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About cpete1

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Wheel Horse Information

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    Averill Park, NY
  1. Beating the bushes

    Did you give your girlfriend a "commission" for your find? Sorry, had to ask...LOL
  2. Where can I get an operators manual for the mower deck. I have a 416 8sp Toro Wheelhorse and an older 10 Hp. The numbers on the decks aren't readable. Would like a better understanding of how the different adjustements on the deck work. Chris
  3. Another back-firing Kohler situation

    Well, I finally got into the engine and found a couple of issues. I took the head off the cyl in question and found grease and dirt had accumulated on the front edge of the fins of the head, which could in theory block the air from the cooling fan in the engine from passing thru the fins. I sprayed deep creep sea-foam around the exhaust valve stem, also checked the other side under the inspection plate. The valve seemed free enough and could turn easily. The last issue was the fuel filter. I think it was too small to begin with and had quite a bit of crap inside so I changed that out. Also set the timing back as I had little success with a timing lite trying to set it. The engine runs much better now and for the time being, the back-firing has stopped. I also de-carboned everything I could when the head was off. I think that was the main culprit. Extra heat would ignite the mixture. The problem mostly occurred under heavy usage so I think it was a heat "thing". Anyways, thank you guys (and gals) for the help from the site. Great bunch of people, glad to be a part of it. Chris
  4. Another back-firing Kohler situation

    Thanks for the input guys. I haven't had a chance to look things over again but the suggestions make sense. A little extra load creates some additional heat which tightens up where ever the bind is. An exhaust valve would still allow combustion but less pressure. Its always the same side so I'm inclined to believe we're onto something here. Man this is a great site. Thank you again, I'll report back with what I find. Chris
  5. I have a strange situation with a twin cyl Kohler. Engine runs fine but then suddenly starts to misfire. One cylinder loses power but there is still significant heat and pressure coming out that side's exhaust. It may run like that for a minute but then suddenly regain power and run smooth. I've, to date, disassembled carb and cleaned. switched wires on the twin coil, (no change), switched spark plugs, (no change). Blown out the fuel lines, Re-timed the engine. There is no significant smoke like one would expect, black for unburnt gas or oil. The lastest idea I have is that the coil is getting weak but switching the spark plug wires doesn't change the side that is mis-firing. This one has me stumped. I haven't given up yet but its got me be-fuddled. Color of plugs looks good. It some times back-fires when starting. I might not have the timing perfect but when it runs ok which is 80% of the time, its running quite smooth. The issue tends to happen under a little load but nothing substancial. Anybody have a guess?? Glad the snow finally left.. Chris
  6. Fabricated Tie Rods

    Really nice work, but why the "divets" in the ends. Was that before you welded the bolts ? Just curious not meaning to downgrade anything, looks like a great idea. Thanks Chris
  7. a guid to body repair

    Looking forward to the infomation. You guys are a great resource. Everything helps. Chris
  8. My new (used) 1988 414-8

    Ya got a great deal, but what I'm more concerned about is the fact that you have become infected with the disease. Wheelhorse fever. I see you're a recent member and now you have a second machine...there is no hope for you. The gentleman who is offering to take the machine from you is only looking out for your well being. Good luck with your purchase but I only hope its not too late for medical intervention. Enjoy your new toy. Chris
  9. Fuel pump on 416-8spd

    I received the new pump today. It has the same configuration as the original but is a tad shorter. It bolted on ok and I started the tractor, seemed to run fine but I'll know for sure next snow storm. Thanks for the input. Chris
  10. Fuel pump on 416-8spd

    Napa sells an electric pump that doesn't make too much pressure. I read somewhere else that some of the Puller guys use it. Terry, thats what I was going to do but I found an OEM pump not as expensive as the Toro model. We'll see when it arrives. The fix I did is holding up but don't want to chance it. Thanks for the input. Seems like everything I'm dealing with right now is "out-dated", starting to make me feel old. Chris
  11. Fuel pump on 416-8spd

    Wow, not much action on this question. I took the pump off and used rtv silicone to fasten the metal plunger back onto the diaphram. Made a big difference but also ordered another one from an onan distributer. Prices range from 154 (ouch) toro to 56 + shipping. Will report back as to how things work out. The next thought was to replace the pump with another diaphram thats more comman or go with a small electric one that napa sells. IF ANYBODY HAS TRIED THIS, CHIME IN> Thanks R for the reply. Chris
  12. Fuel pump on 416-8spd

    Been running fine all winter, went to move my tractor and it cut out. Blew the gas line out, disaasembled the nikki fuel pump, looked things over and reassembled. I used some ether and the tractor started and ran fine. I tried turning the engine over with the fuel line off after the pump. Fuel flowed but nothing to brag about. Also, the metal plate on the diaphram was loose, not fastened to the diaphram in the center. Need a lesson in fuel pump design and function. Chris
  13. Moving some dirt.

    Rig up a chain from the top mounts of the springs back down to your frame. Or replace the springs with some sort of steel strap or bar. If you're going slow enough, you'll know when you've pushed too much soil. Good Luck Chris
  14. Bone to pick

    :thumbs: I've been to 17 doctors in the last 3 months,(about when I joined this forum). There is no hope. Once you're infected, its all over. Good Luck with your new disease..um I mean tractor. Chris
  15. Engine diagnostic.

    Tecumsehs are sensitive to "varnish" in the carb. Not sure about the type of carb you have but I have had issues with 3 tecumseh engines. You might end up taking the carburater off, dismantling it and cleaning it. Places to check will be the Fuel bowl where your main screw is in the bottom and a tiny and I mean tiny hole in the main throat of the carb. You have to take a small wire like 1 strand from a typical piece of wiring you find on a car or tractor for that matter and snake it into the tiny holes in the throat of the carb(use small needle nose pliers) . Spray carb cleaner won't cut it out at first. Once you run the wire in and out, then douch the openings with carb cleaner. Once the passages are open things should smooth out. Its a pain but it will make all the difference in the world. Typical symptoms are, If the choke is all the way off, the engine will surge... Erratic speed of idle. Good Luck, hope it helps Chris PS First, just try taking the fuel bowl off and cleaning it. The float assembly kinda just sits in there but if you're careful and go slow, you shouldn't have a problem with dismantling it and re-assembly. Sounds like your engine idles fine so it might just be varnish and crap in the fuel bowl and the main jet where your main screw goes in.