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onisius

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About onisius

  • Rank
    Newbie

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1974 C-100 8-speed
  • favoritemodel
    C-100

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Jersey
  • Occupation
    Lab Tech

Recent Profile Visitors

340 profile views
  1. 1974 C-100 Electrical Meltdown

    IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIVE! I hope I'm in the right place to reply to all those members that have helped me with the C-100 Meltdown issue. Replaced regulator yesterday, repaired stator wire connections and orange wire conn on reg. Replaced ignition switch because I have had an nos oem switch for 25 yrs so why not? Hope throwing extra part at problem doesn't make me a shade tree mechanic of questionable talent. The orange wire at the reg was rock hard and burnt. The regulator showed an internal blow out as I saw a blob of solder coming from the end of a resistor and coming up thru the epoxy coated or whatever it is encasing the electronics. I also added a ground wire from the regulator housing to the chassis ground point for the battery. It started right up and I had 14.4 v at the battery. I did notice during all this that the needle on my ammeter had broken off. Brittle after 43 yrs or blown at meltdown don't know. Didn't notice until doing repair. If anyone knows where to get a replacement at a decent price it would be appreciated. In any event thank you all for your help without which I could not have done this. I hope I did not cause too much dissention among members as this was not my intention. I hope I can return with more stupid newbie questions about voltage checking so I can affirm that I repaired everything that needed attention. Onisius
  2. While mowing engine begins to slow and stall. Increase gas then puff of smoke comes up from under rectifier. Dead. Find three prong plug to rectifier melted in two places. One white stator wire and orange wire below it burnt and melted connector. Stator wires do not check as shorted to ground. Continuity check across reads 0.2 ohms. This is with cheap digital meter so don't know how reliable. No prior problems with battery charging or anything else. Really baffled at this. Have kept this machine going for 33 years now and have to decide if it's time to shoot the Horse and buy a Deere. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate any help. If anyone knows where to get rectifier part #101450 or stator for C-100 please let me know. These parts I'm sure are pricy if available at all. Need to decide if it is worth keeping up the fight. Thank you fellow members for any information you can forward. Onisius
  3. I thank you all for your informative replies. It would appear by the diagrams supplied by grounghog47 that I have the cast bearing housing shown in fig #2. No snap-ring no grease fittings just plain Jane assembly. I will move forward with all the good advice. This is truly a Forty Year Old Virgin so wish me luck. I would still like to know the safest way to install new spindle bearing as bearings seem to be a tight fit especially without any snap-rings to keep in place. Finally, if I should fail and end up damaging the cast bearing housing does anyone know where I might get one? I hope this reply gets back to all of you as I am using the multi-quote function assuming it goes out to all that answered. I'm new at this so please bear with me.
  4. I have a 1974 C-100 with a 36" mower deck ( 05-36MR05-78305). I need to replace the spindle bearing (103119) on the center pulley assembly. I have disassembled down to the bearing housing(105074) and spindle bearing. What is best and safest way to remove spindle bearing from housing as bearing housing is no longer available on this planet? It has been saturated with PB Blaster for days as a hopeful precaution. Is there a C-clip or snap-ring on this unit that I am unaware of? Can I hammer tap it out, do I use heat? And after successful removal what is best way to install new spindle bearing? Can I do this or does it need a machine shop with a press to be done properly? Thank you for any experienced help anyone can supply on this matter. I have been given expert advice in the past from this forum and respect the members. Onisius
  5. Thank you all, I appreciate all of your input to my inquiry. I was wary of maritimedragracing.com after reading Brian Miller website,but had to ask. It seems plastic replacement is way to go much as my instinct says no. Sorry if I offended anyone with my rant on Kohler OEM but on the advice of a fellow member I recently purchased a starter solenoid from Del-City for my 1974 C-100 which was an EXACT replacement at less than 3 1/2 times the price of Toro/Kohler OEM cost! I support capitalism, but this I find to be piracy. A sincere mea culpa to those I may have offended. I love this site and am proud to be a member. Onisius
  6. Does anyone know if a legitimate rebuild kit for a Kohler 10 hp metal fuel pump exists? Some say obsolete, some say it is out there.If so ,where? If not,where is a reliable and fairly priced replacement pump available? Kohler price for replacement pump is beyond belief. Company should be drawn and quartered for raping loyal customers.
  7. 1974 C-100 solenoid problems

    SOI, Thanks so very much for your prompt and as always informative response.
  8. 1974 C-100 solenoid problems

    SOI, Thank you for your reply. In your first 2 diagrams you show the battery + cable attached to the left side of the starter solenoid and in the last one you show it attached to the right side of solenoid and starter motor to the left. Does this make a difference as to operating properly or not? I realize from my C-100 wiring diagram that a red wire has to run from the + side of the battery connection to the solenoid to the positive of ammeter and light green from negative to B on switch. My last question for now is if ammeter is bad can I jump the red and green wires at ammeter and still run? Thank you so much again, Onisius
  9. Hi, Have 74 C-100 with starter solenoid not clicking. If I jump 2 large terminals starter turns over strong but no engine start. Ignition turned to first position not start position. Solenoid used to click before after a few tries now not at all. Do I have to jump solenoid + battery terminal to trigger? What position does key need to be in? When solenoid terminals jumped and engine turns with safety interlocks engaged, why won't it run? Is there any way to jumper or bypass to to get engine to run? Thanks for any help, Onisius
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