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About BillM2

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    upstate NY
  1. Electric Clutch

    Mystery Solved! I went through every wire, connection and ground on my WH. I then decided I would cut away the plastic connector that connects the electric clutch with the wiring on the tractor. And, it works fine! The connector and the wires showed no signs of wear or tear and power was coming from the tractor to the connector. I've spliced the wires together and it's running great. Many thanks all especially TT for his help with this puzzle. :banghead:
  2. Electric Clutch

    Still working on that electric clutch. Today when I wanted to hook-up my trickle charger to my battery, with the power off to the tricklet charger, I noticed a slight spark when attaching the clips. I've never seen that before -- usually when attaching to the battery while in the mower, I would see no spark, but today yes. Would that indicate something? If so what? I've gone to all the ground points on the tractor and the bolts all seem tight. :banghead:
  3. Electric Clutch

    Here's something new. This morning I took TWO wires, one from the battery postive and one from the negative sides and connected to the clutch wires and the clutch moved back and forth. It didn't engage or spin, but moved with each touch. What do you think that could mean...? B)
  4. Electric Clutch

    TT -- I removed the belt and with the engine running and power to the clutch, tried spinning it and nothing happened. Seems strange to me that it could be working just fine, then shut down. I also checked the wires and there appears no break in them. If you have a parts list for changing over from an electric to manual that would be greatly appreciated. Let me know what you have and we'll work out something. How difficult task is it to remove the clutch from the engine. There's a center bolt -- do you simply remove that and proceed with adding the parts? Thanks very much for your input!
  5. Electric Clutch

    I connected a wire from the postive terminal on the battery to the leads to the clutch and hear nothing. The engine was off. Is the electric clutch bad? With me getting 15 volts to the lines to the clutch, could that have done something. According to my multimeter, it's showing that level of voltage. I'm not all that skilled at these things, so what could be putting more voltage to the clutch? Also, how difficult is it to change from an electric clutch to a manual? What do I need? Again here are the details on my WH: WH Model # 10430 8 1973 C Series Kohler model engine K321S spec 60137d serial # 4209306 engine built in 1972 Thanks!
  6. Electric Clutch

    I'm back with the electric clutch problem. I tested the voltage to the clutch with t he engine running and it came to 15 volts. I've made sure the connections at the toggle switch are tight and they seem to be. I've also checked to see if the ignition switch, which you also need to turn to the middle to engage the clutch, is tight and they too seem OK. I've checked the ground wires and they too seem to be well connected. I was mowing when I went over a large bump and the mower stopped working. This is driving me a little crazy.... B)
  7. Electric Clutch

    Yes, the tractor was running when my multi-voltmeter read around 15 volts.
  8. Electric Clutch

    I'm the guy with the electric clutch problem. I tested the volted on the battery (12.8 volts) then tested the current to the clutch (around 15 volts?). I reconnected the wires and the clutch engaged and seems to be working fine. Thanks for your input but wondering if the voltage is too high as the problem? Maybe I wasn't getting an accurate reading, but that's what my multi-meter read. Bill
  9. Electric Clutch

    I have a 1973, 14hp model 10430 WH with an electric clutch that has stopped working. It worked fine last week. I've checked all the connections and they seem to be OK. How can I test to see what the problem is (if there's power going to it for example) and if I need to replace, how difficult a job is it? Many thanks for your input. B)