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About doc724

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Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1978 C141-8
    1998 314-8
  • favoritemodel
    1978 C141-8

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  1. My three favorites are WD40, Simple Green-straight, and if I am disassembling something, Purple Power. I wash the machine afterwards with Dawn and finish with a low pressure spray (like you would water your plants) or a mist.
  2. Cause of transmission failure

    My very limited experience is that needle bearings seem to be the weak points. Seal failure happens first. Fluid leaks out and dirt gets in. Not a good combination. Water incursion is almost always at the shift boot. They do not last forever and most are rotted out after 15-20 years
  3. Time to fix the brake

    You do not need to remove the lever. Adjustment of the parking brake is done from under the tunnel plate (what Jim called the control plate). Adjustment of the actual brake (like when you want to stop the tractor when it is moving) is done from behind the left rear wheel, also as pointed out by Jim. If you do not have one, I strongly recommend you download an owners manual from the Toro site or here. It will tell you how to do these common maintenance items
  4. If the fuse box is directly behind the rear cylinder, the terminals in them are toast. Heat causes them to relax over time and will open circuit. Also, since they are unplated brass they are prone to corrosion Grass gets inside and then if it gets wet, you have a nice source for corrosion. Terminal blocks and terminals are available from Waytek Wire or Del City. Buy a good crimping too as well. Glen Petit sells the covers for the terminal blocks.
  5. Picking up two today

    Definitely Eaton 1100. Had one just like it. 1981 was earliest year for the Eaton. ID tag (if there is one) is on the lower dash plate
  6. Tiller drive belt and idlers

    I think the belt length is 140.5 or 141.5. Buy a WH belt. you can get the P/N from the IPL which I am sure is available in the manuals section. Idler bearings are not replaceable. You can buy new idlers from a variety of on line retailers, Jacks Small Engine or Mowpart to name two. Again, download the IPL for the tiller and you will be all set.
  7. Front tire replacement.

    The easiest way is to go to Harbor Freight where you can buy a small tire changer for under $40. There is a learning curve to using it but once you have it mastered, there is no better way. Indispensable if you have horses. If you do not want to spend the $40, make a semi circle out of wood to match the tire rim diameter. Put it onto the tire and then drive over the wood with your car. That will break the bead. You still need to get the old tire off and you will need tire spoons for that. My advise, spend the $40
  8. Dave, here is how I did my 5xi. Jack up the tractor so both wheels are off the ground. With the selector in neutral, start the tractor and let it warm up. Once warm, there should be no movement of the wheels, either forward or backward. Loosen the hex bolt that goes thru the bigger hex cam. Turn the cam one way or another until the wheels stop moving. Tighten down the hex bolt. What you are doing is adjusting neutral creep. When neutral creep is zero, the forward and reverse speed should be at factory spec. My 5xi would only do 5-5.5 in forward. After I set neutral creep, it was back to 7.5, factory spec. How do I know? I went for a ride on the tractor, holding with my bicycle garmin in my hand.
  9. The end of the road

    Thx, I will check into it. I have seen one one or two custom carts with big block motors (Briggs Vanguard Twins seem to be popular) that have real clutches so the motor does not shutdown when you take your foot off the accelerator. Ufortunately, golf carts are just not engineered to behave like cars so flipping them on turns and stopping them can be a challenge. Most carts are governed to 20 mph, but owners sometimes bugger the governor to eek out a bit more speed. When I follow a cart on my bicycle, I can tell who is "illegal" since I can cycle at 21-22 mph and if they out run me, they are cheating.
  10. I have not looked, but somewhere on RS, I do remember someone finding them and making an adapter so they could mount behind the st'd WH bezels
  11. The end of the road

    After 39 years of Wheelhorse ownership, I am now horseless. My last and favorite tractor, the 1978 C141, will leave today for a new home. I hated to do it but we will be moving to a retirement community where there is no room and no need for these fine tractors. The shed that my 5 horses and a myriad of attachments called home is empty and hollow. Only a few oil stains on the wood floor are there to remind me of the time I spent on them, restoring, cleaning and repairing them. Over the last 7 years years, this forum has been a great source of helpful information. I have "met" several wonderful people in this virtual world who have helped me thru many problems, John Matthews (shallowwatersailor), Forest Road, Jerseyhawg (Glen) and of course Garry who always seems to have his finger on his keyboard, ready to respond with the needed manual pages. Special thanks to Glen Petit and Terry (Vinlyguy) who provided parts to add the finishing touch to make my restorations true to the originals and to Bob Maynard who was the source for replacement Molex connectors to keep my 416H electrical system in top condition. As I move on, I guess I will have to get a golf cart (although I do not golf) to have something to tinker with. I am sure there is an owners group for golf carts lurking out there, but I have yet to find it. It will be a difficult task to find an owners forum as helpful as Red Square. Cheers to all.
  12. I had a similar problem with the tail lights on my 1998 314-8. The tail lights sockets are crap. any moisture gets in there and they corrode. You can buy LED tail light assemblies for about $5 at superbriteleds.com. Look for M9x4 part number. They are a drop in replacement. Just remember that LED's are diodes and +12V has to be applied on the correct wire. Also, you will have to ground the other wire to the seat pan using a star washer to bite thru the paint
  13. Also, your mid idler spring needs to be attached to something to keep tension on the belt
  14. Davoman has one suggestion. Personally, I have not seen a misaligned rear hitch but I suppose it could happen. As Dave suggested, another possibility is that the idler on the tiller itself is not parallel to the belt line. A little bit off here means the belt is a lot off at the mid idler. Get a 10 or 12 inch adjustable wrench and tweak the bracket that holds the tiller idler opposite the direction that the belt jumps off. The steel is not hardened here so you can bend it pretty easily. Take your time, be patient and you can dial it in pretty good.
  15. 308-8 42” deck

    Either the deck is not on correctly (where it attaches to the mid hitch), a broken baffle weld on the underside, or something is bent. Pix will help us diagnose but you have to be a paying member of the forum to post pix