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cheesegrader last won the day on October 9 2015

cheesegrader had the most liked content!

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About cheesegrader

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/09/1962

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    '96 50th Anniversary 520H with Kwik-Way Loader
    '95 520H
    '94 520H
    '91 520H
    Cozy Cab
    WH Soft-side cab
    Two 2-stage blowers
    Sweepster 4800 power broom
    60" Decks
    48" Decks
    42" Deck
    48" Front Blade
    50" Grader Blade
    Two 36" Tillers
    36" Box Blade
    48" Roller
    10" single bottom plow
    Spring tine
    10kw Generator
    and LOTS more...
  • favoritemodel
    520H of course!

Profile Information

  • Military Member
  • Location
    Watersmeet, Michigan

Recent Profile Visitors

1,509 profile views
  1. Best Wheel Horse snow machines?

    The sweeper is great if there is no wind. That is rare here in the winter. It is great for getting the leaves and small sticks in the fall. The loader is vital to deal with the deep drifts, and when snow sheds off the barn roof. Those piles are really heavy, and nothing else can move them. The plow gets about 200 lbs of weight on the rear wheels, and 60 lbs on the front. It could use suitcase weights on the front. Steeering in heavy, wet snow is a problem. The thrower cab weighs 400 lbs, so I don't need any extra weights. The rear cylinder vents onto my right foot, so I have never needed extra venting for heat. I have to leave the rear window open most of the season to COOL the cab. It has a wiper, LED lights, a defrost fan, and a linear actuator to control the deflector chute. I would like to motorize the rotation as well, but for now I still use the old crank. The heavy spring between the tractor frame and the thrower frame is essential let the thrower "float", which really helps steering. Front Tri-rib tires also really help steering the beast. I may get a set for the plow tractor next year. All get 2-link v-bar chains, put on as tight as possible. The rear ags on the loader get diamond pattern v-bar chains, rimguard filling, and 110 lbs each of steel weights. The tension block on the thrower has been replaced with an Idler pulley, and I would like to replace the thrust bearings on the augers with sealed bearings. The tractors are '91, '93, '95, and '96 520's. I like 520's. I can't imagine using anything smaller. In case of emergency, I use a Ford 7000, but the 84" bucket is too wide to work around structures, and the cab is 9' tall, and catches on branches. Go ahead. Snow.
  2. Best Wheel Horse snow machines?

    I get 10 feet of snow. This is what I do:
  3. 1993 520h

    Odd that it cuts off at the same time. I wonder if something is heating up and shorting out. The fuse block has been a sore spot for me. If the wires are burnt, cleaning the block won't help. I have replace the fuse block with sealed individual fuse holders on most of mine, and this has solved a lot of problems. If everything goes out, including dash lights, I'm thinking fuse block, keyswitch or battery connections. I have been fortunate to have NO 9-pin connector issues yet, but it is also a common weak point. I have also had issues with relay switches. My best tractor now has a sealed set of relays, moved into the battery compartment and away from snow and slush that I threw onto them plowing
  4. Picked this up a few weeks ago.

    Ooooh, that's nice! How did you get it before me? Looks garage kept. Love the foot pedal. Don't know about that fuel filter, though.
  5. 44" snowblower

    It is a huge beast. 300+ pounds. Most people use at least 16 HP to run it. Balance and traction are tricky. You need a fair amount of weight on the rear to keep the wheels from spinning. It also causes problems steering. Be sure to use the lift assist spring to give yourself some "float", or you will have no hope of steering in heavy snow. I run mine on a 520 with a 400lb steel cab, 2-link v-bar rear chains, and tri-rib fronts. Magic when moving snows of 18" or less, but even that setup can be beaten by tall drifts or ice sheds off the barn roof.
  6. Leaking 520H hydraulic actuator valve

    I had one go bad a few years ago, and bought an entire used actuator for less than I could rebuild the old one. I have not had any problems with leaks since the swap.
  7. scraper blade 312 8

    Those 50" grader blades are really nice. I looked locally for two years. I was lucky enough to get one from southern Wisconsin. They don't come up for sale often. If you break it down, I bet it would ship for a reasonable price.
  8. Weight on the front of the horse

    I agree with Jim, that moving the hitch closer to the rear axle of the tractor would reduce leverage of a loaded trailer. Lower or farther forward, or both. Just closer to the axle. Moving the trailer wheels forward would help, too. That might make moving an empty trailer clumsy, with the tongue up in the air. You will only get about 50 lbs of weight on the front wheels, and they are pricey. Loading the wheels won't add much more, since volume is so low. Easiest solution is probably adding weight to the front. Why do you think those brackets would suffer if you add weight?
  9. Lets talk rear grader blades

    I use a brinley box blade for to clear debris from ditches, and for the final pass on my gravel drives. Weighs about 70 lbs, and I usually add another 50 to level the gravel. Mine is on the back of a 520 with a clevis hitch, and it is no problem. Your blade is much sturdier, and could probably do the work without added weight. Be careful to check cable routing. I have seen some reports of lift cables digging into transmission housings.
  10. New Member from Westerwald/Germany

    Guten Tag, Peter! My wife went to High School in Giesen, and I spent a few years at Landstuhl and Ramstein. Lots of Americans spend time at the big miitary bases in Rheinland Pfalz. I wonder if one of them hauled that C-120 over in their household goods? C-120's are solid, durable and reliable tractors. Well worth the effort to rebuild. Good Luck.
  11. Main 30 amp fuse blowing

    Wet grass gets into the bottom of the fuse block, and can cause shorts. I have had to remove the block from most of my 520's, and replace it with three sealed, individual fuse holders. This has solved almost all of my electrical problems on those machines.
  12. Mower Deck

    The first thing that comes to mind is vibration. Does it spin well? Are the bearings bad? Is everything tight, or is there some slop? (up and down as well as side to side) Is the pulley bent? Is the blade balanced? Is it on upside down? (been there, done that) Is the spindle housing fixed solidly to the shell (I've had missing bolts, and cracks through mounting holes)? Pictures?
  13. My 60 mower messed the bed

    I think 109799 is the serial number of that individual deck, not the model number (my serial number is only 5 digits, 10098) The model number that you need to hunt for parts should have a "60" in it somewhere. 05-60SC01, 05-60SC02.....something like that depending on the year it was made
  14. My 60 mower messed the bed

    You are a better man than I am if you got that apart without a torch or explosives. I have a 05-60SC01 (1983 60") off a C195 now on a 520. Toro dealer was useless when looking for parts for a 33 year old deck. I got a second 60" deck for less than the cost of parts for one spindle.
  15. Does this 520H look like a good deal?

    coil and igition module are about $100 each. The original coil is no longer available, but replacements only require changing the mounting bracket. Ignition switch is $15, Voltage regulator is $20. The whole wiring harness is about $35 used, but you can probably fix what you have for a few dollars, and a few hours. New fuse holders are a few bucks, relays about $10. 9-pin connector is also a cheap fix. I wouldn't offer much for it. You might uncover other problems once you get spark. Looks a little rough. You will spend a lot more if the rear cylinder or Hydro pump are bad.