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doc724

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About doc724

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1978 C141-8
    1981 C125 Automatic
    1996 416-H
    1998 314-8
    2002 520xi
  • favoritemodel
    1978 C141-8

Profile Information

  • Location
    Massachusetts
  1. For the spindle housing that is worn down, someone forgot to put the spacer between the lower bearing inner race and the dust cap. You can assemble it this way but over time, the steel cup will wear the soft magnesium die casting and then the hole assembly will be loose. I had one exactly the same way. The spacer is about 5/16 inch high. Check your "boxes" I think the spacer is there in all three but on the right box, the spacer may have been assembled between the hex on the shaft and the steel cup. I also use only double sealed bearings and get rid of the zerk. Too easy to over fill with grease and then the outer seal will pop off
  2. Another Bolt removal issue

    I have the same problem on one of my K-series except that it has a metal fan screen. I have resigned myself to grinding off the screw heads and then drill and retap.
  3. Carb issues Onan 16

    My 416H does the same thing lately (surging after start). However, here in MA, it has been colder than normal so I just leave the choke on a bit and within 5 minutes all is good. Winter gas which evaporates faster than summer gas has not yet hit the stations yet (at least in premium which is all I run), so I am thinking that once winter gas is here, the problem will go away. I do not have the "almost stall" problem you mention. As 953 Nut said, I could have a vacuum leak which goes away once things warm up. If you have a real bad vacuum leak, you will know it. It will run like crap all the time. My neighbor has a JD 318 from the 80's and he finally fixed the leaky manifold.
  4. I must lead a charmed life. When I put in the hydro pedal kit in my 416H, I was able to get the steering wheel off without a problem. I tried all sorts of shenanigans to try to get the original motion control lever off without taking off the steering wheel and eventually I succumbed and with patience I succeeded. The only issue I had is the foot board antiskid on 1996 and later are thick and the cast reverse pedal travel is limited because of it. I had to grind a bit off the backside. Motion is still limited in reverse, but I enjoy it every time I take the machine out to play
  5. Maybe those 8 inch wheels explains why I can get a 4 inch cut on my Xi deck but barely make 3 inch on a traditional/classic deck. Nice job on the POR coating
  6. tiller seals

    Yes, there are two seals. On the inner seal, the lip faces in. On the outer seal, the lip faces out. If you pull an IPL, you can see the two seals and the info I just provided. The old ones will be a ***** to remove if you do not disassemble the unit as you cannot get behind the outer seal to remove it when the shaft is in the way (and the trick of drilling two small holes in the seal shell does not work well when the lip is facing out). BTW, get good SKF seals to reinstall. I know on some of the 3/4 transaxle shafts, Toro seals are plastic. Not good when your spouse leaves the brake engaged and drives the machine
  7. 12hp needs rebuild

    I too have a 12 HP-smokes like a chimney. Cost depends on whose parts go in. For Kohler, upwards of $800 is what I was quoted. There is a machine shop in Ohio, Kustom Lawn and Garden. A complete remanufactured short block for WH K301 is $729 with a block trade in. Have not decided to pull the trigger. I already have over $800 invested in restoration of a C125 and with 4 other nice machines in the stable, I may just have to cut my losses and sell it as is to someone who has engine rebuilding skills
  8. Plug Wire

    Stens 135-178, $14.70, Bought it for my C125
  9. replacement fuse holder

    You would think I would write down where I buy this stuff, but Nooo, that would be too easy. I used either Del City or Waytek Wire. Glen Petit, a RS Vendor, sells covers for the fuse blocks. Make sure you get the correct terminals so they lock into the fuse block holder (made that mistake once). If you can get tin plated terminals, get them, they last longer than unplated brass.
  10. Rock Shaft Removal

    I use Kroil as my solution for tough parts removal. Four assemblies fall into this "tough" category: Hubs, steering wheels, rear hitches and rock shafts. Spray the living snot out of the interface. Repeat for 4 days and then try tapping it apart. If this does not work, hit it with a torch, but not red hot and let the Kroil wick in as the materials expand. Be careful, Kroil is flammable. BTW, do not try the torch idea on a steering wheel Yes, Kroil is expensive, about 3x of PB Blaster but well worth it. Haven't trashed a steering wheel yet and I have taken 5 of them off without disassembling the tractor. Hard to find. Order from the factory, they run a special once a year, two 12 oz (I think) cans for $19.99
  11. 314-8 PTO Killing Engine

    I cannot tell you about the no reverse switch on the 1999 machines, mine is a 1998. However, on my 2002 5xi, (with electric PTO) there is a switch under the seat that you must turn to keep the PTO engaged in reverse. You have to be on the seat to engage it and if you get off, it will shut everything down. It is a must have if you are snowblowing.
  12. can't pull front wheel off!

    I am hard to believe that your wheel bearings are not standard sized. WH has been using these standards as far back as the late 1970's (which is when I bought my first WH). The wheel bearings do have a flange on one side to keep you from pressing them in too far. See the pix posted by WHX12 in this thread on Sep 21. As long as you have 3/4 axles and 1.375 in wheels, the standards should work just fine
  13. Getting Snowblower Prepped

    One other part to get is a spare spring that goes on the side of the blower and keeps the tension on the belt. If it breaks, you are dead in the (frozen) water. I agree with Squonk, spare parts have legs. I have a box for ALL spare parts. That way I have only one "go to" place. Of course that does not help when I forget to put the spare parts in the spare part box!
  14. One last thing I thought of. Carefully pull off the foot treads and clean off all the junk under them. If you are lucky, there will not be any rust lurking there. If you break off the plastic fasteners, most autoparts stores have them
  15. Ignition switch connectors.

    I have used Waytek wire and Del City. Both are good but minimum order qty makes them unattractive to me. But then again, some of you have bigger herds to maintain
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