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coldone

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About coldone

  • Rank
    Disfunctional 'D' family member
  • Birthday 06/17/1972

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  • Military Member
    Army
  • Location
    Central NC
  1. D Series Hydro motor

    Found this from D series days. I think it is the first one that I "refreshed". I checked the valve plate and it has been lapped so it should be ok for use. It has some rust showing on the outside, I did not break it down and check the pistons. No Guarantees. Looking to get $75+ shipping. I dont visit here often anymore so you may have to email me.
  2. D-160 repower,what do you think?

    Holy S%$# that is a sweet repower. It looks like it fit pretty good too. How did you couple it to the hydro pump?
  3. Sundstrand Challenge(s)

    I would think that one of the Metal filled epoxies could be used to reduce the rotational slop. I toyed with the idea of cleaning the coupling and filling the grooves with the epoxy. Spray the pump shaft with release agent and push the two together. That should fill up any voids and provide a solid mating surface. There should be a lot of surface area to spread the load also. I would not use grease. To me,this would defeat the purpose of the splines and reduce friction. IMO, it would make it more likely to strip the splines on the shaft.
  4. Sundstrand Challenge(s)

    Sorry for the loss of your Dad. Nice thread and I am happy to see that my suspicion of using a C series hydro unit to replace a D series is correct.Taking the pump off the D is always interesting. I think the last time that i did that it only took me about an hour. I already had all the tools in one bucket.
  5. Andy, I dont think the 680 is actually to "glue" the two surfaces together. I think its going to act as a filler to help spread the forces equally on all surfaces. This will be to make for the minor misalignment of shaft and coupler. I think it will also help cushion the splines on sudden force changes. I just dont see 680 holding both pieces together with that much vibration for very long although there is a lot of surface area so I may be totally wrong. Either way its not going to hurt.
  6. Project bendy 4x4 gets a locking diff

    Very nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  7. On a D series Pressure test

    I removed the temp sensor and used that port. The temp sensor and the top port are two different fitting sizes.
  8. D series Hydraulic junction box

    Its a buffer valve. Its to help releve some of the stress on the transaxle with quick direction changes.
  9. PTO D-200

    here is a link to the neapco pdf on the drive shaft components. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CFEQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neapco.com%2FnA-aftermarket-catalogs.php%3Fpdffile%3D5&ei=GEKJU8DuJ8bQsQShhYDIAw&usg=AFQjCNFJeQXv88X3YclE4gVW0TDazUgwHQ&sig2=538VJnIj-b-82FuHpjmOYA&bvm=bv.67720277,d.cWc At least I hope it shows up that way. If not Google "neapco yoke specs". That should give you an idea of what you need to build the other half.
  10. I have spare pulley if you need it.
  11. D160 mower deck lift link

    The parts are still available from toro. Cant remember the numbers but I had to buy the link and trunion last year for mine.
  12. You can call Richards lawn and garden in WV. He can probably tell you from memory.
  13. D200 ID Tag and trans line questions!!

    Sorry, just seen too many folks use 15% and MAPP torches trying to braze steel together. No offense was intended.
  14. D200 ID Tag and trans line questions!!

    If you are going to silver braze it you will need at least 45% silver braze and flux. You will have to use an oxy/fuel setup to get the heat high enough to burn off the contaminates.
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