air to vent from the case back into the tube so you can fill normally.
  2. Transmission locked in 2 gears at once

    Hmm.. just finally read through this thread since my last post and got to thinking.... The whole purpose of the deeper neutral grooves and slightly longer interlocking pin are to ensure that one shifter rail cannot move if the other is in gear. Try this on a transmission with the old style rails; pull the shifter and using a screwdriver move one rail into gear, then try moving the other rail into gear. With all the grooves equal depth the second shifter SHOULD move normally into either gear even though the first rail is already in gear. With the newer rails and pin this will NOT be possible. The older pin ONLY prevented one from moving BOTH rails from NEUTRAL at the same time! The new pin prevents the second rail moving UNLESS the first is in neutral. Now here is a problem... this longer pin still DOES NOT fix the vacuum issue! The vacuum will suck the first rail back into gear immediately when the shifter ball moves to the second rail. At that instant the second rail is still in neutral, allowing the first rail to move into gear without the shifter. The addition of the flat is what corrected the vacuum issue. To those experiencing the vacuum sucking it into 2 gears I propose a (somewhat) simple fix (WARNING: TEARDOWN AHEAD!) You can easily modify your existing rails to relieve the vacuum issue after tearing down the transmission and removing the forks from the rails. Using a grinder or even better a belt sander, grind a flat on the backside of the rail (opposite the detente balls) and reassemble the transmission.
  3. Cleaning out transmission halves

    That appears to be the inside top of the case, those holes would be 2 of the upper chassis mounting bolts located under the seat.
  4. Cleaning out transmission halves

    My solution to that small press in cap was an EZ-Out bolt extractor. Just tap it in and twist 'er out! If you'd like something more substantial than a smear of silicone to seal it back up, tap it out to 5/16 just deep enough to run in a set screw.
  5. 312-8 Trans Noise

    If it were a differential bolt you should hear it once per revolution. This seems to be knocking many times per revolution, so I'm saying the bolt idea isn't it in this case. Given the knock frequency the mushroom gear or the intermediate cluster shaft are most likely. The input cluster and high/low gears are stationary in neutral, thus are not the culprit either. It appears that the brake drum is on the intermediate cluster shaft on that unit, the frequency sound about right for a one per rev knock from that shaft. Unbolt that drum and see if there's debris or a crack in it causing the knock. Perhaps try rolling it with the drum off and see if the knock is gone.
  6. Sand blast cabinet

    I modified my large Harbor Freight blasting cabinet years ago to work with my 20lb pressure blaster also from HF. I use Black Diamond and was tired of the slow progress. I have a 4hp 60gal tri-head single stage compressor that maintains a steady 80PSI for as long as I care to blast. I built a custom gun from a few pieces/fittings of black pipe and use the Type 1 Large tapered ceramic cone nozzles from TP Tools. For my setup the 3/32" nozzles with the fine grade Black Diamond works best. And yes, you'll need a very powerful dust collection/evacuation system to keep up with a pressure blaster operating within a cabinet!!! I'm currently using a 100 CFM fan vented directly outside. I screen my sand every other time I refill the tank, this dramatically reduces the amount of dust generated.
  7. Wheel horse transmission?

    Looks like they realized their mistake... the price is now $2,674.58.
  8. Pulling a Lawn Roller

    I have a 10hp 1055 3 speed that pulls my 800 lb roller around with ease. I like to go slower with the roller, so it's second gear and perhaps 1/4 throttle. The engine isn't even working hard, as seen watching the flapper bouncing atop my stack.
  9. 310-8 doesn't really move when put in gear

    The hub should be flush with the end of the axle. My money says that your problem is that key sticking out is no longer engaging the hub! That's a pretty dirty axle, is the seal leaking oil? Oil getting into the hub can cause it to loosen over time and then the hub slides on (or off!!) the axle. I'd pull the hub, clean up everything, if the key shows any damage replace it (I'd replace it no matter what personally), and reassemble.
  10. 310-8 doesn't really move when put in gear

    Do you have wheel weights installed? If not get someone to watch the axle inside both hubs while you sit on it and put it in gear and try to move. If either axle spins inside the hub replace the key. I've sheared a couples keys over the years, first one left me scratching my head, the second one took about 30 seconds to figure out!
  11. K181 RPM question

    Keep in mind that air cooling and splash lube rely on the engine RPMs to work correctly.
  12. Throttle lever slack take up

    That play, in particular the side-to-side play, is the symptom of the worn out bushings. IIRC, there may be a small felt washer where the shaft leaves the carb body. Regardless, try placing a drop of good thick oil (140wt gear lube should work, chainsaw bar&chain oil would be much better, or even a dab of grease smeared clear around the shaft) on the shaft where it exits the carb while the engine is idling. If you hear a response from the engine than you have an air leak significant enough to cause tuning trouble. This bushing wear is quite common on these K series engines. I'd suggest you have a look at this site as it has literally everything you'll ever need to know about these Carter carbs! http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/carbfuel.htm
  13. 520H Fuel Sensor Float (won't float)

    You could try removing the gas from your existing float and sealing it with the resin also. A relatively easy way to get the gas out of the float is to submerge it in hot (near boiling) water. Do this outside away from heat & flame, so don't use a hotplate/burner under the pot of water while doing this! As the gas heats up it will expand and turn to vapor; turning the float around underwater should eventually reveal a stream of bubbles showing the leak's location, once found turn the float so the leak is at the bottom. I've used this trick to empty flooded brass carb floats so they could be repaired.
  14. Throttle lever slack take up

    It may help if you take a video showing the operation of governor linkage to the carb during both the acceleration and deceleration. Sounds to me to be too lean at idle, causing it to stumble on throttle application. An audio analysis shows your idle speed is just a tad low at around 1000 RPM vs 1200, but that's close enough it shouldn't cause you any grief. The high speed is a bit harder to tell, but appears to be right around 3400RPM. I'd try slowly opening the idle mix screw and accelerating the motor perhaps an 1/8th turn at a time and see if it helps. A lean idle may also cause it to not come back down to idle straight away, although even my horse does this a bit. Another idea is to check your throttle shaft bushings in the carburetor. I know there's a few threads here somewhere on the topic; with age these bushings wear out and will allow the throttle shaft to have excessive play (is it loose if you grab the top end of the shaft and wiggle it?) and also allows air to enter the carb through this bore. The extra air admittance makes properly tuning the jets neigh impossible. If the wear isn't too excessive you can find rebuild kits to replace the bushings and get it working properly again.
  15. governor mods

    You have to start by understanding how the governor works in the first place. The K series (and many other small engines) use a gear with fly-weights and a spring. The faster the gear spins the more force the fly-weights exert, usually through a cam or pin. Pushing against this is a spring tensioned by the throttle lever. At low throttle the tension is less, high throttle tensions it more. The throttle plate of the carb is directly related to the position of the fly-weights, when they are pushed in by the spring the carb throttle opens, as they expand out the throttle closes. The skinny of all this is this: As the engine is loaded at a set speed, it will begin to slow down. When it slows the force of the flyweights acting against the governor spring lessens, causing the carb throttle to open. The system balances out when the speed drop opens the carb throttle enough to hold the load. The more load against the engine, the further the carb throttle must open. To open the carb further the fly-weights must exert more force against the spring. This all means that to fully open the carb throttle, the engine speed must drop by X from the user throttle setpoint. You MUST keep the same spring force (this determines max RPM) but you can play around with the spring rate (this determines the X rpms mentioned above to open the throttle to full). A stiller stiffer rate spring will move to full open throttle quicker than a weaker spring rate, but will also cause erratic and possibly unstable behavior. You wouldn't want a large change, only slight. I'd try using some fine tie-wire to band together a few coils of the factory spring, essentially stiffening it. You will have to readjust the RPM limiter link after this a bit, then load it up and your full-load RPMs should be a bit higher. Please note this is just the theory of it, I've never desired to actually do this as it'd be poorly suited for my daily worker!