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RJR49

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    110
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40 Excellent

About RJR49

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/23/1949

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    C-160
  • favoritemodel
    C160

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cheshire, Connecticut
  • Occupation
    Manufacturing
  1. Best model for parts availability

    I’ve had everything from a 1045 to a C-160 and I don’t think you can go wrong with a 160. It might be overkill for some folks but it’s better to have and not need, than to need and not have. I prefer the C-XX0’s over the C- XX1’s because the hydraulics are easier to service, and some of the internals are easier to access
  2. Just to let you know, you are not the only one who got a Chinese carb with the choke cable plate not phased correctly. I also cut off the tab and now have the choke reversed at the control. I will say it does run just fine with that carb though. Happy Holidays 

  3. Wheel Horse Servicing

    Snow White in Southington is a first class operation
  4. Differences between a C100 and a C160

    I'm not sure it matters but the K341 is taller so the drive pulley will be higher. I'm thinking that the belt guard will need massaging. Also, I seem to recall that the 10HP Kohler has a 1" crankshaft. If that's true the drive pulley won't fit.
  5. C160

    Awesome I’d be afraid to use it.
  6. Matt said it wouldn't work on a C Series but I bought one of his kits anyway. A couple of his parts, a few I made and I got it working. No modifications and a 20 minute install. It works great on my C-160, and I can't imagine it not working on a 1075 and everything in between. I don't use Matts reverse pedel very often as the lever is still there and raising your foot high enough to use his is awkward. Matt might want to pick up on this. If not I can put something together or provide drawings if anyone is interested
  7. Washing underside of mower deck

    Ditto's Lee1977. I try not to EVER mow wet grass
  8. I was mowing the yard and when I came around I found the cover to the mule drive laying in the yard. The nut and outer spacer were nowhere to be found. The local hardware store had the nut but, of course, no spacer P/N 101757. Since it has a different P/N than the inner I suspect they are different. If anyone knows what size it is I can make a new one. Otherwise I'll have to guess
  9. Jacking Point

    I put the jack under the hitch hinge pin. It rocks from there too
  10. 100 LL

    The local airport will sell me 100 octane low lead fuel. I know you can't use it in a road vehicle but I think it's legal off road. I've heard that 100 Octane is too much for small engines. Any thoughts?
  11. Probably fuel but?

    I had never given the terminals on the switch a lot of thought until I crossed them up and got the starter on the wrong terminal. Other than the S terminal they are all hot when the switch is in the on position. I suppose the switch from an old car would have an accessory terminal but if they are all hot when on it shouldn't make any difference.
  12. Probably fuel but?

    1975 C-160 Hydro. After all these years it started and ran fine but had a few broken bones. After a lot of welding the steering wheel is now straight, the steering gears no longer jump, and the original cam pin has replaced the " extended " pin I made because the original one wasn't long enough. Now it still starts and runs fine but randomly quits. At least nearly so because it always continues to run after nearly dieing. It always happens if I'm sideways on a hill with the left side down. Randomly when it's ideling. Going up a fairly steep hill when fuel demand is the highest it doesn't happen. I'm thinking it's the carb but it wasn't happening before I disassembled everything and I did have some electrical issues when I put everything back together. Doesn't seem likely that the problem is electrical but I have a clear plastic fuel filter so I can see gas flowing. Any thoughts? I should know know the answer to this but I'm wondering if it makes any difference which wires are connected to the terminals on the ignition switch as long as the starter is connected to the s terminal
  13. C-160 Hard Start

    Foot of snow here today. Hoped the horse would start but was pretty sure it wouldn't. It didn't! (Fortunately my Honda did but it was a lot more work.) I tuned the K341 in the fall (points, plug, condenser) but it seems to need some rpm to start. When it spins fast it fires before I can release the key (even before I did the tune). lately it turned over at a "moderately" fast pace but apparently not fast enough. Looking for advise. Is this typical? Then there's the subject of 10 vs 13 gears on the starter. Thirteen sounds awesome. 30% more RPM, but it puts 1/3 more draw on the motor. Then there's the question of fit. Are they interchangeable given the difference in the C/L distance between the motor shaft and the K341 flywheel gear? Any help would be appreciated. Randy
  14. Better Starter

    You might try using a jumper cable to bypass the solenoid. That would give you an idea if the problem is the motor or the wiring One more thought. Given that the 13 tooth starter must have the same pitch as the 10 tooth to engage the flywheel. The mount has to be different to be able to swap. Although I suppose you could probably shim the 13 tooth. Still one more. Given the same motor the 13 tooth will have to work 30% harder. That has to mean the motor will get pretty hot pretty fast. Only having pics to judge by they appear to be the same size motors any thoughts would be appreciated since I'm thinking of replacing the starter in my C-160. Given the price of OEM motors recommendations would be appreciated also
  15. Honda Horse

    One more thing. I neglected to mention that I am going to have to fab / modify a wrench to get one of the exhaust bolts tight because of interference with the vac. Honda makes a less robust OHC engine that I have on my snow blower and pressure washer. The exhaust would brobably have fit without modification if I had bought that engine I'll send a picture if your interested. Won't be until next week though
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